omgshawn

Figured I would make this thread to give some people ideas on doing this since I haven't really seen it done like this before. I'm starting at the beginning and working my way to where I am now so people can see what's involved.

It started off as a battery relocation, then a minor tuck, and then my engine blew so I'm doing a full tuck now both fuse boxes, body harness and engine harness.


Here's the battery relocation


Parts



Battery and amp wiring





Done




Now onto the harness...


Well my main goal was to move the whole fuse box/relays in a spot where it was still easily accessible and did not involve a lot of cutting and rewiring. My first choice was under the dash but that seemed like a big project and I have more important things to do on my car. The way I figured out is still easy to get to and is not a massive job compared to putting it under the dash.

First I had to separate the fuse box wires from the rest of the harness. This isn't as easy as it looks, it took me over a hour to just untangle the mess of wires the factory did. Lots of wires are wrapped around other bundles of wire and they need to be cut to separate the bundles.

(don't mind the rust battery tray it's in the process of being removed)

The wires that need to be seperated, these run from the main harness on the driver side, under the rad support, and through the body where the battery goes. These will be tucked under the rad support and possibly through the outside so there are no wires in the engine bay over there.


The split



The unnecessary amount of wire running to the fuse box. With where I'm putting it I'm going to be able to remove over a foot of wiring from this section, it just depends if I want to do that much soldering lol


This whole loop section can be removed


Where the fuse box will be. It will sit alittle low that way I can put a cooling panel over it and it will be hidden


Also going to be tucking my lower harness which I haven't spent much time on yet


Then

[img]


This whole section from my hand forward can/will be removed.


I also started on the lower harness.

The wires that run to the trans


Alternator wires and oil pressure sensor


Water temp(lower rad hose) and resistor(?) plugs


Plugs that run to the fuse box



The quick fuse box mount lol, I might just throw the cover on and re ziptie it up there, it makes changing fuses or relays easier haha


The lower harness, next it's going to be wrapped.

omgshawn

And after that..


The lower harness



The lower harness--fusebox wiring



Misc. relays and stuff lol


Now to get wrapped..and the rest of the bay done


And don't worry about the frame rail/everything else I'm going to be replacing that section and also doing tubs before the bay gets finished.


I disconnected the main harness from the pass. side kick panel and pulled it all the way out. It was then rerouted on the otherside(outside) of the rad support and front end metal. And the hole I discovered in the frame rail...just another thing to add to the list to do.



And as you can see the lower harness now runs outside of the bay too. It will be run on either the top of the bottom of the pinch weld from the frame rail. The alt. wires will come up through the bottom in front of the subframe and the lower radiator plug will be the same pretty much.





Since I haven't had a windshield washer bottle in the car since I've owned it I think I'm going to remove all the wiring. The harness on the left is all that wiring.


The driver side of the harness and relays that I need to find a place to hide.


Still need to solder the fuse box back on but the wires are almost the correct length lol


Misc. harness that have to be cut still

omgshawn

Everything is pretty much in the spot it's going to be when it's done. Eventually I want to take the lower harness and engine harness, combine them and remove all the connectors. Then I'd put a connector and the couple wires that run to the fuse box so I can remove the whole thing as one.

The engine harness-body connectors and wiring. It will follow alongside the shape of the well how it's held up.


This is all the lower harness-engine harness connectors. The loop section(yellow,red,brown etc. wires) needs to be taken out. The other wires to the right will run up to the alt. and lower rad hose sensor.


The body harness runs behind the fusebox harness. They will be wrapped separately.


I think this will look nice when wrapped. I tried to not block the flow to the rad as much as I could.


The engine harness will be ran under the firewall pinch weld like so.


This section will run across almost all of the pinch weld to the other side. It's grounds, 02 sensor, coil plug and other shit that's over there.


After having it mocked up I realized I need to remove over a foot from the engine harness also.


I'm going to even out the wire wires(fusebox power wires) and solder on a section of 4ga wire which will run to my splitter.


Another shot of the wiring


Driver side wiring


Overall


The engine harness currently

I'm going to be able to pull about a 1.5ft section out of the harness. With the new intake manifold and having no emissions/AAC/IACV or really..anything at all, the harness is substantially smaller. I still need to wait for the engine to go back into the car so I can mock up how long some wires need to be before I wrap it.

