wideband said engine is running super lean

[89hatchman]

But I'm not getting any knocks or anything funny. At idle it will be at about 17 until it warms up and on the throttle anywhere under 4k rpms its at 15-18.

Its an AEM UEGO wideband. Mounted on the downpipe about 2 feet from the turbo.

what the fuck?

[mmmS13]

Please elaborate.

Motor?
Tune?
Setup?

[budderigs]

Please elaborate.

Motor?
Tune?
Setup?
^ this

also is the narrow band o2 sensor connected to the ecu? or at least the analog narrow band output.

[89hatchman]

Please elaborate.

Motor?
Tune?
Setup?

Redtop SR20DET, stock ECU - a shitty auto one that the company sent me.... -.-

Stock set up, even up to the side mount intercooler - recirculated BOV

^ this

also is the narrow band o2 sensor connected to the ecu? or at least the analog narrow band output.

narrow band at the turbo elbow is going to the ECU, wideband is hooked up only to the gauge

[Kingtal0n]

Sounds like you need a fuel pump.

You still rockin the original pump for the KA?

Either that or you have an exhaust leak before the wideband. Or the wrong MAF / Bad Maf sensor. Steal one from a KA24E engine.
You could also be sucking air (vacuum leak) before the turbo, after the maf. Likely culprit because of your recirc plumbing. You better boost leak check that thing and/or block off the bypass valve for diagnosis.
Could be other things, but get back to us about those first.

Aint nothing wrong with a 63 ECU btw.

[89hatchman]

Sounds like you need a fuel pump.

You still rockin the original pump for the KA?

Either that or you have an exhaust leak before the wideband. Or the wrong MAF / Bad Maf sensor. Steal one from a KA24E engine.
You could also be sucking air (vacuum leak) before the turbo, after the maf. Likely culprit because of your recirc plumbing. You better boost leak check that thing and/or block off the bypass valve for diagnosis.
Could be other things, but get back to us about those first.

Aint nothing wrong with a 63 ECU btw.

Ya, stock fuel pump. But its weird. Once I'm in boost, around 4k RPMs or so it richens up nicely. It drops down to about 13 or so

I do have an exhaust leak...Must be the internal wastegate arm or something, you can actually feel the exhaust puff out from somewhere around there, and the elbow to turbo joint is solid

I have a SOHC maf sensor, its not plug and play right? I have to solder some wires up?

Why would my recirculated BOV cause problems? Thats what its supposed to be like. Its the stock BOV on the side mount, it goes straight back into the intake between the turbo and the MAF

[So Make Like]

Why would my recirculated BOV cause problems? Thats what its supposed to be like. Its the stock BOV on the side mount, it goes straight back into the intake between the turbo and the MAF

He referred to the plumbing of your recirculated BOV. The piping/joints could be leaking, causing vac/boost leaks, which in turn would result in poor running conditions.

[OnTheChip]

I vote vac. or exhaust leak too.

[Kingtal0n]

No no no no no no

change your fuel pump, are you crazy? Dont do ANYTHING ELSE dont boost the car at ALL until you change your OEM fuel pump for at least an $89 walbro PLEASE.
It probably does not "richen up nicely" the way you think it does!!!

[89hatchman]

No no no no no no

change your fuel pump, are you crazy? Dont do ANYTHING ELSE dont boost the car at ALL until you change your OEM fuel pump for at least an $89 walbro PLEASE.
It probably does not "richen up nicely" the way you think it does!!!

thats on the list of things to do. But I've heard from numerous people that you don't have to upgrade it for a stock SR20. Anyways, its just weird that there are no knocks or pingings what so ever from the engine. As you'd think would happen with running as lean as the wideband claims to

[So Make Like]

thats on the list of things to do. But I've heard from numerous people that you don't have to upgrade it for a stock SR20. Anyways, its just weird that there are no knocks or pingings what so ever from the engine. As you'd think would happen with running as lean as the wideband claims to

A ka fuel pump is perfectly fine for light daily driving. But if you're frequently pushing the motor into boost, you best change that pump out. In essence, there's more reason to than not. If its on the to do list, might as well do it now. Right?

[steve shadows]

Put a tomei fuel pump on it and a fuel pressure gauge and be done with it. If you need a fuel pressure regulator you'll know because it will be rich out of boost (i.e. 13.5: or under when you're not in boost). cheers

[Chris28]

Exhaust leaks will cause readings to be lean, especially if you can feel the exhaust leak with your hand.

Fix that first. You should probably get a new fuel pump as well, but you can't trust the wbo2 readings without a leak-free exhaust.

[240zach]

oem fuel pump have a higher lph than stock fuel pumps that came in the cars in japan...i researched this
fps in japan have 146 or something lph
us oem ones have 160 something
then obv a 255 has 255lph.
it can handle pretty much stock boost and thats all id recommend

[Dboyizmlg]

These past couple of days I have started my car up it was not priming my fuel pump.
I thought it was the 10amp fuse, but it turns out that the fuel pump is now going bad. It's a lazy pump. I can barely hear it prime now, and some times it won't start.

I have a walbro 255 have had it for about 7 years now.
I'm also getting 16.2 and over A/F readings (lately).
It's time for a new Walbro!

[fliprayzin240sx]

^^^Thats the problem with Walbros. They dont just just die like the OEM ones, they slowly choke up.

[fliprayzin240sx]

oem fuel pump have a higher lph than stock fuel pumps that came in the cars in japan...i researched this
fps in japan have 146 or something lph
us oem ones have 160 something
then obv a 255 has 255lph.
it can handle pretty much stock boost and thats all id recommend

Umm...no. US pumps are around 100-105 lph, Silvia pumps are about 150-160 lph.