Bleakley

Searched a little. Bad information everywhere.
Do J30 rear sway bars bolt up to S13 subframe?

Doing some mods to my my car. One of which is using GKTech’s weld-in LCA Mount so it’s the same as if running an S14 subframe.
My car came factory HICAS, I’ve already swapped in a non-HICAS S13 subframe and retained the 21mm rear sway bar. I think it’s going to be too thick, but didn’t want the 15mm bar either. Was hoping the 19mm j30 nar would be the answer? And hollow to boot!

Coming here for your guys’ thoughts.

PoorMans180SX

Sorry I meant to reply to this but it's detailed and I've been stacked. What is your actual caster set at? You need to run low caster with those knuckles, like 4* or less to get them to function right. Often times you still need to adjust the lower arm for caster despite the top hats being in the forward position. Also the low ackerman setting might not be the best if you want good feel.

Yes, because the knuckles are for drift only, the bumpsteer adjustment is optimized for low caster, big angle setups. You can just run an OEM style outer with those knucks.

So basically either limit your lock with lock stops if you want to run a very self-steering setup or dial out the caster.

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Marphie21

Has anyone tried out the new GKTECH SUBFRAME ANTI-SQUAT REDUCTION WELD IN KIT for the S13 generation subframes?

Any reviews about the actual handling changes? Any problems after welding them on?

S14rebuild

The guy literly 2 post above yours just said he installed them.....

PoorMans180SX

Yes they do. Seems to work well for most people..

Geomaster 3's up front. At some point I'll level the car and level the camera so you can get an accurate picture, this is rough for now. Car is going lower.





All the clearance with GKtech stuff (my sway bar arms might be upside down). The trailing wheel actually hits the bottom edge of the lower control arm. Now I know why all the aftermarket arms are thinner. Not sure if I want to fuck with it or just build the lock stops so it doesn't happen.

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S14rebuild

Nice edit.......

mr.nismo.

There's also the part that in that post about actually driving with the modification, not just install..

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mr.nismo.

You know you'll end up fucking with it either way. Might as well just do it lol

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PoorMans180SX

Normally yes, but I’m trying to keep this car somewhat simple and don’t really need every degree of angle. That’s what my other chassis is for. The lca extension is way too long, I think I’m just going to use the Nakamura method and put some stock S14 arms on and use spacers if I need them.

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dbeiler

You're talking about the inside of the trailing wheel hitting the LCA close to the balljoint? That clearance issue never even crossed my mind when I was thinking about extending my stock LCAs. Good to know. You could always just switch to a bigger wheel size for more room.

I'm using the GKtech LCA extended about 30mm. 18" wheels. Only thing limiting my angle is the back/inside part of the leading wheel is about to hit the brake line bracket. Already has plenty of angle. Haven't measured it yet.

Your caster arms have weight reduction cuts while my arms are solid metal. Wonder what prompted that change? Manufacture cost savings?

Marphie21

TheRealSy90

Actually your solid version is the current version. I bent a couple of the cutout versions and they finally just made it solid. Probably a slight production cost benefit also.

As far as the brake line brackets I have always moved the bracket forward one hole and just use the one bolt to hold it, usually is enough room at that point.

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PoorMans180SX

Something to note if you're going to buy Geomaster 3's is that they do push the wheel out farther and give you more negative camber in the drift setting. I'm running 20mm extended arms and still have around 4.5* negative camber with the strut tops all the way out and a little forward inside the stock ring. I always take lock pictures with the camera inline with the strut tops.

This is lock with 20mm extended, non-notched arms.



I welded a plate over the notches to put the lock stops where the un-notched arm would be.

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2_Liter_Turbo

Did you bolt the geomaster/WF knuckles up in the "grip" setting at all? How is the fit and build quality? Until I have the time to get my own knuckles designed/made, I wanted to look into something else for my TA S14, and my selection is fairly limited, as I don't need a bunch of steering angle. I had GKT front knuckles and the fit and finish was terrible so I offloaded them, lol.

