HALP! SR no start. Totally lost. Paypal incentive inside.

[Zenk1_love]

I will paypal anyone who's solution works $15 to buy yourself a case of beer since I can't get it for you.

The problem: Won't start. It's pretty much flooding itself before it can even idle. Sometimes after pulling the spark plugs (NGK brk7 gapped 30 thousandths) and letting it air out it will fire up for a few seconds, but it bogs down almost instantly.

Car/engine info: 89 hatch, bought the swap from another forum member. Redtop sr with
New oil and water pump
New timing chain/tensioner
Hks rocker arm stoppers
New valve stem seals
BC 272 cams
BC titanium retainers
BC valve springs
Cosworth 1.5mm hg
Arp head studs
ACL bearings
Freddy intake
760cc injectors
Tomei FPR
Z32 maf
Enthalpy tuned ecu
gt2860rs

Things I've tried: Fuel pressure is set at 43 right not, but lowering or raising it doesn't seem to help.
Checked compression today, ~120 across. cylinder 2 was a little lower. Is 120 too low? I know the cams will lower it a bunch, but 120 seems awfully low.
Reset CAS, but if anything that made it worse. Didn't even fire at all afterwards.
There aren't any vacuum leeks, at least that I can find.

Any help is much appreciated.

[blkvrtswp]

2 extremely common causes for this kind of no-start:

1) Timing: CAS not inserted 100% correctly or 180 degrees off
2) Flooding: MAF wiring short or wrong MAF

Good luck.

[slideslidegnarslide]

Are you trying to start it on a stock ecu or an ecu that's not tuned? Because 760s + ecu firing thinking the injectors are stock size = flooding.

[slideslidegnarslide]

Get a tune and it will prolly run fine

[Zenk1_love]

2 extremely common causes for this kind of no-start:

1) Timing: CAS not inserted 100% correctly or 180 degrees off
2) Flooding: MAF wiring short or wrong MAF

Good luck.
Thanks, I'll double check the CAS this afternoon after class. I checked for voltage at the MAF and it has power. Need to borrow an actual volt meter to measure, but it does at least have power to it.

Are you trying to start it on a stock ecu or an ecu that's not tuned? Because 760s + ecu firing thinking the injectors are stock size = flooding.
ECU is tuned for the injectors. Might try swapping some smaller/stock injectors just to see if that helps though.

[SharkMan]

Double check that voltage on the maf, sounds like you maf is either gunked up or isn't wired correctly or has given up the ghost. Try cleaning it up and taking it off and checking its resistance also double checking the wiring. That way you'll know if your mafs at least in working order.

And for the record 120psi is quite low the minimal is supposed to be at 128psi.

[ultimateirving]

Sounds like o rings on injectors are busted. Or a possible leaky injector. Were they purchased new? Is there any fuel in the intake?

Also you can remove the fuel rail and check to see whats going on with the ignition on and the pump primed

[Mikester]

Check the wiring to your ignitor. If you know someone with an SR, maybe try to swap in theirs to see if it fires.

[97nismo]

Maybe its the fuel filter clogged? We have voltage to tps, maf, and ignitor....one of the o rings is busted but its not the problem

[cotbu]

Check the ecu for codes. read them, then post.
remove the fuel pump fuse crank the engine, do not press the accelerator. once the engine starts, put in the fuel pump fuse, even if the engine dies. Start the engine again.
You may have a leaking injector, or the tune is off, in this case you may have to try the steps above with the accelerator to the floor.
Then engine should fire with the mafs unplugged, and we all know it will run with a bad mafs.

The build seems questionable with a 1.5mm HG. Did you remove so much from the head and block that a 1.5mm gasket was necessary? There is a reason for using a 1.5mm gasket, but did you just buy it because. The 272 cams are going to compound the problem with low compression. Although you have 120 in most of the cylinders you should still be able to start. You should probably try floating the cas, until it sounds like combustion.
Fuel filter clogged doesn't seem likely as you stated you have, 43psi. And seeing the FPR comes after the rail, well it's logical. That's not saying it isn't a problem when boosting, just start up should be fine.
Oh yeah the spark plugs are probably fouled too, so cleaning them is a must if not replacing them.

[Zenk1_love]

Check the ecu for codes. read them, then post.
remove the fuel pump fuse crank the engine, do not press the accelerator. once the engine starts, put in the fuel pump fuse, even if the engine dies. Start the engine again.
You may have a leaking injector, or the tune is off, in this case you may have to try the steps above with the accelerator to the floor.
Then engine should fire with the mafs unplugged, and we all know it will run with a bad mafs.

