Rittmeister

Just picked up a PFC from the good folks at RT Tuning; installed it yesterday.

Setup is: redtop DET, stock turbo/boost/fuel/air, except for big intercooler, big exhaust, and Walbro fuel pump.

The car ran great with the stock ECU. With the PFC it starts up, idles, and drives fine EXCEPT that it bogs on tip-in when starting from a stop. If I rev the engine out to 4-5k before shifting, no problem, but if the revs drop below 2k or so it also bogs on shifting.

Here's the weird part - the problem completely disappears when the car warms up past 50*C or so. I mean completely, not even a hint of the issue.

-Timing is dead on where it should be.
-Car doesn't leak vacuum or boost that I can tell - holds vac on the gauge perfectly. Admittedly I haven't built a pressure tester to check this but as it ran fine with the stock ECU I see no reason to believe there's a problem.
-Plugs, TPS, fuel pressure, other stuff is fine.

Basically, has anyone had a similar issue, and if so what was the solution? Is the PFC an adaptive ECU like the stock ECU?

Also, on a side note: the PFC doesn't have a provision for mounting the stock ECU bracket. How are you guys securing the ECU itself inside the kick panel?

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E36 M3 - new project
1990 240SR - screamed down the road

S14DB

Did you let it idle for 10mins then turn on the AC and rear window defroster for 10mins before driving it the first time?

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Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact

silentstyle1

Ok I know nothing about the PFC but i figured i'd check this out anyway, cause i like learning new stuff.

But I kinda wanna know what that will do.... S14DB I know you know your stuff. Just want to clear up that I'm not trying to start anything or argue with you, just really curious as to how that would have an effect on his situation.

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Rittmeister

Same question. No offense, but is this a joke?

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E36 M3 - new project
1990 240SR - screamed down the road

S14DB

When you first start up the car the PFC hunts for a smooth idle. If it doesn't have time to do it. It will be touchy going on and off idle.

Page 10:
http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/13.pdf

Also, check your coolant temp sensor.

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Rittmeister

OK, I'll try it tomorrow.

Edit: you think this will work on my Nissan, even though those directions on Apexi's website say they're for a Honda unit? I suppose it can't hurt...

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E36 M3 - new project
1990 240SR - screamed down the road

tmsilvia

s14DB is right, let it self learn idle for about 30mins, check ur water temp sensor. is ur ign timing 15 degree?

S14DB

The CB's at Apexi only translated that one manual. The PowerFC's are the same except for the pinout and the base map.

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GabeS14

may seam liike a dumb question, but what if you dont have defroster or AC? lol
just letting it sit for 10 mins should be good?

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E92 M3 19" wheels for sale///JWT Cams and Springs +30whp for sale... cheap.

S14DB

If you don't have any accessory's then 10mins should be fine. You can also turn on the headlights for 10mins to put a load on. ECU just wants to see how the engine reacts under accessory load. Defroster puts the most load.

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Sleepy240

The PFC gets confused because of the fluctuation in idle when the AC/Defrosters etc are turned on. By letting it hunt the idle with these on/off it learns and corrects for these. If you don't have AC/Defroster then it wont matter since they will never be on

EDIT: S14DB beat me too it =(

GabeS14

I actually put my Jim Wolfe Ecu back in for now, I have been putting off the day to change it back to the power fc and start playing around with the settings..

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E92 M3 19" wheels for sale///JWT Cams and Springs +30whp for sale... cheap.

Rittmeister

CTS is fine.

I tried the defrost/AC procedure, and... it didn't help. Steve Shadows seems to think I need a base map... I'm not sure what to do.

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E36 M3 - new project
1990 240SR - screamed down the road

Mirage

Friend of mine velcro'ed his into the stock bracket, I didn't have a stock bracket in mine so its just stuff up in there.

If everything else is good with your motor, it might be the water temp correction. Go to settings, water temp, and check to see how much more fuel its putting in the 50* C area, try to drop it down some. I can't remember the specific increments, but I think its 30, 50, 80. It might just be putting in enough to make it stumble.

Boost leaks can be tricky bastids though, i'd still recommend testing for them even if it ran fine on the stock ecu. They can pop up in the strangest of places you wouldn't even think of, and while they might be small enough to not effect much, you get a couple of them and it will.

I'd also suggest getting the car tuned if you aren't planning on throwing a bunch of mods at it soon. Good tuner will clean up the entire map and make it much better running.

steve shadows

For PFC

Engine must be at 80 Deg C for timing mode.
No need to pull the TPS on PFC cars.

Double check TPS voltages too

Your base map settings may be mis-configured for your setup as well.

If you are interested I offer base map/support services for a one time fee of 85 paypal.

Either way I would keep this in mind for timing mode.

Is this Kent?

If everything hardware related is fine - then it is probably setting based, as we spoke about over email.

It's not that you NEED a base map per say, but the settings I re-configure and include in my setup directions with the new base map might clear this up right off the bat , irregardless of the actual map /cell by cell by cell settings

I will offer you as much support/help and maps I can remotely per my offering to board members.

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