OIA

Hey guys, im pretty new to this forum, and i had a few questions, im looking to make 350-400whp on my s14 silvia, but i want it to be a safe daily driver, ive heard people doing bigger turbos, people building up the motor, and people just getting bigger injectors and a good tune, whats the safest way to get 350-400whp? and its a daily driver as well.

240boi115

SR20DET

The SR20 may be what started it all for most Nissan enthusiasts. They pull a premium a week before race-wars, and for good reason; It’s one of the few 4-cylinder engines that can reliably make over 350whp with just a turbo upgrade and supporting tuning—and with some block work and a big turbo, the sky’s the limit.
OVERVIEW
The SR20 comes out of the box making anywhere from 190-220whp, depending on the year of engine. If you’re still planning a swap I suggest the S14 SR20DET as the Variable Intake Cam timing spools the turbo faster and makes a good amount more mid-range power than the S13 SR20DET—however, that same VCT cam tends to fail with aggressive cams and usually needs to be locked-out with big cams. So if you’re shooting for under 400whp, the S14 SR is likely the way to go. Above that, it doesn’t really matter.

The SR20’s biggest bottleneck is its stock turbo. Depending on what kind of power you’re aiming to make, a simple turbo upgrade, injectors and ECU tuning may be all you need. Going over 350whp you’ll need to change the head gasket and head studs, and above 400-450whp you’ll need to build the block or else throwing a rod or melting a piston is in your certain future. Large cams require solid lifters to replace the hydraulic ones, and valve springs must be matched with the cams to prevent floating a rocker and destroying it (and sometimes, the rest of your engine)!

There are a ton of aftermarket SR20 parts that are designed to withstand years of die-hard abuse. I would hope you buy quality components, especially when it comes to gear that has moving parts.

ENTRY-LEVEL TUNING
The best value for an SR20 is right around 320whp. That will give you a stupid-fast car, one that is powerful enough to spin tires in 3rd gear, but still reliable with the stock engine. You can get away with this setup with the following components.

• Larger turbo: Garrett, HKS and Tomei make bolt-on turbos that fit the stock manifold for this application, and the following sizes work best: GT2871 0.64 A/R for up to 340whp, GT2871 0.86 A/R for up to 380whp.
• Aftermarket water and oil lines: To feed the turbo, make sure you use a turbo restrictor for the Garrett ball bearing turbo!
• Larger fuel injectors: You can use side-feed injectors and the stock fuel rail and pressure regulator for up to 400whp; the suggested size is 740cc.
• Larger fuel pump: There are drop-in replacements available that will flow enough for 400whp on the factory fuel system.
• Front-mount intercooler: You’ll need a reasonably-sized intercooler to avoid heat soaking, which reduces power, leads to detonation and may cause the engine to grenade.
• Turbo-back exhaust: Turbos hate backpressure. You need to free up the flow from the turbo back to make power and to lower turbo temperature.
• Aftermarket or new OEM coilpacks: The stock coilpacks seem to lose their spark energy over time and I find that we often need to upgrade the coilpacks to avoid ignition breakup on high power SR20’s.
• Spark plugs: One or two step colder spark plugs to avoid detonation at high power.
• Aftermarket clutch: to handle the additional torque—the stock clutch will never make it!
• Engine management: There are various options available, from a larger MAF and fuel controller up to a plug and play standalone. Professional tuning on a dyno will be needed either way.

AGGRESSIVE TUNING
The above will get you a setup that is making 300whp, and although the list may seem long, it’s really not very much to get an additional 50% power over stock! These are additional options that can make more power, but remember above 400whp and things get a lot more expensive:

• Aftermarket exhaust manifold: This will yield a lot more high RPM power, as the stock exhaust manifold starts to become a restriction at higher power/rpm.
• Aftermarket head gasket and head-studs: This is required if you plan on doing any sort of lapping or racing with your SR20 above 300whp.
• Aftermarket cams: Depending on the cams you select you can make a lot more top end power at the expense of mid-range, or just go for a mild boost in power from 3000rpm up. You really need to pick the RPM range where you think you’ll be spending most of your time and tune for that.
• Aftermarket intake manifold: An aftermarket manifold will make a lot more high RPM power, but at the expense of the mid-range.

CRAZY TUNING
The above setup will take care of you up to 380whp or so. Beyond that, the setup changes almost entirely, and then the budget needs to double (or more). There are a few guys running around with stock blocks closer to 500whp, but I don’t recommend anything that close to the edge. I’ve seen stock blocks blow at 420whp from throwing a rod.

If you want that kind of power, you’ll need to do away with the bottom-mount manifold and internally gated turbo, and get an aftermarket top-mount manifold, external gate and much larger turbo. A larger fuel system and dual pumps is required above 400-450whp, and right around there you’ll want to consider building the block with rods and pistons at the bare minimum. We’ve seen head porting make a huge difference with power and spool on these engines, so a good multi-angle valve job and some porting is a good idea.