The build seems questionable with a 1.5mm HG. Did you remove so much from the head and block that a 1.5mm gasket was necessary? There is a reason for using a 1.5mm gasket, but did you just buy it because. The 272 cams are going to compound the problem with low compression. Although you have 120 in most of the cylinders you should still be able to start. You should probably try floating the cas, until it sounds like combustion.
Fuel filter clogged doesn't seem likely as you stated you have, 43psi. And seeing the FPR comes after the rail, well it's logical. That's not saying it isn't a problem when boosting, just start up should be fine.
Oh yeah the spark plugs are probably fouled too, so cleaning them is a must if not replacing them.

Thanks for the help. I'll check ECU codes and report back later. I bought the swap with the HG and cams already installed. I'll pick up some new plugs today and try everything you suggested.

I pulled the fuel rail off and nothing was leaking . No fuel in the manifold either. Should I try a few drops of oil in the cylinders to help with compression? Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it guys.

[blkvrtswp]

I should have remembered to mention this earlier: Make sure the fuel lines are not swapped!

[Mikester]

^^Hah!^^ Good call, fellow old guy~

[Zenk1_love]

I should have remembered to mention this earlier: Make sure the fuel lines are not swapped!

^^Hah!^^ Good call, fellow old guy~

Haha they're not. That was my very first thought. Unfortunately I think it's a little more complicated.

[Zenk1_love]

No ecu codes. Tried the fuel pump fuse trick, it popped and fizzed but didn't start. I'm wondering if the injectors are maybe clogged or dirty. Gonna take them apart and soak in injector cleaner.

[blkvrtswp]

When you had the fuel rail off, did you try turning the ignition to RUN? You said no leaks so I assume yes. What happened when you cranked the engine with the fuel rail out? You should have seen fuel spray out of all 4 injectors at once.

Have you dealt with a flooded engine before? It can be tricky, even more with possibly lowered compression, and again more with 740cc injectors. I mean, you get just a little off on the timing and it ain't starting - it's flooding.

Make 100% sure you have bone dry cylinders (pull the plugs and use a hair dryer - takes just a few minutes) and proper plug gap (out of box is usually way too large of a gap), then re-stab the CAS exactly as per FSM (not where it ran best) and if something does not match the pictures or diagrams (cam positioning) stop and report back here.

(sorry for all the parentheses)

Use a full battery or jumper cables from a running car, and don't even touch the gas pedal. Good luck!

[97nismo]

still can't get it running.... Swapped ignitor from my car.... Nothing. Also changed plugs again and gapped to 30. also changed the fuel filter to z32. Car won't fire... I think it's the cas and timing is way off...and not sure how to fix it.

[godsmack]

Put engine at top dead center. Verify by making sure the #1 front cylinder is all the way up. Take valve cover off verify cams are in correct position. Crank pulley at marker 2nd from the left.

Pull cas out align right dot with notch. Punch it in and verify the dot to the left is now even with the notch. Reinstall valve cover and everything else. Try to start. If it fires put it into timing mode and then adjust cas with a timing light. That will be the 2nd from right on the crank pulley this time.

[97nismo]

^ already did that

[Zenk1_love]

Reset the CAS twice now using that exact procedure, still nothing. All four injectors are firing normally. It ran right after I swapped it in last fall, but not well. It had a Nismo fpr when I got it, but it got damaged in shipping and wasn't actually regulating, i.e. stuck all the way open. I tried a stock regulator and that worked, but it didn't run well at all because it wasn't getting enough fuel. Now with the Tomei regulator it won't even start.

[97nismo]

Is the regulator on backwards?

[ultimateirving]

This still sounds like a major vacuum leak, Are all the couplers connected tightly?
IACV fully secure and not leaking?
Its the freddy intake so are all the ports underneath blocked off?

[hobbs]

Pull the MAF plug and try to start it, see if feeding it air while trying to start it will make it run. Also sounds like your compression is way low, SRs should be anywhere from 145psi-165psi on a healthy motor.

