hanzbrady

To be fair I called trading the Audi for the RB silly

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Corbic

I'm back.

So you have an old tired RB and want to dump a crap ton of money into it to make 500whp.

My friend made 400whp on his before he parted it out.

RB25det
Manifold (high quality, he paid $1,200 I forget the brand)
Borg Warner
ISIS Intake Manifold
Tial Wastegate
Tial BOV
1000cc ID
3.5" Exhaust
FMIC (high quality, cast ends, I forget the brand)
Z32 ECU
Fuel Pump
AEM FPR
AEM AFR
AEM Boost Gauge
Comp Clutch

He ultimately parted it out to move forwarded with a 2JZ swap.

As already mentioned, the RB25 has inherent oiling flaws. You are looking at doing a external oil pump to get around that, which is big bucks. The list goes on.

As for your list. You have Eagles on the list, which suck. Manley rods are a lot better. You are not going to want to run an OEM headgasket. Topfeed injectors are $600, not $350 (sounds like shitty re-drills). You don't need adjustable cam gears for poncams and as stated, don't run eBay cam gears.

As mentioned, machine work is going to be $900. You don't need ARP Main studs.

Either way, my suggestion? I'm lazy, I'd just buy an engine for $900, scrap the trans, sell off the extra parts and boost to 350whp and call it a day. You could sell the current engine for $300 or keep it as a spare.

RB25GUY

Listen the oil issue is with the care taker of the motor crank collar that crankshaft, 3qt accusump, a oil cooler and relocation kit, gtr oil pan easy to convert to rwd tomei baffle kit or greddy kit (GTR pan only baffle kits) head drain kit (not reallyneeded but it is piece of mind) basically left for you

I daily drove a 450whp 25 that had a greddy HG and greddy belt as far as work motor was internally stock drove it for 2 Years almost everyday, I ended up blowing that motor, and we took it apart and oil starvation was not the issue, tired piston let go and dropped the wrist pin and made a nice hole... Since you don't have stock internals you will be fine... if you don't have a built solid lifter built head don't rev past 7200... the stock lifter float above 7500.... RBs are stout if you know how to time them correctly, wire them correctly, and maintaince correctly.. .

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Corbic

Was this translated by babble fish??

RB25GUY

No, I was actually multi-tasking when i wrote that. I tend to forget you and a selected handful here are English/Journalism majors....



Basically, Gave him the most irrelevant "suggestion" ever. Cool, your bro parted out and went 2jz. What does that have to do with his question? Did you just wanna type out a parts list to be cool? Even better have you ever owned a RB before? Dont need ARP main studs, really?? please lets hear your answer. Other than the manley rod comment, ebay cam gears, and your somewhat accurate top feed injector comment, Everything else was pointless. By the way,You Are not buying a decent set of top feed injs ID, SARD, etc with 600 bucks.

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Corbic

Yes, only journalism majors want to be able to understand what the fuck you are saying. Get the fuck out of here with that bullshit. You posted up a completely unreadable rant.


And again, you say my post was worthless but then highlight how I was correct and gave good advice. Change your tampon please.

The parts list was to show how easy it was to make 400whp, reliably, all day without dropping $5k to build the engine.

Does the OP even know why he wants "500whp", or was that the first number he thought of that sounded cool and really fast?

You want reliable and cheap, keep it simply. Just buy a new long block and move one with life.

He never even explains what "tired" means, is it low on compression? Is it knocking? Burning oil or coolant? Or does it just have a shitty tune?

The point of mentioning my friends build was he was in the same position the OP is in. Had a stronger running 400whp RB, wanted more and after doing all the research realized the RB sucks ass and moved over to the 2JZ. Better design, more displacement, more support. (He's also shooting for 1200whp)

As for have I owned one? Fuck no. I made the mistake of owning a SR and rectified that by switching to a factory built 4.6L DOHC V8 with a 2.2L twin-screw super charger running 20psi.

Couldn't be happier.


Rather then going "I want XXX whp", people should be saying "I can realistically spend $XXXX, what does that buy".

Based on what the OP already seems to have, he could easily get 350-400whp for $2k. If he pops his motor, swap it out for a grand.

Sure beats wasting $5-6k for a built motor making 500whp, popping that and having to spend another $2-3k.

RB25GUY

Oh man i didnt use a few periods marks and didnt double space shoot me, I'm not writing a God damn paper Professor, Still didn't give us a reason why not to use ARP main studs,

You stated what everyone else stated before. At least i said things people forgot to mention (minus the crank collar). Awesome you know how to read and copy and put things into your own words.

Here, for you, since you are a good lil bub.

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jared420sx

To the guy who started this rb25 checklist thread. Buy a bmw.

hanzbrady

I do own one of those, and I'd highly recommend staying away from them. Mine burns 1 quart of oil per thousand miles and needs a $800 clutch job. A bit outrageous for a car from 2001 with 165k

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jared420sx

Shhhhhhhhh

Corbic

How is a $800 clutch job outrageous?

I show an OEM Sachs clutch kit is only $215 on Rockauto.com

So, $600 in labor? $100 an hour, 6 hour job? Seems reasonable. Do it yourself....

