been working on my swap

[b4l]

just wanted to show you guys what i have been up to


http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss86/mibave/20130525_181335_zpsc97697fb.jpg

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss86/mibave/20130525_181410_zpsec581c6f.jpg

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss86/mibave/20130525_181354_zps2ee24dc1.jpg

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss86/mibave/20130522_194045_zps129fe732.jpg

[ShadowMan]

Looks good, what management system are you running? Love me some strawberry faces!

[Dboyizmlg]

Nice! I like!
You running d-jetro?

[b4l]

AEM v2 right now im at a stand still with the swap.
i have no driveshaft
radiator hoses
pigtail for my map sensor
new boostcontroler for aem
gasket for the downpipe
radiator fans
claps

lol thats about it to fire it up

[b4l]

well i have been reading on a downpipe gasket and some ppl dont have a gasket and have no leaks what do you think

people with t3 5 bolt flange/downpipe setups, running a gasket? - Honda-Tech (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1251207)

[ShadowMan]

I'm currently not running a DP gasket, no leaks at that junction. Might want to consider a v-band setup if you're still trying to decide on how to do your exhaust. That's where I'm at. All my bolts rattle loose far to often so I'm redo'ing the exhaust with a couple vband clamps. That's not that big of a list to knock out, probably by the time a driveshaft is ordered and shipped, you'd be able to get the others items handled.

[b4l]

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss86/mibave/20130526_124316_zpsb9532e92.jpg

the pipe to turbo is 5 bolt no way around it, and the rest of my pipes are v band.

well get a better pic later on

[b4l]

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss86/mibave/20130526_124650_zps63607d13.jpg

better pic

[fliprayzin240sx]

No offense but what the fuck is the point of this thread and why is it in TECH?!?!

[b4l]

for questions i have that involve my swap
ex. my downpipe question

my next question is my map sensor im having trouble puting the pig tail in never mind it works

just need to know were the wires go.

ecu is aem 6601-0104

[b4l]

http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/445709-gm-3bar-map-sensor-wiring-please-help.html

i have been searching just wanted to clear it up a bit

[Kingtal0n]

holy crap let the guy post up some pics of his engine! why so serious? why do you always come into threads cussing? like you actually need to be on this website or your gonna die! lol

Dont mind zilvians op they have nothing better to do than give people a hard time. In fact its their way of showing you love.

Looking good and fwiw if you post a thread up on zilvia and nobody comes in cussing and shitting all over the place then you done something wrong!!!

[Sileighty_85]

holy crap let the guy post up some pics of his engine! why so serious? why do you always come into threads cussing? like you actually need to be on this website or your gonna die! lol

Dont mind zilvians op they have nothing better to do than give people a hard time. In fact its their way of showing you love.

Looking good and fwiw if you post a thread up on zilvia and nobody comes in cussing and shitting all over the place then you done something wrong!!!

No, cuz if let him then everybody is gonna do it and shit will be a cluster fuck of unfinished build threads which is why this was deemed by the mods

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/449877-build-section-here-how-works.html

BTW Im still waiting on a response on how to disconnect the turbo while driving the car on the highway to keep it from overheating and drivable.

[Kingtal0n]

So im looking at it and picking it apart. I advise you to run a real crankcase evac system, especially if you have forged internals in that b!tch. I like the color scheme on the pulleys/rail do the valvecover next but maybe not that same color. the intake / air filter color is ugly get that powder coated the same like your cold pipe. use nice black hoses for the radiator. get a head shield around that brake master or it might melt and burn the car to the ground. clean up the wiring I dont like how they just meander about. get it hidden, extend it if you have to. use a name brand radiator, a griffin radiator custom fit would be the cat's meow on that engine.

just some random thoughts ok? thats why its here right, random thoughts and ideas can pour in.

[Kingtal0n]

No, cuz if let him then everybody is gonna do it and shit will be a cluster fuck of unfinished build threads which is why this was deemed by the mods

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/449877-build-section-here-how-works.html

BTW Im still waiting on a response on how to disconnect the turbo while driving the car on the highway to keep it from overheating and drivable.

ok bad boy. you take off the tiny clip that holds the Wastegate actuator to the turbine and walaa done. Now you can hold the throttle body open on a T-25 turbine engine without the EGT skyrocketing.

