almost done with my sr swap ran into a weird fuel/cas/ecu problem

[justinbyrant]

so as the title states im almost done but I have hit a wall I have never encountered before

its a swap that has fought me tooth and nail every step of the way, the last issue I have encountered is cas/ecu/fuel related, I have 2 cas's both good, a new ecu and a set of new injectors I have not installed yet as im waiting for new pintle caps, now the problem I have is when cranking and when turning my spare cas by hand while plugged in I have spark, when turning my spare by hand I have injector pulse and fuel, when cranking it will not start, timing is on, engine is excessively grounded, everything is hooked up but it will not start it wont even try, I have yet to pull the fuel rail and see if it sprays fuel while cranking but it seems odd the Injectors would click while turning the cas but Im not getting fuel while cranking and I can smell fuel but I don't know if that's from turning it by hand or from cranking

[KAT-PWR]

check maf voltage

[pacotaco345]

^^ that or just unplug it altogether and see if it starts. Are your fuel lines on backwards?

[justinbyrant]

fuel lines are on correctly, maf works on a current daily driver sr and if the maf was bad it would still try to kick or something, it literally does nothing just cranks, no backfire, no fire at all, comp is good, timing is good, the only thing I can even imagine is no fuel

[KAT-PWR]

Try a different ECU

[justinbyrant]

I have tried 5 lol all different numbers all known runners

[KAT-PWR]

Stare in the mirror and say "KingTal0n KingTal0n KingTal0n" and rumor has it he will appear and make your car run.

[justinbyrant]

That really would be amazing, I know its something stupid im just overlooking which honestly is the worst part

[Kingtal0n]

lol

engines only need spark fuel air

so step1 through 4 I guess

1. check for air (compression test) you want at least 127psi on each cylinder
2. check for spark (make a plug go zap when you spin cas by hand)
3. check for fuel (do the injectors click when you turn the cas, do the plugs get wet with fuel)

If you get all 3 and still no fire, the CAS timing (ignition timing) is not correct. Reset the CAS and try again till it fires.

You can run a stock computer (62, J4, E5, NA, WC make sures its one of those) with stock injectors, WITHOUT a maf sensor for the initial startup (to rule out boost leaks).

[justinbyrant]

I have 150-160 psi on all 4 cylinders
I definitely have very strong spark
the injectors all click when I turn the cas as well as the fuel pump kicking on and a I have fuel pressure, I don't know how much pressure but there is definitely some there, have not checked the plugs for fuel yet
im running an e5 ecu that I know is good and timing is dead on all marks as well as the first dot when stabbing the cas and second dot after its in
next step is going to be pulling the fuel rail to verify the injectors are actually spraying fuel but that's all I got from where im at

[Kingtal0n]

you could just pull the fuel line off the return and make sure the regulator is passing fuel.

[KAT-PWR]

Told you saying KingTal0n 3 times would bring him.

[justinbyrant]

well its definitely not flooding so I should make sure sure the fpr isn't stuck open correct? I mean in all fairness a sr would run perfectly fine if the fpr wasn't even opening as far as I know

[cotbu]

well its definitely not flooding so I should make sure sure the fpr isn't stuck open correct? I mean in all fairness a sr would run perfectly fine if the fpr wasn't even opening as far as I know
Sounds like you don't know how the sr's fpr works.
Try swapping the fuel lines and or floating the cas, because it happens sometimes.

[justinbyrant]

Sounds like you don't know how the sr's fpr works.
Try swapping the fuel lines and or floating the cas, because it happens sometimes.

the fpr works by bleeding fuel pressure off the rail so the feed is on the opposite side the fpr would open at 43.5psi if I remember right so once it hits that it opens to maintain 43.5 psi and bleed off the rest, so if the fpr was stuck open somehow it would bleed off all pressure or most pressure not allowing pressure to build and escape through the injectors, theoretically unhooking the vacuum feed to the fpr would prevent a linear rate rise so the engine would still idle just fine but at say 10psi it would run lean as it should be increasing fuel rail pressure to 53.5 psi but its remaining constant at 43.5 psi

now that all of that is out of the way the fuel lines are on the correct way it has been checked and rechecked and i know for a fact the fuel lines are on correctly because about a year ago i had this engine to the point where it would fire but was missing on multiple cylinders and having all kinds of problems, the fuel rail has not been touched since then

the cas is set up properly i have rechecked it multiple times and turned the engine over repeatedly and rechecked it, it lines up properly every time

[cotbu]

I think you need real help, professional help now that's out of the way. We set fpr or test them with the vacuum line off, set or make sure the pressure is 43.5 or 3bar with vacuum you should be at about 36.5
These are factory values but your tuner may suggest otherwise.
well its definitely not flooding so I should make sure sure the fpr isn't stuck open correct?
You almost had it but....
Google, you kids got it easy today!


Floating the cas is have someone crank the engine while twisting the cas slightly left and right, a few more degrees each twist.

So this engine hasn't run in a year, just sell it as low mileage.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

[Kingtal0n]

if the pump is bad, the regulator will stay shut and not pass any fuel because the pressure will not push it open.

If the pump is good, and the regulator is good, the regulator will pass fuel when you turn on the pump.

If the pump is good, and the regulator is weak and easy to open, the regulator will pass fuel when you turn on the pump.

So you see the return line diagnostic clue is only valuable to diagnose a weak fuel pump, not a weak regulator. A weak regulator can be diagnosed with a fuel pressure gauge, or sometimes you can clamp the return line and get the engine to fire to prove the regulator was bad also.


A regulator could also be stuck shut, that will cause a fuel pressure spike, and seriously load the pump (sometimes you can hear it bog down harshly) and that should have started the engine because fuel pressure would be very high. Its like clamping the return line shut. All this is really unlikely and its probably just the ignition timing 360* out. You might have stabbed the CAS on the exhaust stroke.

[justinbyrant]

#1 cam lobes were pointing out it was definitely on the compression stroke, im gonna test fuel pressure tonight after work

[justinbyrant]

90% positive my cas trigger wheel is on upside down, I replaced the optical sensor on mine with a good used one from a cas with a damaged gear and im pretty sure I put the trigger wheel on upside down by mistake