whatsastance

After lurking, and researching, i've opted to turbo my ka after a rebuild instead of an sr. the only thing i'm really iffy about is fuel options and tuning as far as turboing goes. I will be using a t3/t4 turbo i think should be a good fit.

I'm looking to get around 250-300 whp, probably on the lower end because this will be my daily. On the rebuild should i get forged internals to be safe? Or will new oem spec work? I was thinking running a lower compression piston would be better but i didn't know if i could get away with spending $900 less lol, but i will spend it if it's recommended.

As for fuel and tuning what's the recommended size for those power goals? I was thinking 440cc or higher. And what are people's experiences with Enthalpy or Nistune?

Anyone else having trouble with ka-t.org? i wanted to get on there and look at what people are putting down on dyno's and trying to mimmick their setups to see what would work best for me but it wouldn't load ):

All in all just looking for opinions on fuel, tuning, and internals, personal experiences would be great too I already read the informative parts of the ka24det faq.

masternate

I've been having trouble with ka-t.org since yesterday but now it's up. Oh and I've been reading that forged pistons (and i think also rod bearings) are the main things to worry about for less than ~350-~400whp. Double check this though.

whatsastance

alright thanks for the info i'll try and confirm some stuff on there.

picsbypenny

It's up again. I'm on stock internals I've only got on it once because I'm not tuned yet but they will hold 300 all day.

I'm running 740cc injectors and will run 15psi with E85. Which will be at the upper end of the duty cycle for them.

I recommend 550cc Z32 MAF and JWT ECU for a 300hp daily setup on PUMP GAS.

Hope that helps,
-d.p

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95 RB25NEO Silvia Skid Race Thing
95 2J Dreaming 240sx Street Car

whatsastance

yeah i wanted to run pump gas thinking i'm only gonna be on 8-10 psi of boost. but that helps a lot i guess i won't have to upgrade after all maybe i'll get new pistons to lower the compression of the motor to 9:1 or 8.5:1 depending on what i choose.

Any recommendations for injectors brand wise? And I need peak and hold injectors right?

picsbypenny

1991-98 : 550cc Fuel Injectors | DeatschWerks

BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK IMO.


edit: these guys have them for sale

http://zilvia.net/f/engine/488442-de...-shipping.html

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95 RB25NEO Silvia Skid Race Thing
95 2J Dreaming 240sx Street Car

1jzjoey

sr injectors, z32 maf, walbro 255 fuel pump, apexi safc2. and you should be fine.

make sure and get a good WIDEBAND setup too, not narrowband

Vadim's13

I'd recommend at list investing in to forged pistons.. if u can afford some eagle rods even better.. yes stock internals COULD be good. But its a gamble.. the reason y I say that its cus by adding turbo to the motor u significantly increase ur exhaust temps.. and stock pistons are not designed for that..
And like every one else said good tuning!! Pay the extra $ and have a pro do it for u.


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whatsastance

i was probably gonna go with wiseco or je pistons.

I'm never gonna use a safc that's asking for trouble in my opinion since i can't adjust timing. I'm thinking i'm gonna use a jwt ecu and get it tuned by my professor or a shop in chicago. any recomendations on tuners in illinois? or close to

whatsastance

thanks for the edit i posted there those you don't have to switch up the harness plugs right? and would an aftermarket fuel rail do me any good?

1jzjoey

i have 3 forged pistons if you need them ill let them go for cheap too since its not a full set, i can call up the company and get all the info on them if your interested. they are low compression i know that.

and im pretty sure they can handle 600hp but not completely sure, gotta call the place up.

whatsastance

how would i go about sourcing just one more piston though?

Vadim's13

Sorry illest.s13 not trying to cut u out or anything. But I wouldn't buy some ones set of pistons unless they r new..
Just my 2c

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whatsastance

I was thinking that as well but he didn't state the condition of them.

1jzjoey

they are pretty much new, dude i got my parts motor from threw a rod through the block when he started the engine because he forgot to torque everything down. they dont even have 15min of idle time on them.

look around im sure people on ebay will have some, maybe the company can get you one, never looked into it myself because i decided to get away from the ka and do a swap, like i said if you're interested ill get all the specs/pic and what not

whatsastance

alright lemme know the specs and everything and i'm guessing the 4th was the one that went through the block lol

Frank_Jaeger

If one's toast I wouldn't trust the other three.

You can buy a set of brand new forged pistons / rods on here for $600-700. People buy them intending on doing a build and then their project falls apart and they just liquidate. I got new unopened 8.8:1 forged Arias pistons and Eagle rods for $700.

whatsastance

Good point. and i'm thinking forged pistons will be enough and can be had for not too much extra to the build total.

Anyone here have a JWT ecu? How's the whole process of working with them? Their page doesn't really say too much i will email em for myself eventually, but any type of experience with them would be appreciated.

1jzjoey

only one was bad because a rod shot through the block taking some of that piston with it, the other ones are in great condition

1990 sr hatch

^lol this guy again

GroundPerformance

Personally if you have a fairly good condition KA.. I wouldn't worry about rebuilding it at this stage. Complete your turbo setup and power goals. 250~300 whp goal is easily done on the KA-T and be reliable as long as you have you good tune and dont drive like a jack ass all the time. Once your done then source a blown KA then work with that and slowly build it and always be on the lookout for deals.

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whatsastance

I'm not sure how well of condition it is internally, I was only gonna rebuild because I have a brand new automotive lab and a class that pertains to student projects and motor rebuilding. I guess I can do a compression test and go from there.

picsbypenny

I'm using a stock rail with 740cc and will be using the same rail with my 1000cc. I would upgrade lines and the fpr though.

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95 RB25NEO Silvia Skid Race Thing
95 2J Dreaming 240sx Street Car

picsbypenny

I have a JWT ECU. Cheapest route is find someone with the same chassis as you that recently upgrade to EMS. Buy theirs and send it to get re-tuned for $100 at JWT.

I'd call them with any questions:
Jim Wolf Technology 619-442-0680

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95 RB25NEO Silvia Skid Race Thing
95 2J Dreaming 240sx Street Car

ATLspeed

- 550cc
- z32
- enthalpy, efi specialist, jwt, or nistune if you want a more precise tune
- Holset hx30/35

Be a happy person

*I have a RS Enthalpy ecu that I dont need if you are interested? A retune from RS Enthalpy is $150

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93 s13 Vert - 2jz/cd009 -- parted/sold
95 Supra Turbo

ATLspeed

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93 s13 Vert - 2jz/cd009 -- parted/sold
95 Supra Turbo

SuperSlydewayZ14

i had this EXACT setup tuned with forged pistons, connecting rods and cometic head gasket. dynoed at 260whp at 9 (maybe 10) pounds of boost. (gt2871r.64)

it was reliable as could be, never any issues with it for the 3-4 years i had it. even made it through a 100 degree track day with absolutely no overheating issues or loss of power. i daily drove it as well.....

sold it a year ago and heard its still running perfect.

SuperSlydewayZ14

oem radiator and stuff too lol

whatsastance

idk how i feel about using safc i feel like it's better to adjust timing on the ecu and not the distributor.

SuperSlydewayZ14

yeah, i was always scared too....everyone always suggested getting the AEM EMS but its lasted this whole time without problem...I do suggest not using the SAFC if you have the money for real engine management.