Finished carbon dash

[driftstyre]

I finished my dash. It sucked doing but the end product came out ok. I couldn't get the bag to seal completely so there are a couple of voids in obvious areas. It weighs under 4 lbs and is very flexible so it should be easier to get in behind the cage. I will probably have to take an inch or so off of each side but it will hold my guages and thats pretty much its purpose.
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_done.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_done2.jpg

[exitspeed]

Wow, that's pretty cool. Hows the fitment? Or haven't you hd a chance to check yet?

[SoSideways]

That looks sweet man, definitely awesome that it came out that good on first try (for that dash that is).

And under 4 pounds? Damn, that's awesome!

[jdms14_silvia]

that is pretty dope man.. it looks like theres a huge crack down the middle.. is that one of the voids you were talking about.. you should take some pix of it in the car..

[Ritz S14]

Very intresting I must say.

How about a step by step procedure?

[C2AUTOSPL]

That looks pretty good, I wish I could do stuff like that.

[RSP13-Sideways]

Bill looks good.

Looks just like the double-sided carbon fiber hood I made for myself. I had to sort of "Frankenstein" some the pieces together for my hood since I ran out of room and wasn't using a vacuum, just handlaid the carbon. I was thinking of doing the dash.

Did you make a splash of your dash with fiberglass or did you actually create a mold? I was about to start manufacturing my carbon dash this week as well. This time I'm going to use my works vacuum though. :)

[IES13]

That is freakin awesome! Can't wait to see how it looks once its in the car!

[driftstyre]

I actually created a mold which took about 100 hours from start to finish. I'd write a step by step process but there are a bunch of great articles out about doing stuff like this. Learning "how" to do composite work is easy, experience is so key and I have none until this piece. I am excited to make some more stuff later (next winter maybe) but it is very time consuming and expensive. The other half of Dent Sport took the plunge with some carbon RC51 parts a few years ago and gave me some insight as well. A friend of ours lent me his vacuum pump, gel coat gun and resin collector.

[s14xman]

nice job for your first try! I think that is the same bagging material that we use at my work! what was your bleeder schedual like? did you use an oven to cook it or just wait a long time?

[RSP13-Sideways]

I actually created a mold which took about 100 hours from start to finish. I'd write a step by step process but there are a bunch of great articles out about doing stuff like this. Learning "how" to do composite work is easy, experience is so key and I have none until this piece. I am excited to make some more stuff later (next winter maybe) but it is very time consuming and expensive. The other half of Dent Sport took the plunge with some carbon RC51 parts a few years ago and gave me some insight as well. A friend of ours lent me his vacuum pump, gel coat gun and resin collector.

Well the good news is that you've created a mold man! That's the hardest part haha, after that you just have to make sure it's clean and waxed and pump parts out. The more parts you lay up the more experience you will gain. I'm pretty good with manufacturing composites, my work does fiberglass aerodynamics, carbon fiber and urethane so I have access to all those machines. Good luck buddy!

[FaLKoN240]

Umm. . .what about that big crack?

[TougeRacing]

i thought it was just a garbage bag laying on the ground at first hahahahhahah, but nice work doin it yourself.

[chmercer]

thats not a big crack. thats where the sheets of carbon run together.

what kind of resin did you use?

[Pank]

that is awesome, i would love to see a step by step process if you have the time

[NemeGuero]

thats not a big crack. thats where the sheets of carbon run together.

what kind of resin did you use?

The one across the would be SRS? That doesn't look like 2 sheets running together.. that looks like a slit in one sheet.

Nice job for a first try. Keep at it, it'll only get better.

[Sean1978]

I don't know why there aren't any companies making one for the USDM 240SX yet, I just want to replace my cracked dash with something new that isin't going to crack next month like used replacement dash....

[driftstyre]

What looks like a crack in the middle is in fact where the two pieces of carbon meet , one overlapping the other. The top half of the dash will be flocked for anti-glare so there won't be too much showing.

[reefer1114]

pic installed plz...how long did it take you? props!