[Sileighty_85]

how? That makes no sense! hot exhaust is still going through the turbo and heat is still getting pumped through the compressor housing.

It makes no diff with it connected or not when the turbo is in Vac.

[Kingtal0n]

how? That makes no sense! hot exhaust is still going through the turbo and heat is still getting pumped through the compressor housing.

It makes no diff with it connected or not when the turbo is in Vac.

Forget about turbos for a second. We will come back to that.

Take a naturally aspirated engine of any make model. Now, decrease the size of the exhaust outlet. You will find that as you get smaller and smaller, the exhaust temperature starts to rise at the choke. Also, exhaust gas velocity increases as the port diameter decreases. That is one reason why manufacturers choose a happy medium between flow (large size) and exhaust gas velocity/temperature (small size). Smaller exhaust outlets tend to keep the exhaust gas hotter, which tends to increase the flow of the exhaust as well. Thats one reason putting a large catback on a small displacement naturally aspirated engine tends to decrease engine torque.

Back to turbochargers.
The turbine presents a restriction. as long as it is shut, the exhaust gas MUST flow through the turbine. That creates HEAT and BACKPRESSURE which is used to drive the compressor... which also creates its own heat as the air becomes compressed.

If you need more help with explanation I would be happy to but ask yours questions from there before I go further.

[b4l]

No, cuz if let him then everybody is gonna do it and shit will be a cluster fuck of unfinished build threads which is why this was deemed by the mods

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-only/449877-build-section-here-how-works.html

BTW Im still waiting on a response on how to disconnect the turbo while driving the car on the highway to keep it from overheating and drivable.

Then a mod will move it. but i am asking questions about the engine.

[Sileighty_85]

Forget about turbos for a second. We will come back to that.

Take a naturally aspirated engine of any make model. Now, decrease the size of the exhaust outlet. You will find that as you get smaller and smaller, the exhaust temperature starts to rise at the choke. Also, exhaust gas velocity increases as the port diameter decreases. That is one reason why manufacturers choose a happy medium between flow (large size) and exhaust gas velocity/temperature (small size). Smaller exhaust outlets tend to keep the exhaust gas hotter, which tends to increase the flow of the exhaust as well. Thats one reason putting a large catback on a small displacement naturally aspirated engine tends to decrease engine torque.

Back to turbochargers.
The turbine presents a restriction. as long as it is shut, the exhaust gas MUST flow through the turbine. That creates HEAT and BACKPRESSURE which is used to drive the compressor... which also creates its own heat as the air becomes compressed.

If you need more help with explanation I would be happy to but ask yours questions from there before I go further.


So what your saying is that Nissan had no idea on what they were doing when they built these engines that have proven to last 20+ years with factory equipment while driving 70+mph on toll roads?

If that is the case why have these engines lasted 20+ years of DDing?

[Kingtal0n]

So what your saying is that Nissan had no idea on what they were doing when they built these engines that have proven to last 20+ years with factory equipment while driving 70+mph on toll roads?

If that is the case why have these engines lasted 20+ years of DDing?

what kind of nonsense is that? I said that? I where did I say that. quote me.
You asked a physics question I gave you a physics answer. had nothing to do with road speed, chassis design flaws, inherent risks of swapping an engine, length of time engines sat in warehouses before being swapped, etc... thats a WHOLE different thing.

[Sileighty_85]

your saying the design is incorrect.

That because the WG actuator is connected it causes the engine to over heat when driven on the interstate at 60+mph @ 3K or 3.5K PRM or whatever the fuck you said.

EDIT: as well as bearing getting torn up which is the most retared thing I ever heard

EDIT X2: let me rephrase, your saying that because the exhaust housing is too small that it causes the engine to overheat.

[Kingtal0n]

your saying the design is incorrect.

That because the WG actuator is connected it causes the engine to over heat when driven on the interstate at 60+mph @ 3K or 3.5K PRM or whatever the fuck you said.

EDIT: as well as bearing getting torn up which is the most retared thing I ever heard

whatever the fuck i said? Im still waiting to see what I said. Your are choosing your own words and thoughts and ideas because you have no clue what I actually said. If you stop cussing I would love to teach you something, I even have a video of my car that was supposedly "overheating" doing 100MPH which by the way was fine, after all that, wasn't it?

I never said the design was incorrect. cmon quote me you so sure.

