SR20DET Misfiring, Running Rich, Poor Boost

[Danger_Dorn]

Hey guys I was creeping around and read almost every thread I could but that didnt really help much. I was driving around with my new motor and had to speed up to get on the highway. As I was speeding up I hit boost. I wasnt watching the boost gauge but it was probably about 6 psi and all of a sudden I felt a jerk and started bogging. I pulled over and saw nothing out of the ordinary.

Thought that it must be a pipe off but I have tightened all of my IC piping to where it mushrooms so I know thats not leaking, if I unplug my cylinder 3 coil pack it does not change the idle and there is fuel in the cylinder when I take out the spark plug. I took the coil pack and spark plug and put it on the valve cover and it sparks good and blue. Unplugging the maf does no difference, unplugging the tps makes it run crappy, if I unplug the injector and coil from 3 it drives ok just sluggish. I didnt think it was the maf because it just happened for no reason. I will try cleaning the maf, IACV and pulling codes but I'm at work right now and cant.

Info: s14, internally rebuilt redtop, new full WS harness, CXracing IC, new bkr7e spark plugs gapped to .28, Walbro 255 w stock FPR.

[ultimateirving]

Round two Dorn

So the coil is sparking but it is jerky and bogging when in boost.

Also the fact that your idle didnt change when you unplugged coil pack 3 means a dead cylinder... But you said it sparks when the plug is out. This leads me to think your coil is worn out. I had a bad coil and the car would drive (not great i should add) but when i hit boost it would break up and struggle so much..
I found out my number one coil could pump enough spark to fire under low load, but under boost it wasnt cutting it.
Try swapping ur #3 coil with another, and then run the same idle test and see if that cylinder is still dead.

[Danger_Dorn]

Thanks Irving for once again chiming in lol. I'll give this a shot when I get home. I forgot to mention my center valve cover bolt is broken off and I had oil in my 3rd sparkler hole. I also was suspecting a leaky injector since the car was running rich like 11 on the UEGO even at idle. I hope I can figure this out since its my DD and I LOVE running on 3 cyls and potentially warping the crank :hahano:

[AJZax]

for diagnosis, try what irving said. Switch coil pack #2 to #3 or something.

also clean oil off the spark plug tube
pull plug, clean it, check the plug gap.

Mine was starting to poop when it hit 4500rpm and enough open throttle to have liek 14psi or so, but would rev to 5 perfectly fine on super light throttle. I put Z33 packs on and bam! fixed.(also cleaned, and re-gapped plugs, they were at like .035 and I regapped em' to .029 lol

[Danger_Dorn]

Yeah i'll give that a shot. I was just confused and ruled out the spark issue since it was a blue spark when I had it sitting on the valve cover. I think spark isnt the issue

[Danger_Dorn]

Ok just went and tested a few things. Switched coil packs 2 and 3...motor runs the same when I pull the plug. The coilpack that was in cyl 3 works fine in cyl 2. When I unplug the MAF and wait a min it goes into safe mode. I am getting 12 volts on the 3rd coilpack harness plug and on that injector plug. So I really am out of ideas. My spark plug was black so could I be over injecting? Or have a leaky Injector? I might try switching injectors next... :-/

[Kingtal0n]

Do a compression test on that cylinder

[Danger_Dorn]

No compression test avail...but I did just go switch everything from cyl 3 and cyl 1 only to find no difference. It makes it run worse so I'm out of ideas. It has to have something to do with that 3rd cyl. I'm about to pay someone to pimp my ride unless i can figure this abortion out :facepalm:

[Kingtal0n]

rent a compression tester free from a local discount auto retail store

[Danger_Dorn]

Yeah I'll borrow one from a friend sometime probably this weekend. BTW when I switched the injectors the 3rd cyl was black inside so I KNOW i'm getting fuel so maybe its time to dig deeper into spark. The motor is freshly rebuilt so theres no reason for there to be no compression...

