SR20DET cranks but won't start!

[sr20detkouki]

I really need help and i can't seem to find it anywhere and i can't seem to find a post similar to my exact story,my sr will crank as if its about to start but won't, summary of its history:
3 blown head gaskets/ motors later, i changed literally EVERYTHING. Put a new 180sx sr20det blacktop, changed head and intake gaskets, shaved head, put in a new intake, new fuel filter, new isis t25 turbo and fmic, new MAF and new radiator, new 370cc injectors, too much things replaced to list. I had a horribly wired Apexi SAFC, so i spent hours removing it because it would restart everytime you turn the car on and mess with the air/fuel ratio. After all this, I charged the battery and tried starting it but it only cranked, after a few cranks i walked to the bay to see if anything was leaking/smoking considering i've had a horrible history with leaks and nothing BUT there was a scent of fuel around the car, I can't hear the fuel pump start but i'm assuming its because there's already fuel in the lines and intake to spark? anyways, i haven't driven this in 2 years and put a lot of time and money, if anyone can help me start it it would be greatly appreciated!

[sr20detkouki]

anyone have advice???

[wurley]

Have you done any troubleshooting?

[sr20detkouki]

i took out the spark plugs, they were black at the top and smelled like fuel so i got a new set gapped them and put them back in still didn't start, sorry forgot to mention that

[wurley]

Need basic info. Does it have spark?

[sr20detkouki]

i just check a couple of them and neither sparked :/

[wurley]

Ok, shouldn't be to hard to fix then. ignitor chip, cas or wiring. Just start by seeing if the coilpacks have power to them.

[sr20detkouki]

Yep checked each one 10.9v!

[sr20detkouki]

Today is literally the only day in the week I have time to put into my car so any further input is much appreciated

[Drift_FX]

fuel air spark timing compression.... test and find out which one you don't have and work your way back from there...

[sr20detkouki]

How should I check for air and fuel?

[sr20detkouki]

i disconnected my maf and it still wouldn't start if thats what you mean by air

[ultimateirving]

Check Ecu for codes. Pull the fuel rail and spin the cas to make sure the injectors are spraying good.

Check the tps voltage. Make sure the maf has the right voltage for KOEO Since there was an afc in there it might have messed up the wires worse than you think.

[wurley]

Yep checked each one 10.9v!
Ok, there is three wires right? and the one in the middle had constant power? Than the issue is either its not grounding or not getting the signal to spark (the two other wires on the coil pack connector)
fuel air spark timing compression.... test and find out which one you don't have and work your way back from there...
Doesn't have spark

[sr20detkouki]

So you're saying to follow the wires and see if they mess up anywhere? And ultimate irving it would start before when I had the afc in there as for fuel when I crank I smell it around the engine bay

[91onevia]

Make sure there is fuel coming through.. The fuel pump always makes a noise before starting the car. Make sure your plugs are actually on the ECU correctly, Also make sure your ignition chip works.

Also is it possible for you to make a video of whats happening? would help alot

[sr20detkouki]

Well I don't hear my fuel pump priming anymore, I thought it was cause there's already gas in the motor, and what do you mean on the ecu correctly? And yeah I'll put a video up tonight if it's possible to do on this page thanks a lot for the input!

[wurley]

You should hear the pump prime. I would worry about the spark first. Before you follow any wires you need to identify which one is causing the problem.

You said it has 10.9 v to the coil packs so you need to check the ground (black). Do a continuity test between the connector and the coil pack ground.

If this tests out alright (which it likely will unless you don't have the ground hooked up) than you need to test the third wire (color varies depending on coil pack).
1.To do this you need to remove the cas so you can turn it by hand.
2.Hook your test light/multimeter up so that the positive is on the positive terminal of your battery (or a constant positive) and the negative is on the connector
3. turn the cas by hand *with the key on* and it should go crazy (in your case it most likely won't)
*there might be an easier way to do that, but this is what i did.

Once you have identified this as your problem you can work back.

[sr20detkouki]

alright i'll try the continuity test and make sure the coils are grounded properly, so the ground wire should have zero voltage?

[sr20detkouki]

and by that i mean how would i know if the ground wire is okay if its supposed to read no voltage

[sr20detkouki]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vx6nIqLKSCs&feature=youtu.be
here's a video 91onevia

[wurley]

alright i'll try the continuity test and make sure the coils are grounded properly, so the ground wire should have zero voltage?
Do you know what a continuity test is? You need to put one end of your multimeter on the connector and the other on the coil pack ground (part of the coil pack sub harness).