Laid out on the floor


Coil, 02 and ground plugs, will be run behind the engine probably hidden under the firewall pinchweld


This whole section will run under the manifold. All that's there is injector plugs, TPS connector, water temp connectors, knock sensor plug(will be cut really short) and the dizy plug. All wires will be cut to length and wrapped before the harness is put in the car.



And that's about where I'm at. I almost have all of the fuse box wires soldered, just got to finish that and a few other wires and it'll be wrapped. I'll update this tomorrow with most recent pics.

JK2005

i love how titles still have 56k NO No in them. Do people still have dialup?

LOUD240

No offense, but thats not the way to do a wire tuck! you are going to end up with a ton of wire shorts,and the fuse block is in a terrible place

Om1kron

what this guy said... aaaand sorry to burst your bubble, it's been done before and the right way. AN FYI those breaker switches are junk. get a fused clamp for your positive battery terminal.

http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/255761...-location.html

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Wayne

omgshawn

How? All connections are soldered and wrapped, and I think the fuse box is in a very good spot. It's out of the way and still remains easily accessible, it's not like I'm going to be fixing fuses everyday...

I would like to see some of your work

omgshawn

I guess $55 breakers are junk.. I've had it for 2 years not 1 problem.

And do you people not know how to read? I did not feel like pulling the dash to put it behind there and this was easy.

Om1kron

feel free to look at my profile and search...

or you can go to Simone : My 1996 240sx and spend a few days reading how I built my car from the floor up.

But no biggie, sorry for stepping into your thread and dishing out my 2 cents.

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Wayne

omgshawn

Well, first off that wasn't directed towards you, look at the post times.

And now that you mention it, do you not see my car on jack stands? The bay is getting tubbed, shaved, all rust fixed....vh45, full interior redo with suede, and lots more so I would say mine is too..


I didn't make this thread to be bashed for something that to me is a logical way of doing it with the amount of work I wanted to spend on it, but then again, this is zilvia...

DALAZ_68

yet...pulling the dash...was to hard/complicated/you were to lazy to do...!?

you logic fails sir...

but your right, this is ONE way of doing it...not the best...

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omgshawn

Your english fails.

Seeing as I have done/am doing all the work myself no it is not hard, yes I was too lazy, and no it is not complicated. I do not plan to have my interior done before the car is running so I did not see a point in pulling the dash twice(I'm doing suede on the dash=it's gonna be pulled).

If you can enlighten me on a better way I should of done this without pulling the dash and removing all the main harness and lower harness wires from the bay then I would love to hear it.


And could you also explain to me in what ways putting it under the dash is better? Maybe use a few less feet of wire? If that's the case I didn't do this for weight, I did it to hide all the wires, and from what I can tell, I did that.

g-via

I would love to have the space/time to clean up the hackjob of a wiring from my swap.

Why is he going to end up with a ton of wire shorts?

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projectRDM

That is the shittiest, jankiest, most fucked up harness job I've ever seen, and that's saying a lot. I've seen kids try this shit for a decade and half and you sir have nailed the coffin closed with that mess. I would feel bad for that poor car, but since it's a $150 rusted out hull I don't.

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tr4c3

Are you retarded? He hasn't retaped and loomed it yet. The harness looks fine. He didn't tuck the harness like everyone else, oh no. And it had some rust, what s13 doesn't? 36 years old and you troll like a teenager lol.

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projectRDM

Don't be mad because I attacked your gay lover.

The fuseboxes should have been left alone or mounted inside, where water and debris won't get in them. Hanging off the core support is a bad place. And looming won't do anything for harnesses which are ran near moving parts or sitting in places where debris gets trapped, like laying on a frame rail. The whole idea of cleaning up the wiring is to reduce weight, remove extra connectors, and make it safer while easier to access what's needed. He has failed at all those areas.

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Fries

Haha.
This mess is why I havent even attempted to try this yet.

Take all the negativity with a grain of salt. Go back redo it the right way, we're all just trying to help.
Or don't and start a thread in 6 months about how you have alot of electrical issues.