[Danger_Dorn]

Update: Still no comp test but I did take a screwdriver and listen to the injectors. All are clicking like described. I even unpluged and pluged it in to note the difference and its definitly clicking and my whole cyl is black when I removed it...there goes my clean fresh head :( Anyway I am getting 12V to the coil pack connector is that right? I know there is a "E + -" I imagine E is earth or ground + is ecu voltage in , and - is....feedback? Ill search that. SO now I def. think its the coilpack but nothing changes when I switch them...I need a spare to test with.

[Danger_Dorn]

Now I ran the motor and did all kinds of playing and here is the results.

All injectors are clicking the same. Cyl 3 is sparking and I am getting 12 V from the + but no way to check the - while its going. IF i unplug the injector with the coil still pluged in i get a distic "TINK TINK". Not sure what that is but it happens every time. Detonation? Idk. You tell me lol. If I unplug both injector and plug and go around the block the car does not backfire but its sluggish. If I leave both the injector and coil plugged in when I drive it, it wants to go but stumbles or backfires and is really jerky. And last but not least...if I switch coils 1 and 3 nothing changes. Now the car did seem to idle better when the injector and coil were plugged in but I got that "TINK TINK" so that scares me not knowing what it is and for now (being its my dd) I just leave it unplugged. So please someone tell me :wtf: is going on? The plug was black but not smashed or anything and gapped to 30. SO, I think the verdict is over injection but I will have to try switching injectors around tomorrow see if I can cause misfire on a different cyl. If not I have no idea maybe valves.

[ultimateirving]

You can try taking off the fuel rail, Its like two bolts. Then prime the fuel rail with the ign to on.. See if any fuel leaks out of cyl 3.

[Danger_Dorn]

Could it be overfueling without leaking? Ill do this test tomorrow probably but I just am looking at all possibilities right now.

Its not MAF,tps, or cooolant temp because that would affect all cyls.
Its not CAS because it does spark.
Its probably not ignitor plug because it sparks blue/white but it could be weak. Its not the coil pack because nothing happens when i switch them.
And its likely not wiring because I have a new WS harness except for the coil wiring sub harness but I looked that over and its fine.

Any Ideas? Thanks alot for the help guys

[sil80dude]

I think its an injector dude. My friend had pretty much the same problem and he changed out all 4 injectors and it ran perfect. Their are a few types of injectors that can be used in the sr's. (yellow subaru 550s , turb rx7fd's i think. You could pull the injectors and have them tested at a shop for pretty cheap. Another thing you could try is too pull the injectors and check that you didnt loose the little O ring at the base. Also lube them when you put them back in so they get.a nice seat. They can be tricky to get a good seal. Hope this helped.

[Danger_Dorn]

Thanks man I appriciate it. I'll give em a shot

[Danger_Dorn]

An excellent progress in technology

Posting to get in the classifieds I see :mrmeph:

[Danger_Dorn]

Just went and pulled the fuel rail. No leaking when the pump primes. Switched injector 3 to injector 1's spot still no difference. Still has that loud pop after reving when 3 is hooked up and boggy with backfire.

[Danger_Dorn]

So this will be fun tomorrow...yay

[Mark Slide Squad]

I had the same problem like 12 years ago on my redtop SR. I noticed that you said the thread for the coilpack bolt hole on the valve cover is busted. Mine did the same, and the coilpack wasn't making a solid contact to the plug and was causing a misfire. I fixed the stripped hole and the problem went away.

Also check to make sure that you don't have a leaky intake manifold gasket. You said the motor was just built. Sometimes if you don't torque the intake manifold properly it will leak air and then you get the problem you describe. You can spray soapy water around the area where the head/intake manifold meet. If you have an air leak, the soapy water will start to bubble.

Check your coil pack harness as well to make sure it's not damaged. When they get old, the wires tend to fray and it can cause problems and short out too. Make sure the coil pack harness ground cable is good and secure too.

