Because_240

I've always been a muscle fan, but I recently traded my 2000 LS for the S14. It has issues, but nothing major. Needs rear shocks, all front end components, speedometer re-soldered, IAC, and more, but I'm overall happy with it.

Going forced induction, so I may be creeping and taking notes, thanks!!

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Mikester

Wrong section.

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Kingtal0n

why so serious.


Good job on the selection, I used to be all muscle as well. I went from N/A 350 chevy, to a 355 roots blown motor, to a 383 twin turbo,. ...

to a 2.0L turbo. And never looked back
The secret is in the vehice weight, and rarity. On this side of the fence, you can drive a 240sx for as long as you want, run 12's, get 30mpg, and sell it for more than you paid if you kept it clean.

Sell your KA for $400~ and buy an SR20DET from 95-98 from an S14 Silvia (S14 notchtop swap). The engines are about $2300 now, so with your KA discount thats < 2000. Use the stock 240sx exhaust system, they are proven up to 280RWHP. hardest part is finding a clean engine, they are getting rare.

And try not to change / touch your inner tie rods if they are not bent.
Get a clean set of S14/S15 Silvia 30mm Iron calipers and lose the factory brakes. You need lines/rotors for the swap. The pads seem to last forever in those brakes. Pay no more than $160 shipped for the calipers. Buy new rotors from rockauto.com. Lines are tricky, make sure you get high quality DOT approved stainless lines, or factory lines. Do not trust any cheap lines you see on ebay.

SPL makes good aftermarket TC-Rods. All 240s need new tc-rods or rod bushings.
I would not recommend lowering your 240 unless you have done hundreds of hours of research on the subject.
your car probably needs subframe collars (the bushings always go bad). they are cheap $55~ and easy to install. Or you can press in new bushings but that is work.
Use the stock turbocharger if you get the SR20DET.
If you desire is more than 280RWHP (12.8 @ 114) then I would forget about sr20det and go right for the 2JZ-GTE engine, but the swap will run $8,000+, which is still less than a built sr20det + turbo which is why you should skip the SR20. Then you will have 500rwhp daily driver @ 27mpg, with serious reliability, more than any built sr20det could ever provide. And because vehicle weight is 3200~lbs at that point, it would be like having 580rwhp in a Camaro. Low 11's on street tires with 2.2 60' times.

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5.3/4l80e/turbo 240sx playthrough:
https://tinyurl.com/turbo240

sleepyS14se

^^ subframe collars are garbage. replace the whole bushings..don't cheap out and waste the measly 25 dollars for collars.

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95 S14 se RB25DET 348whp

Because_240

Yeah, got to looking at it in the rack and the rear subframe is where I'm getting noise at. You can grab the front of the rear subframe and move it about 1/4" so new bearings is a must. Going to replace the end links on the front, outer tie rods and getting the GR/2 struts on all four corners. It is going to be a fun daily, so I'm going to go the expensive route and stay N/A, going with BC cams, 268/268, adjustable cam gears, double spring valve springs, go ahead and port/Polish the head while I have it off... I just want it to be a clean, fun car to tinker with. Not honestly trying to get over 200hp, but I wont bitch if I do, lol.

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Because_240

Also, I have resistors, but haven't attempted them, but I can't get my 1157 SMD bulbs to work... where is ideal to place the resistors?

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sleepyS14se

dude i went with kyb agx and megan springs.

im unhappy with them and my car is just a daily. I have attemped to drift a few times and i have so much body roll it is a joke.

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95 S14 se RB25DET 348whp