CONCLUSION
As with anything, value is what counts. At 300-350whp the engine is happy, the turbo is still small enough that it is responsive and fun to drive, and the cost is about $15,000 cheaper than what it would take to go up to 450whp. While the SR20 is certainly an amazing engine, it does demand respect as an over-rev can throw a lifter and damage the motor.

Strengths Weaknesses
Strong block that can handle well over 350lb-ft of torque stock. Extremely easy to work on.
Small, lightweight engine that fits in many different chassis.
Tons of inexpensive aftermarket parts available.
The SR20’s main weakness is its hydraulic lifter and rocker design. Usually you’re okay below 7,500rpm with a soft-cut rev-limiter. Aggressive rev-limiting and high rpm, or big cams without matched springs cause rockers to break.
Stock head-gasket above 300whp needs to be replaced.
Stock gearbox usually fails above 350whp depending on the type of abuse.


Read more: Building Power With Nissan

these statements aren't from me but from super street but i do agree with what is being said here....

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OIA

Thanks man, so to be running 350whp, would the head gasket need to be replaced? I was reading everywhere else. And most people just got a bigger turbo, injectors and tune, ill be getting a fmic but it might not be right when I upgrade it, is 350hp just on the turbo upgrade, tune and injectors too much to be asking for?

EsChassisLove

Don't replace the head gasket until it fails. There are plenty of 400+whp SRs with oem HGs. And you don't need studs for over 350whp.

This guy just copy pasted some shit.

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EsChassisLove

And the stock gearbox can handle around 450hp/400tq before it turns to pudding.

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cotbu

That's how it starts, started whatever.... dude just edit your post after you've read some real shit!

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240boi115

not starting anything here but i did clearly say it wasnt from me. but it only took me 5 seconds to find this.
but i agree a head gasket isnt needed nor are head studs needed but it is a proactive move to do if you were wanting to build a solid reliable motor. the better you take care of your motor the better itll take care of you(on the road)

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240boi115

basically...you will for sure need a fmic to prevent heat soakage!
although i would get a better clutch rather than the stock one just to be safe. at 350hp the clutch will eventually take a crap on you...

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OIA

Ok sweet, what kind of clutch should I go with? I honestly didn't even look into clutches, it's going to be my daily if that makes a difference

fliprayzin240sx

Eh, HG...I'd change it if you got the time and money for it. Makes it alot easier if you're doing a swap with the engine out. ARP headstuds, fresh stock HG, its one of those preventative stuff that people seem to over look. Stock HG is like $40, ARP studs are $120 ish, well worth the investment.

And I say stock HG, NOT an aftermarket metal HG. If you run a metal HG, you'd need to mill down the front cover to match the block.

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cousin speed

hi guys,i agree with all said and would like to add a few things if they will help. Did my own build on my s14. Chose to do a strong build. Here is the list. Front mount intercooler,bigger injectors 750cc/1000cc,bigger turbo,external waste gate,after market manifold,bigger fuel pump,fuel pressure regulator,forged pistons/rods,head gasket,arp bolts,external oil cooler,alumium radiator,rolls of heat rap, brian crower or tomei rev kit(valve springs,cams e.t.c),spitronics or dictator engine managment system,after market clutch kit( clutch plate,pressure plate,light weight flywheel,thrust bearing and fork) upgrade break disks and calipers. Hope i havent left out anything. Never forget to upgrade your breaking system. With these parts and a dyno tune u could get up to 700bhp. So

Kingtal0n

Dont ever install head studs in any engine unless you have a proper deck plate and have the machine shop bore it with the head studs torqued down on the plate.

that said, the oem headgasket will work fine at 400 horsepower if you know how to tune the engine.

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cousin speed

anyone know what could cause an s14 not to have idle. It has been rebuilt with wiseco pistons,manely rods. Standerd turbo and injectors. Front mount inter cooler,after market maf and exhaust system. When i unplug the muf it idles but can not rev it cuts off. When i connect the maf it revs and hold idle for a few seconds and goes off. If i rev engine before it cuts of on idle it misfires aa little and then picks up. I adjust the fuel pressure regulator almost closing the return completely for it to rev without a misfire. Could this be the fuel pump or somthing else? If it is,what fuel pump can i use cause the walbro 250lph doesnt work. Please any help

240boi115

act,white bunny,exxedy, or anything with high hp/ torque ratings how much you looking to spend?
yes
the OP is looking ot get at 400hp bro. not a 700hp beast. lol although i do agree with you on what you stated. a lont of people over look the suspension and brake department in their builds....you will need good brakes to stop a 700hp monster. (i just keep getting this image of the oem ones exploding trying to stop something that powerful )

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