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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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02-13-2009, 07:48 AM | #1 |
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HELP! SR doesn't even crank
mods: pretty much stock block s13 sr20det in an s13 koyo radiator manual boost controller stock smic and piping replaces starter new battery. . when i turn the key to 2 to start all the lights turn on, fuel pump primes for a few secs and stops. but when the key is turned all the way the starter clicks and everything turns off untill i release the key. i thought it might be my ground coming off the battery since it was toasted a bit but i swapped that today and still no go. there's a full tank of gas and all fuses are good everywhere. also installed a brand new battery. there aren't any other electronics to interfere cause i disconnected my fan. all my fluids are at good levels. i tried to jump it and it doesn't crank, just clicks. i messed with the little clutch pedal button thinkin it wasn't engaged enough from the clutch pedal and same result. i had to push start it last fall and now that i got it back in the shop same problem. i've checked all fuses and relays and they're fine. i have a multimeter but not sure exactly what i should be looking for. maybe my injectors aren't getting a signal? i looked over my engine harness and made sure all plugs are tight. up to this point everything has been fine but it slowly took longer and longer to start. so to sum it up i get in, turn the key and pause, fuel pump primes and lights come on, turn all the way it clicks everything turns off and it doesn't even try to turn, release the key and lights come back on. advice?
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02-13-2009, 01:14 PM | #2 |
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"just clicking" might mean the solenoid is ok for now and you have a mechanicaly frozen starter. or faulty battery cable connection even if they appear to be on right.
"everything turns off" might be a sign of improper contact of either main + or - cables. Turn or reset the battery cables in a slightly different angle coming off the posts. Test again. "multimeter" turn it to volts, attach red lead to "+" and black lead to solid ground "-" (lol) on chassis and check the voltage off the batt. If the multimeter goes all the way down to 0.00v or turns off while attempting to start engine, I would guess a poor connection at the battery. hrm... maybe a bad starter solenoid or frozen bendix within the starter. go crude style with a hammer and hit the starter once or twice. see if it frees anything up... if not maybe the solenoid (where wires hook up to the starter) is internally effed... anyone else feeling free to chime in?
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02-14-2009, 03:48 PM | #3 |
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Be careful hitting the starter. These new starters that are smaller in siZe will actually just break. Their smaller and becuase they use different magnets/setups, but they are high output.
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02-15-2009, 12:32 PM | #4 |
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since the new starter has been installed i haven't tried to hit that one but i have on the older one to no luck. hopefully thats all it'll take but for some reason i doubt it hehe. thanks for all the advice so for guys.
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02-25-2009, 09:18 PM | #8 |
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Did you replace your alternator with battery hooked up? If so, check your 100amp main engine fuse in your engine bay. might as well check the other two fuses as well, even if you didn't replace with battery connected. Another thing, the small ground wire on your alternator might not be hooked up. Just thoughts.
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03-09-2009, 02:57 PM | #10 |
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thats a good idea about my alternator. i haven't done anything with that. i know my fuses are good but how would i check a relay? thanks again for all the suggestions
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03-09-2009, 03:33 PM | #11 |
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problem is around the starter area. not battery if you tried to jump it. or the fuses cause the solenoid is still trying to engage. did you wire the starter up right? might also be the ignitor. follow the main power wire from the starter to where it hooks up have someone try to start car and put volt meter there on the connection. if no power its the ignitor. if there's power then you got a bad starter and take it back. happened to me already.
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03-11-2009, 03:49 PM | #12 |
Leaky Injector
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Could also be your ignition switch, this happened to me so i wired up a push start button and it works fine now. Try jumping power through the starter terminals, if it cranks it's your ignition switch.
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03-16-2009, 02:14 PM | #16 |
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alright so i jacked the ca up, went and checked the ground and it seems to be on tightly. i checked all the connections in that area and they seem to be fine. i had a buddy check the voltage at the battery terminals when i turn the key and it same around 40 so i guess thats good. i couldn't really trace the cable that exact from the stater to the batt but everything seemed fine. when i took the ground off the starter it clicked just like it always does with it connected. i didn't personally install the starter since my free time is limited so i had my buddy at an autoshop swap it out. i have yet to check the voltage through the starter's + and - but that should be soon. it seems like the last thing left is the ignitor. anyone wanna unplug their ignitor and see if they have the same symtoms i have? lol i guess when i try to run power right to the starter and it turns on, i'll just add that to my switch panel. i'm gettin a bit anxious
i also found this plug but iono where it's supposed to go to. i doubt it's been plugged before though |
03-18-2009, 04:36 PM | #19 |
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def not the ignitor.
do some research, man. the ignitor just fires the spark plugs. You aren't there yet, your engine doesnt even crank If the engine doesn't turn, it's one of 3 things bad battery bad starter bad wiring take the battery and starter to autozone, have them test them. That picture you posted shows what looks to be a cheapass butt splice on some wire. I'd bet most of your wiring is hacked together and the problem lies there |
03-20-2009, 12:16 PM | #20 |
Leaky Injector
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