RB25 AEM Series 2 Power Issue

[716RB]

Alright, so I have recently finished the wiring needed to run my AEM S2 but I am not getting power to the ecu. With the stock ecu plugged in I get switched 12v as I should to pins 49 and 59 and the fuel pump primes etc etc. When the AEM is plugged in, no relays click and there is no 12v power to the pins previously mentioned. Does anyone know why this would be happening? I am trying to load the basemap file to the ecu but cannot communicate with it unless it gets power. I have tested the ecu plug and I am getting power and ground everywhere else I should be. My thought is that there is no basemap file on the ecu, therefore it has nothing to switch the relay thru pin 16 and supply power to the ecu, can anyone confirm this or provide any other insight? It is the plug and play series 2 AEM for the rb25.

[716RB]

Built a bench harness to test the ecu. It powers up just fine and I was able to communicate with it and load the rb25 base file. Plugging the AEM back into the car i get power from the ignition switch to pin 45 and I tested pin 16 and I get switched ground as I should to control the eccs relay, but I get no power from the relay. Stock ecu switched the relay and gets power but AEM won't. I double checked all continuity of the relay and it is wired properly. Anyone understand why, even with switched ground properly functioning from the ecu, the AEM will not get power but the stock ecu will?

[Kingtal0n]

check your eccs relay diagram for the car, I bet its one wire on the ECCS. I've seen this before with the power FC I think. Try manually switching your eccs relay.

this happens when the wiring for the car is not done 100% right, you know, from rhd to lhd chassis.

could be something else of course, just trying to help with an idea.

[716RB]

So you're saying two pins on the relay may be switched?

[Kingtal0n]

No I am just pointing out that I feel you have it narrowed down the relay wiring itself, which is a common issue with these cars. The OEM ECU would work fine but the stand-alone would have trouble when it is wired half-correct.

Spend some time with it, and try manually switching the relay on/off by using a spare wire to do the job. Also you can try back feeding the power from the ECU (apply power directly to the ecu where it should be to see if it turns on correctly) Just make sure 100% you are applying power to a power wire, and not a ground, or it could ruin the computer.

Do you have an alarm or turbo timer? Sometimes they cause issues with the ECCS relay also.

[716RB]

No alarm or turbo timer. Manually switched the relay by connecting it to ground, the relay clicked, and got no switched power to pins 49 and 59

[716RB]

Fixed the wiring issue, the relay was so wrong I couldn't believe it even powered the stock ecu, and also confused how continuity even tested that it was correct. Regardless, I tried syncing timing corresponding to the marks on the crank pulley but it will not start. I switched from a hitachi to a Mitsubishi CAS and installed the AEM wheel. I cut and spliced it the same as the hitachi was wired which I have read and been told is the proper way to do it. How do I tell if I'm getting a signal? I was also told I have to set the AEM trigger pattern. Can someone please explain to me how to do this? Because my tuner pretty much wants nothing to do with my car unless it's running. Also, I have confirmed I am getting fuel and spark

[AWD260R]

You can turn your cas over manually and see if you are sparking on the coil packs, or you can see it on one of the tabs in the AEM Series 2 which show's when your coils are actually firing, it should give you these readouts on all 6 cylinders in degree's. Make sure you have it mechanically timed correctly and everything else is in order. I had issues getting fuel to my injectors turns out both sides of my injector leads had grounds, once I corrected that the car fired up. GL it's tough doing it yourself but trust me the more you learn the better because people will take your money all day and might not even have a clue how to fix things and you will be less (X) amount of money and in the same situation.

[716RB]

Thanks I appreciate it. I pulled the fuse for the fuel pump and pulled the plugs and confirmed I am getting spark by cranking the car over. Also I am certain I am getting fuel. I am pretty sure I just need to sync the timing correctly to get the car to fire. Haven't had a computer for a while so haven't been able to try and then on top of it my shop was buried by the storm up here

[716RB]

Disassembled the CAS to double check the disc was in correctly, re locked the timing based on the timing marks and attempted to start the car. It just continues to crank and floods the cylinders with fuel but cylinder 6 is the only one with fuel pooled in it. Would this be an issue with my injectors or could it be because it is the first cylinder on the rail? I was told I may need to scale down my injectors so I am going to familiarize myself with the software and give that a shot. Also, when cranking I hear the occasional "pfft" not quite like firing and it sounds like it comes from the intake side and it causes a quick spike on my boost gauge if that gives any indication as to what my issue getting the car started May be