[Sileighty_85]

I agree, 3k is no problem. 3k is 65mph. thats exactly where I told him to stay, well done good job. hes tryin to hit 3.5-4k continuously, 75-88mph. that IS a problem. too much friction, clearances are too tight for it. too much heat. rod bearing clearance on that engine is .0008" iirc. Turbine is too small. Once again, there is a reason they did not bring this engine to the USA and it has, in part, to do with climate.

His problem is that redtops are not designed to be at 3600RPM on the highway in Florida weather; thats it. the turbine is too small and the gearing is too short for it. If you disconnect the turbine it will no longer overheat because thats where all the heat is coming from. otherwise, I told him to just drive 65MPH @ 3000rpm because thats where engine vacuum is 10" about as low as you want to go for steady highway speeds.

At 80MPH and 3600RPM the vacuum is around 3"-5" the engine is damn near in boost and it gets hot after 50 miles on that T-25, yeah.

the issue here is not so much cooling as the fact the engine should not be sitting at 3500+RPM for any length of time, regardless of whether it overheats or not. period.

This is the full retard stuff Im talking about that YOU said.

YOU said the Turbine is too small which means you think Nissan designed the engine wrong.


So now that you have been owned and my new born is finally asleep, Im out

[Kingtal0n]

your saying the design is incorrect.

EDIT X2: let me rephrase, your saying that because the exhaust housing is too small that it causes the engine to overheat.

I like where you are going with this. As an example, use a redtop.

Take a redtop on the highway and repeatedly blast it to 100mph and back to 60mph. do it once. twice. three times. watch the coolant temperature start to rise. with me so far? keep on doing it. again and again and again. eventually the coolant temperature will rise enough to move the needle in the oem cluster.

Why? In part, due to the tiny turbine, yes. But also because the compressor is tiny and puts out alot of heat also. basically the tiny journal bearing turbocharger is not up to the challenge without some help from an oil cooler and an aftermarket radiator. Simple enough.

That guy bought the car to re-sell. I was trying to keep from flat out saying "he is abusing the vehicle on the highway that is why the gauge is moving" but now that hes actually sold it, I guess its ok to point that out.

[Sileighty_85]

I like where you are going with this. As an example, use a redtop.

Take a redtop on the highway and repeatedly blast it to 100mph and back to 60mph. do it once. twice. three times. watch the coolant temperature start to rise. with me so far? keep on doing it. again and again and again. eventually the coolant temperature will rise enough to move the needle in the oem cluster.

Why? In part, due to the tiny turbine, yes. But also because the compressor is tiny and puts out alot of heat also. basically the tiny journal bearing turbocharger is not up to the challenge without some help from an oil cooler and an aftermarket radiator. Simple enough.

That guy bought the car to re-sell. I was trying to keep from flat out saying "he is abusing the vehicle on the highway that is why the gauge is moving" but now that hes actually sold it, I guess its ok to point that out.


I HAVE done that Never had an issue. probably 10+ 180's and Silvia in the past 10 years of me being in and out of Japan

Not to mention drifted them without an issue.

[Kingtal0n]

I HAVE done that Never had an issue. probably 10+ 180's and Silvia in the past 10 years of me being in and out of Japan

Not to mention drifted them without an issue.

You HAVE done that, and so have I, hundreds of times, and never had an issue. the temperature gauge moving up a little bit is not a big issue. Remember it was a zenki gauge with a redtop engine; we have NO idea what the actual coolant temperature was. There is no water temp gauge in the vehicle. It was never overheating. ALL turbocharged engines will experince a slight rise in coolant temperature when you lay into them repeatedly. ALL of them. if the given coolant system is up the challenge, the coolant temp will level off at some point. We cant actually see if my car's coolant temp actually leveled off at some point because we have no gauge.

[Kingtal0n]

also keep in mind it had the oem thermostat which is something like 195*F. If the coolant temp rises a mere 15*F that would probably move the gauge in the cluster some. And a 15*F rise in coolant temperature is an acceptable expected number for a redtop being abused on the highway with an OEM radiator especially.

now, on to the real issue. A 3600-3900rpm cruise is a BAD THING for many engines. That could eat up the rod bearings over time. I am sorry if you disagree but this is a matter of opinion. No I have no personally run a redtop at 3900rpm for 150k miles and proven this; I could be wrong. But why take the chance? I am conservative when it comes to these engines. I want them to last forever. To make sure that happens, I would only run mine at 3000rpm maybe 3200rpm tops. I baby it because I want it to last. I wouldn't even spin it past 5500rpm. If you care about something, don't abuse it, amirite?