Check your MAFS to ensure it's clean. Spray it out with electrical contact cleaner. If the heated element inside gets any oil or grunge on it, it can also cause that issue. People will re-oil their K&N style filter with too much oil and it sucks the oil into the MAFS which will make it run like garbage. Only way to fix it is with cleaning the MAFS internals with the aforementioned electrical contact cleaner.

[Danger_Dorn]

Thrown rocker arm on cyl 3...:duh:

[Mark Slide Squad]

Thrown rocker arm on cyl 3...:duh:

Yup, that'll do it for sure! Lol. Sucks, but now you know the issue. There is only two reasons they throw rocker arms, over revving, or the valve shims aren't correct. Did you spec out the valve shims to ensure they are the same height between the two valves when you put the motor together? People often forget this step, or simply don't know about it or realize how important it really is.

[Danger_Dorn]

Negative I did not do this but here is the catch....I dont have a tool to measure that so...yeah.

[Danger_Dorn]

I do beleive air in the lifters can do this also. The shop that redid my motor said they are all .300 but clearly that may not be the case. I do not have the money to go back and buy 16 of dem bishes

[Mark Slide Squad]

Negative I did not do this but here is the catch....I dont have a tool to measure that so...yeah.

You can make your own tool to measure the height. It's SUPER important, I would highly recommend doing this on all your valves. It will save you the headache of breaking something or having excessive wear on your valvetrain. You can make your town tool here using an old hydraulic lifter HOW TO: Measure Valve Shim Heights (Pics) - SR20 Forum (http://www.sr20forum.com/technical-information-library/145625-how-measure-valve-shim-heights-pics.html)

As far as air in the lifters is concerned, you don't need to buy new ones. Just pull out the original ones, submerge them in a container filled with oil, and then use a very small allen wrench through the top hole and press down. You'll feel the allen wrench fit into the plunger (gotta get it perfectly centered) and then you can push down on the wrench and you'll see the air bubbles come out. Keep doing it until the air is all gone, then when you take it out the container of oil, make sure to never tilt the lifter on it's side or upside down as air will get inside again. Reinstall the lifter and do this to the other 7 lifters.

The 16 valve shims of what you have should be ok of what you will need. They are cheap if you need to buy more, they are like $2 each at the nissan dealer, same shims as the SR20DE Sentra SE-R and Infiniti G20. They come in different thickness' though, so that's why you gotta measure and see what you need. You will only need to buy the flat shim, not the slotted shim, as you only need to match the height of the other valve. Make sense? With a brand new built motor, I can't stress how important this is!

[Danger_Dorn]

I bled all of my lifters on both sides last night without removing timing chain...not messing with that timing bs. Now the only problem I will have is initial start due to low oil pressure in the lifter. I had this problem before and didnt know the problem so I took it to a shop. They put 200A through the starter and it fired right up lol. From what I have read all the shim and guides in a particular motor are the same height. I have read this multiple places so that once you measure one then your good. :ugh:

[cotbu]

I bled all of my lifters on both sides last night without removing timing chainNow the only problem I will have is initial start due to low oil pressure in the lifter
The lifters are hydraulic but not self bleeding,You bled the lifters, done! Why do you think not having oil pressure to the lifters will stop you from starting your car? Is there some other lifter you're talking about or are you getting your info from somebody that knows more than I! It sounds stupid, don't you think? At least every time I read it, it does!

JUST THINK!
What I can tell this from your posts. Your car does not start on the first crank!
Your battery is weak!

[Danger_Dorn]

It does when I was driving it all this week. Maybe its because it sat for so long before. Idk. maybe I'll try jumping it

[Danger_Dorn]

The lifters are hydraulic but not self bleeding,You bled the lifters, done! Why do you think not having oil pressure to the lifters will stop you from starting your car? Is there some other lifter you're talking about or are you getting your info from somebody that knows more than I! It sounds stupid, don't you think? At least every time I read it, it does!

JUST THINK!
What I can tell this from your posts. Your car does not start on the first crank!
Your battery is weak!