[NemeGuero]

What looks like a crack in the middle is in fact where the two pieces of carbon meet , one overlapping the other. The top half of the dash will be flocked for anti-glare so there won't be too much showing.

Yes, but not the part over the passenger side. 2 weaves aren't meeting there, that looks like a cut.

[FallbrookS13]

thats awesome. id paint it black if i had one. how much would you charge to make another one?

[RSP13-Sideways]

thats awesome. id paint it black if i had one. how much would you charge to make another one?

Hehehehe I knew that was coming. You would have to see the product in person before thinking of buying one. My 240SX CF hood was great except the carbon had to be painted because there were overlapping carbon pieces and it was my first carbon fiber piece manufactured so it looked like a frankenstein hood.

Perhaps if driftstyre was kind enough to give us more upclose shots we could see the quality :) but judging from the pictures already provided it's really a "beginners" manufactured dash...like driftstyre said, this was his first time messin' with anykind of composite.

[kY.gordon]

props for you... whats ur next peice your making?

[nigel1]

very cool man. too bad you ABSOLUTLEY HAVE TO PAINT IT!!!!

just kidding do what you want. you should make some smaller parts first then go for another dash! :D

[driftstyre]

"thats awesome. id paint it black if i had one. how much would you charge to make another one?"

RSP13-Sideways is right on the money. The quality isn't anything I would want to sell but it works for me. There are plenty of defects and I already would have done a lot different in the lay up process and bagging process. I wasn't expecting it to be very good but I was expecting it to be ok. I have always had a lot of respect for people doing wet carbon work.

I fit the piece in the car and its pretty cool. I was getting nervous about how I would fit it in but after a little trimming it actually works pretty well. I'll post some pics later today.

To answer some other questions:
The epoxy is Fiberglast Epoxy Resin with their 120 minute hardener

[andrewmp6]

i love the idea hope you have good luck with it

[FallbrookS13]

well i dont really care how it looks i just want a lighter dash. im pretty sure i could clean it up and even bondo some areas if it is that bad and then paint it to make it look clean. im just interested in it cause its a stock looking dash.

[chmercer]

Yes, but not the part over the passenger side. 2 weaves aren't meeting there, that looks like a cut.

??? are you talking about the lighting glare line? that thing has no cracks

[driftshot]

Great first fun ... a couple more times and you should be pro ... I'll contact you to do my dash =D in about 5 months ---- practice !

[Sky240PWR]

I've got a idea for your next dash, when you join the two pieces of the dash, you should join it where the hump(gauge area) meets the rest of the dash, that way the "crack" won't be as noticable

[driftstyre]

I mounted the dash with dzus fasteners, test fit my guages and am in the process of fabbing up a driver's dash extention for the tach and turbo pressure. I am trying to get all the aluminum in the car finished so I can send it down the road to the annodizers. Once I recieve the flocking material from the UK I should be all set with the dash.
Coolant lines and radiator mounting are next, suspension is ongoing.

Some pics of the dash installed.

http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_above.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_side.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_drivers.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/guages.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/tach_boost.jpg

[DoriftoSlut]

Fuck everyone. That's cool as shit. I hate how everyone wants carbon fibre to be perfect and uniform weave pattern with no overlap, etc etc...

LAME! Look at an F1 car chassis before they paint it. Or the monocoque when the bodywork is removed. Its the same thing, nothing is meant to LOOK good, its meant to work, be strong, and be light. Kick ass.

Yea coat the top so that the glare from the resin won't blind you. And it's super baller that you used Epoxy resin. How many layers? Just 1 layer and epoxy resin? Awesome true motorsports right there!

[reefer1114]

looks bad ass, wish i had the funds to do such things. is that simple green? that shit smells like jager haha.

[driftstyre]

I love jager and I love simple green.

Most of the dash is one layer with a few key areas being two layers.

[sharkeyes14]

fyi unless you have something between the aluminum and carbon fiber like a rubber gasket or fiberglass the aluminum will eventually be eaten away due to galvanic reaction, because the carbon fiber is a cathode (+) and the aluminum is a anode (-). the only thing that will be left is the stainless steel rivets

[WMP]

Bill,
The dash looks great. Did you set the fasteners or grommets for the fasteners directly in the resin or are they seperate? Nice work on the mold. Cheers,
William

[SaintlyCharBoy]

bill, that looks fantastic
what are you planning for the stock gauge location?

a stack or similar cluster, or a stocker?

