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View Full Version : Ka24DET Start,Idle,Boost Issue


Driftwire
11-21-2013, 05:43 AM
Okay first some basic info on the setup.

ISIS SR20 Replacment T25 8psi
SR20 370cc Injectors
N60 Maf (pull through)
FMIC

ECU is tuned on a base map (rom tune) from Nismotronic



Okay car is very difficult to start, have to give it WOT to have it fire up. Once car is running the idle will jump quite a bit until it levels out on it own. Maf is over 12-15 inches from the turbo inlet as recommended. Now my thoughts are that the BOV and Boost gauge are T'd off from the FPR vac line and that is effected the FPR and causing the hard start?

Now when driving I hit boost perfect and pulls hard but when I let off the throttle and put it in neutral it will drop and stall. I know this is because of the Atmospheric BOV and its falling on its face going rich. This can be solved by going blow through ive read which I may try today.

Now if I just rev to save it from dying the idle will go back to being angry and bounce and it will do that for about 5-10 seconds before leveling out.


Now my plans are to buy a SAFC II if I dont go blow through to set the DEC AIR settings to avoid the dying when hitting neutral.
What would cause the rough idle issue and the hard starting issue. Did some research and have not been able to find a straight answer.

Hope there is enough info if not just let me know and I can tell you whatever you need to know.

:hyper:

JKTUNING
11-21-2013, 09:03 AM
Okay first some basic info on the setup.

ISIS SR20 Replacment T25 8psi
SR20 370cc Injectors
N60 Maf (pull through)
FMIC

ECU is tuned on a base map (rom tune) from Nismotronic



Okay car is very difficult to start, have to give it WOT to have it fire up. Once car is running the idle will jump quite a bit until it levels out on it own. Maf is over 12-15 inches from the turbo inlet as recommended. Now my thoughts are that the BOV and Boost gauge are T'd off from the FPR vac line and that is effected the FPR and causing the hard start?

Now when driving I hit boost perfect and pulls hard but when I let off the throttle and put it in neutral it will drop and stall. I know this is because of the Atmospheric BOV and its falling on its face going rich. This can be solved by going blow through ive read which I may try today.

Now if I just rev to save it from dying the idle will go back to being angry and bounce and it will do that for about 5-10 seconds before leveling out.


Now my plans are to buy a SAFC II if I dont go blow through to set the DEC AIR settings to avoid the dying when hitting neutral.
What would cause the rough idle issue and the hard starting issue. Did some research and have not been able to find a straight answer.

Hope there is enough info if not just let me know and I can tell you whatever you need to know.

:hyper:

Since it is only on a basetune, most of these issues will be solved by having the car tuned.

Do you have a wideband in the car?

Do you have a consult cable?

Driftwire
11-21-2013, 03:50 PM
Hello JKtuning im the guy who called you last week and had the ECU sent back before monday! Its matt.

I have a dead injector on cylinder 2 I believe.

Nissan_Alex
11-23-2013, 02:35 PM
What JKtuning said, also tune may not be set for the MAF you are using.

Driftwire
11-25-2013, 12:13 PM
He did the tune for me..

Driftwire
12-02-2014, 08:40 AM
Back on this same issue again, LOL except this time the car starts with slight tap on the throttle, checked injectors all good and spraying good. Replaced all Orings just to be safe, Cleaned MAF, Removed the IACV and cleaned completly, Replaced the CTS, sprayed cleaner to check for Vac leaks, New plugs gapped at .30, BOV completly shut.

Car cranks and cranks and like stumbles like she wants to start and when she does start idles extremly rough like shes flooded for about 5 seconds and then she comes up to 1200 during warmup and drops to 920-960 during regular idle. Car will stall out when approaching some lights and seems to be running rich. With or Without SAFC tune on this is happening. 14.2-14.7 at idle and great maps during boost and when getting into boost.

When she first starts and is being stubborn if i tap the throttle the RPMS drop down like shes about to die unless I wait till the idle smoothes itself out. ANY help is appreciated as she has to be ready for Drift Day this FRIDAY.

Pulling codes tonight and will report back.

KA24DE-T
170psi across all 4 cylinders
BKR7E plugs .30 gap
T25 10psi
No BOV
SAFC II Tune (can remove)
N60 MAF
SR20 370cc Injectors
Nismotronic base tune on ECU


Car was running great for months before this randomly happened.

bmxer882x
12-02-2014, 05:59 PM
take your fuel rail off and turn your key on. Ill bet you have a leaking injector.
Giving it gas when trying to start will prevent the car from spraying any fuel helping you deflood it and get it started.

Driftwire
12-03-2014, 05:19 AM
Update!

Car is fixed and is starting up perfectly now.

ST SIGNAL fuse in the driver kick panel was done.

Slapped a new fuse in her and she is firing up just like before. Atleast I can slide her on friday now.

KAT-PWR
12-03-2014, 06:39 PM
Edit: glad you solved the problem

I do recommend going blow through. It changed my life, probably one of the best changes i've done.