Advice on a rb25det build
 

I recently traded an a4 for a s13 rb25det only to find a bunch of issues and possible a tired rb25.. id rather just build it once and not waste time t/s all the issues. at least I have a solid foundation right... this is a list of parts I plan to buy to make my goal id like 500whp daily.. not that ill be dailying it but I want that kind of reliability. PLEASE feel free to share ur experience with anything I'm putting down or if u have advice id really appreciate it because I'm new to the Nissan world.

parts list so far:
eagle H-beam rods $500.00 Wiseco AP pistons 86.25mm 8.39:1 $650
ALC main bearings $100
Tomei PonCam Type-B $550
ARP head/main bolts $320
AEM water/meth $450
oem head gasket with gasket kit $140
adjustable cam gears Ebay $70
Apex power fc $1000
HKS timing belt $200
Intake manifold with fuel rail (mine is ugly) $320
Injectors 850cc $350
Tuning $300
machine block $250

Please let me know if I left anything out gonna order all this pretty soon just want all my ducks in a row. list of things I already have (aem progressive fuel regulator, innovate wide band, aem oil pressure gauge, aem boost gauge, 2 walbro 255s, t3 top exhaust manifold w/38mm external wg. I have a cheap cx racing gt35 I might try first but if it doesn't work or when it blows ill do a BorgWarner trying to keep the cost down and still make a decent build. thanks!

Update! machine work done 5 angle valve job port and polish bore and hone .10 over and i decided on the cp pistons and manley h beams. Apr head studs and cometic mls gh welded all my holes in the bay and started grinding them.

http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...pstgu4tfz0.jpg

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http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psqdzhr5dy.jpg

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Tuning
Machine work
Assembly

have a friend that owns a tuning shop here in town so $300 for dyno tuning and another friend and I are gonna assemble it. I have never had machine work done avg cost?

Couple hundy
Also injectors

Oh ya! forgot that

I'd recommend against getting ebay chinese cam gears, nice way to drop a valve



http://i.imgur.com/xfqdxcQ.jpg

Ill be changing that lol

Rod bearings
Valve springs
PCV/catch can system
Oil galley restrictors
Extended crank collar
N1 oil pump or spool gears
Have the machine shop enlarge the oil return passages in the block
Radiator fan setup strong enough to handle additional heatload

Is that really necessary for just 500hp? Thought u could do 500 on almost stock just bad ring landings? Also i have a mishimoto radiator with 2 electric fans already

How many lbs are you trying to run to achieve 5xx. Have you researched HP numbers with those comp Pistons? sounds like you'll be running a high amount of boost to make those numbers. Maybe invest in some higher como pistons?

If your going to run 850s forget water meth injection and go for E85 if avail and run some 1200cc injectors if it will be come avail in your area

tyler why is your username yellow

Its not really avalible and what is is very expensive ill look in to higher comp pistons id like to run maybe 20-25 lbs my friends evo makes. 675whp on 29.5psi out of a 2.0 lol so 500 out of 20-25 should be achievable

Cost to fully machine an RB ready for assembly is in the $700-900 range. Assuming you actually do everything right.

Also you can't just throw more compression and boost at engine with shitty fuel and expect "reliability" I've seen so many customers melt forged pistons because they were hard headed and wanted to try to make a million horsepower on 93 pump gas. Pump gas is inconsistent garbage so if you have to run it, buy the corresponding parts, tune accordingly and save yourself another rebuild. As for water meth because I saw that was mentioned as well, save your money it's a band aid, if you want to make power buy fuel that let's you VP sells E85 by the drum and will deliver to your house.

I made 640hp on atp kit on the mr2 with pump gas and 50/50 meth on a 2.0.. I don't like e85 never had uses more fuel cost more the only advantage is cooler temps and more boost. race gas 100oct would be just as good I'm sure, and the same price seen people make 500 on the rb with pump gas stock internals just fuel upgrade, turbo and remap, and bolt ons. the only real reason I'm building it cause it wouldn't last long at 500 hp. and there is no way I'm melting a piston at 11.2-11.8 afr if u melt a piston u don't have a wideband or u don't care enough to pay attention to knock and water meth is awesome I just use it as icing on the cake... used for much more than just a few oct boost. steam engine affect, way lower intake temps.

2JZ Stock bottom end. /thread.

This guy gets it.

ur saying that a rb is not capable of reliable numbers like the 2jz is? I don't want 800 1000 or even 1500 like a lot of 2jz make I want to keep it Nissan. if I were conserned with numbers only id do a 5.3 lm7 gap the rings t56 tranny and borg warner t6 turbo and make 1000hp easy being done all over the nation for cheap.

