rps13drfter

ok so i just read about 2 hours worth of searching the forums to find some things out that could be my problem but none seemed to be the same problems im having.

Engine/Setup: Red sr20det
Greddy RS bov
Apexi Gt Exhaust
no tuning of any kind, running w/ no o2 sensor

Symtoms: i started my car this morning like normal drive it down the main street everything running same as usual as i merged on the highway my car started to hesitate, buck, loss tons of power, looked at my boost to see its was at 1-2 let off and it was as loud as it would be at 8psi. Pull over checked the vacuums, IC pipes couplings nothing found, got back on the highway going much slower (grandma accelerating) no problems untill i give it that lil bit of gas then all symtoms come back. Seems like im running super rich as well

Stuff i tried already: Checking my spark plugs to find white residue on all four no black, going outside right now to check the maf/tps/coilpack


If anyone had these exact same problems and fixed please let me know or just anything i might be missing to check.

steve shadows

Oh No! is right

did you search...Like at all?

Prolly crappy wiring job on your harness to MAF.

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rps13drfter

did you even try to read the first part of my post??? i did the wiring to the tee even used oem wires for it, and that worked fine for a year untill now so i know its not that

i just unpluged the tps and started the car and it stumbled around worse than when its pluged in (which means?) maf unpluged wouldnt allow over 2.5 rpms.

i then started the car and easily rev'ed up my rpm's all the way to about 6 grand in neutral with no problems at all then about 6500pms a mild backfire and continued to redline let off and it idled normal

steve shadows

yeah I read it. did you search for hesitate?

I mean

-maf
-tps
-cas
-timing
-vacum leak
-ic coupler
-exaust leak
-bad fuel pump
-BAD SPARK PLUG or GAP on plugs:ghey:
-ignition issue
-Bad Ground for engine to chasis.
-bad alternator and dead battery
-Screwying Wiring (even if it was blessed by Nismo gods like you say).

need more to work with here.

what plugs are in there.

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rps13drfter

The ones since i had the car ( bosh plat 2)

whats the easiest way to check the coilpacks by myself, kind of hard to look out for a spark when your the one having to start the car

TAMTANIUM

Try to get another person to help you out. Have 2 or 4 people to help you out will solve the problem faster. Are you sure all your hoses, intake pipe, intercooler pipes are all good? No exhaust leak? I'm sure it gotta be one of those above. Open your valve cover and see if all your rocker arms are still in place.

rps13drfter

i did three scans over the vacuums/IC plumbing but you know how someone can miss something so easily, i have a good exhaust leak at the gasket between elbow and DP, but that was been that way for about week, waiting on a part.

rps13drfter

ok, so checked the spark plugs, which had white tips, residue on bumper which brings me to do a compression check....

JDMClifford

recheck all of the intercooler piping, sounds like its the piping, take ita ll of and put ot back on. you might not se it but it could be disconnected.

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nrg

it's boost leak or your wire harness is grounding out somewhere.

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rps13drfter

where would be some frequently found ground out problems? and how would an boost leak show me residue on my bumper?

georgesal

it can also be a fuel cut off, probably fomr my experience i would check your fuel pressure at idle and while driving it, with a long hose and a pressure guage t'd off after the fuel filter

rps13drfter

where could the fuel cut-off be coming from though? i have the walbro fuel pump in there. does it really matter what kind of gauge i use or should i just go ahead and pick up the fuel pressure gauge? could it be something with my fuel filter?

also does anyone know how to or what materials i need to make that homemade pipe to fit on my intake system to pressurize the system with a compressor?

rps13drfter

ok just ran the compression and the results are......1:150 2: 155 3: 150 4: 155


i found some minor leaks but shouldnt be causing that much problem, cuz i know i had one bigger than those with little problems so i still have my problem any help appreciated, like most of you on here, its my daily

rps13drfter

ok just fixed the gasket on the dp and elbow started the car and sounds a lot worse. what could be causing that?

