Rokafella
05-11-2019, 06:29 PM
Hi everyone,
I've been out of the loop and need some advice as to what direction I should head with my project.
There's no way to make this short, but i'll do my best.
Specs:(valid to question)
SR20DET redtop
Stock turbo
Front Mount
3" Turbo back exhaust
walboro 255
wideband o2
I've had this setup running and driveable several times over the last 10 years with a few hiccups...
(10 years ago)
When I did the original swap the SR came with a "Mystery" Blitz tuned ECU and a damaged fuel rail.
At the time side feed setups seemed much pricier, and a friend gave me some free 550cc top feed injector's that had just been serviced, and a S-AFC 2. This friend was running high 11's in a AFC tuned DSM so I figured it would work too.
The car started, idled, and ran ok, but no matter how much we adjusted the S-AFC it always ran extremely rich. It seemed as if whenever we had it dialed in the stock ecu would come along and correct again.
(5 years ago)
Up to this point I was the only person to have ever worked on the car, but someone told me take it to this shop they knew so I did, and regret it. I got the car back missing all kinds of bolts and clips in the engine bay on parts they had been diagnosing. I replaced all the parts, and took a break from it.
(3 years ago)
I drove the car 2-3 times a month minus winter for most of this setup at stock boost but driving it to avoid boosting. While driving it one day it sounded like I popped a Intercooler pipe. Pulled over to check it and couldn't find any loose coupler's or leaks, and it would not start back up. I decided to have it towed. I compression tested it, and boost leak tested it everything was fine. At that time I wasn't in a great position financially and with so many variable's I decided to garage the car long-term.
(today)
With my financial situation in a little better place i'm finally considering doing some work. I have a budget of around $3000 right now.
After some recent diagnosing I suspect it could be a bad turbo because I noticed oil/carbon inside the hotpipe from turbo to the intercooler. the turbo spins by hand but not smooth and it does have some wiggle.
I'm considering finally going with a Stand alone EMS Probably Mega Squirt 2 PNP, and maybe a replacement turbo or bolt on upgrade.
https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/megasquirt-plug-n-play-standalone-for-nissan-s13-sr20det-manual-trans.html
https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/isr-formerly-isr-performance-rs3871-turbo-nissan-sr20det.html
The car stills needs lots of other work (suspension, body work, Lsd, better brakes, and tires) I'm not looking to make crazy horse power right now. I just want it to drive like it should.
My main questions would be:
Should I do the EMS first in case its not the turbo?
Is there any way to know for sure the turbo is bad?
Was my issue with the 550cc injectors a Impedance thing?
Is there anything i'm not considering?
Any help would be much appreciated.
I've been out of the loop and need some advice as to what direction I should head with my project.
There's no way to make this short, but i'll do my best.
Specs:(valid to question)
SR20DET redtop
Stock turbo
Front Mount
3" Turbo back exhaust
walboro 255
wideband o2
I've had this setup running and driveable several times over the last 10 years with a few hiccups...
(10 years ago)
When I did the original swap the SR came with a "Mystery" Blitz tuned ECU and a damaged fuel rail.
At the time side feed setups seemed much pricier, and a friend gave me some free 550cc top feed injector's that had just been serviced, and a S-AFC 2. This friend was running high 11's in a AFC tuned DSM so I figured it would work too.
The car started, idled, and ran ok, but no matter how much we adjusted the S-AFC it always ran extremely rich. It seemed as if whenever we had it dialed in the stock ecu would come along and correct again.
(5 years ago)
Up to this point I was the only person to have ever worked on the car, but someone told me take it to this shop they knew so I did, and regret it. I got the car back missing all kinds of bolts and clips in the engine bay on parts they had been diagnosing. I replaced all the parts, and took a break from it.
(3 years ago)
I drove the car 2-3 times a month minus winter for most of this setup at stock boost but driving it to avoid boosting. While driving it one day it sounded like I popped a Intercooler pipe. Pulled over to check it and couldn't find any loose coupler's or leaks, and it would not start back up. I decided to have it towed. I compression tested it, and boost leak tested it everything was fine. At that time I wasn't in a great position financially and with so many variable's I decided to garage the car long-term.
(today)
With my financial situation in a little better place i'm finally considering doing some work. I have a budget of around $3000 right now.
After some recent diagnosing I suspect it could be a bad turbo because I noticed oil/carbon inside the hotpipe from turbo to the intercooler. the turbo spins by hand but not smooth and it does have some wiggle.
I'm considering finally going with a Stand alone EMS Probably Mega Squirt 2 PNP, and maybe a replacement turbo or bolt on upgrade.
https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/megasquirt-plug-n-play-standalone-for-nissan-s13-sr20det-manual-trans.html
https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/isr-formerly-isr-performance-rs3871-turbo-nissan-sr20det.html
The car stills needs lots of other work (suspension, body work, Lsd, better brakes, and tires) I'm not looking to make crazy horse power right now. I just want it to drive like it should.
My main questions would be:
Should I do the EMS first in case its not the turbo?
Is there any way to know for sure the turbo is bad?
Was my issue with the 550cc injectors a Impedance thing?
Is there anything i'm not considering?
Any help would be much appreciated.