Well the shop I took my car to the shop before and all they did was craaaaaaaaank the damn thing so idk. I have a fully charged optima redtop

[Mark Slide Squad]

I bled all of my lifters on both sides last night without removing timing chain...not messing with that timing bs. Now the only problem I will have is initial start due to low oil pressure in the lifter. I had this problem before and didnt know the problem so I took it to a shop. They put 200A through the starter and it fired right up lol. From what I have read all the shim and guides in a particular motor are the same height. I have read this multiple places so that once you measure one then your good. :ugh:


Ok, please take some friendly advice as I am trying to help you out here. I have been working on SR20's since 1998 (no BS) and have put together many SR20's since that time. If you take a look at the factory FSM from Australia, it will show you that all shims are NOT the same. They come in about a dozen different thickness'. The top of the valve will NOT be equal height to all other valves on the head, period. Due to tolerances in machining of the height of the valve, the valve spring retainer, and the valve seat itself, the height where the shim sits will vary. Whoever told you that all shims are the same height clearly doesn't know wtf they are talking about. Please do yourself a favor, DOWNLOAD the factory service manual. Study it. Read the section of measuring/setting valve shim clearance. If you don't understand it, I would recommend taking your car to an experienced shop that knows about SR20's.

And your car will start fine with the oil pressure in the lifters if you bled them, not sure what you mean with that part. As long as your battery is ok, the lifters won't affect the car starting. Zilvia has so much bad information on here, it's terrible. One person says something, and all of a sudden everyone believes it. If you don't believe what I am telling you, again, look at the FSM. If your valve shims aren't set correctly to each other, you WILL break/crack/throw a rocker arm, cause severe valve train wear, etc. Good luck.

[ultimateirving]

Ok, please take some friendly advice as I am trying to help you out here. I have been working on SR20's since 1998 (no BS) and have put together many SR20's since that time. If you take a look at the factory FSM from Australia, it will show you that all shims are NOT the same. They come in about a dozen different thickness'. The top of the valve will NOT be equal height to all other valves on the head, period. Due to tolerances in machining of the height of the valve, the valve spring retainer, and the valve seat itself, the height where the shim sits will vary. Whoever told you that all shims are the same height clearly doesn't know wtf they are talking about. Please do yourself a favor, DOWNLOAD the factory service manual. Study it. Read the section of measuring/setting valve shim clearance. If you don't understand it, I would recommend taking your car to an experienced shop that knows about SR20's.

And your car will start fine with the oil pressure in the lifters if you bled them, not sure what you mean with that part. As long as your battery is ok, the lifters won't affect the car starting. Zilvia has so much bad information on here, it's terrible. One person says something, and all of a sudden everyone believes it. If you don't believe what I am telling you, again, look at the FSM. If your valve shims aren't set correctly to each other, you WILL break/crack/throw a rocker arm, cause severe valve train wear, etc. Good luck.

Dorn i know this is your daily, but he is right. When you put the head back together its important to make sure these are all setup correctly. And even though its going to take more time and effort. Do yourself a favor and research learn what needs to be done so that ur SR will be reliable.

[Danger_Dorn]

As far as the hydro lifters go I was under the impression that if there is not enough oil pressure, then they will not pump up thus giving me a PITA when trying to start. I understand all of the above. I cant really afford to pay 175 bucks for a damn tool though or to make one. They "But your engine is going to go brrrrrrRRRRAAAHHHH! BOOOM!" but I think trial and error will prevail here.:bash:

[Mark Slide Squad]

As far as the hydro lifters go I was under the impression that if there is not enough oil pressure, then they will not pump up thus giving me a PITA when trying to start. I understand all of the above. I cant really afford to pay 175 bucks for a damn tool though or to make one. They "But your engine is going to go brrrrrrRRRRAAAHHHH! BOOOM!" but I think trial and error will prevail here.:bash:

Thanks @ultimateirving, you understand the importance too.
You can get an old busted lifter for probably $5, and a drop indicator for probably $20. Then you can take apart the old lifter and JB weld the drop indicator stem into it. Total cost of tool: $25. You just spent all that money rebuilding the motor and have an SR20, so I am sure you can afford $25 to make the tool! If you want to be stubborn and think what we are saying isn't important, than more power to you. When your freshly built engine breaks/throws more rocker arms, it's going to cost you a lot more than $25 to fix it. Some people only learn by their own mistakes I suppose. Cutting corners only costs you in the long run when building a motor. Think about why your engine threw a rocker arm to start with. Yes, it's because you didn't spec the shims out.

