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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 04-17-2011, 03:54 PM   #1
lbs_ft
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Exclamation S13 KA24DE - No Power To Dizzy

I own a 1990 S13 Coupe that the had a 1993 KA24DE swapped in by a previous owner. I blew that motor, so I recently finished swapping in a 1996 KA24DE, and it started yesterday with no issues. I drove it around the block, not a problem, but I noticed that my radio wasn't working.

I pulled it out and began to check and replace all the connections, some of which bypass the radio plug and tap directly into the car's wiring harness, namely the ignition and ground wires. I had the key turned to ACC (fucking stupid, I know) which I fiddled with the radio so I would know as soon as I had it right, and it ended up being a loose ground connection, but I'm worried that I might have touched the ground and ignition wires on the harness together.

I got it all back together, radio works fine, then I turn the key, and the car cranks and cranks and cranks but won't catch. I pull a spark plug to see if its sparking. Nope. I pull the dizzy-to-coil wire. No spark.

I fiddle with the battery leads, and eventually when I try to turn the car over, the EGM relay begins to click rapidly. I replace it. No more clicking, but the car still won't catch.

So now I think I'm fucked. There were no sparks, no smoke, no smell of burning electronics, but I'm terrified that I might have fried my ECU by leaving the key on ACC (stupidstupidstupid).

Anybody have any ideas? I'm in crisis mode now...
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:04 PM   #2
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Okay, I checked the grounds to the engine, and they're all good.

I used a meter to measure the power to the coil, and both the plugs are receiving around 12 volts when the key is on accessory, so power is getting to the coil. I also noticed that there was a fork-style connector on the base of the coil that wasn't connected to the wiring harness connector.

Does this sound right? Should there be power getting to the coil at all times? Should I just have to replace the coil? Or is the ECU still damaged?
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:38 PM   #3
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always start with the easiest . try a coil first if your getting power and have a good ground
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:17 PM   #4
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I set the ECU into diagnostic mode today, and the it cooperated with the light blinking and all, which I guess rules out a fried ECU.

After cranking the car and setting the key to ON, but without the engine running, the ECU blinks and reads 11 (Crank Angle Sensor Circuit), 21 (Ignition Signal Circuit), and 34 (Detonation Sensor Circuit).

Any ideas?
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Old 04-18-2011, 05:03 PM   #5
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Also, I tested the wires running from the harness into th coil and resister.

The 2 wires to the coil had a fluctuating reading with the key in the ignition, but it stuck around 8. It jumped to just under 12 with the key turned.

Same for the other set of wires, except there are three there and I don't know the order.

I have the FSM for my car, but not for the twin cam engine, so that's no help.

Anyone know or have a writeup on how to test an S13 KA24DE ignition coil?
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:19 PM   #6
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Okay, just finished reassembling the distributor. Cleaned it with electric parts cleaner and put dialectric grease on the connections. Car still won't start.

Took the ECU apart, and goddamit, not one burn mark. No smell of burning electronics either.

Here's a picture:


The ECU has a green sticker and the number 24, followed by the PO A11-B44 GO7, so its from a manual KA24DE and its good.


So next is to test the resistance on the coil and dizzy. I'll report back once that's done.
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:32 PM   #7
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Now I'm only getting codes 21 and 34, Ignition and Detonation. No duh, the car won't ignite and it won't detonate hahaha
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Old 04-19-2011, 02:43 PM   #8
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All the relays tested out a-ok.

Resistance between the ignition coil terminals is supposed to be 1ohm, my results varied between 1.4 ohms and 1.7 ohms.

Resistance between the ignition coil terminals and and the dizzy terminal is supposed to be 10 kilohms, my result was a solid 9.88.

What do you make of this?
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:44 PM   #9
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i had problems with my pins at the ecu where i guess they were kinda worn out and i had to kinda tighten up the terminals but that was with a apexi power fc. this is gunna sound really stupid but try disconnecting the radio and try to start it. prolly not it since your getting codes. i still say buy a 30 dollar coil and try it out
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:11 PM   #10
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not to sound like a dick but, you're pulling the ECU and everything else, have you checked fuses? i read everything but see nothing of you checking fuses, start with that, under the hood fuses too.
check the fuse for the ignition and for engine control, should be under the hood.
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Old 06-03-2012, 01:52 PM   #11
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check your alternator fuseable link.....mine did the same thing and it ended up being that
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