[Vegass13]

make sure your fuses are good? could be something as simple as a popped fuel pump fuse since it sounds like its on the verge of starting

[sr20s14koukikid]

if all else fails like stated in earlier comments check your ignitor chip. i was having the same issue about 2 years back and i took weeks to even think about checking my chip and sure enough there was my issue.

[sr20detkouki]

Just checked the ignitor chip and on one side there's 11.8v but on the other side there's no power which I'm assuming is what it should be? I have a hitachi ignitor chip by the way doesn't look like the stock sr20 one

[sr20detkouki]

Fuel pump fuse has also been checked and is fine

[cotbu]

With your new motor, did it come with a new ecu? or harness?
Was the previous engine the same? I could walk you through basic setup and diagnostics, but would need to be able to see, hear and have you perform certain actions as i request, simple things such as turn the camera to the left shoot full engine bay and show me all of the sensors, wiring, vacuum lines and etc. You will also be doing Timing so removing the valve cover, setting the engine to TDC is the first request. Lets get you running this thread is way too long for a no starting sr20!

[sr20detkouki]

I used the same ecu I had on the previous motor which was the same as this 180sx blacktop s13, and used the same harness, all I got was the motor itself because I had a blown head gasket and that would be awesome! I need an SR guru to walk me through this, do you have Facebook or an email I can send videos and contact you through etc?

[cotbu]

[email protected] post videos and pics in the thread via photobucket etc. Since this is a no charge, we'll keep it all on the forum, you know for new members not to search it

Sent from my Highly Tune Galaxy S3.4!!!

[sr20detkouki]

http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/media/IMG_0817_zps6fa8a359.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/media/IMG_0816_zps99506c46.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2
http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/media/IMG_0814_zps61282841.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3
http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/media/IMG_0813_zps75ddae38.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4
http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/media/IMG_0812_zps7cdf4db6.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5
http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/media/IMG_0811_zps62b827d1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6
http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/media/IMG_0695_zps25ac1448.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7
http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/media/IMG_0821_zpsa9a6c288.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

[sr20detkouki]

I don't think the images uploaded to this thread correctly, but here's a link to the photobucket library with the fuel lines and how the ECU currently sits after removing the SAFC wires, still trying to turn the harmonic balancer with a ratchet and 27mm socket but it won't seem to budge

[cotbu]

on photobucket in your library on each thumbnail there's a cog, click it, then click get links, use the direct field, if using the insert image button on zilvia.

[sr20detkouki]

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0821_zpsa9a6c288.jpghttp://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0817_zps6fa8a359.jpghttp://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0816_zps99506c46.jpghttp://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0814_zps61282841.jpghttp://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0813_zps75ddae38.jpghttp://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0812_zps7cdf4db6.jpghttp://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0811_zps62b827d1.jpghttp://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0695_zps25ac1448.jpg

[sr20detkouki]

Its a wiring mess, previous owner installed a boost controller, turbo timer, and multi checker in a sloppy way. All the numbers on masking tape i used to document which wires were cut from where just in case removing the safc didn't work out

[cotbu]

Ok, have you managed to rotate the crank, and get to TDC?
You need to put the ecu back in, where gonna be checking that too, but since it's out open it up and verify that it's stock and nothing is burnt.

Do you have a multimeter handy, the injector wiring looks bad and may even be pulled out? Has this swap in the car now ever run in this car?

[sr20detkouki]

I've checked the ecu for burnt capacitators etc and I couldn't find anything wrong, I could take I picture if necessary. And yes I have a multimeter, all injectors are getting 12 volts checked that last night. This swap did run for about a week, then head gasket blew while flooring it in 5th, turbo, Fmic and bov were all drenched in oil and turbo and fmic have been replaced brand new

[cotbu]

So the ecu is stock and has no signs of damage, you can send me a picture later.

If the engine is at tdc leave it there, send me pictures later.

Remove the fuel rail with injectors and fuel lines attached. plug in the cas. Place a rag or cardboard under the injector and turn the key to on/run. Check for leaks, make a note of which injector leaks. Go to the cas and spin it making sure all injectors fire, they should click and spray, report findings or if no leaks and injectors fire turn key off put fuel rail back on.

Get engine back to tdc, prepare cas for install.

Sent from my Highly Tuned Galaxy S3.4!!!