240mike

put an o2 sensor that you know is good in it.. so it doesnt run rich all the time..
i dont know why you wouldnt run one?!?

check the filter on your maf... if air doesnt flow the same all the way around it ,, it will run shity.. mainly at idle though..

make sure that none of your injectors are leaking..

start with a fuel pressure gauge..
start the car..
turn it off..
see if the pressure drops..
if the pressure bleeds off..
it is eather a bad injector or fuel pressure regulator..

if not pm me..

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mods.... i could write a book on it..

240mike

mine was doing that too..

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cocaine white s13 (also known as primer)
mods.... i could write a book on it..

nis240sxsan

my friend had the same problem, he had a boost leak though...

rps13drfter

well the main reason i didnt have one was when i got the car the o2 wire was never extended so i did that a lil while ago to see if the 02 sensor in it was good or bad but it was bad so just disconected it, but it ran fine but now im kicking myself in the ass for not getting a new one.


as for nis240sx man where was your friends boost leak, i been searching for any other ones, but could be missing one cuz im not using to big of a compressor being im in a shit hole of a town for school

longdy

well i have the same problem right now just get the vac tester and see if it holds boost at all and on top of that will the vac machine is on go around to all the cuplings, vacuum and whatever else that has to do with boost pressure and spray it with a bottle of water and soap mixture and it an area starts to bubble that means there is a boost leak right there... hope that helps if not AIM me at counterlick

laters

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longdy

and dont worry i am having the same problem!!!...lol thats what i did and the results was that the BOV was leaking (i dont know why it would either????) and there was a cupling that was ripped...lol i dont know how all of these things happen... so try that and post results.....

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rps13drfter

well i only have access to a lil crappy dc compressor at the moment and i cant get it to push over 5 lbs.....wtf so i will still try the soapy water thing when i get back from school.

rps13drfter

i actually found the old terminal (i guess the last person who owned the car when they did they relocation didnt feel like doing it right) touching bare to the cold pipe so i taped that up, but still no go

rps13drfter

:::UPDATE:::

just started the car and tested the coilpacks, car run different each time i pulled out 1-4 coilpacks. but before i did that the car seemed to have a bit worse idle, and seems to be running richer

nrg

check your timing. pull the tps, check timing when it's under 950rpm. should be at 15degree (2nd line from the right). check for engine codes too. check couplin for cracks.

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rps13drfter

im trying to get my hands on a timing gun right now, and i checked the couplins for cracks today, came out all good (and that was under pressure)

also im worried about the top of the spark plug being white, unlike the silver color they normally are

rps13drfter

is anyone else running bosch plat 2 on there sr's? seems to be some air gap crap, does this mean there is not set gap? if there is what the hell is it? what might be the easist way for me to test the spark plugs? im by myself in crap town of morgan city.

im also thinking about removing the injectors to check to see if they are working fine, but if i take them out ill need to change the o-ring correct? so when i got to parts store which i ask for the upper or lower and 96 300z tt?

nrg

You should get rid of those bosch plugs. You need to run NGK plugs. NGK BKR7E part #6097. they're already pre gaped to .028. If you want iridiums of those same plugs, get the BKR7E-IX

1.99 each at napa auto parts. autozone, kargen, nor pepboys doesnt carry these.

iridium: http://phase2motorsports.stores.yaho...irrasppln.html

I have a feeling you bought plugs for Sentra SE-R (sr20de) which are wrong for RWD sr20det. Those stock plugs are step 5 heat range and pre gapped to .035. stock rwd sr20det are step 6 with .028, but step 7 with .028 is what MOST of us run.

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rps13drfter

ok i will go ahead and try the reg ngk's ill try to get them from napa and hopefully they might help, but how much are the iridiums recommended

rps13drfter

:UPDATE:

put the ngk's in from napa run much better than before, but is still giving me some small low pops, and when i drive it has small backfires and some minor symtoms of before but in such a low rpm more in higher rpms but in all is running better.

still dont have a good O2 sensor in.......could this be causing me running rich

still havnt checked time.....maybe timing a bit off?

any help appreciated