Well the RB sucks for reliability and parts availability, it's also more complicated than a JZ, the RB also has a pitiful stroke, this list could go on and on. The reality is that if you're stateside and not made of money RB loses to JZ

it would cost me the same price to buy a 1jz for $4000 would a rb26 crank be much better then cause I found on for 150 locally with a spare tranny for 150 I really don't want to start with a new motor the mounts were like 1500 alone

ZzzZzz I had someone that wanted to trade me for one with a sr20 as well should have done that I just like the way the inline 6 sounds and no replacement for displacement

Nate - Pay no attention to hanzbrady, he's full of shit. He thinks he knows everything - cause, cause MAZWORX!!!!

The RB is a great platform, and unless you are pushing 750+whp you can make them reliable, and even then, if you build them right they can be beasts pushing big numbers. The biggest issues are the oiling problems, and cooling, both of which can be solved fairly easily. The ring lands on the RB25 S1/S2 like to crap out beyond 450hp, but you are planning on taking care of that.

1JZ/2JZ are about the same cost wise as an RB swap (trust me, I have looked into this in MAJOR detail). Parts availability for the RB in the states has increased 10 fold in the past 10 years, and it isn't difficult to find mostly everything these days.

Since you already have the RB25, it will be cheaper to build it like you said than start from scratch.

There's one of these guys in every Nissan forum - Just put a 1J/2J in it brah, never mind it's a Nissan, Toyota rulez!

Keep it Nissan!

FYI, the 1J/2J are both great engines, no hate on them, and I respect people's decision to swap them, but I think the point of this thread was 'help me build my RB25det' not 'help me decide to swap another engine into a vehicle I already have a great engine in' - right?

edit: Also, I'm not about to get into a pissing match regarding engine choice, I'm just reassuring the OP that the RB is worth his time and money.

I'd just like to point out that I didn't say put a JZ in, I simply explained why the JZ was better to extend on to another users post.

I'd just like to point out for the record:

RB25det - Bore 86mm Stroke: 71.7mm
1JZ-GTE - Bore 86mm Stroke: 71.5mm
2JZ-GTE - Bore 86mm Stroke: 86mm

So the stroke of the RB25 is no more pitiful than the 1JZ.

To the OP - I'd throw a good set of LS/LQ coil packs and wires in the list. If you feel the engine is a bit tired, the coils likely need replaced and the LS/LQ coils have amazing spark energy.

Just because I feel you missed my comparison

I was comparing the RB25 to the 2JZ which as you did state above are a world of difference, maybe you also missed where I did answer some of the OP's original questions about pricing on the RB, I didn't come here on a JZ high horse so please stop putting me on one.

The synopsis of all my posts would be that the RB family in a real world application isn't the most reliable of engines, and that if the OP was looking for a deadly reliable set-up the JZ family is a far more viable platform due to not being flawed from the get go such as the oiling issues that the RB's have. If the OP chooses to stay RB I'd recommend all of the fancy RB oil mods he can find.

But hey what do I know I'm just another guy on the internet.

thanks finally someone that doesn't hate this motor I have always wanted one of these engines. I was also planning to do that I was gonna go to the junk yard and pull them out of a wrecked truck so I could cut the wiring harness as far back as I could to make the wiring easier. I read that the oil issues on the head was more so on the rb26 head and not as much on the 25 and to just vent the pan is that correct? it seems like a good motor swap was done a year ago with 30k miles on it compression seems low at 90 per cylinder. all even though. I am a mile high this is the reason for my build and I'm getting a hard sputter at around 12.5 psi might be fuel cut. wide band is spikes during this sputter.

Here is the best explanation regarding the oiling issue:

https://mrbizzle.wordpress.com/2010/02/24/84/

Do some internet searching to determine the best route for your situation, not everything on that page is required, just recommended to address the entire situation.

Some more info here as well as in the link to the Skylines Forum:

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/tech...wers-here.html

^#1,2, and 3 in the list there is what I'd recommend unless you are circuit racing or drifting.

Unless you are having machine work done on the head, in which case you might as well have #4 and #5 done in the process.

Tag this nonsense for later...

why is it nonsense? why does this seem impossible... it seems no matter what build I ever do when I built the 3sget in the mr2 everyone said to swap it why? turned out amazing... then I mod a 06 audi 2.0tfsi everyone says swap it that motor is weak. well it took 27 psi for 30K miles till I traded it... if I posted a thread about sr20 swap everyone would probably tell me to get a rb25 and when I get a rb they will say 2jz if I have a 2jz then it will be a LS swap...:confused: