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View Full Version : KA24DE Engine Build HELP


BlueBayS13
09-22-2014, 08:05 AM
I just picked up a KA from a 93 HB, it has 118k and is in over all good condition, I plan on turboing the motor until it kills it's self or I get bored and then rebuild the motor

But here are the specs I'm planning on going with:
Weisco Pistons 10.6:1 CR 89.5mm (.020" over)
Eagle H-Beam Rods (96mm)
Clevite Main and Rod bearings
Brian Crower Stage 3 cams
Brian Crower Dual Valve Springs and Retainers
Brian Crower Stainless Valves
ARP Head Studs
Cosmetic MLS Head Gasket
Cosmetic Gasket Kit
OE Oil Pump
OE Water Pump
Xcessive Intake Manifold
Injen Intake

Anyone got an idea of what WHP I'll be making? I'm guessing around 185-190 WHP.... I want to eventually add a 50 shot of nitrous...

Any advice? Thanks

Kingtal0n
09-22-2014, 09:55 AM
Complete waste of money and time. sorry my friend not to kill your dreams but there are wayyyy cheaper and more reliable and less time consuming ways to hit the 250rwhp mark, which is 60 more than your goal.
for instance in a single day for $4000 you can swap an S14 sr20det into the car and be driving it for the next 10 years if you take care of it.

1 day of work + oem reliability > X months of work + having to rely on machine shops and aftermarket parts

BlueBayS13
09-22-2014, 02:34 PM
Well im looking to keep my KA, and build it over time, i want my build to be different than everyone elses SR or RB swaps..

eek
09-22-2014, 04:55 PM
Different? How you are going to be different with a KA? The USDM S-chassis cars already come with KA, and there are a ton of people that have already went down the built KA route, so by no means are you going to be "DIFFERENT". ~250whp goal is fairly easy to obtain with a sr20det redtop and basic bolt-ons.

IMO if your going to spend all that cash to "BUILD" your motor, you might as well build it to make some real power.

Kingtal0n
09-22-2014, 06:15 PM
a redtop is a $1500 engine. The cheapest, oldest way to get 230~rwhp out of the box.

You will spend $1500 just in machine work doing it the other way.

My advice: NEVER build a 4-cylinder. If your goals exceed the oem capacity of the engine you are working with (for sr20det 1995 around 350rwhp, for a 4g63 its higher, etc...) you should step up to an inline 6 or V8, rather than opening the 4-cylinder.

I'd rather run an unopened stock internal 2jz-gte in the 550rwhp range than any "built" 4-cylinder, any day, any year.
besides the reliability issues with opening an engine, the higher displacement will also make the car more fun to drive / more torque in lower rpm.

el_tapatio
09-22-2014, 06:22 PM
I'm also about thinking of this...