[Danger_Dorn]

Yeah I will probably end up making one. Thanks for the time and patience guys. Ummm embarrasing question but here goes. IF I left the rocker arm out could I drive it if I went easy on it? I'm a Marine and sometime I HAVE to go to work at a moments notice. This happens quite often. Will I kill it just driving on it nicely? I dont want to but I already was driving it for a week like this not knowing it lol.

[Kingtal0n]

Here is some knowledge from experience:

#1 I Once ran an SR20 with every single lifter empty (no oil, only air) and it ran perfectly normal, except for 2 things:
a: it made a horrendous ticking noise at all rpms that was very obviously coming from the valvetrain
b: it put chatter marks on all the valves by the retainers, apparently they were bouncing on the seat once in a while.

it made no difference with how the engine starts.

As to starting an SR20, here is some info...

The sr20det ecu (and even the power FC ecu, but NOT the AEM EMS) cranks all 4 cylinders to one compression stroke before it will start. If you listen carefully, you should hear 4 compression strokes (chug chug chug chug VROOOM!!!) is the typical reliable sr20det starting mechanism. If it takes MORE than 4 compression strokes, check the ORANGE wire ("start" signal) first for proper wiring as this is the most common wiring mistake people will make that affects starting characteristics. iirc that wire is a 12V signal off the ignition switch, but I could be wrong so look it up first.

Summary:
-lifters being full of air/oil have no affect on starting characteristics,
-4 compression strokes THEN start is the sr20 way

[Kingtal0n]

Yeah I will probably end up making one. Thanks for the time and patience guys. Ummm embarrasing question but here goes. IF I left the rocker arm out could I drive it if I went easy on it? I'm a Marine and sometime I HAVE to go to work at a moments notice. This happens quite often. Will I kill it just driving on it nicely? I dont want to but I already was driving it for a week like this not knowing it lol.

do not drive it without the valves operating properly.

[Danger_Dorn]

Update: Found out the shop I took it to had the shims and guides switched so the rocker arms werent seating...switched it all over and havent had a problem since other that my now fuel problem. I'll just add it here so I can bother Irving some more.

NEW PROBLEM:

Everything is great except my AFR. I'm running pig rich. I hava an AEM uego wideband and sometimes at idle or cruising it will be at a 13 to 15 but usually it just sits at the max of 10. I think I figured out the problem but I just want a 2nd opinion (this is where you come in Irving lol). I have an Walbro 255lph and the original stock FPR. My vac lines are secure with no known vac leaks. I guess what I'm getting to is my stock FPR could be old and unable to deal with the new fuel pump right? So If I get a new AFPR with a gauge i should be able to dial it down so this isnt a problem anymore right? I have checked the rail and there are no bends. I am also using the KA fuel filter which shouldnt be a problem.

I have a baby on the way so I'm trying not to break the bank. I have found universal AFPR for like 30 bucks. Input appriciated guys. Thanks

[Kingtal0n]

Update: Found out the shop I took it to had the shims and guides switched so the rocker arms werent seating...switched it all over and havent had a problem since other that my now fuel problem. I'll just add it here so I can bother Irving some more.

