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Rovch
04-17-2016, 11:47 PM
Hello Zilvia,

I have an odd issue after doing a V8 swap in my '96 S14. My, what seems to be bi-level door motor, seems to be stuck going back and forth as long as the key is in ON position or the car is running. With that said, it does not affect anything to my knowledge. Every button on my climate control works like it's suppose to.

Perhaps I am focusing the wrong thing? I am looking at the FSM and this seems to be it, but there isn't a lot explaining what it does and how it does it.

If you have experience this issue or have experience replacing this part, please let me know.

Thank you.

Agamemnon
04-18-2016, 07:26 PM
Can you elaborate on what is happening? Is it the bi-level motor not moving or is it cycling between the functions automatically?

omgosh
04-19-2016, 12:16 AM
I would check the wiring at the dash plug...not sure what would make that actuator go crazy like that , but there is a wire for the a/c recirc relay down there. I dont remember how it affects the blend doors when triggered but maybe worth looking into.

LoSt180
04-19-2016, 10:53 AM
Is it actually moving back and forth, or getting to a position and then just sitting there "clicking"?

Basically the bi-level door is closed in every HVAC position except for face/feet. I unplugged mine until I was able to get a replacement motor. Pulled the bad motor apart and noticed that a few of the plastic teeth on the gears had stripped, causing the clicking noise I was hearing. If your motor is cycling between full open and full closed, then there's something wrong with your HVAC controller.

Rovch
04-20-2016, 06:26 PM
Thank you for the responses!

Can you elaborate on what is happening? Is it the bi-level motor not moving or is it cycling between the functions automatically?

Here is a better description of what's happening:

-The motor buzzes then clicks, buzzes then clicks... over an over again non stop.
-That does not seem to affect anything at all as far the the controls go. All of the buttons, fan speeds, and heat/cold lever work as they should. (except for A/C of course because I have yet to make custom lines)
-Here is a video (https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=D7E008531C4587E0!7226&authkey=!AMYxAOqmSnVfJws&ithint=video%2cmp4) (turn up the volume)

I would check the wiring at the dash plug...not sure what would make that actuator go crazy like that , but there is a wire for the a/c recirc relay down there. I dont remember how it affects the blend doors when triggered but maybe worth looking into.

I will take a closer look at a wiring diagram.

Is it actually moving back and forth, or getting to a position and then just sitting there "clicking"?


I think it is trying to do something, but is unable to move. It clicks periodically, every few seconds.


Basically the bi-level door is closed in every HVAC position except for face/feet. I unplugged mine until I was able to get a replacement motor. Pulled the bad motor apart and noticed that a few of the plastic teeth on the gears had stripped, causing the clicking noise I was hearing. If your motor is cycling between full open and full closed, then there's something wrong with your HVAC controller.

What I find odd is that all of my control buttons seem to work as they should. I can switch air between head/legs/windshield and so on. Perhaps it's not the bi-level door that I am dealing with?

How hard was it to replace? It seems like I will have to pull the headunit to get a better access.

LoSt180
04-25-2016, 01:22 PM
What I find odd is that all of my control buttons seem to work as they should. I can switch air between head/legs/windshield and so on. Perhaps it's not the bi-level door that I am dealing with?

How hard was it to replace? It seems like I will have to pull the headunit to get a better access.

Pull the headunit and the glove box to get to it. With radio/headunit removed, the bi-level motor is on the right at the bottom of the heater core/box. Should be able to reach in an unplug it. Replacing wasn't very hard, just needed a short screwdriver to reach in there.

In the video you linked, the arm isn't moving at all, my guess is the teeth are all stripped inside. You can unplug it and it will be fine. That door only opens with bi-level setting, it's closed for every other setting. I think it balances the ratio of head/legs, because even unplugged air still came out the top and bottom for me.

Rovch
05-06-2016, 07:57 PM
Pull the headunit and the glove box to get to it. With radio/headunit removed, the bi-level motor is on the right at the bottom of the heater core/box. Should be able to reach in an unplug it. Replacing wasn't very hard, just needed a short screwdriver to reach in there.

In the video you linked, the arm isn't moving at all, my guess is the teeth are all stripped inside. You can unplug it and it will be fine. That door only opens with bi-level setting, it's closed for every other setting. I think it balances the ratio of head/legs, because even unplugged air still came out the top and bottom for me.

Gotcha, thanks. Where do you guys get these replacement motors? I can't seem to find any.

rawgarage
05-06-2016, 10:01 PM
I have the whole box willing to ship....

LoSt180
05-07-2016, 06:21 AM
Gotcha, thanks. Where do you guys get these replacement motors? I can't seem to find any.
I have the part number in my notes somewhere. I was going to order it online. I ended up getting a whole heater core though and pulled the motor off of that.