That engine was tight and clean. the oil came out looking like it went in. it stayed like that because I took care of it.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/95_redtop/P1110565.jpg

[Kingtal0n]

picture from before I started it for the first time, 4 years ago.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/95_redtop/P1100221.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/95_redtop/P1100223.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/95_redtop/PA221309.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/95_redtop/PA2213072.jpg

[fliprayzin240sx]

Wow, this thread just went full retarded...the fucks is the point of building these cars if you wont rev them pass 5500 rpm?

[Kingtal0n]

Oh I will rev an sr20 to 8k np np. Just not an OEM redtop that I daily.

heres me tuning one of my many sr20 on the dyno.
It hits 8k a few times. and 400+ horsepower.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/th_jaylong_zps8f6e193b.jpg (http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/draglarry/jaylong_zps8f6e193b.mp4)

Most people do not seem to understand, there is a time and a place for performance, and a stock redtop is not that place.

[Bmxer300zx]

Man, wtf are you babbling about? If your worried about keeping the rpms below 3600 and disconnecting the turbo to stop the motor from overheating you sir need to buy a fucking honda and DD that.
Ooh I cruise at 3500 rpms on highway for a few years never once came close to overheating and my engine under rocker covers are cleaner than that.
Fyi clean that swap up looks like a first time slop shop swap

[b4l]

If you guys are done with this other stuff you are talking about.

I wanted to say that my car started for like 5 sec then shut off at first the fuel pressure was at 55 ish then it diped down to 20ish and now the car does not want to start.

so i added a fuel pump to the list. i hope this takes car of the problem

[Sileighty_85]

You HAVE done that, and so have I, hundreds of times, and never had an issue. the temperature gauge moving up a little bit is not a big issue. Remember it was a zenki gauge with a redtop engine; we have NO idea what the actual coolant temperature was. There is no water temp gauge in the vehicle. It was never overheating. ALL turbocharged engines will experince a slight rise in coolant temperature when you lay into them repeatedly. ALL of them. if the given coolant system is up the challenge, the coolant temp will level off at some point. We cant actually see if my car's coolant temp actually leveled off at some point because we have no gauge.


I love how your story continues to change, Now it doesn't really overheat cuz you failed to install a $10 part from autozone.



also keep in mind it had the oem thermostat which is something like 195*F. If the coolant temp rises a mere 15*F that would probably move the gauge in the cluster some. And a 15*F rise in coolant temperature is an acceptable expected number for a redtop being abused on the highway with an OEM radiator especially.

now, on to the real issue. A 3600-3900rpm cruise is a BAD THING for many engines. That could eat up the rod bearings over time. I am sorry if you disagree but this is a matter of opinion. No I have no personally run a redtop at 3900rpm for 150k miles and proven this; I could be wrong. But why take the chance? I am conservative when it comes to these engines. I want them to last forever. To make sure that happens, I would only run mine at 3000rpm maybe 3200rpm tops. I baby it because I want it to last. I wouldn't even spin it past 5500rpm. If you care about something, don't abuse it, amirite?

That engine was tight and clean. the oil came out looking like it went in. it stayed like that because I took care of it.



Wow you don't even know when the OEM thermo opens at correctly.. The OEM thermo opens at 170*F not 195*F

What is so bad about 3,600+rpms? Do little magical elves form and start hammering on Rod bearings?

If 3,600 rpm harmful to the engine why did Nissan set the rev limiter to 7,500 RPM and not 3,600?

Why is it that every SR in the states not suffer from this bearing failure issue?

If 3,600 was such an issue then they would have all died a long time ago.

You do know when you get engines to "swap" you get the bottom of the barrel engines (much like the majority of the US) that were at one point missiles that were beat the fuck out of on a weekly basis until the chassis was too bad to drive, especially if an American owned it, cuz 70% of the time they never changed the oil in it.

It's impossible to make an engine last forever without rebuilding it.

Yeah oil tends to look cleaner longer when you drop the lower pan and clean out all the left over oil that doesn't come out during a regular oil change.

Mine looks like that too after drift events and my 400+ mile trips for 7 hours straight.


