rb25crazy

hey guys i was wondering how you guys did this. i have a 4 gauge wire and it's nearly impossible for me to crimp a head on it so. i decided to get these and i was wondering what would i do with the "red head" that leads to the fuse box. would it have any adverse effect if i just cut the heads off and just run the wire directly into these audiopipe terminals? or does the fusebox require that i keep that red thing and what not. also, how did you guys run your wiring also to get no electrical noise, you went up to the intake manifold and then hard right once you hit the firewall to the exhaust manifold and drilled a hole in there? or did you guys just run the wire north of the battery and drilled a hole there? also, i'm planning on wiring up my amp under my passenger seat to keep stuff stealth. i'd like some input from you gurus before i cut up my shit and regret it.

thanks!

mjjstang

get proper crimps and add it to the glob of power connectors on positive. Home depot carries them and the good klein crimp tool. those red inputs are there for a reason, i think they call that the super multi junction port or some crazy name. Just dont run the audio output wires near other power wires and you should be good. I ran under my pass seat and just ran it through the center console.

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rb25crazy

oh, yeah also what kind of a head did you use to crimp the head too? b/c the head i want to crimp wont even fit inbetween the battery clamp cable. so there is no way it can get power even if i get it crimped that's why i got that audiopipe thing. maybe i'm not lookin' in the right place =D help please.

projectRDM

The red port is just a plug, you can cut it off if needed without ill effect. The SMJ is found inside and has nothing to do with the battery terminals.

However, I would open the fusebox and bolt the amplifier lead inside to the input side of the 100A main fusible link, looks better, cleaner, and it still fused. Then run the lead out the fusebox, behind the battery through the hole in the apron where the sidemarker light leads drops, up the fenderwell along side the washer hose, then into the car through the OE hole behind the fender liner where the OE washer hose runs for the rear on UK spec cars. Super clean install with minimal work instead of running a big ass wire through the engine bay.

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rb25crazy

so, i can just hook up a power cable to the 100a fuse input side, and run that into my amp and that's it? i don't need any other additional wiring? like an extra ground or anything?



so where i circled is where i'd put my new wire? is it ok to just put another terminal on the terminal already present there? i wouldn't need another additional fuse like the one that came with my amplifier kit. i know these are probably dumb questions. but, wouldn't adding an 800watt amp to that already 100a fuse maybe over load it? or burn it or something.

or should i just add the fuse onto terminal with the power wire that i want to run through that same 100a fuse input place. and then just add the fuse on the new power wire i add?

thanks !

projectRDM

Hook it up right there with a ring terminal. You may need a longer bolt though since the OE one is short, it's a regular M6x1.0.

You will still need a fuse on your power wire, whatever is suggested from the manufacturer, probably like a 50A or so. As far as overloading it though, an 800W amp, *if* it is indeed 800W (doubtful), would still draw less current than the starter.

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rb25crazy

awesome, so just to be 100% sure it is OK to just run two ring terminals under that same 100a fuse input link correct? and i gotta buy that m6x1.0 bolt or something as well and i'm set? would, i still need to use that additional ground wire that came with the amplifier kit?

or is the oe ground good enough since i'm running it off the fusebox instead of just making an independent run.

umm, oh yea my bad hehe my amplifier is a 4 way, diamond audio 4 x 150 so it's 600 hehe not that 800 that i said before.

just need these two q's answered

1. is it ok to run two ring terminals off that 100a fuse input
2. do i need to make one more ground? or is the oe ground sufficient

thank you so much really appreciate it.

KasperSlide

RDM is right bolting it to that 100amp fuse will be no problem.
as for your amp ground its recommended that it be no longer that 2-3ft. you can bolt it to the chassis using a few self taping screws or a bolt some where near the location of your amp

projectRDM

It's fine. You can steal a bolt anywhere on your car, virtually any bolt with a 10MM head is an M6x1.0 thread.

You will ground the amp where it's mounted, not to the battery. Find a bolt that goes into the chassis, remove it, scrape away the paint around to get a good connection, then secure the ground lead there.

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rb25crazy

awesome awesome thanks a lot

is it ok to use a copper 4 gauge ring terminal? or will it go melt on me, or should i use an aluminum one.

thanks again.

projectRDM

Any kind of ring is fine. You're not welding with it. If a copper ring would melt, so would the copper wire.

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rb25crazy

lol, that's makes so much sense god damn lol ima a turd. for not thinking.

rb25crazy

1. wire it to 100a input fuse
2. wire into anotehr 150a fuse
3. wire it directly into amplifier
4. ground amplifier using stock ecu location
5. wire the remote to the head unit
6. wire up to my components.
7. check all wires for TIGHT SNUG, AND CORRECT POSITIONS IE. POS iin pos... neg in neg...

finally turn it on, no power to the amplifier
I DON'T get what i'm doing wrong someone help ahh

murda-c

Check fuses?

Make sure your amp turn on lead is correctly connected to your head unit.

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projectRDM

You grounded it to the ECU ground? No. That's not a threaded hole and is a poor ground for a large supply like an amplifier. You can also cause interference in the car by doing so.

Where is the amp mounted? Ground it to a BOLT, like a seat bolt, shock tower, something solid and substantial.

Also, what is this 150A fuse you mention, and where is it? The power lead should come off the 100A fusible link in the car, then within 18 inches have another fuse inline, but I would say no more than 50A, the amp cannot pull that much current.

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rb25crazy

yeha, i grounded it to the ecu ground.

the amp is just sitting under the car seat sitting on the bare carpet.

the 150a fuse is what came with the jl audio wiring kit, it looks like this

100a ---- 4 awg wiring--- 150a ---- 4awg wiring directly to amp.

i checked all the fuses they dont look blown hehe.

the the power doesnt even turn on lol, so either i have a defective amp or i'm doing something terribly wrong.

KasperSlide

well do you have the ground for the amp. Also the remote wire(usually blue also can be labeled p.cont) hooked up to the blue wire on the radio harness????

rb25crazy

yes ground for amp. yes blue wire to radio

aNskY

but have you tried a different ground? go buy a cheap multimeter it will be your best friend