[bob marley]

fyi unless you have something between the aluminum and carbon fiber like a rubber gasket or fiberglass the aluminum will eventually be eaten away due to galvanic reaction, because the carbon fiber is a cathode (+) and the aluminum is a anode (-). the only thing that will be left is the stainless steel rivets

I was thinking the same thing. Anyways, that dash looks amazing.

[sharkeyes14]

oh yea dont get me wrong the dash looks great big props, just trying to save you from a big headache down the road.

[driftstyre]

I didn't know about the reaction between carbon and aluminum. Will the resin be enough to seperate them? The aluminum will be annodized, does that make a difference? Thanks for the heads up.

[driftstyre]

Sean,
The VDO guages will be extended out from the stock dash location. I'll post some photos when it is all done.

William
The fasteners are riveted through the dash and into aluminum plates underneath to distribute the load (may re-think that one thanks to Sharkeyes)

[Sean1978]

I think I'm gonna paint my car pink. That would just be fabulous!!
Oh my look at the time. Gotta go.
Toodles guys,
S

[jdm538]

i like it a lot

[SilviaDriver]

VDO for teh win!!!

[IES13]

Awwwwww sexy sh*t man! Very different! I won't want to even try doing my own carbon fiber....I fuck up on something easy like fiberglass already...=P

[tunedis95]

thats freaken awsome....i would love to try something like that....

[papa]

looks awesome..that came out really good

[IGSDann]

Great job Bill, if I get out of work early this week I'll stop by and get a close up look of it if that's cool.

[CMO]

Damn, it looks alot better installed than the first pic's you posted. I like it alot man good job.

[candyred240sx]

can u post how you made you dash or a link sum sumthin of the sort because i would liek to make a few small pices myself thanx nice work.1

[NemeGuero]

??? are you talking about the lighting glare line? that thing has no cracks

well I guess it wasn't a crack. That shit looks sexy installed. Very excellent work man.

[irritatedmax]

Bill Washburn, you're my hero. I can't wait to see this thing finished.

[Dousan_PG]

wow thats awesome. i want one too

[Jay Dee M]

That looks awesome! :rawk:

[sharkeyes14]

As far as i know, no, the epoxy is not enough to keep the carbon from reacting with the aluminum. i use either a home made rubber gasket or a thick coat of primer and sealer. as for annodizing i dont think that will change anything because it will still be negitavly charged, and annodization process does not actually "coat" the metal. im no expert just a do-it-yourselfer so if anyone else has any info please correct me.

[SaintlyCharBoy]

well, anodizing is basically dying the surface of aluminum oxide by placing the part in a charged acid bath.

the dye is trapped in "pores" in the metals surface. the whole "coating" process creates an oxide layer just a few thousandths of an inch thick (depends on process used)

while i don't know anything about a galvanic reaction, i'd put money on anodization not stopping it

[kognition]

Looks nice. I was talking with my alloy honeycomb supplier today about "galvanic corrosion". I seriously would not worry too much about it. A structural part is another story. I am addressing corrossion issues on my parts since we use alluminum honeycomb as a core material. There is a supplier that i use for very advanced fasteners you might take a look at for future projects. Their adhesive bonded studs are used on my production sunroof replacements and some newer things i am working on at the moment. But they address this issue using a 2 part adhesive. The stud plates range from Titanium to carbon fiber. And they range in use from snow boards to the Predator UAV Aircraft. Click Bond (http://www.clickbond.com)

I didn't know about the reaction between carbon and aluminum. Will the resin be enough to seperate them? The aluminum will be annodized, does that make a difference? Thanks for the heads up.

[drift freaq]

thats pretty sick. I like it a lot.

[sr240mike]

That Strut tower brace is sick as all hell and so is the cf dash.

[driftstyre]

Thanks for the kind words everyone. Its very encouraging!

http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_ext.jpg
The dash is more or less finished but I clumsily dropped my vdo tach (and the glass shattered) that has some history in a few of my cars so that was a let down. On the bright side, I found a used 80mm Stack ST200 Tach in Belgium for ~160$ so that is on its way. So, behind the wheel in the shroud will sit an 80mm tach and 80mm turbo pressure guage.

I worked on modifying the front control arms last night and tonight.

http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/front_lca_inner.jpg
I added threaded inserts to the inner side for a 5/8-1/2" rod end, strengthened them inside and outside.

http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/front_lca_house.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/front_lca_mb_house.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/front_lca_spacer.jpg
The outside balljoint was replaced with a 5/8 monoball assembly and strengthened, alot.


http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/front_lca.jpg
If someone trys to break into the shop, I'm gonna beat them with this thing!

Tabs for the tension rod and bladed sway bar links have to be added but I'll wait til they are on the car. The remaining rear arms have been modified for rod ends. I was going to make tubular ones but I really have to get the cooling system/wiring done so time is tight.


http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/rear_subframe.jpg
The rear subframe is lightened by 9 lbs. I bought these sweet subframe bushings from Ian at SPL Parts and they arrived in 3 days. They are the first 240sx parts I have bought new and are well worth the 120 odd dollars that they cost. I was going to have the machinest next door make them but for how well priced SPL's are, I couldn't pass it up.

[driftstyre]

Thanks for the kind words everyone. Its very encouraging!

http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_ext.jpg
The dash is more or less finished but I clumsily dropped my vdo tach (and the glass shattered) that has some history in my two previous street cars (except the '86 tercel I drive now), so that was a let down. On the bright side, I found a used 80mm Stack ST200 Tach in Belgium. So, behind the wheel in the shroud will sit an 80mm tach and 80mm turbo pressure guage.

I worked on modifying the front control arms last night and tonight.

http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/front_lca_inner.jpg
I added threaded inserts to the inner side for a 5/8-1/2" rod end, strengthened them inside and outside.

http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/front_lca_house.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/front_lca_mb_house.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/front_lca_spacer.jpg
The outside balljoint was replaced with a 5/8 monoball assembly and strengthened, alot.


http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/front_lca.jpg
If someone trys to break into the shop, I'm gonna beat them with this thing!

Tabs for the tension rod and bladed sway bar links have to be added but I'll wait til they are on the car. The remaining rear arms have been modified for rod ends. I was going to make tubular ones but I really have to get the cooling system/wiring done so time is tight.


http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/rear_subframe.jpg
The rear subframe is lightened by 9 lbs. I bought these sweet subframe bushings from Ian at SPL Parts and they arrived in 3 days. They are the first 240sx parts I have bought new and are well worth the 120 odd dollars that they cost. I was going to have the machinest next door make them but for how well priced SPL's are, I couldn't pass it up.

[sideview_180sx]

How did you lighten the rear subframe by 9lbs. not too mention did you increase the rigidity of it as well??

[NemeGuero]

'Cuz he's a fuckin' CHAMP!!

ha, no really though...

I too would like to know.

[McRussellPants]

Probably by cleaning all that OEM leaky diff grease off of it :keke:


That shit is gonna be hot.

[chmercer]

how did you stamp the holes for the gussets and lcas?

[driftstyre]

The subframe has cast iron weights on it for vibration dampening (I'm assuming thats what they are for). There are 2 2.5 lb ones on each of the front bushing sleeves. Then there are two smaller ones in the center flat sheet metal cross section thingy. There are a few tabs I cut off as well. The holes are made with punch & flare dies. It strengthens sheet metal a good deal, takes some weight out as well.

[chmercer]

http://www.fournierenterprises.com/equipment.htm

the thing 3/4 down the page? if im understanding correctly you just drill a 1/4 hole or whatever, and crank down on it with an impact or somthing and it cuts and flares the hole at the same time? could you suggest a good one, i just googled and that was the first thing i found.

compliments again on the car, the fab work looks impeccable. very envious of the cage and dash. thumbs up.

[1mns13]

Looks great.

[kognition]

Did you happen to weigh the subframe by chance? How much does it weigh?

[andrewmp6]

what did you cut off the subframe to lighten it up if you have any questions on cf talk to kognition he makes some very nice parts

[240Driver39]

what did you cut off the subframe to lighten it up

He already posted what he did

The subframe has cast iron weights on it for vibration dampening (I'm assuming thats what they are for). There are 2 2.5 lb ones on each of the front bushing sleeves. Then there are two smaller ones in the center flat sheet metal cross section thingy. There are a few tabs I cut off as well.

[driftstyre]

The mittler brothers punch/flare tool is the one I use for most stuff. Anything smaller than 1" and you have to punch and flare seperately.

[kognition]

If you should decide to give it another try down the road, and you are doing a wet layup, lay down some nylon peel ply over the CF before bagging. When you do get it sealed up and leak free, take a plastic body filler spatula and squeegee over the surface starting from the center of your work. Work your way out, and do this 2 or 3 times. It will remove any bubbles as well as all excess resin and the peel ply will give not only a dry carbon finish, but it will prevent wrinkles caused by the vacuum bag. You will have a uniform resin barrier over the fiber now, that can be clearcoated if desired. I see you have a resin trap, since you were doing a wet layup, you probaly did not see much resin go into the trap. The trap is really best for resin infusion. But i commend you for going with a pretty large and irregular shaped part.

///////

The quality isn't anything I would want to sell but it works for me. There are plenty of defects and I already would have done a lot different in the lay up process and bagging process. I wasn't expecting it to be very good but I was expecting it to be ok. I have always had a lot of respect for people doing wet carbon work.

I fit the piece in the car and its pretty cool. I was getting nervous about how I would fit it in but after a little trimming it actually works pretty well. I'll post some pics later today.

To answer some other questions:
The epoxy is Fiberglast Epoxy Resin with their 120 minute hardener[/QUOTE]

[MrSkinny]

^^^^
would you guys be producing one in the near future?

[m0rex]

Fking hella nice man. That would be sick to do on the dash. Whatever works you know. Being light is all that counts.

[kognition]

I don't think anyone would want to produce this part for customers because of the size and shape. Shipping and packaging would be a nightmare. It would really have to be a pick up only part.

^^^^
would you guys be producing one in the near future?

[Edgar]

That does look dope. Awsome job man!

[driftstyre]

Thanks Kognition.
I have ingested so much info about the layup/bagging process and completely forgot to squegee out the resin. I did use peel ply but as you probably remember from your first parts it doesn't go according to plan. I also made the bag too small in a few areas which caused some of the voids:duh: Here are some pics of the plug and mold.
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash3.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_mold_front.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_mold_back.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_done2.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/dash_done.jpg

The flocking materials should be here in a day or two and I'll post pics when that is done.

[NemeGuero]

Make one for an S14!!!! w00t!

[kognition]

I have ruined many parts. It can be an expensive process. Which is why i use fiberglass to test out a new mold so it wont be so painful if i screw it up.


Thanks Kognition.
I have ingested so much info about the layup/bagging process and completely forgot to squegee out the resin. I did use peel ply but as you probably remember from your first parts it doesn't go according to plan. I also made the bag too small in a few areas which caused some of the voids:duh:

[driftstyre]

The dash/drivers display is done. There are a few small holes I need to make for low oil/high water temp/shift lights right next to the red vdo boost meter. All switches will be on a panel where the factory handbrake is and the handbrake will be upright, next to the gear lever. I will finish that tomarrow as we have a batch of aluminum going out on monday for annodizing and I would like to get it all done by then. This week the coolant lines to the rear and the radiator will be mounted.

http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/guage_pod.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/stack_vdo_pod.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/stack.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/vdo_turbo.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/guages_close.jpg

[Nan Desu Ka?!]

very race-car ish. no bullshit, just engine readout. i love it. keep up the good work!

[NemeGuero]

Yah, that's some hard-core shit. I can't wait to see the finished product.

[Ritz S14]

Excuse my noobieness.. but what are the unlabled gauges reading?

[driftstyre]

Exhaust and water temps. I'll label them when they are in there for good. I'm sure I'll probably forget!

[kognition]

That $hit would look nuts if you had it annodized.

[driftstyre]

The center console is finished and the interior aluminum parts are out getting annodized. I have 4 or 5 more engine parts to annodize later but the interior is more or less done.
http://www.dentsport.com/bill240/center_switches.jpg

[Irukandji]

Wow great work.. keep the pictures coming. +1,000,000 for awesome fabrication work.

simply awesome

[NemeGuero]

That makes my pee pee hurt.

[Nan Desu Ka?!]

jesus, that is some amazzing craftsmanship. +lots and lots for you sir. I officially love this thread. /subscribes

[sideview_180sx]

Are you going to have the same seating position as people who use sparco/bride/NAMS seat rails and race buckets. Or are you moving the seat further back and extending the steering column as well. Typically how you would see in say Speed GT cars (most noticeably the CTS-Vs). Would you ever consider the AIM Sports digital readout since it has 4-6 outputs IIRC and could be mounted in an identical fashion to your 2 main guages.

[Maeda]

I haven't followed the whole way and not to be a dick but... are you going to grind down those welds smooth for your center piece and dash pod?

[SR240DET]

very nice job..... what kind of bags you using for the vacuum molding? and where do you get it?

[curbhuggerrps13]

:hitit: looks great came out better than my shiftknob :rawk:

[ALTRNTV]

^
Hahaha... a shiftknob.

That's some amazing work. I want more pics!

[driftstyre]

I got my annodizing back today. Some are going to hate the red but I've always loved the prodrive group A legacy and m3 interior look so I had to have it. The radiator is mounted and the block is out getting tanked and honed. This weeks progress has been slow as I have been working on our Impreza (hoping to get it running by tomarrow).
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/bill_int.jpg
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/nate_motor.jpg

[SoSideways]

Holy god that Impreza has some imprezive (pun intended) pipe work!!

And the red looks good man (for the 240). Definitely keep us updated!

[kognition]

Well, i think at this point nobody can accuse you of not being creative. That looks kinda copperish color (annodizing). Me likey.

/////////

I got my annodizing back today. Some are going to hate the red but I've always loved the prodrive group A legacy and m3 interior look so I had to have it. The radiator is mounted and the block is out getting tanked and honed. This weeks progress has been slow as I have been working on our Impreza (hoping to get it running by tomarrow).
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/bill_int.jpg
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/nate_motor.jpg

[S14-vietusmc]

thing always looks crowded in there...

[EH9]

Comment removed.

[NemeGuero]

Gaaaaaaaawwwddd dddaaammnn.

Whats the budgets on these cars?

[chmercer]

driftstyre what did you use to flock the dash?

[derux]

I hope you like pink because anodize fades in the sun. I had some stuff done dark blue and it is now a light blue.

[chmercer]

^ big deal its a race car. haha

[Team Rootbeer]

yea, and besides, pink is the new black man, get with it

[Nan Desu Ka?!]

What slideshow said haha.

GAWD that impreza looks just fucking amazing man, We need videos of both when they are done. Simply amazing craftsmanship. +1 billion for you sir.

[driftstyre]

"Whats the budgets on these cars?"

I'm sure the budgets are less than you think. The direct costs are small compared to the labor involved. Late nights and and lot of welding. 250+ man hours went into the nissan shell alone. 100+ of that was cleaning and stitch welding every seam on the car.

The Impreza is running and Nate will be putting 500-1000 miles on it before it goes in for tuning. We are aiming for 600+ whp and I will send some videos when it is running proper. The intake manifold / intercooler / radiator / exhaust are all one offs so it will be interesting to see how they work. The owner is an engineer and calculated the turbo system on paper, told us how large things had to be and I made them accordingly. The thing sounds absolutely retarded at idle, like a rotational idle on an antilag map but its just the AEM coping with the cams/1600 injectors.

"driftstyre what did you use to flock the dash?"
I bought the flocking materials at a fabric store for ~$30

"hope you like pink because anodize fades in the sun. I had some stuff done dark blue and it is now a light blue."
Annodizing quality varies and we have about 15 customers with our annodized parts and no fading. I have seen faded annodized pieces though and have heard heat can be the main factor in fading...who knows.

I'll have updates on the nissan soon. Here are a few pics of the very unfinished coolant system. I'll post more when it is complete.

Drivers Side Rear Duct
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/duct_rad.jpg

Thermostat/Coolant Pre-Heat In/outlet and -20 Lines.
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/thermo2.jpg

Intercooler Cold pipe and ITB plenum completed.
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/intercooler_done.jpg

[S14-vietusmc]

any test results for your crazy plenum? we got some crazy ppls on this forum

[NemeGuero]

You still didn't give me your budget! I want at least an estimate....

[driftstyre]

Total I estimate about 12K. Right now its about 7K but no ECU, engine internals or wheels/tires. This isn't counting any labor which is the reason I have done everything myself.

I'll post some info on the manifold once the engine is tuned. I will be using water injection/spray with a smaller than normal jet opposite each trumpet. Boost will be from 20-25 lbs, fuel will be VP109 Unleaded, JE stock sized pistons, Eagle rods, 260 Tomei/springs, DSG oil pump.

[infinitexsound]

vp racing fuel............ hmmm........ driftstyre, are u guys gonna set the cars up with data loggin?

[driftstyre]

Alex's SR E30 318, Nate's Impreza and my 240 are all using AEM and I'm pretty sure there is at least minimal engine data logging with that. We won't be using any external logging equipment for chassis/transmission or anything like that.

[infinitexsound]

cool ice race video...... one of the clients in tx... wanted to convert his SM car to be an ice race vehicle.. and actually being a part of it.... good stuff thanks bill!

[driftstyre]

Pics of the Coolant Outlet, Turbine Outlet and rebuilt/ported throttle bodies. The inlet ports on the Silvia/180sx head are very different from the Sunny so some porting on both sides had to be done. The lower holes on the itb's are also a little off so I had to machine new ones.
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/coolant_outlet.jpg
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/turbine_outlet.jpg
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/turbine_outlet2.jpg
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/turbine_outlet3.jpg
http://www.werksrally.com/bill240/throttle_bodies.jpg

[EchoOfSilence]

:drool:
Keep it up. I'd love to see this in action

[driftstyre]

Some progress pics of the 240 and a photo of a 4AG that we recently finished. Built for 180bhp, for a AE86 rallycar.
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/2532-2/aerial_engine.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/2535-2/front_dark.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/2538-2/swirl_pot.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/2541-2/larry_engine3.jpg

[Nachtmensch]

holy god thats a nice build up :D

[driftstyre]

Titanium/Delrin handbrake w/ .75 ap cylinder.
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/2608-2/handbrake.jpg

Coolant system is 99% done, just a few more little things and I'll post some pics.

[kognition]

Thats just insane looking. Built for abuse to be sure. :2f2f:

[SoSideways]

That e-brake setup is sick. I love it!

Keep the updates coming Bill!

[driftstyre]

The radiator pack is finished, completely sealed from the intakes to the fans. Each fan has its own relay so I can run one or two. The whole unit is self contained with a 4 pin deutsch connector running to the center console. The coolant lines are done, AN-20 stainless going to the radiator and shielded AN-20 kevlar startlite going back to the motor.
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/2619-2/radiator_done.jpg
http://www.dentsport.com/gallery/d/2622-2/under_tubing.jpg

[NemeGuero]

Wow.. stop it. You're making me sick of being impressed.

hahaha

[khmerguy618]

man this is such a nice build up! looks great!

[ALTRNTV]

Damn, nice. More pics!

[oridostyle]

sexy sexy sexy

[chmercer]

what is the benefit of running the radiator in the rear? seems like you have to take on quite a few extra pounds of coolant to do that.

[Dousan_PG]

rally shit.
wont be easily damaged as if it was in the front

i love this shit. so cool.
great work!

[kognition]

Bill, is that braided hose from Brown & Miller? What is the price per foot? They don't have prices on their site. Thanks.