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View Full Version : SR20DET no power to injectors


stancebucket
02-06-2014, 05:21 PM
Hey, I'm swapping in a blacktop s13 SR20 into my 90 s13 shell. Everything is finished, except it will only crank and won't start up. I ran through the troubleshooting and diagnosed it down to fuel. Here's what I have so far:

-Fuel pump primes just fine
-Fuel lines have adequate pressure
-Fuel rail is getting fuel
-Car fires after manually priming injectors by jumping straight to battery

What could cause the injectors to not get power? Could this be a ground problem? I have the two ground wires right by the injector plugs grounded to the intake manifold, and I have a single 6g wire from the manifold to the strut tower. Is this acceptable and/or safe? The ECU and harness were in perfect working order before I pulled them from the donor car, it ran just fine. Any help is appreciated, I hate wires and frankly anything more I do is purely guess work.

91ka24
02-06-2014, 07:14 PM
have you checked the orange wire on the dash plug? its you batch fire for your injectors when cranking.

stancebucket
02-06-2014, 11:26 PM
all the wires there are fine on the dash plug but there's 3 or 4 miscellaneous wires cut right by the ECU plug's securing bolt, including an orange / black stripe wire and red / black stripe wire. why would these be cut? they must have been cut on the donor car and I never realized, I never even took the plastic cover off until just now to check wires.

OnTheChip
02-07-2014, 08:06 AM
The injectors are powered directly off the battery through a fuse. The ECU grounds the other side to complete the circuit and fire the injector. Could be the injector fuse is blown or missing. It's the same fuse that powers the ECCS relay.

cotbu
02-07-2014, 01:08 PM
Usually at the brown and gray plugs on the passengers side, front of car. Check if you have power for the injectors there, also check the condition of the wires, they get corroded in this location and may appear to be good, wiggling and pulling will confirm or just depin and verify. A continuity test here won't suffice. This is where I check when there is no 12v inj power, habit I guess. Probably not a problem in good weather places. G/L

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stancebucket
02-07-2014, 03:29 PM
Fixed, the fusible link to the eccs relay was blown. Jumped it and she fired right up, thanks guys!

cotbu
02-07-2014, 04:55 PM
Trying to think which fuse powers the eccs relay? Maybe you should tell me, ummm everyone.

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stancebucket
02-08-2014, 12:22 PM
Brown 25a fusible link in the passenger side fuse box, by where the battery goes. It was the one that said "ret mtr". For some reason, it was blown and the ECCS relay wouldn't get power. I still want to know why it popped, and why it wouldn't allow power to the ECCS relay, but at least it works. This is still a new shell so I'll have to give it some time to see what'll happen.

cotbu
02-08-2014, 03:33 PM
:cool: glad it's fixed

OnTheChip
02-08-2014, 03:44 PM
The ECU gets power 3 ways: 1) is powered all the time to maintain memory for things like long term fuel trim, DTCs, etc. 2) is from the ignition switch. 3) is from the ECCS relay, which is turned ON by the ECU when the ignition switch is turned ON. When the ignition switch is turned OFF, that tells the ECU to stop injectors and ignition, turn OFF the fuel pump, wait for engine to stop turning, then turn OFF the ECCS relay. So the ECU powers up with the ignition switch.