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96 S14: Grip Track Car
90 R32: Bucket List Car
92 S13: Just for Fun Car
Instagram: @SS.Maxey

PoorMans180SX

I haven't moved the ball joint and tie rods over to those holes yet, but I like the fit and finish of the product, it seems very high quality to me. The coating is a little fragile on the square edges if it gets hit with a wrench, but that's kind of a given. I would recommend these to anyone.

Once I get the tie rods cut down and the rack bushings swapped out, I'll move the arms around and get some shots of ackerman and such. I'm very curious how the alignment settings are going to change between the two as well, especially when it comes to caster.

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slider2828

I am using Geomaster 1 with T3 30mm extended.... I compensated with the GKTech V3 Camber Castor plates..... What do you think? Good or not so good setup?

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2_Liter_Turbo

Glad they fit well. Definitely post when you get a chance to play with the "grip" settings. I'm curious as well! Not sure why these companies can't do a high quality coating, it's not very hard, lol. The GKT stuff comes off if you sneeze on them.

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96 S14: Grip Track Car
90 R32: Bucket List Car
92 S13: Just for Fun Car
Instagram: @SS.Maxey

PoorMans180SX

Sounds like a solid setup, should handle nicely.

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PoorMans180SX

Once again, Geomaster V3, ~20mm extended arms. This is where I needed to put the strut top at to achieve about -3.5* camber.

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PoorMans180SX

Not sure if anyone this side of the pond is using this, but I just ordered it. I'll let you know how it goes.

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Krusty_s13

Interested to hear your thoughts on that piece. Who is manufacturing it?

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PoorMans180SX

Team Hanging Loose in the UK.

https://www.teamhanginloose.com/prod...15-r32-r33-r34

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mr.nismo.

I've been hoping for the GK one to be done, but for 350 total? That's a hell of a deal. Excited to hear your thoughts on it.

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TheRealSy90

Weird that the holes where it mounts to the unibody are slotted. Going to have to make sure it's centered and doesn't slip laterally.

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PoorMans180SX

With the current exchange rate, it's $405 shipped, which I definitely think is still a deal.

Yeah I think that's so it fits both S13 and S14. We'll see how it goes but I might have something machined to fit. They said they've shipped quite a few of them over here.

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S14rebuild

Super noob to all this crazy drift angle shit but what what yall say for s14

Go with techo toys 25mm front lower control arms, some companys modded stock knuckles and gktech tierod spacers???

mr.nismo.

Got akebono brakes to work with GK knuckles (front and rear). Super surprised honestly. Went a lot better than trying to fit the cts-v calipers up front.

Yes I know my harness needs love lol

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TheRealSy90

Comeon post all the details man! Those look great.

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mr.nismo.

So for the fronts, I used the Z1 Motorsports akebono to z32 brackets. The GK caliper mounting ears are thinner than OEM, requiring spacers. l found 5.5mm thick washers that were perfect. 12mm ID and 30mm OD, they're the same width at the mounting ears. The 11mm of spacing centered the caliper perfectly.

For the rear, I initially tried using Z1's rear adapter, but it wasn't going to fit. I started messing with it, and soon realized it looked rather close trying to mount it directly to the knuckle. I used the lower opening of the upper mounting ear and an M10 bolt passing through from the front of the caliper. Then on the lower mounting ear, I filed open the bottom hole (I checked with GK for structural safety) to use an M12 threading into the caliper. For rotor centering I used a 2mm wheel spacer behind the rotor and it's perfect. Another option is machining 2mm from the caliper itself, but I opted for moving the rotor. Even with the spacer, there's still plenty of hub sticking out for the wheel to sit on.

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mr.nismo.

To add to my last post now that they're actually installed for good.

also, for spacing the rotor out for the rear, a benefit I forgot to add was being able to put a wrench on the hex of the pass through upper bolt.

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