Rough Idle KA24E

[BoostWanted]

So i've did some searching, and tried a few different things for my idle problem, not all options but a few.

For whatever reason.. the previous owner spray painted the valve cover while the cover was on the car..

Anyways, the idle problem.

The car starts up just fine... but when it idles.. it will sit around 1k for maybe a second or so, and then start to drop down. It might bounce up and down 3 or so times until it finally dies. If I give it gas, it sometimes responds well. Other times, it will sound like there is a bog and the throttle doesn't change the rpms.

Had an ECU code for egr, pulled that off, cleaned it, and it hasn't came back. I did a smoke test for vacuum leaks, found one from not having a hose clamp, fixed that. Cleaned the IACV and TB..

What else could it be?

[that1guywithans13]

Is it only doing this on cold start at beginning of the day or does it go away when the car is warmed up to operating temperature?
Check and clean maf and coolant temperature switch. Make sure they are on and we'll secured and do not wiggle around. Our engines are very picky with start ups and idle. Ecu reads the temperature of coolant from the coolant temp. switch and amount of air from mass air flow sensor to create an optimum mixture of fuel to inject into engine. Also check for spark to make sure fuel is being burned (spark plugs & wireset) I'd start with checking those as they are simplest.

[BoostWanted]

Replaced the plugs and wires since the old ones weren't showing any resistance. CTS is good, the MAF I tried testing, the highest V i get when the ignition is on, but the car isn't started is less than 1. Is this correct? I haven't tried getting the car all the way warm since replacing the plugs and wires, but previously, it did it when the temp gauge showed warm or cold.

I noticed theres a hose fitting on the bottom of the intake pipe near the throttle body, where does that go? the IACV seems to be hooked up on the upper side of the intake pipe.

I'll try cleaning the MAF asap and report back if that helps.

[that1guywithans13]

You may have answrred your own question.
Post a pic of that hose fitting to see which one you are talking about. ANY air leak AFTER the maf (from maf to t.b.) will cause a big problem since the maf measures the amounts of air going in. if there's a leak of a air anywhere in between maf and tb, the air reading will change giving a very unsteady mixture of fuel and air injection so it's almost like running no maf. Double check everything on your intake pipe like damage to hoses or looses clamps where air can escape from.

[BoostWanted]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3QVfWscCzq6VDZ2U203UDFFdW8

Click that link to show the picture, the hose fitting that the screwdriver is touching.. I can't seem to find what it goes to.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like the p/o put on a KA24DE intake pipe on this KA24E, thus leading to an extra hose fitting on the intake pipe?

[BoostWanted]

Well I fixed it.. replaced the MAF with a used one that I jsut cleaned since mine was terrible, also replaced the intake pipe since mine was from a dual cam, and replaced the coupling between the intake pipe and throttle body since it had a tear in the creasing. Now it holds idle steady hot or cold at around 900rpm or so.

Now I seem to have pulled a code 45, for a leaking injector, so next is a leak down test.

I did notice the car sounded like it had a slight misfire at idle.

[S13Junky90]

Well I fixed it.. replaced the MAF with a used one that I jsut cleaned since mine was terrible, also replaced the intake pipe since mine was from a dual cam, and replaced the coupling between the intake pipe and throttle body since it had a tear in the creasing. Now it holds idle steady hot or cold at around 900rpm or so.

Now I seem to have pulled a code 45, for a leaking injector, so next is a leak down test.

I did notice the car sounded like it had a slight misfire at idle.

any word on the leak down test? having similar issues. and i was going to do a leak down test tomorrow?