[97nismo]

Already pulled the maf and tried to start haven't looked under the manifold but it might have a vacuum leak somewhere.... We can try that thanks

[silviaNC]

Igniter can be a problem as well and or harness
Try another ecu(try stock inj with stock ecu)
Get an tester and check your injector pulse. Also get a bucket remove rail and put ign on to see if injs will start spraying when they are not suppose to)
Triple check inj leaks
Doubt bad maf will flood your engine that quick
Check your inj ground* is the one hooked up to the back part of the intake manifold
Should have 2 grounds together)
If it flooded that bat I'm % 90 your plugs are faulted an need replacement.
Hope u get it on the rd soon. If not trash it and get my full swap:)

[97nismo]

This is my buddies car and I have tried everything you and everyone else has mentioned...the wiring is a little wanky which makes me think its a ground or maybe a plug.
It's not the ignitor I tried mine
Has fuel and fuel pressure
New pump with 43 psi on the regular and gauge
New plugs changed those a few times now
Checked compression
Set engine to TDC
Checked the maf
Injectors work fuel came out
.....it just won't fire also the coil pack all have spark

[foreverdeath]

well to start your large cams, lowered compersion, huge inj, large maf, and rom ecu (not fine tuned), is going to make any some starting issue will make it not start at all. i doubt an air leak (would only matter once started), or maf (when starting rpm it may read 1-1.05v lol) wouldnt make it hard to start as ecu is dumping a predertimed amount of fuel. maybe who ever built the motor has the timing chain off a tooth with all the big items on here that becomes huge. try checking the cam timing (i once got a dohc zc honda motor with the ex 2 tooth retard and intake 3 tooth adv rev happy but wouldnt idle below 1600rpm).

[steve shadows]

how is your wiring? The first thing I do is check the wiring harness. Usually it's fubar and you need a new engine harness. Hacked harnesses cause holy hell and are usually the culprit of most problems. Outside of that don't use crap injectors. Use denso or nismo only. Save yourself trouble. everyone is in the habit of buying the wrong parts 2-3 times over when they could have bought the right parts once and saved themselves a lot of trouble and time. my 2 cents.

[Koob]

Prime the fuel pump with the vacuum line off of the for. Watch
For fuel leaking from there. I had a tomei fpr that leaked from there after very little use.

[hdhype]

maybe who ever built the motor has the timing chain off a tooth with all the big items on here that becomes huge. try checking the cam timing (i once got a dohc zc honda motor with the ex 2 tooth retard and intake 3 tooth adv rev happy but wouldnt idle below 1600rpm).

My sr20det was advanced by a tooth for both cams. It was still able to start, idle, rev, drive around, but it would start to overheat after about 20 minutes of driving.

[Turb0wned]

ECU... Tune could be bad.

Put some stock injectors, stock MAF then plug a known working stock ECU.

[97nismo]

ecu is fine sent pics to enthalpy....as for the injectors he doesnt have stock ones. It will still start with a bad MAF....i think its the wiring

[Turb0wned]

ecu is fine sent pics to enthalpy....as for the injectors he doesnt have stock ones. It will still start with a bad MAF....i think its the wiring

When I first got my Enthalpy tune years ago, their was a mix up somewhere or the tune was bad. Car would start and run very rich then die. Call up Martin and he overnighted me another chip. Car ran perfect after.

Mistakes happen. Did the car run fine before? When things like that happen I like to try to go back to as stock as possible if I have the parts then take it from their if it runs good.

[97nismo]

Supposedly ran and pulled hard from a member on here it drove really bad about 2 miles and now it won't do anything

[silviaNC]

Supposedly ran and pulled hard from a member on here it drove really bad about 2 miles and now it won't do anything

Sounds like he jacked you guys up unless something went wrong on the install. That why i rather build my own stuff rather than thrust anybody unless i get to drive it.. I recently bought a built rb26 with 0 miles and still going to torn it down and buy all new harness, ecu, inj, sensors etc. My only advise at this point is to start replacing parts. Start by engine harness and ecu, maf and move on to injectors fuel pump, cas etc.
And would even rebuild longblock. 120 psi sounds terrible to me and it could be just a hg or something worst. Wish u guys luck

[97nismo]

car and motor are gone............bye bye headache

[ssman19]

damn you beat me to it. I was going to say sell it and get a REAL motor. Do i still get the $15? lol

[Danger_Dorn]

So...here is my opinion.

If its flooding its definitely...no shit...overfuelling.

Things that cause over fuelling is over priming,

CAS staying on triggering the injectors and sparklers.

I say take out your cas with the key on and listen to make sure your injectors are clicking individually and not staying on.

Also you have big injectors. Put all the stock stuff back on like injectors, maf, and ecu then give it a try. When you go aftermarket and have problems the first thing to do is go back to stock.

Also I had a problem starting my freshly built SR a while ago. Turned out my Hydraulic lifters didn't pump up and I wasn't getting enough juice for cranking.

1 more thing is replace your harness with a wiring specialties one. Best thing I ever did.

[97nismo]

No one cares car is gone if you read the above post lol