[sr20detkouki]

before that could you confirm if this is at TDC? I managed to turn the crank but this is the farthest it went before it locked, tried it counter-clockwise as well and it wouldn't go past about the third pin from the right :/
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0830_zps9e3d20cc.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0832_zps1028e757.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0833_zps940fc617.jpg

[sr20detkouki]

and the cam lobes seem to be pointing inwards

[zombiewolf513]

Keep turning it clockwise if you're standing in front of it. Do NOT turn it counter-clockwise. Check to make sure the car is in neutral and you do not have spark plugs in.

Keep turning it until your number 1 lobes are pointing outwards like this : <o o>
and youre on the second notch from the left.

[cotbu]

You are not at tdc yet or the cams have been installed wrong but.....that's what the screwdriver is for.
There's a bigger problem if you can't turn the engine over with a ratchet. Was it making clink clink tang type of noises while you rotated the crank?

Sent from a Highly Tuned Galaxy S3.4 LTE

[sr20detkouki]

Car is in neutral and plugs are out, just gave it another shot and #1 cam lobes are pointing outward BUT it won't go past the third notch it feels as if i'm just tightening the crank bolt. There was no noise present while rotating the crank.

[cotbu]

The crank bolt should be at 100ftlbs and the crank should rotate way before that even with all accessories connected. It could be that your not strong enough or that something is physically stopping the rotation. You need to assess the situation and let me/us know what you find. Because now i think you may have to start removing things, externally first, to find out what is stopping the engine from rotating freely. It could be anything or nothing at this point. Starter maybe stuck, belts could be too tight, etc.

I wouldn't turn it over with the key until i was sure nothing internally was damaged and/or timing is correct.
I'm still with you if you wanna tackle this. I'm just not to sure of you confidence level for what might be asked of you.

[sr20detkouki]

I'm worried it may be a bent valve if that's the case

[sr20detkouki]

I'm gonna take the belt off and turn the valves from the sprocket to make sure they turn in sequence and then I'll take the starter off and give it a shot and let you know

[cotbu]

Don't turn the engine over by the cam sprockets, use the crank bolt. The cams are linked by a chain, they should move together. When I asked if there was a clink clink tang sound that would have indicated that the chain was forcing the cam to skip, but you said there was no sound. You are removing the accessories to see if they are causing the binding, that's all. So you could eliminate a messed up trans by lifting the rear and spinning the tires while in neutral, spin both if you have an open differential. ebrake off of course. Then put it back down and move on to the next thing if it checks out.

[Rusker]

It's hard to tell in the video but does it ever sound like it wants to start or does the engine just turn over?

I've subscribed to the thread. Hopefully you'll be able to figure it out. I'd love to hear what the problem ended up being.

[sr20detkouki]

Yeah it sounded like it really wanted to start! But it would crank for days with nothing :( I really hope so too thanks man been two years since I drove it haha, and Cotbu I'm working to eliminate the transmission possibility but could you clarify what you mean by remove accessories?

[cotbu]

power steering pump belt, alternator belt, ac belt, water pump belt and starter.
you could just loosen the belts, then try turning the crank again.

[Rusker]

How old is the gasoline in the tank? If it's more than 6 months old that could be an issue.

[sr20detkouki]

there was a minimal amount of old gas, couple months old and I put about 10 litres of new gas in to try starting it. I'm having trouble with the power steering pump now, I'm trying that first cuz i have a gut feeling thats the culprit, there's three 12mm bolts and one 14mm bolt that you can see through the holes, loosened the 14mm and the 2 bottom 12mm and it won't move

[sr20detkouki]

Also just noticed what looks like oil but smells like gas coming through the crank bolt?
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q745/Hussein_Hage_Hassan/IMG_0860_zps8adc228e.jpg

[Rusker]

Any updates?

[sr20detkouki]

Not as of yet, gonna re torque the crank bolt in case that's what's causing that leak and give tdc another shot should have updates tomorrow :)

[sr20detkouki]

Progress update! I put everything back together except the fuel rail and since I wasn't hearing the pump prime I spliced the power wire and connected a battery pack to it and the injectors fired after putting it in ignition!

[sr20detkouki]

Now that the fuel has been figured out, when my friend cranked the car it turned for a second and made a noise as if something internally is hitting something and the crankshaft turns a bit but locks and hesitates to keep turning? Could it be that the crank bolt is too tight? This problem wasn't present before when the car would actually crank

[cotbu]

I said don't crank it over with the key until you were sure nothing internal was damaged,

Sent from my Highly Tuned Galaxy S3.4!!!

[sr20detkouki]

yeah and no progress was being made, so its either hydro locked or bent/broken valves