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j20accord00

fellow toms river guys!..its your car, keep doing your thing man.

where in toms river are you located?

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92 Coupe ka-t

omgshawn

I don't see how they are near or will ever be in contact of moving parts. And the fuse box will not get water inside it, trust me. Remove weight? Lol what, 5lbs of wire? Right dude. And I guess you didn't read the part where I'm removing the connectors. Safer? Do you even know what you're talking about?


And he's my brother actually...

omgshawn

I'm on the border of manchester/toms river, a stones throw away from the marquee theater on rt37.

And yeah, I am bro, I don't take the internet seriously, especially zilvia trolls who think they're god at everything


I guess people can't read that it's not even done yet...

DALAZ_68

lol...i like how you didnt even get that misspelling left on purpose...the car wasnt gonna be running, what would have been bad about pulling the dash while the car isnt running and having ur super dope suede job done at th same time? nothing...thats what...one time deal...

yes another better way would have been to buy an identical chassis harness (which usually go dirt cheap since hardly anyone wants those) and measure out lengths needed and preformed a reduced harness properly, key in that is to measure measure measure, but im pretty sure you would have been to lazy to do that shit...

THAT ^

both my s13's have 0 rust

^ thats why you do it under the dash


seriously, im looking foward to that thread...

and ur right, wiring mess is the only reason im taking my time on learning were everything goes b4 i do a wiring harness job on my track s13... especially since theres wiring not even being used like auto belt crap, AC crap....etc

i honestly hope you dont let him touch your car...

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omgshawn

All wires were measured and are being cut and soldered now..

Like I said, I didn't want to pull the dash twice, I would rather spend that time finishing the engine bay.

Some more pics of my piece of shit and what's being done





(needs to be cleaned up a tad more)

Schassis707

LMFAO!! U guys argue like little kids, if he wanna do it like that than let him rock it. If he does shrink tube everything than it will be fine, it's also kinda a good thing bc wiring is a BITCH and fucks up soo often he re-doing it if u will. I no my car has a wiring problem and I'm just like fuck it I'll deal with it later, but idk about relocaing fuse boxes in 240s but in my Honda I was bout to start my tuck and relocate the battery on the front bumper part of the chassis since the battery so dinky and locate the fuse box in the glove box! Hella easy and convient to change the fuses and out of the way.. In some sort of way

dato

^ but lets just say he gets a short..... because the probabilty will be much greater.. oh my thats another conversation

Schassis707

True bout the fact he getting a short but that's even possible if a pro does the wiring time will tell if he gets a short, but fuck it, if that's what he wants to do rock it IMO.. The cars are projects for a reason... And projects always run into problems but shit happens I say good luck hope no short while u have it

dOMEmE

damn everyone really needs to stop talking shit, his car, he could do it whatever way he wants....if you think its wrong tell him nicely. dont go of saying that hes retarded, and thats fucked up etc etc....shit seriously... your supposed to be helping each other out not putting people down....damn!

OP do whatever you want and whatever you think is right, you learn from your mistakes....

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GripTerror

Ignore the dumb mother fuckers on here attacking you.

Good job, more than some people can do here, period.

I am actually wanting to get rid of unecessary wiring as much as possible as well as moving everything under the dash myself... not sure how i'll go about it all... but I'll see... this has given me some thought...

My car is a track car, so I don't have alot of trash that a stock car would... but the wiring is left all around.. so.... hopefully this will inspire me to do this, the only thing being I still have the engine in.

omgshawn

Thanks guys

I almost got everything soldered up, just got to pick up some shrink tubing and then it will be wrapped.

Eventually I might opt to put it under the dash but for now this setup will be fine.

And for the record, all wires that were extended use OEM harness wire, same color too, that way if I do have a short I can track it down easier.


Hopefully if it's not too windy out I can finish up the couple wires left and get a updated picture.


And btw...I'm not new to cars nor wiring and this is not my first wire tuck..

Schassis707

Lol smart with the oem color wire, how long would u say u extended the wires? I'm curious bc not only does it make higher rate for a short but could effect the travel of the current bc the wires r extended, I forget what it's called but either u or someone else prolly will

Soup Nazi

My S13 doesn't. You're from Toms River, you shouldn't be able to call anyone retarded.

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