NEW PROBLEM:

Everything is great except my AFR. I'm running pig rich. I hava an AEM uego wideband and sometimes at idle or cruising it will be at a 13 to 15 but usually it just sits at the max of 10. I think I figured out the problem but I just want a 2nd opinion (this is where you come in Irving lol). I have an Walbro 255lph and the original stock FPR. My vac lines are secure with no known vac leaks. I guess what I'm getting to is my stock FPR could be old and unable to deal with the new fuel pump right? So If I get a new AFPR with a gauge i should be able to dial it down so this isnt a problem anymore right? I have checked the rail and there are no bends. I am also using the KA fuel filter which shouldnt be a problem.

I have a baby on the way so I'm trying not to break the bank. I have found universal AFPR for like 30 bucks. Input appriciated guys. Thanks

No, the fuel pressure regulator is not an issue if it is working properly. I Have used the OEM regulator with many walbro 255 pumps. it COULD be bad, of course, but anything can be BAD. IF it is good, there is no issue.

Why then does it sit at 10:1? couple of options.

1.Your wideband could be wrong. (check the plugs)
2. boost leak ( of course ) free to check and diagnose do this first
3. wrong / bad maf (almost never but worth pointing out)
4. bad regulator (as stated) easy to find and change an OEM regulator
5. assuming you have OEM ecu OEM Injectors OEM Maf etc... If not then there is a whole slew of other possibilities

start with that

[Danger_Dorn]

thanks for the speedy reply. This will be a long one. Brace yourselves.

Current Diagnosis
1. I have stock everything on a freshly rebuilt motor. Rebuild contains bearings, rings, metal hg, arp hg studs and rod bolts ect basically all new internals.

2. I dont think the wide band is wrong I have had it in there for less than 1000 miles positioned in the test pipe. It is an AEM uego and I have never heard of these things going bad. Plug my mpg is like 11 with black smoke at a high rev with gas smell out the pipe so I am in fact running juicy.

3. I checked spray of the injectors a while ago and again listened with a screwdriver everything checked out so that likely isnt the issue.

4. I havent checked the maf recently but i highly doubt thats it. I have a WS harness so wiring has checked out and I replugged the plugs

5. I have checked for vac leaks and found nothing. I can boost just fine up to 11psi as usual. Just slightly boggy probably due to the afr.

6. The only thing else it could be is a poor regulator. I was just going to buy the cheap godspeed universal one with the gauge on it and go from there. Not many SR's here on Camp Lejeune so I'll have to go hunting this weekend.

Thanks again for the help I'll keep you updated.

[Kingtal0n]

you need to boost leak check it. air leaving after the maf sensor is what you are looking for, not vacuum leaks. Fill the plumbing with air pressure (15psi or so) with the engine off and listen for leaks.

[Danger_Dorn]

Well, cleaned the MAF and its better. Cruising at -4 vac I sit a a perfect 14-15.5 afr, but when I acc it goes to 11 to 12.5 which is to be expected. Nex question is do you think I would benifeit from taking out my 02 sensor and cleaning it?

[Kingtal0n]

Well, cleaned the MAF and its better. Cruising at -4 vac I sit a a perfect 14-15.5 afr, but when I acc it goes to 11 to 12.5 which is to be expected. Nex question is do you think I would benifeit from taking out my 02 sensor and cleaning it?

wow #3 wrong/bad maf. its almost never the maf but, good job. how did you clean it if you dont mind me asking?


No do not clean the o2 sensor. They are cheap and easy to replace. I assume you mean the narrowband sensor. Your factory ecu should adjust the a/f ratio while cruising in closed loop using the narrowband as indicated by your wideband around 14.7:1.

you CAN try unplugging the narrowband and checking your cruise a/f ratio without it plugged in on the wideband. That would tell you how far off your base map is from ideal, based on maf sensor voltage, since that is the only variable that really matters on a stock engine in your situation. I used to carry around a few maf sensor hot-wires (just the plastic part with the hot-wire) and change them out looking for the best match. The one that gives you 12.5:1 during WOT at 7PSI and that will allow you to cruise in 5th at 65mph around 14.8:1 with the narrowband disconnected is the one you want.

