View Full Version : Front Crossmember Removal
The Hamsterball
04-29-2005, 01:33 PM
Hey,
Okay, I searched for alot of different variations of "Crossmember" (Crossmember, Front Crossmember, Crossmember removal).
I found 3 threads and they were not that helpful for the problem I am having.
Okay, I am doing the front crossmember replacement on my S13. I have an engine hoist that is supporting the motor, and a full socket/ratchet/toolset. No air tools though. I also got a 10'' 1/2'' drive socket extension. This extension was what I was using until I came up with a horrible problem.
As some of you know, the crossmember is the big suspension piece that you jack your car up with, it supports the engine mounts. I have to take mine off.
Well, on the exact part of the crossmember (underneath the crossmember) where you see a thread sticking out with a stupid nut on it (it's on the part of the crossmember that has the engine mount on it), I tried to take that bolt off.
It's soo hard getting leverage on that one nut, and it's even harder for the left side engine mount nut, I tried my best to hold it straight and loosen it.
It didn't work, and the nut got kind of stripped.
Can anybody go more in-depth (than the other threads) as to how you get that damn bolt off?
I'm thinking of buying another new thread/nut from the dealership ($6) and drilling/chizelling this shit off.
Can anybody describe what exactly they had to do when swapping their crossmember?
I'm having too much trouble :*(
The Hamsterball
04-29-2005, 01:47 PM
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wOTAwNzQyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
Hey guys, here is a picture of the exact nut I am talking about. It is an extremely stupid nut. I don't know why the hell Nissan used a small-sided nut that holds 80 ft lb of torque on the engine mount.
They should have used a fatter nut so that it's easier to take off and torque down.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wOTAwNzQyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
And, as said above, the same nut for the left side engine mount is harder to get to because there is all this power steering shit in teh way.
any ideas?
kouki-gymkhana
04-29-2005, 02:49 PM
My advice is to leave that bottom nut alone and just pull the top nut on the engine mount to free up the engine from the crossmember. In other words, leave the unbolt the engine from the mounts and leave the mounts attached to the crossmember. You're pulling out the whole crossmember right? Well, once it's out of the car you'll have a better angle of attack on that nut so try it. I just pulled out my crossmember last week using this strategy and it came out in like 10mins no problem.
Sil Beer S13
04-29-2005, 03:12 PM
its a 14mm then you have 4 17mm blots on each side that hold the cross member to the chassis
The Hamsterball
04-29-2005, 03:16 PM
Yeah, that was one of my choices.
But, those 2 bolts that connect to the engine mount to the engine block are even harder to get to.
How did you get to those?
I'm guessing you took off the tie rods first thing... but, me being a 124 lb 5'8'' dude, I can't really put down that much force when i'm lying on my back under the car.
Do you have to stick a ratchet in that small area of space and use brute force or what? I'm getting fed up!
lilredstiffy
04-29-2005, 04:36 PM
That bolt is pretty easy to get to with a proper extension. If worse comes to worse, come at it from 'above' (over the steering rack) and use a pipe or something breaker-barish on a wrench. They are awkward to get to, but with the right tools it isn't so bad.
projectRDM
04-29-2005, 05:43 PM
You need a wider selection of tools.
Bottom I use either a box end wrench, doubled up, or a 14mm deepwell on a swivel.
Top nut, 14mm deepwell.
The Hamsterball
04-29-2005, 08:36 PM
You need a wider selection of tools.
Bottom I use either a box end wrench, doubled up, or a 14mm deepwell on a swivel.
Top nut, 14mm deepwell.
I know this sounds stupid, but I don't know what the heck a Box End Wrench, deepwell, or swivel are.
Right now, my dad is trying to use a wrench and rubber mallet.
IF that doesn't work, we're going to rent an air compressor with impact gun.
Can you post pictures of those 3 tools you recommended?
theicecreamdan
04-29-2005, 11:02 PM
torch it... either that or just keep going at it, that bolt will give up eventually.
The Hamsterball
04-30-2005, 12:28 AM
Well... I tried the gator thing.
Guess what, it won't even go on the stupid nut because the thread is sticking out too much from the engine mount.
I also tried wrench attached and hammer loose. Didn't work.
Tried breaker bar. Didn't work.
The bolt is pretty much almost fucked now. When you put a damn socket on it, it doesn't hold straight and tight. :fawk2:
I've given up all hope, will be leaving this damn car on jackstands for ANOTHER 3 weeks. :fawk2:
But, after that, I'll just take out my engine and swap it back in JUST TO GET THIS FRURRKING CROSSMEMBER OUT.
I'm going to take off the engine mount bolts that are bolted to the block, and put new engine mounts on.
I'm also thinking of taking out all my power steering stuff that's in the way, and killing this nut/thread off to get my crossmember out.
Whatever I do, it won't be until AFTER FINALS for another 3 weeks.
Thank you all for your help, and hopefully this thread will help others who are currently involved in...
"Teh Crossm3mber
[email protected] :madfawk: "
(If there are any other suggestions, please add on for the future benefit of Zilvia.net Members)
theicecreamdan
04-30-2005, 10:45 AM
once I had a nut like that holding the exhaust manifold on my Camaro, I just kept stripping the hell out of it by grabbing as tight as I could with a pair of vice grips, just before the nut became un-recognizable it came loose, but I wanted to torch it.
you might be able to get a wrench over the nut and then weld the wrench onto the nut? just tack weld it on and you wont have to worry about slipping,
The Hamsterball
04-30-2005, 06:30 PM
Oh, well, I appreciate the help.
I don't know wtf is up with that nut. Who the hell designs a car with a small assed nut holding 85 ft/lb of torque on such a shitty area lol.
they should have had the engine mounts have a slightly longer thread and used something like a lug nut on that same thread.
What I am going to do is remove my AIV, manifold and other emissions crap to access my driver side engine mount bolts (the 4 bolts of the engine mount that connect to the block).
For the left side, I'll have to remove my starter and get at them from under the car.
But they're held by considerably less torque so it's okay.
I'll be buying nismo engine mounts (cheaper than OEM, and i don't know of any polyurethane engine mounts for S13... i might be an idiot lol) so i don't care if i pull down my crossmember with the mounts attached.
So, for any of you guys swapping your crossmember and stripping the suspension member-to-engine mount bolt, don't worry, you guys have a 2nd chance.
Thanks for all the help guys.
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