SR20DET Idling problem..

[Stancyeze]

So I just finished up my S13 redtop SR20DET in my 96 240sx and it won't hold an idle. At first I was positive it was because I was running a Z32 MAF on a stock SR ECU, then I tried using my friends stock s13 sr mad and it didn't really help much. I can get the car to idle somewhat smooth if i let it run for a little and rev it up. Also, the car won't bleed any coolant... no sure if that has anything to do with it. The car seems to rev up kind of slow and doesn't really get much boost according to my boost gauge. Then again, i'm only hitting like 4-5k RPM.

I've checked my IC piping, everything tight. All couplers are tight. Haven't checked timing, TPS, or IACV yet, but i doubt any of that is off..

[Stancyeze]

Fixed this issue... somewhat. I put the stock MAF on and it idles completely fine on cold start. Once the engine heats up, it will start to idle rough and my A/F ratio at idle is in the low 10's.

The car came with a ISR 255 pump, so i'm thinking maybe the fuel pressure is too high and causing it to run way too rich which could cause the bad idle once warmed up. I have an adjustable FPR, but before I install that I was just seeing if anyone had any other suggestions.

[Stancyeze]

Completely fixed that issue, retuned the ECU with RS Enthalpy.

Now I'm having a separate issue... Car cold starts completely fine, warms up fine and drives fine, BUT once i hit boost and let off the gas the car sputters out and just dies and won't restart. The first time this happened, I took the fuel filter fuel line off and cranked the car over and it surprisingly started so i quickly shut it off since it was spewing gas everywhere. Reconnected that line and the car started right up oddly, but started cutting out after 20 seconds of driving.

I'm stumped on what's going on here.

[S14kouki805]

Completely fixed that issue, retuned the ECU with RS Enthalpy.

Now I'm having a separate issue... Car cold starts completely fine, warms up fine and drives fine, BUT once i hit boost and let off the gas the car sputters out and just dies and won't restart. The first time this happened, I took the fuel filter fuel line off and cranked the car over and it surprisingly started so i quickly shut it off since it was spewing gas everywhere. Reconnected that line and the car started right up oddly, but started cutting out after 20 seconds of driving.

I'm stumped on what's going on here.

If you're running an atmospheric BOV that's the issue with your car stalling out after high boost. Sounds like you have boost leaks too though...

[Kingtal0n]

If you're running an atmospheric BOV that's the issue with your car stalling out after high boost.

I agree. the wideband is going 10:1 when you lift because the maf is fueling for all the air leaving the bov (bypass). To fix this, you need to recirculate the bov, or convert to MAP sensor.

The "dirty fix" is to delete the bov or tighten it up (some will adjust) this is just a temporary band-aid because it will stress the turbo.

[cotbu]

Sound like the injectors are leaking or over fueling, pull the fuel rail and verify koeo.

[Stancyeze]

I agree. the wideband is going 10:1 when you lift because the maf is fueling for all the air leaving the bov (bypass). To fix this, you need to recirculate the bov, or convert to MAP sensor.

The "dirty fix" is to delete the bov or tighten it up (some will adjust) this is just a temporary band-aid because it will stress the turbo.

Spot on, that did the trick.