Did you look into why it's burning oil? Is the valve cover gasket leaking? At 165k miles any brand of car is going to need a crap ton of maintenance.

Corbic

Can someone condensed and translate please?

Cliffs?

hanzbrady

Well my flywheel exploded (yay dual-mass) so it needs a full single-mass conversion and between work, a "racecar", and the rest of life I cant be bothered to strip my own E-torx bolts on my BMW, I'd much rather give it to someone else to piss them off.

And yea, I've replaced every gasket I can, it's BMW's piss poor oil control ring design and its even worse PCV system.

My 330 will continue to sit until I get bored and decide to do something cool and non BMW powered with it. It's going to be replaced by a Fiesta ST or an Ecoboost stang (cool turbo sounds and a warranty are beginning to appeal to me in my quarter-life crisis).

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ADIDASilvias

An external oil pump is not needed. Block off one of the galley inlets, restrict the other, insert pressure equalizer drain into back of the head and route the line to the sump. Not a huge issue, and isn't 'required' either. Most RBs don't even see the oil stagnation issue unless they track the car in some manner. It's more an insurance thing than a requirement.

The crank snout issue is not a huge ordeal either. Get it done and forget about it.

The stock head gasket is not a weak link. If he is having the head decked then a metal HG makes sense. Otherwise, the stock gasket is MUCH more forgiving of slightly uneven surfaces. With ARP head studs and stock HG he might be at risk of blowing a head gasket somewhere north of 750hp, but not at all likely at 500.

I'm trying to keep it civil here. A lot of what is thrown around regarding the shortcomings of the RB series is overblown and/or easily compensated for with a few mods.

RB25GUY

Cool story bro, how can "someone condensed", if its past tense meaning it already happened......

Cliffs bro, Cliffs.....

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RB25GUY

dude he doesnt even know what hes talking about, dont waste your time with whatever he says.

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pacotaco345

LOL
wordsandthings

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Corbic

Poor Mans LS swap!!

Aka Ford 302/5.0!!

Grab an explorer pull out for $300, a T5 for $150, $1,500 in go fast parts, $500 into the swap.... boom, $2,500 and you have a 300whp, 300 ft/tq, V8 rumble in a good handling BMW.

Truly a Poor mans E90 M3!

Fits good too!

Corbic

Grammar Nazi Lulwtf dis ain't skool bro!!! Ha ha jernalizt!

jared420sx

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smoked240

TUNE. TUNE. TUNE. TUNE.
Your engine is only going to run as good as its been tuned. Spend your most money on tuning and it will save your ass in the end. I trailer my car 4 hours one way and pay out the ass for a dyno tune but my bro Shane is a genius, plus he's aem and e85 certified, so I toss him an extra Bennie to get an even better tune. I'm also right there watching, helping.

Good info and useless nuts like every rb25 thread hah.
I've owned and repaired my rb25 for the past 7 years. Not just nutted online to it so, from first hand I can say owning an RB has been interesting. I'll be pushing 500hp with rb26 internals and a stock headgasket. Tuned on e85 and 91.

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Corbic

Don't worry, I'll still pass. It's an inferior design and your still dumping money into machine time that wouldn't be needed on a 2JZ.








But if you are sending a block out for machine work, having the crank collar machined, throwing in rods, pistons and studs.... why would you not spend the extra $50 on an upgraded head-gasket?

jared420sx

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smoked240

Well of course it's going to be inferior..the jz was highly developed with racing in mind so they all have been set up from factory to handle more power stock. I'm sure if Nissan spent the R&D like Toyota did, the RB would be on par if not better.

HG is a lil more than $50 but I understand your point. If mine was track only or highly used on the track I would have went MHG but since it's my dd and capping it at 500hp I trust the stock HG.

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Corbic

OP listed an OEM HG for $140.

A Cometic is $175, Tomei $162, and Apexi $370. The difference is where I was getting $50.

I'd throw the Tomei in and call it a day.

smoked240

I guess I got a deal on my HG didn't even pay half that. Tomei is the one I'll be going with when I add forged internals one day.

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STR8 H8N

RB25GUY

God you're dumber than i thought

1996 Explorer
210 HP
280 Torque

1990 mustang
225 HP
300 Torgue


what the fuck you talking about 300hp?? maybe with some valve springs and a hot cam. yea they share the 93-95 cobra heads and intake mani but you arent just taking a explorer 302 dropping it in and making 300whp even with 1500 you will need more...

damn arent you a mustang guy and you cant even give good advice on those either

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RB25GUY

"To get 300whp out of an actual 302, you need a good set of heads (AFR165s/185s, Trick flow Twisted Wedge, Holly Systemax), a good intake (take your pick), the right cam, and an aftermarket exhaust system. Or you could go the forced induction route with a supercharger, nitrous, or turbo. Don't go for a crate motor, you can build it for less, and you probably won't make 300rwhp with 'em.

I've got a custom built 302 with the starter and all the bolt-ons for 2,500"

this guy bought one for 2500 just the motor made 320whp im sure it cost the person who built it spent more than 2500.

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RB25GUY

"wow 300-350 no p/a

i had cobra intake
24lb injectors
tfs 1 cam
gt40p heads

with a c4

and only dyno'd

212 to the wheels"

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