It should read mid 11's if you go over 12psi of boost though. Depending on the turbocharger. If you see anything in the high 12's or 13's change out the maf until you find one that works. Either that or your fuel pump is weak (might need a hard-wire 12V source that is a typical problem)

fyi you do not want anything in the 11's at or below 7psi of boost- this is a waste of fuel. 12.5:1 is about as rich as you want to go when running 7psi from any turbocharger.

[Danger_Dorn]

I unscrewed it from the two screws on top and sprayed some airflow cleaner on it a few times and then allowed it to dry.

I have a t25 with an hks internal wastegate and I hit 12 psi WOT. My fuel ratio goes to 12.5 ish so I think we're golden :bigok:

Thanks again King. I appriciate the help. I do beleive this would be a good to keep hanging around zilv-izzle

[Danger_Dorn]

Well I'm still being picky. My next question is as follows

My cruising AFR is from 14 to 15.5 which is good. My only issue is now when I get on it...not WOT but like half throttle to keep up with traffic at a light my AFR is in between like 10.9 to 13. Is this normal or too rich? I'm kind of aiming for gas mileage right now. Some helping facts might be that I have a t25 so it spools right at 2k rpm... what do you think?

[Kingtal0n]

Well I'm still being picky. My next question is as follows

My cruising AFR is from 14 to 15.5 which is good. My only issue is now when I get on it...not WOT but like half throttle to keep up with traffic at a light my AFR is in between like 10.9 to 13. Is this normal or too rich? I'm kind of aiming for gas mileage right now. Some helping facts might be that I have a t25 so it spools right at 2k rpm... what do you think?

short answer:
It sounds good

long answer:
When tuning for part throttle with a stockish turbo I like to see these air fuels:
4" vacuum: 14.0:1
2" vacuum: 13.7:1
0psi: 13.5:1
2psi: 13.1:1
4psi: 12.9:1
7psi: 12.7:1
10psi 12.4:1
12psi 12.2:1 "(no longer part throttle)"
15psi 11.9:1 ""

these are all conservative, a little too rich, very safe if the timing is right, but somewhat lean enough to conserve fuel at part throttle.

[Danger_Dorn]

Well I paid more attention today when sitting in traffic. When getting on the gas like 1/4 throttle or anything to keep up with traffic it goes straight to 10 then holds until I return to idle where it corrects to 14 ish. So i guess it just goes rich whenever im acc....?

[Kingtal0n]

Well I paid more attention today when sitting in traffic. When getting on the gas like 1/4 throttle or anything to keep up with traffic it goes straight to 10 then holds until I return to idle where it corrects to 14 ish. So i guess it just goes rich whenever im acc....?

like i said already try different maf sensors they all work differently despite being "identical"

[Danger_Dorn]

yeah the only problem is that nobody around here that I know has an sr20.

[Kingtal0n]

Isnt that a #62 or E5 ecu? If so use a SOHC KA maf hot wire. Any junkyard...

[Danger_Dorn]

It's a redtop so yeah wouldnt a single cam KA one work? Good point. I'll have to go scavenging. It completely slipped my mind.

[Danger_Dorn]

So I definitely think its the MAF. I went WOT from 1st all the way through 4th and it pulled great. My afr was like 10.5 which is too rich I believe but still better than lean. After conducting said shinnanigan I came to a slow at a stop light where my car suddenly decided to bog down really hard. I was trying and my afr was like 13 but I wasn't getting hardly anywhere. My turbo was spooling and everything but it was BARELY accelerating. To me this sounds like a MAF issue especially with my 13mpg and rich acceleration (10.0 at times). Does everyone agree this is a MAF issue? And why would it only do this after being WOT? This isn't the first time this happened.

[Danger_Dorn]

The problem was my TPS was incorrectly adjusted so now its good. Also ign. timing was off and I had oil in my spark plug holes from a snapped center valve cover bolt (fixed with jb weld lol). Also had a vac leak in my IACV. Replaced the Maf and between all of that I guess I fixed it. Just for future reference for anyone that has this problem :hsdance: