True Life: I'm Addicted to Stupid Old Nissans

[Hoffman5982]

So I have an old build thread on here my old s14, and in it I also started the build on this car but completely stopped updating. I don't really want to update the old thread because it was primarily for the s14, so I might as well start a new one.

Fair warning, this isn't going to be an update every day kind of build thread.

Some of you guys may remember my old s14:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/95 240sx/2013-01-29_14-45-55_968_zps586f39d3.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/95 240sx/976202_629868910358843_1854745047_o_zpsa5c16922.jp g

Long story short, I sold the SR in January and the shell is sitting. I've decided to put my high comp KA in it and sell it in the next few months. Will be sad to see it go, but happy that it won't be wasting away any longer.

Now, this thread is mainly focusing on my s13 drift car. In the hopefully near future, it will include the resto project of the s14 I picked up last year:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/20160308_114247_zpsamu5jljx.jpg

More on that later though. For now, let's get started on the s13, starting from the beginning.

Phase 1: Beginner's Luck

This period in my life was just dumb. I was barely attending school. I had no motivation because I had no idea what I wanted to do. I ended up taking a total of 4 semesters off, flunked some classes, and really screwed my degree plan up, for which I'm still making up for today. I read something recently where someone stated that most drifters are aimless kids with no real ambitions. I fit that description depressingly well. The only real smart decision I made in that time was buying this car.

So I had my s14 as a daily. I had sank a shit ton of money and time into it. I wanted to start drifting, but didn't want to destroy the car. So I started looking for a shell. Surging craigslist one night I came across this

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/95 240sx/3L93Je3pe5Lc5Ka5Hecc2fec003b4662b1429.jpg

I emailed the seller that night, 15 minutes after its posting. I got a response shortly after saying I could come look at it in the morning. Got there and fell in love. It was a bone stock 89 coupe, auto, but had no engine. The woman I bought it from had gotten it from her mother, who bought it brand new. The woman was extremely nice and was really attached to the car, but it had been sitting for 2 years and she couldn't afford to put a new motor in it. I paid $550 for it and took it home.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/2012-12-06_18-12-38_687.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/2012-12-06_18-12-38_687.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN3422.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN3440.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN3431.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN3438.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN3437.jpg

As you can see, the battery tray was completely rusted through. This was the only rust on the car, fortunately. The car had an uncracked HUD dash, although the HUD didn't work. On all accounts, this car was mint as some fuckbois would say. It took everything I had to not keep it bone stock and mob around in it.

Since this wasn't my only car, I took my time with it. Because of that, stumbled upon some amazing deals, one of which being this $60 DOHC long block

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN3793_zps40ddbfa7.jpg

It was grimy

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN3820_zps19331cb7.jpg

I went through it replacing every seal except the head gasket. I don't believe in breaking that factory seal unless necessary. Thanks to a really good friend, I got all s14 accessories and an SR trans. I had to source a distributor, ka bellhousing, and s13 wiring harnesses. The ultimate goal was to end up with an engine bay that looked 100% stock. The biggest mistake I made was going with an XTD clutch, but I was trying to keep costs down. The clutch set cost over 3 times what I spent on the motor anyways lol. I deleted the egr system as well as any vacuum and coolant lines that I could under the intake manifold.

Ended with something like this

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4022_zpse047eff3.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4028_zps40579d50.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4044_zps837cb8fd.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4057_zpsc1828cd3.jpg https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/902255_10200591254797841_1674868582_o_zps5a563d14. jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4163_zps9b83848d.jpg https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4172_zps4ae93374.jpg https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4176_zpsa1325b8f.jpg

Moving onto the interior, the original seats were not comfy or supportive. I threw in my s14 se confetti seats. Also, as stated the car was originally a sohc auto. I converted the harness to sohc chassis plug as cleanly as I could and started with the auto-manual swap. Threw in a Tomei shift knob, a gaudy ebay shift boot, and a Grip Royal wheel.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4187_zps8c8c8fb7.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4193_zpsc8ed0121.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4184_zpsdb6ff745.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4180_zpsb6162fff.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4160_zpsda87302b.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4208_zps01a332fc.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4211_zpsc20ee590.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4219_zps28108485.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4221_zps7e2c486b.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/IMG_20130918_155345_zps9747ad71.jpg


Got my hands on a 5mt drive shaft and started replacing bushings with poly replacements.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4235_zpsfd032b29.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4226_zps359f7be1.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4236_zps441a42ee.jpg

Soon after this I got the car running, and it ran great. I half expected to the engine to be toast for how cheap it was. So now I could turn the focus to suspension/braking. I got a super good deal on some almost new BC type BR coilovers. I think I paid $550 shipped for them.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/IMG_20130810_154535_294_zpsafb6be51.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/IMG_20130831_190033_zps2e4fc4fc.jpg

Next, the tie rods were bad. Replaced the inner and outters with s14's, along with the rack boots.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4558_zpsa2c50f32.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/IMG_20130927_150946_462_zps25567552.jpg

Next was brakes. Being one of the most important parts of the car, I went through them completely. New pads, rotors, rebuilt the front calipers and replaced the rears with reman'd units. Also went with Agency Power stainless lines.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSC01864_zps36391705.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4589_zpsa7933abe.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4607_zps196b7819.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/IMG_20131213_173126_zps1650605e.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/DSC01958_zpsebe40b66.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/DSCN4617_zpsdef67e31.jpg

I also found play in the front ball joints, so I replaced the FLCA's

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/20140411_215923_zps5b9090c0.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/20140421_175622_zps5db07f92.jpg

Only thing left was a locking differential. I originally wanted to go cheap and do a welded. A friend offered to trade his j30 straight up for my open, so I did that instead. Ordered a shim and threw it in.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/IMG_20131121_183332_zps582378a2.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/89 240sx Coupe/IMG_20131124_151618_159_zpsfd1cb687.jpg

For those wondering, I really suggest this setup. I still run it to this day, and even went with the smaller .8mm shim. It locks perfectly all day long.

[Hoffman5982]

I was finally ready for my first event, a year later. Like I said, I took my time. Threw some super cheap steelies on as they were better than nothing, and I was trying to decide whether I wanted to go with 15's or not. Spoiler alert, I did.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2FDS C01894_zps2cd5a1e6.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2FDS C01911_zps14373695.jpg

I did some skids
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F11 507911036_687b0dfa0d_o_zps7700318e.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F88 6528_192779767591459_1632388532_o_zpscdc727ec.jpg

And I enjoyed driving the car around. Started enjoying it more than my s14, honestly.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2FIM G_20131224_162807_zpsf0364a18.jpg

Had a lot of issues with power steering. ended up making a new line out of Earl's stuff, replacing the rack with an s14 unit, added some angle and PBM rack bushings, and a cooler
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2FDSCN4448_zpsc0c616d7.jp g
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2FDS C01998_zps5518ecb9.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2FDS C01995_zps47644452.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2FDS CN4630_zps9cadd1c2.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2FDSCN4584_zps54294137.jp g

I did some more skids
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F16 18273_737233546294989_70160923_o_zps0a524ead.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F19 39615_737233492961661_2067040437_o_zps2f0eb9fc.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F16 55447_807122405969703_1441839519_o_zpscd5c9370.jpg

Ended up needing a seat. While over estimated my birth giving hips, I thought I needed a larger seat and went with a Corbeau FX1 and some Nagasia rails
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2FDS C02071_zpsfea02eb9.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140831_124640_zps2720 cd5f.jpg

I pulled the fenders to fit the 15's
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2FDS C01980_zps13cf665d.jpg

I also got a lip
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F1531583_102029671239930 86_106858786_n_zps06b247dc.jpg
[IMG]https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140421_174343_zpsalpm mj0a.jpg%5B%2FIMG%5D
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2FIMG_20140502_165555_zps g9zx8vvw.jpg

And I did some more skids
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F10549110_54943194853396 0_1463439333081055252_o_zpsvoddkkvw.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F10842190_91268740541587 4_3369109594538186845_o_zpsj25r6twp.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F57855920-IMG_2576_zpslqxo1u6j.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F57855922-IMG_4235_zpsnxt7z6cm.jpg

Phase 1 ends here
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140529_170845_zpsdboj g0yv.jpg

[Hoffman5982]

Phase 2: Better Parts, Better Wheels, Papa Bless

So this is about where I stopped posting on the previous thread. The car was starting to develop what I thought was a good sense of style. My driving was improving and overall I was enjoying the car more and more. My whole intent for this car was to not spend an enormous amount of money, but I didn't want to cut corners. I try to do everything to the best of my ability, but only wanted to upgrade if/when I felt I needed it.

I was really enjoying the KA naturally aspirated. I wanted a little more grunt so I looked into options. I picked up some s14 Megan headers, built a short ram intake, and changed my cams.

First, the intake setup was pretty cool, imo. Since I had a huge hole where the battery tray should be, I made use of it. I cut a hole in the bottom of the stock air box. I picked up some 4" plastic RV ducting and ran it from the air box down to the opening in the front bumper. I also relocated the battery to the drivers side and threw in my Koyo rad.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140918_231459_zpsxmdl xbru.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140927_162829_zpssi8g epjb.jpg

Got the headers installed along with a freshly painted valve cover.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140927_163228_zpska3p vfhn.jpg

Around this time I was going through power steering racks like crazy. I'd either get one that was already leaking, or it would start leaking the very next event. After having enough with it, I had a friend convert one of the dead ones to manual steering. I also got the parts I needed to go single belt, which were SOHC alternator brackers, tstat housing, and water pump pulley.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140915_235947_zpsltkp ucvz.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140923_170219_zpszkwd hqnm.jpg

A lot of people questioned the manual steering. In all honesty, it was the best thing I ever did to improve my driving. Manual steering can be brutal, and because of that you really learn to let the car drive itself. Before it I would do that sloppy crossing hands things trying to counter steer enough and make a lot of adjustments. I hated watching videos of myself because that is all I saw. After this rack, I was a lot smoother. I made very little corrections because that's all my weak arms could handle. I actually drove with the rack for the next year and a half until I started doing more kart tracks.

So next was the cams. I searched long and hard on this. Originally I was going to do the 248/248 setup because that's all anyone talks about. Then I found someone talking about 248/232. From my reading, it seemed that turning the intake side 4 teeth ccw shifted the power to the low end, 3 teeth would shift it to the high end, but 3.5 teeth would be a solid middle line. I really liked having power all around. I enjoyed the little bit of torque the KA provides down low, so I went with option C. To achieve this I just notched the cam gear. I picked up an s14 232 exhaust cam along with it's shims so that the clearances would be correct. I moved the exhaust side shims to the intake side when I moved the 248 cam over.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20150219_033544_zps9lao x9at.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20150219_034240_zps9ty4 lhwy.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20150219_155212_zpsnama 8vv5.jpg

I did this the night before an event, so luckily it all worked out. I put it back together, set the distributor at 25 degrees, and it absolutely ripped. I instantly noticed a jump in power as low as 2.5k, and instead of dropping off after 5.5k(something this motor never did anyways), it felt like it opened up even more.

Soon after I picked up a Recaro rep to replace the Corbeua that was too big, a pair of terrible Varrstoens, and a Taurus fan. I was running a clutch fan but the Koyo rad pushed it too close to the shroud and it ate itself.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140927_162911_zps2wmy sasi.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F10703725_10204439124512 179_8977854443804549399_n_zpsscsh3rk6.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140921_150921_zpsfzvb dgoh.jpg

Probably one event later the clutch went. It was a stage 3 XTD on a mostly stock KA, and it lasted under a year. You get what you pay for. The 11lb flywheel, however, has been solid for the money.

I went with a Clutchmasters FX300. I got it from a member here brand new.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20141107_181245_zpskh0y 8joj.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20141212_212532_zpsdpq9 3clk.jpg

I really like this clutch. Engagement feels like stock but when you clutch kick or shift aggressively, it grabs hard and has never slipped.
At this point my motor, cooling system, interior, etc was solid. My was suspension was solid, but I was also burning through tires due to so much camber. I bought one of the first sets of the ISIS pro arms. They seemed to be decent quality for the money, and they were.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140529_154247_zpszdhr 10fs.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140529_204636_zps4a8b 234a.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20140530_145314_zps02dc 77bd.jpg

I got the car aligned to -3.5 camber up front, I think like -.1 toe, and -.8 camber in the rear, 0 toe. The car felt so much more planted and I got quite a bit of wanted grip in the rear.

I started getting some bind up front so I ordered a set of Touge Factory outter tie rod ends. I went with these because they use Aurua(sp?) bearings. Now, I will say something I don't like is the lack of a cotter pin. On two separate occasions I've had these loosen on me, one time it completely came off, but luckily I was simply doing a u-turn in a cul-de-sac. I ended up adding a second nut on top to prevent it from coming loose.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160203_232010_zpsixvp 8hku.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160216_205027_zpsoq0z q4re.jpg

I did some skids and learned some valuable trailering lessons.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F10629412_43711451644531 6_2936378303984898754_o_zpskjbwdzbu.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F11009624_10205146258269 425_446873156_o_zpsufevbgtq.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F11219383_86586163346356 0_3570958024845140630_n_zpsd3fipljo.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F10882197_10204944909236 481_2932388097186046574_n_zpsbsuojl33.jpg

I wasn't feeling the wheels so I started looking for something else. Ended with these.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20150729_160254_zpsmtuw whz1.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20150729_175641_zps7eaq ryib.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20150729_185233_zpsc1mh 5pjh.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20150730_162214_zpsu4lq 9tab.jpg

They are Rota RKR 15x9 et0 all around. At the time I was running 195/55's on them. I know they aren't real Wats, but finding real ones in around this size is both hard and stupid expensive.

Next was a brake upgrade. I somehow acquired some q45 front calipers. Rockauto was having a sale on Brembo blanks for a 94 Altima for $10 a piece, so I went with it. I got rebuild kids, guide pins with boots, hardware, and Axxis Metal Master pads for the fronts. For the rears I just got some new rotors and Axxis Deluxe organic pads. I painted the front calipers to clean them up. These things were pretty big. I honestly don't think I can go any bigger with 15's, not that I'd want to.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160309_182331_zps87fu bo5o.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160311_122911_zpsvmjc id8o.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160310_235124_zpsotyj uevs.jpg

At some point I picked up a 4.36 ring and pinion and decided to go from a 1.20mm shim to a .80mm in the vlsd. I did this because it did chatter a little bit at parking lot speeds when turning tightly. Going down in size reduced it but didn't affect it's ability to lock. The 4.3 made the biggest improvement. I honestly think these cars should have came with them from the factory as it really improves the power band of a KA.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20151220_214942_zps8gbe ufce.jpg

I also decided I was done with the Grip Royal and picked up a wheel I had wanted for a while.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160127_122740_zpszagb etik.jpg

Nardi Classic. I went with a smooth leather, grey stitch 360mm due to having a manual rack. I also got a new NRG v2 quick release. After getting this I don't know how or why I ever wanted a GR.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160204_014933_zpsexal gfiv.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160201_154201_zpsytdf vzun.jpg

I did some skids
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F11807760_11241133009361 23_3428260103927535315_o_zpsqcjavt4i.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2FDSC_8843_zpsku70bj3i.jp g
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2FDSC_8890_zpsamy1cuxs.jp g
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F12401660_44369560582730 3_2844230112756493371_o_zpsohaahnei.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2FDSC_8975_zpsbfrlpvpq.jp g
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F1417614_134862574849699 2_3621385015051697186_o_zpsxmtt9hux.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F892116_443695545827309_ 6307200964885243980_o_zpsjvuj4e41.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F12419185_13486263251636 01_717135747180678536_o_zpsgwlboab4.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F12440545_44369553916064 3_1029219123168686706_o_zpsqgydals2.jpg

[couped89]

Always saw pictures of you car but never saw what all went into building it. Its definitely bad ass!! I do have to ask, what happened to cause the trailer lesson??

[Hoffman5982]

Soon after this, Mother nature decided my body lines were too straight. In Feb of last year my neighborhood was hit by a tornado. I came home to this

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160224_105126_zpswb3f njfd.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160224_105117_zps6f8b bx7e.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160224_105153_zpskjnu qkaj.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160224_105200_zpsm3nc zpli.jpg

Overall, it wasn't bad at all when you consider this was 500ft away around the corner

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2FvwkpuaV_zpsr9ny5rer.jpg

The overall damage was obvious cosmetic. The big dent in the fender being the worst of it. There was also a dent further up and a few dents on the hood.

Still looked good though

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160322_183607_zpsyl5k ucfg.jpg

Around this time a C's short shifter fell into my lap. I ordered a new boot, bushing, and gasket as I had a Megan v2 shifter currently. I also picked up a DIF shift knob from a user on here.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160407_160923_zpsb8tl rflu.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160408_001507_zpskp5t eixu.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160408_010741_zpso64x jbv7.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20160408_013935_zpscyjg tvfq.jpg


Similar to getting the Nardi and never going back, I'll never go back to eBay short shifters. This thing was awesome. No rattles whatsoever. My slowly dying trans shifted so much smoother now, I couldn't believe it.

Then, my pristine dash cracked. Awesome. It bothered me at first but I got used to it. It's my fault for never using a shade. As fate would have it, I got a really good deal on an uncracked one along with a clean shift/radio bezel. Being a non HUD dash, and even though my HUD still doesn't work, I cut this one and mounted the housing. It was super nerve racking.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F12717549_10207933398186 837_8282917276709820983_n_zpsapm65dhb.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F14956053_10210310520213 402_4871868263347401840_n_zpsle2djc2r.jpg

And then I decided to do what I had done on my s14 and install the jdm digital climate control, along with the head unit from my s14. The process is much easier on s13's. Hardest part is mounting the door motor.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F20 160605_200832_zps9x40xkno.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F20 160605_231229_zpszs8ya4ii.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F20 160606_024359_zpsxrh317wr.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F20 160606_151749_zpshqxjtcx2.jpg

The interior was looking really clean at this point

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F20161212_161929_zpszsvm altx.jpg

And then I finally got an actual exhaust. Until now, I had the jankiest exhuasts ever. I paid good money for a BRM because they gave me the option of going 2.5" and adding a resonator. Overall, though, I was never super pumped on it. The picture they showed for the single tip was an oval canister. What I got was a round canister, almost fart cannon style. It could have also easily been tucked a solid inch closer to the car with no issue. No worries, I destroyed it 2 months later when backing onto the track after going off and catching it on the lip of the rumble strip.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F20 160509_211551_zps0rk6xkjf.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F20 160510_1517020_zpstcqhhi6o.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F89%20240sx%20Coupe%2F20 160510_162808_zpsaugkdatf.jpg

Unfortunately this is basically the end of Phase 2. I did some more stuff, but didn't take many pictures. So here's some more skids.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F14670858_10209469014055 618_1222748695414603798_n_zpsmldab08w.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F31683757356_bd63e08515_ k_zpsmuzxsflp.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F31683756246_3c5d7be4f1_ k_zpsfawecdnx.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F26414086500_1699d3c927_ o_zpsl8fvpbxz.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F13040951_14484589618470 03_6126320970641995367_o_zpsockgpxcw.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F13071925_10385961395640 40_4583419662288787439_o_zps5lwyvqti.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F30135789122_8fe54065b8_ b_zpslhq96xvf.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F29598863913_e5d0ab5432_ k_zpsaqwmanmy.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/albums%2Fi40%2Fhoffman91%2F29954342690_56e5e075b6_ b_zps4qwypbsi.jpg

Phase 3 is next and will be updated in the next few days. It consists of more power and brings us to current times.

All feedback is welcome. I haven't done a build thread in years and would love to hear what I can change.

[Hoffman5982]

Always saw pictures of you car but never saw what all went into building it. Its definitely bad ass!! I do have to ask, what happened to cause the trailer lesson??

I had one strap on either end. It was a new heavy duty strap with much higher weight limitations than I needed, so I thought I'd be good. Apparently proper procedure is a strap on either side in the rear. I was almost to an event and it was raining. Light turned yellow and for some reason I thought I could stop in time, so I slammed on brakes. The truck just slid so I let off and ran the light. No biggie. But apparently the strap snapped and allowed the car to ram forward. Luckily the jack on the trailer stopped it. We hooked a chain up to another truck, pulled it back, and continued to the track.

The bumper had some chipped paint and the lower support got a dent, which was the least of its problems, I'll update that later.

[Fuglychuki91]

I love this build with my heart and soul. I have a hatch that's ah3 and I converted to the piggy front because it's fucking rad. Your car looks so cool with the little vinyl on the side too. I like that it's still 4 lug. Im pretty sure this has been probably the coolest build that's not all flashy and crazy expensive. Not doing what everybody wants to see but what you need to do to be a better driver. Fucking props to you man

[Juantwo3]

diggen your build first time I ever like a pignose

[Unit 02]

Love the simplicity

[okoye]

Liked this car first time I saw it maybe a year or two ago? Still looks cool and wat reps actually look pretty good.

[DayTex]

I drove out to NOLA for the first time for the last end of year bash, your car looked great!

[Malik]

I like this car... keep going

[Burris167]

Its about time you got another build thread going...

[Hoffman5982]

Thanks guys. The update is delayed while I fix all the broken image links, so bear with me.

[Cody2130]

Love this build, going to steal a few ideas for my new s13 coupe project!

[Hoffman5982]

Damnit, thanks for bumping this. Now I have to update it.

[Cody2130]

Damnit, thanks for bumping this. Now I have to update it.

Glad to help haha

[S14kouki805]

I'm feeling the old school 240 decal

[joshg51]

this car is so awesome. I like how the tuning on this car is like Oem plus. I wanna try the cam setup. I think you and i found the same thread where some guy tried every combo of oem cams lol always wondered if that info was good since it was all done on a butt dyno.

[dizzariot]

I actually read all this and get to the end on the first page. Not cool. I want more of this!

[tuzzio]

talked to you a bit ago on reddit about ka nerd stuff. Car is still cool.

[dalecl9]

Car has came a long way man! Keep it up!

[Hoffman5982]

Alright, it's time. So I left off with pretty much my last drift event. From then(Dec 2016) til about March of this year, I didn't really do much to it.

To start off the year, I had to finally address the rear subframe bushings. There were so bad that I could feel it clunking around. Since the car is driven on the street as much as it is, I knew I didn't want solid bushings, so the obvious choice was Energy Suspension bushings. This wasn't too hard of a process, but I went off of everything I read online and tackled it as they said. Problem here is all of the write ups seem to be for s14's, which have two separate cups and you have to remove one. On s13's, though, you just remove the old material. I was able to find a new subframe fairly quick though.

https://i.imgur.com/8Kn9yI7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UtTzOrR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/N8TltkQ.jpg

I put these bushings off for too long. The car felt super planted afterwards. There slightly more vibration in the butt, but it doesn't have too much of an effect on ride quality.

Next I did about the most pointless thing you could do for a drift car, but it was worth it(not really). I picked up some tinted mirrors from an old 90's maxima. They are anti glare, but some also came with heated mirrors. The switch fits the s13 mirror switch as well, so I snagged it and wired it in. I ran the two wires to each mirror for the heat function which was a pretty big pain since I ran it inside the loom for that factory look. My daily Forester has this option and I loved it, so I figured why not.

https://i.imgur.com/9KcP4kh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DvMkGI9.jpg

And lastly I put a tiny bit of work on cleaning up the interior some more. Picked up some S14 Phase 2 floor mats, restored the speaker grills, and picked up a new wheel. My friend offered me a killer trade on a Masi road bike for my Nardi, and I had been considering a new wheel anyways so I jumped on it. Picked up yet another Nardi Classic, but this time a 340mm(vs the 360mm), black spokes, and perforated leather keeping the grey stitch I had before. I'm really happy with it..

https://i.imgur.com/F2LtaAx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tTvMWvo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/i6R4U2R.jpg


Now's where we get to the fun part. It's March and I have been collecting parts for quite a while.

https://i.imgur.com/7hIBOO6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lbit0qR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/35wV4CX.jpg

I had been driving NA for 3 years. I had plenty of fun but it was time for a change. I drove a friends 180sx with ~350hp and that was all the convincing I needed. I compression tested the motor and got 179psi across the board.

My goals for the turbo setup were very conservative. I was not interested in peak numbers. In fact, my original plan was 370cc injectors and a t25. This motor had given me 3 years already and I wanted to get another year or two out of it, so I wanted this to be simple yet done right. What I ended up with was a Twisted Motion 2871 turbo, Nismotronic ECU, STI 525cc Injectors, SR hybrid turbo manifold, Tomei Elbow, ISIS Downpipe, etc.

The first issue to address before adding boost though was to pull the motor and go back through it. After the last few years it was seeping oil in multiple places. Nothing major, but I didn't like seeing oil on the front cover or around the edge of the oil pan. On top of that, there was some structural work that needed to be done. So out the motor came.

https://i.imgur.com/DJkqMA5.jpg

The motor was supposed to go back in NA. I wasn't planning to put the turbo on til later this year, but I threw it on just to see how it would look and again, that was all the convincing I needed.

https://i.imgur.com/AKoK5Ps.jpg

Next step was addressing the mall rust issue. This car has lived its entire life in FL, so there's no frame rot. However, the previous owner must have had a leaky battery that eventually rusted the battery tray and fell through. That rust spread down to the lower core support, where I always jacked my cars from. Soon it looked like this

https://i.imgur.com/HakLDNg.jpg

So I cut it out. The rust had also spread to behind the headlight bucket. Most of the bolts holding the headlight on snapped off. I ended up with this

https://i.imgur.com/jqi8FSo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JLuYZMP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7pV9uPG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/m6DbDUE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oS2JhVt.jpg

Had a friend come over with his welder and we put the new lower support in and boxed in the battery tray with some straight sheet metal. It wasn't the prettiest but it's functional and better than the giant hole that was previously there. I used some Duplicolor AH3 paint which actually matched decently.

https://i.imgur.com/jrS8tGl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HD4Guvs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bLSead4.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FoqtzfP.jpg

The front end matches up much nicer after doing this and I no longer feel uncomfortable raising the front end of the car.

Back to the engine. I pulled the intake manifold off, replaced its gaskets and got rid of pretty much every vacuum hardline underneath. Popped the front covers off and put down fresh rtv. Installed a new Gates water pump and Nismo t-stat, front and rear main seals, as well as new belts. Like I said before, nothing major at all, just a little refreshen. With the turbo in place I started making the coolant/oil lines.

https://i.imgur.com/Az9noLL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VwIlhfA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xKmCB8Y.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/U5bXNt9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Y1LDm3h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/m4wfNT8.jpg

I did end up going back and putting heat shield on the lines around the turbo. I was really happy with how they came out. I also got the turbo drain line situated. I painted the oil pan and used rtv this time around instead of the felpro rubber gasket I used previously.

https://i.imgur.com/uvqQ9F6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kmLdDL0.jpg

I was really happy that this setup clears the ac compressor perfectly. Next was wiring. This was a pain because I'm OCD. I needed to run a bunch of wires for the boost solenoid, iat, map, and oil pressure sensor. I wanted it to look factory so I deloomed the wiring harness and ran the wires along side it. Since the Omni 4 bar map sensor is a GM style, I got the bracket off a chevy in the junkyard and mounted at the back of the intake manifold.

IAT:
https://i.imgur.com/yyIOb8V.jpg

Map:
https://i.imgur.com/fEjQqxT.jpg

Boost Solenoid:
https://i.imgur.com/lXQgck1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WwTwvMB.jpg

I ran these all back to the breakout box for the nismotronic. I popped in the STI injectors and wired in the new pigtails, and then decided to take a brass wire wheel to the intake.
https://i.imgur.com/ZrsF98t.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Bm0Nu0K.jpg

Also threw in a new filter on the HKS intake and test fitted it with the new s15 inlet pipe.

https://i.imgur.com/8YU5kEX.jpg

I didn't pictures but I also switched my trans out. The old SR trans was getting to be near impossible to downshift into 2nd and was also hard to get into 3rd while drifting. I got another SR trans, switched the bellhousing over and put on a fresh gasket for the front plate, along with a new Koyo throwout bearing and oem pilot bushing. This is the first throwout bearing I've had that doesn't whine. I was also pleasantly surprised to find that the Clutchmasters fx300 I had been kicking for the past 2 years had a tremendous amount of life left on it.

With that, the motor was ready to go back in the car.
https://i.imgur.com/BC1xsER.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Q2MUxZr.jpg

Getting it in was kind of a pain with the Megan motor mounts. I assume this is because it raises the motor about an inch, which I was happy about so no biggie. Once I got the new s15 outlet elbow in, I could start on the intercooler piping. On my old s14 I missed by a long shot on cutting the hole for the cold pipe and was left with a large, ugly hole. I didn't want to do that again so I took my time and created a mold using piper and tape, and spent a dumb amount of money on some good hole bits for metal. Came out nice though. The passenger hole is egg shaped because there was already a hole there, but not in the right spot. Also important to note that I used s14 SR piping with an s13 SR cold pipe that I already had and a CX core I already had.

https://i.imgur.com/cloc29i.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BCEszog.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xazPFw8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/A6OWyrg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iEpdeve.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bvutGfN.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/TUzBQd4.jpg

Got the iat bung welded on and the radiator setup back in

https://i.imgur.com/FRPIGsx.jpg

For the oil catch can, which I completely forgot about til the motor was back in, I picked up a universal on off eBay. It was made to sit up right with a big filter on top. I decided to mount it on its side where the cruise control solenoid sits. I had to buy 2x 10AN 90* to 3/4 barb adapters, a 12AN cap to replace the drain thing it came with, and for the folter(which is pointed outwards), I just got some black filter material and wrapped it around it. You have to be really looking to see it.

https://i.imgur.com/zqYoi7K.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oO818jZ.jpg

[Hoffman5982]

At this point the car was almost done. I rewired the cooling fan into the passenger side fuse box and the ignition coil to the drivers side box for an oem look, then printed off some labels.

https://i.imgur.com/Yc5HKbo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0PWdXEz.jpg

I decided to paint the intercooler core black and trimmed as little as possible to fit the crash support over it. The core is secured with 4 brackets and is as solidly mounted as it can be. That said, I have a Greddy core that I will be installing at some point. I need to get it patched and painted.

https://i.imgur.com/quxkOSa.jpg

As I said before, I didn't want to run gauges. That was a big selling factor on the Nismotronic, being able to run gauges on tunerview on my phone. Unfortunately, to run the wideband to the ecu, I still had to have it hooked up and running. So I decided to mount it in the glove box all stealth like.

https://i.imgur.com/nPYBT16.jpg

Now the car was ready for fluids. For the oil, I kept the Rotella 15w-40 w/ Wix filter I had been running for 3 years. For coolant I went with 50/50 and a bottle of water wetter. I changed it up on the trans fluid. I have always run Pennzoil Synchromesh with good luck. I was going to try Redline but didn't like how it shifts really hard when cold. So I picked up some Amsoil fluid and what a difference it made. With every penny of the $16/qt.

https://i.imgur.com/zQFCCbp.jpg?1

The car started right up and I was able to drive it around the block. It was now June/July so it had been a few months since I had driven it.

https://i.imgur.com/2ObyPUJ.jpg

With that, the car was almost ready to hit the dyno. I decided to trade out the C's short shifter for a Tomei shiter. Put on a brass bushing and new rubber boot.

https://i.imgur.com/X3GP23n.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hI9OI5G.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6g1b2kd.jpg

And lastly, I put the finishing touch on the engine bay. If you remember, I had a member here hydropdip my SR valve cover in woodgrain. I wanted to keep the theme alive so I hit him up and sent the KA cover to be done, and it came out rad.

https://i.imgur.com/E743dC3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4M7g7KD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OBY5d7p.jpg

Off to the dyno she went, which I'll come back to.
https://i.imgur.com/n9MSaz0.jpg

[feito]

Now this is how you rock the small wheel look!
Really clean build sir, keep it up! And please stay away from walls.

[Dolph_KYAS13]

This is done really well. I like the fact that was a progression as required and not an over the top build that never gets enjoyed

[KiLLeR2001]

Yeah the Amsoil is definitely better when cold. I've tried Amsoil M/T GL4 and Redline MT90 and I'd say the shifting feel is the same when both fluids are fully warmed.

Also, I hope those aren't regular heater hoses for your catch can setup. Need to use hoses meant for oils otherwise you're gonna have a bad time (been there done that).

[Hoffman5982]

Now this is how you rock the small wheel look!
Really clean build sir, keep it up! And please stay away from walls.

Thanks! And no promises

https://i.imgur.com/NBCqefL.jpg


This is done really well. I like the fact that was a progression as required and not an over the top build that never gets enjoyed

Thank you, that was my whole intent with this car. It was supposed to be as budget friendly as a drift car could be, but I also wanted to really progress as a driver. I ran the NA KA until I felt like it was preventing me from progressing further. I've personally witnessed too many people go overboard on builds and end up either never finishing it, having a car that super outweighs their skills(which shows in their driving), or end up not driving for a year or more. Simple is better in my opinion.


Yeah the Amsoil is definitely better when cold. I've tried Amsoil M/T GL4 and Redline MT90 and I'd say the shifting feel is the same when both fluids are fully warmed.

Also, I hope those aren't regular heater hoses for your catch can setup. Need to use hoses meant for oils otherwise you're gonna have a bad time (been there done that).

Yeah I was more concerned with the cold shifts. I was happy with how the synchromesh ran, but switching to this really did make it feel buttery smooth.

Also, I like how you're the only person that would notice such a minute detail, but good looking out! I'll get those switched lickity split while the head is off and it's easy to access the pcv valve area.

[5280VertDET]

http://i.imgur.com/b9tMRR0.gif

[KiLLeR2001]

Also, I like how you're the only person that would notice such a minute detail, but good looking out! I'll get those switched lickity split while the head is off and it's easy to access the pcv valve area.

Haha, yeah. I just recently added a catch can setup to my Cayenne Turbo and I was looking for PCV hoses meant for oils.

http://tehl33tsite.com/957ctt/IMAG4914.jpg

These have been holding up good so far, purchased at O'Reillys.

[Hoffman5982]

Killer, you'll be happy to know I've purchased the correct type of hose. Great call, the old hose was already starting to swell.

I guess it's time for an update

Last time I posted the car was ready for the dyno. It took 2 sessions. The first session was nothing more than a baseline with one run where we found that the wastegate wasn't cracking open til over 14psi. I wanted 10psi max so this was no bueno. I went through 3 different adjustable wastegate actuators and none of them opened at the advertised 7psi. So I picked up a new SR gate, straightened the rod and cut the end off, then threaded it to put the end from the adjustable one on it(SR gate was too short). After a month or so it was finally opening and holding at 8psi. Scheduled another tuning session and off I went.

https://i.imgur.com/n9MSaz0.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0DoWhpt.jpg

The car did great. I asked for a conservative tune as I wasn't worried about numbers. The temps never went over 175F. We ended the tune at what I thought was 10psi, making right at 290whp and 270wtq.

https://i.imgur.com/nF0hqpf.jpg

The car ripped. It was super responsive and being on 15's, it would spin through 2nd and into 3rd with no issue.

Then I started having issues. If you remember I was running a Ford Taurus efan and had been for a while. If you know anything about this fan you know how it uses a fucking ridiculous amount of power. It started melting relays. A lot. I was popping in a new relay every few days. I tried rewiring it a few times with heavier gauge wiring even though I was using the right size to begin with. I finally purchased some 60A relays and the issue went away. Unfortunately I wouldn't realize I had burned up a relay until the car started overheating. This had happened a few times. I think you know where this is going..

It was time for my first event of the year and with the new setup. I was pumped. The day before the event I took the car and got it aligned. I had not been driving the car for the past week due to changing the rack out for a new rebuilt one. I noticed on my way to the shop the car was getting hotter than usual. It normally cruised at around 170F, it was sitting at 210F all the way there. I bled the system more when I got home and that seemed to help. So I loaded up and headed out the next day.

The day was a nightmare. The car, power wise, felt great. The problem was I would do maybe 2 laps and the temps would be skyrocketing. It was spitting an ungodly amount of coolant into the overflow. There was no smoke and no water in the oil so I didn't want to assume the worst. I kept bleeding the system and finally I got it to act right. It would still rise after a few runs but would immediately settle back to ~180F.

https://i.imgur.com/ZJsKyZ5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/T5iQPpH.jpg

Then, on the final run, it went. I got done with the run and looked at the gauge and it read 380F. NOW it was smoking. I also noticed there was constant smoke coming from the catch can. Lame.

So I got home, ordered some ARP head studs and a new Fel Pro head gasket. The next event was a little over a month away so naturally I put the work off til 2 weeks before. I had the head decked and hot tanked. It was warped, but not as bad as I was expecting. Here's where disaster struck.

I got the head back and put it back together that night. I took my time and made sure everything was perfect.

https://i.imgur.com/S7tnbOI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CKlCxQi.jpg

Since the car had been sitting and the head was dry, I unplugged the ecu and turned it over to prime the oil pump. Good call. At first it turned over great, then I heard this crunching sound followed by the indistinguishable sound of metal on metal, further followed by the sound of a motor with no compression turning over. Popped the valve cover and found this.

https://i.imgur.com/jSnUxZ0.jpg

Cool. Ripped it back apart that night and found that every single valve was bent.

https://i.imgur.com/TZcS7HH.jpg

I knew I had the timing spot on because I checked it about 10 times, so I started looking for what caused this baby back bull shit and noticed there was no longer plastic on the timing guide

https://i.imgur.com/1UpWqzT.jpg

Until this point I had never dropped an oil pan while the motor was in the car. 8/10, not as bad as expected. The motor, however, was worse than expected, I guess the chain came off the rail near the bottom and it left its mark.

https://i.imgur.com/aYLDmYv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yPvnDxV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nop3O4b.jpg

It ate the inside of the front cover pretty good. Luckily I hoarde parts. Being that it was 5 days before the event, I couldn't replace the valves. Luckily I had a spare motor. I pulled the head and cleaned it as it was pretty nasty

https://i.imgur.com/z2DtmBe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yK8HVEw.jpg

The head was previously decked, thankfully. I also pulled the front cover and chain guides from the spare motor. The front cover was a newer oe replacement, which I didn't like but I also didn't have much of a choice. Everything went smooth until I got to the upper timing idler pulley. I went to torque it, which I've done in the past and never had an issue as I go in small increments. I got it to around 25 ft/lbs and felt it give a little. So I left it and just assumed this would be the final event before doing a full rebuild. Pretty wreckless, I know, but I was over it and I had a forged rotating assembly waiting. So I slapped it all back together.

https://i.imgur.com/lVBF5Le.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/51dAwBG.jpg

The car felt perfect. It leaked a little oil from the oil pan, so I resealed it again that night to no avail. I guess rtv doesn't set when it is cold outside? Whatever. I had tires and was ready for the 3 day event. I figured it wouldn't make it through, but I thought it would do better than it did.

https://i.imgur.com/8evrUNB.jpg

Day 1 of the Nola event was on the kart track. This was my first time driving it with power and it felt great. Remember that smoke I mentioned coming from the pcv valve? It was constant. I did a few laps and someone told me I left a huge puddle of oil when sitting in grid. Popped the hood and there was oil everywhere. Literally standing oil under the intake. The dip stick was out and I knew the rings were done, and probably had been done since the last event. So I did what any rational person would do and filled it back up. It took half a gallon to get it to the right level. Then I zip tied the dip stick down and kept driving.

The result:

qJCka4ka7VU&t=7s

If you listen, you can hear a pop and the car immediately died. It made it 4 hours into a 3 day event. I did get some really solid tandems in with friends, although not a single picture was taken during that time apparently. I spent the rest of the event quite inebriated and still had a great time. I pulled the motor later that week and tore it apart to decide what I was going to do. I'll add that tonight as I need to upload the picks off my phone.

[Hoffman5982]

https://i.imgur.com/40JHkaR.jpg

Out the motor came. Through 2017 I basically drove half an event. That sucked.

Started tearing it down and surprisingly, everything was in good shape, until I got to the pistons. Piston 1 had cracked ringlands. Piston 2 had cracked ringlands and a 1/4 of the second ring was missing.

https://i.imgur.com/4d6Y6fM.jpg

Forunately, the crank was in excellent shape and the cylinders were also ok. When I went to remove the timing idler pulley, it was wiggling. I loosened the bolt by hand and all of the threads came with it. Gotta love when people don't understand the importance of a torque wrench.

I was deciding between an oem rebuild(just honing the cylinders and slapping some new NPR rings and some bearings in), or going ahead and using my forged bottom end. Once I found that I'd need new pistons, it was a no brainer. So I started ordering parts.

https://i.imgur.com/DoDQpKi.jpg

The basic rundown is Ross 89.5mm 8.5:1 compression pistons, Eagle H-Beam Rods, all ARP hardware, Clevite 77 main/rod bearings, new gaskets/seals/etc. I also decided to rebuild the china oil pump with genuine parts for peace of mind. I dropped the block off to be bored .02 over, decked, and hot tanked. They also inspected the pistons since they were used. Everything came out perfect. I masked everything off and gave it some fresh paint.

https://i.imgur.com/7bZsoCa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hgkn5eV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IytqZwN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7PhjLnl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GmRwU1w.jpg

The first order of business was dealing with the head. I had one head that was freshly machined but had bent valves. Had another with good valves but stripped threads. So I dropped all the good valves and put them into the good head. I spent a few hours relapping them and was super happy with how it turned out. I also put some fresh Supertech valve stem seals in.

https://i.imgur.com/66YdehT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IwAwzn9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I2HCgdq.jpg

Next it was time to assemble the bottom end. Once my ring filer came in I got to work on gapping the new rings. Going by Ross's instructions, I ended with .018" gap on the top ring and .021" on the second rings. Took my time and all 4 cylinders were spot on.

https://i.imgur.com/IdU2aXS.jpg

As I was assembling the rotating assembly I used plastigauge to make sure the bearing tolerances were ok, and both the main and the rods were in the middle of the oem specified limits.

https://i.imgur.com/2Vnx2nR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4ziNo60.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1YkM8BT.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Yg6K16R.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tt3bSi3.jpg

Next was the oil system. I replaced the oil filter housing gasket and rebuilt the oil pump, then threw it on with a new oil pickup.

https://i.imgur.com/Gjdd263.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/simc8ls.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sfKhJZ1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Apc3lb8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0YA8E3i.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jlu9rYg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QTbbvvz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VShsbSQ.jpg

It was pretty much smooth sailing from here. I took it slow and made sure everything was right and torqued to spec.

https://i.imgur.com/0KP7sMd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pBqq8M4.jpg

Ended the night with an almost complete motor.

https://i.imgur.com/pTBmPpx.jpg

If you remember, I had my valve cover hydro dipped and I was super happy with it. However, it lasted maybe 3 times of driving and started cracking. The guy who did it was happy to redo it, but I never got around to shipping it back to him so I just counted my losses. I painted my spare cover in wrinkle black and was happy with the result anyways(kinda hard to mess up wrinkle paint). Painted a few other bits and ended with this

https://i.imgur.com/qmEZDuw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6joVZUt.jpg

Which is where I am now. I need to clean a few pieces(mainly the intake manifold) and reattach the transmission. I plan to have the motor in the car by this weekend and I can start breaking it in. The next event is in March so I need to get yet another tune schedule before then. In all honesty, I'll probably keep it around the same power. 300whp is dumb on 15's. Second gear is almost as useless as first while drifting now. I'm trying out some grippier tires to help, and I may switch back from the 4.36 to a 3.9.

Hopefully this phase of the motor will last longer.

[5280VertDET]

Thanks for updating us and ending on a high note. Goodluck!!

[Future240]

Subb'ed


This is a great build.

[DomChan]

Great build so far man. I'm glad I saw this, it's keeping me motivated for mine! Just curious what hotpipe are you using? It's such a small detail but I like the shape of the hotpipe lol

[Hoffman5982]

Great build so far man. I'm glad I saw this, it's keeping me motivated for mine! Just curious what hotpipe are you using? It's such a small detail but I like the shape of the hotpipe lol

It’s s14 sr piping with an s13 sr cold pipe. I too liked the s14 hotpipe way better lol.

Thank you for for the kind words guys. Just dropped the motor in, I’ll update when it’s back on the road!

[Hoffman5982]

So things have happened.

I got the motor and trans together and muscled the motor in the car by myself. My friends were either out of town or sick with this plague that has been going around.

https://i.imgur.com/hESDoUG.jpg

Ended the night with it looking like this

https://i.imgur.com/lZIbNBW.jpg


After a few last minute bits came in I had it complete a few days later

https://i.imgur.com/xsiHBxZ.jpg

I decided to redo my pcv setup. Before, I was unaware that the pcv valve on these motors notoriously leaked. I had replaced it with a new one thinking I was doing the right thing, then ran the pcv and the valve cover to a vented catch can. I decided to change to a more appropriate setup. I ended up installing an SR pcv, then ran the two lines to the catch can like I had previously. I capped the vented end(pointing towards the outside of the car) and put a barb fitting on the other end which was previously capped. I ran that around the back of the head to the pre turbo intake with a small air/oil separator in line. Hopefully this setup works better. I don't think I blew my rings out due to an improper setup, but I'm sure it didn't help.

https://i.imgur.com/ho16dX8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EBg7jJ7.jpg

The time came for the first start. That's when things got interesting.

I had the ecu unplugged and started turning it over to prime the oil pump. After about 6 revolutions I noticed smoke. Thinking it was the starter, I walked around to take a look and found a damn fire coming up from beneath the intake manifold. I put it out and checked over everything. I couldn't find anything out of place, so I turned it over some more. No more smoke. Thinking it was a fluke, i plugged the ecu in and went to turn the key. This time there was a huge spark that shot up from the same area. I started feeling around and found that the oil feed line was extremely hot and was sitting against the starter housing.

It turns out that the line was somehow shorting out against the starter. Seriously the most random thing I have encountered. I reclocked the sandwich plate to get the line away from it and the issue was resolved. Turned the key and the car fired right up! Unfortunately, the fire had burned a hole in the line, so it immediately started spitting out oil. On the bright side, I knew I had good oil pressure. So I remade the line and all was well.
I let the car run for 30 minutes while I bled the coolant system. I drained the oil and the next day I took it for it's first drive.

The car felt great. It's got an exhaust leak but that's it. I did a bunch of light throttle pulls to help seat the rings and then drove it around town all day. The temps were solid at around 160F and the AFR's were spot on. Unfortunately I noticed during the first few light pulls that the clutch was slipping. I'm completely lost because it had plenty of life left and never showed a single sign of slipping before it blew. I'm currently in the process of dropping the trans to see if something is out of place, but I'm most likely going to be ordering a new clutch disc later this week. The flywheel looks good and the pressure plate surface looks almost new, so no need for a full new setup.

Still felt good to stretch its legs again though

https://i.imgur.com/GhAAhxt.jpg


Does anyone know why my pictures look straight potato quality once I upload them to imgur? This has never been an issue before and the original files look significantly better on my computer.

[Super_OK_S13]

The clutch issue might just need re-adjusted for pedal throw and return. since the slave cylinder is external and exposed to the road elements, the pin that pushes on the clutch fork wears out over time, but i would start there first.

I'm digging this car too! :hsdance:

[afishysilvia]

Knowing the struggles of a rebuild I can appreciate your dedication and persistence. Nice build

[tuzzio]

if you need a new clutch, just buy a white bunny and be done with it.

[Hoffman5982]

The clutch issue might just need re-adjusted for pedal throw and return. since the slave cylinder is external and exposed to the road elements, the pin that pushes on the clutch fork wears out over time, but i would start there first.

I'm digging this car too! :hsdance:

Thanks. I'll try readjusting the clutch pedal once it's back together if I can't find anything wrong. I do want to inspect the clutch though so I'm still going to pull it. The slave cylinder is less than a month old. I may warranty it out.

if you need a new clutch, just buy a white bunny and be done with it.

I've thought about it,and still might. I like having the lightweight flywheel though. Plus, if the pressure plate looks as good as it did when I just had it out, I can get away with just putting a new disc on which would cost significantly less than a full new clutch set.

[greenwood]

Glad it's back together.

It's fun to do stuff the short cut way only to have to go back and do it the right way. I too have done this! haha Glad it's right now!

[Super_OK_S13]

I think in the FSM it calls for about 3/4"-1"" from the pedal released position till you feel/build pressure. If there is no free spring play then you could be pushing or pulling air into the lines when the pedal is pressed/de-pressed at the master cylinder or, it ensures there's just the right amount of fluid travel to push the clutch fork to engage the clutch and not over push the slave piston out of the slave cylinder.

Good luck

:naughty: Interested in power numbers then.

[Hoffman5982]

Don't have a picture update, but I got it back together tonight and it's still slipping. I installed a Suspicious Garage clutch line and new slave for good measure, but no bueno. The pedal travel also seems fine.

While it was off I do think I found the culprit. On the ARP flywheel bolts you are supposed to put assembly lube under the heads of the bolts. I dumbly didn't thoroughly spray this area with brake clean. You could see where the lube spread out from the bolts on the flywheel as it was spinning, so I think it made its way onto the clutch surface. It really sucks because that clutch felt great and had plenty of meat left.

With the next event coming up and can't waste any more time. I've purchased an XTD 13lb RB25 flywheel(I know, but my current XTD flywheel has almost 5 years of use with no issue) and an RB25 Competition Stage 3 clutch. This clutch will most likely be much more aggressive than my current setup but pedal feel is supposed to be similar to stuck. I daily'd a 6 puck with no issue in the past. This setup is also rated for 500wtq on a skyline so I should be good.

[Dolph_KYAS13]

So things have happened.

https://i.imgur.com/GhAAhxt.jpg




Im really digging the look of this thing. the graphics are awesome :coolugh:

[JesusFreakDrifter]

Loving this build

[apex128]

I just spent far too long reading through the entire build from the beginning. I really like how this car is turning out and how you are dedicated to details (even interior stuff). Subscribed for sure

[Hoffman5982]

First event was today. Either the transmission ate itself 10x over or the flywheel came unbolted ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[DJTTon]

You better post the carnage!!!!!

[Hoffman5982]

Well here's where we're at. Car was running well but the clutch was slipping. I ended up buying a new RB25 13lb flywheel and RB25 Competition stage 3 clutch set. Got it broken in and enjoyed driving the car around. I think I put around 1300 miles on it since the rebuild.

Drift day came and it was a full day on the kart track at Nola Motorsports park. I was pumped, I had 10 new tires leftover from the last 3 day event when the car blew up. I went out, did some laps and the car felt awesome. The ATR Sport 2's provided the grip I wanted but started chunking quickly. This is exactly why I don't run Achilles anymore, they're garbage.

Did about 15 or so laps and suddenly I lost power steering, which was followed up by a super loud pop. I drove off track and found that the outter section of the crank pulley had sheered off. This is also the section used for the water pump and ps pump. Why they made that section removable is beyond me. I looked at my phone and the car hit 320F. When I stopped it was boiling out of the reservoir. Awesome.

I snagged another pulley and picked up a new belt. Put it all on and started it up. It instantly had a knocking sound. So I did what any rational person would do and poured coolant and beer into the radiator, bled it, and took it back out on the track. Temps stayed good so I think I managed to not blow the head gasket. I did about 3 more laps and the car honestly felt great power wise, go figure. Then there was a pop and grinding noise. The car still revved but I had no gears. I shut it off and the next time I started it, it sounded like a mixture of crunching and grinding, we also noticed the engine was not turning over when the starter was turning.

At this point I'm going to backtrack to the night I was putting the new clutch in. I used ARP bolts, I put the blue loctite on the threads and the ARP lube under the heads as per the instructions. Torque specs was 95 ftlbs, I chose to do it in 2 steps since all ARP bolts I've done require it to be done in increments. So I did the first torque to 45 ftlbs, but I then forgot to do the second torque. I had friends over and we were having a jolly good time. Stupid mistake, but it happened. A few days later it hit me that I don't remember doing the second torque, but my friend assured me he remembered me doing it. Guess who was right and who was wrong...

So this is my crank

https://i.imgur.com/1IM6WfE.jpg

And this is my flywheel

https://i.imgur.com/N7LSbSU.jpg

4 of the 6 ARP bolts sheered off and the flywheel raped the crank pretty hard. I'm extremely lucky that the clutch/fw stayed on the input shaft and didn't make an exit through the bellhousing.

As of right now the plan is to pull the motor out tomorrow. I'll be picking up a good crank from a friend, a new starter since the current one took some impact, and I will be ordering another set of bearings and a new flywheel. The clutch is ok, thankfully. It sucks, and it will cost a little bit, but in all honesty I'm relieved it was this and not rod knock as that would have cost quite a bit more and my car would have been down for quite a while. I may throw a fresh head on as I suspect I have a bad valve guide in this frankenstein head I did. I hope to be at the next event at the end of april.

That's a lot of reading, so here's a few pics I got from the event.

https://i.imgur.com/Uy1w6LA.png
https://i.imgur.com/T8EYLJM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/i3gs5Zv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FkpCGF3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZlXN2sF.jpg

[tuzzio]

DAMN.

Sorry to see that happen. Bummer, but such is life. We've all made mistakes.

[brndck]

jeezus man you've had some heartache since the last update.

I really like the setup on this car though, super stylish for how basic the exterior is.

[Hoffman5982]

DAMN.

Sorry to see that happen. Bummer, but such is life. We've all made mistakes.

I definitely feel dumb but shit happens. This is going to cost less than all the machine work alone would have if I did have rod knock, so I'll take it. The rtv on the front cover was seeping a little so this is the perfect time to go back and redo that.

jeezus man you've had some heartache since the last update.

I really like the setup on this car though, super stylish for how basic the exterior is.

Thanks man. That's the story of my life lol. My first SR gave me grief for over a year and still never ran right. I got 4 years of mostly trouble free driving out of this so I can't complain too much.

In other news, I picked up some 750cc injectors so 375-400whp soon? Maybe. I'll also be switching over to a clutch fan setup soon. Done with these electrics

[Krusty_s13]

I'll also be switching over to a clutch fan setup soon. Done with these electrics

Best thing I did on the NA SR. Went from electric fans to a OEM shroud and a GKTECH fan, and I haven't had a single issue since.