Oh I will rev an sr20 to 8k np np. Just not an OEM redtop that I daily.

heres me tuning one of my many sr20 on the dyno.
It hits 8k a few times. and 400+ horsepower.


Most people do not seem to understand, there is a time and a place for performance, and a stock redtop is not that place.


Why not a Red top? You do know that all RWD SRs use the exact same internals right?You probably didnt though.

Time and a place? a Red top is not a place? the fuck are you smoking?

Why is it that my customers running stock bottom ends and a GT2871R that DD them and drift them not have any issues in Louisiana 100+ heat?


I dont think one person has agreed with any of your crack pot theories, So obliviously you are wrong in every aspect

[Sileighty_85]

If you guys are done with this other stuff you are talking about.

I wanted to say that my car started for like 5 sec then shut off at first the fuel pressure was at 55 ish then it diped down to 20ish and now the car does not want to start.

so i added a fuel pump to the list. i hope this takes car of the problem

For starters your fuel pressure is too low....Raise it to 42 with vac disconnected.....

[b4l]

For starters your fuel pressure is too low....Raise it to 42 with vac disconnected.....


why would it be high at first then go low. also the hummmmming that the pump does at the start well it just stoped doing that. can that be because the filter was dirty. i live in the desert and its been 1.5 years since i crank it over been building this car for a long time. and also this setup was on another member car so the fpr should already be set

[Sileighty_85]

why would it be high at first then go low. also the hummmmming that the pump does at the start well it just stoped doing that. can that be because the filter was dirty. i live in the desert and its been 1.5 years since i crank it over been building this car for a long time. and also this setup was on another member car so the fpr should already be set

It is possible. Either low fuel in tank or fuel pump is dying

Never trust others ppl work, How do you know the PO knew what they were doing.

[b4l]

It is possible. Either low fuel in tank or fuel pump is dying

Never trust others ppl work, How do you know the PO knew what they were doing.

he works at a ligit shop

also i do have low fuel but i did put 2 gallons

can it be the filter that is fucking it up. and the buzzing that the fuel pump does just stoped.

[Bmxer300zx]

Buy a $14 z32 fuel filter at the auto parts store if you even have to worry about it. Also check the bag on the pumb maybe its clogged if you have a dirty tank. As far as wiring its simple if you need to check hardwire it and see if it works could be bad grounds or not seeing proper voltage. Another is get a multi meter even a cheap $20 one is better than assuming its wired right.

[b4l]

Buy a $14 z32 fuel filter at the auto parts store if you even have to worry about it. Also check the bag on the pumb maybe its clogged if you have a dirty tank. As far as wiring its simple if you need to check hardwire it and see if it works could be bad grounds or not seeing proper voltage. Another is get a multi meter even a cheap $20 one is better than assuming its wired right.

A z32 fuel filer would not work on my an lines but im going to try the other stuff you are saying as soon as i get back from school.

[b4l]

also forgot to ask if anyone have a pic of the fuel lines that two metal lines that head to the bottom of the car just to make sure i connected the lines right. a pic would be cool. thanks

[b4l]

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss86/mibave/20130528_112742_zpsfc498b71.jpg

[Kingtal0n]

I love how your story continues to change, Now it doesn't really overheat cuz you failed to install a $10 part from autozone.

A proper coolant temperature sensor + autometer gauge is more than $10. I would have welded the fitting into the upper coolant outlet, done it right. Didnt feel like it, because, wasnt necessary. Car was never giving me any trouble or reason to. I am not surprised you think a $10 part belongs on a Nissan engine. its easy to point fingers and poke fun on the internet.




Wow you don't even know when the OEM thermo opens at correctly.. The OEM thermo opens at 170*F not 195*F

Again, dont really care. never had any trouble so why bother it? I could have googled the temp if I wanted.


What is so bad about 3,600+rpms? Do little magical elves form and start hammering on Rod bearings?

If 3,600 rpm harmful to the engine why did Nissan set the rev limiter to 7,500 RPM and not 3,600?

How does this make any sense. Nobody is cruising at 7,000rpm, so I am not sure what you are trying to say. I already said its a matter of opinion, drive your engine the way you want to. Ill drive mine the way I want to. Build a couple SR20's, RB's, 2j's, V8's, learn a thing or two about rotating mass and physics, and maybe you wont want to cruise at 3500+ anymore either.



Why is it that every SR in the states not suffer from this bearing failure issue?

If 3,600 was such an issue then they would have all died a long time ago.

LOL where have you been? last time I checked, the majority of swapped SR20's, especially redtops, suffer piston ring and/or bearing failure. They are a dying breed.



It's impossible to make an engine last forever without rebuilding it.

Oh, so if I rebuild an engine, it will last forever? Thats what you just said. It must be true cause you said it.


Yeah oil tends to look cleaner longer when you drop the lower pan and clean out all the left over oil that doesn't come out during a regular oil change.

Mine looks like that too after drift events and my 400+ mile trips for 7 hours straight.

the truth is, oil color is no indication of oil quality. you need to send it somewhere if you really want to know how much life is left.



Why not a Red top? You do know that all RWD SRs use the exact same internals right?You probably didnt though.

what does the internals of any engine have anything to do with the turbocharger on it? or the camshaft profile? You clearly misunderstand my point. again.


Why is it that my customers running stock bottom ends and a GT2871R that DD them and drift them not have any issues in Louisiana 100+ heat?


Talk is cheap. I posted up 10+ SR20DET swaps, pictures and plenty of dyno graphs and even videos that include tuning and air/fuel curves of my stuff... and all youv'e done is run your mouth. talk talk talk.

Keep talking. Im sure it makes you feel better. Post up some videos of engines you've built and tuned.

[b4l]

IF you are not trying to help me with my swap take that smack talk somewere else. im trying to get my swap running. since you have over 10 swaps then post you'r help on here and stop fucking up my thread.

:picardfp:

[cotbu]

Usually the fuel on the aeromotive units, flows in to the sides and out through the bottom. Maybe it doesn't matter with your model? just saying!;)

If your unsure of which line is which(feed or return)? Put hoses on both. place hoses in separate bottle/bucket, prime the pump. the one with fuel is the feed. And should go directly to the fuel rail. The other line should go to the bottom of the regulator.

[b4l]

Thats the way it was sent to me but thats a great answer. Im going to googel that right now thanks.

[cotbu]

I edited that post for the confirmation of fuel lines too!

[b4l]

I looked at my friends car and the fuel lines match up im not going to have a chance to mess with it today. :( I will wake up early and work on the car then and test something first then

the only thing I have check so far is the fuel pump it self. It works great so thats off the list.

[b4l]

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss86/mibave/ituhfgjkd_zps60a034a6.gif

the way i have it setup.

[Sileighty_85]

A proper coolant temperature sensor + autometer gauge is more than $10. I would have welded the fitting into the upper coolant outlet, done it right. Didnt feel like it, because, wasnt necessary. Car was never giving me any trouble or reason to. I am not surprised you think a $10 part belongs on a Nissan engine. its easy to point fingers and poke fun on the internet.

No but a S14 Coolant temp sensor cost about $10 from autozone. It'll read more accurate then what you had in there.



Again, dont really care. never had any trouble so why bother it? I could have googled the temp if I wanted.
uhh yeah you did have trouble if you went a certain speed/RPM.

How does this make any sense. Nobody is cruising at 7,000rpm, so I am not sure what you are trying to say. I already said its a matter of opinion, drive your engine the way you want to. Ill drive mine the way I want to. Build a couple SR20's, RB's, 2j's, V8's, learn a thing or two about rotating mass and physics, and maybe you wont want to cruise at 3500+ anymore either.
wow you are dumb, let me break it down into Florida language: YOU SAID 3,600 RPM IS BAD FOR SR ENGINE, If SO WHY DIDN'T NISSAN SET REV LIMITER AT 3,600?

LOL dude ive been working and building SR/RB/1J/2Z/4AG for the last 10 years


LOL where have you been? last time I checked, the majority of swapped SR20's, especially redtops, suffer piston ring and/or bearing failure. They are a dying breed.
Ive been here for the last 6 years and obliviously a more active member than you, and this whole time I've see ppl spin bearings more in KAs than SRs. Only time Ive seen someone with a spun SR bearing is when they do something stupid (improper tune) or improper bearing clearances when being built.

Maybe they are a dying breed down there in Florida, because Florida retards keep blowing them up or ya'lls importers buy shit engines.


Oh, so if I rebuild an engine, it will last forever? Thats what you just said. It must be true cause you said it. Uhhh yeah if you rebuild it when it needs to be before bearing failure it can almost last forever. Or you can just replace the crank and re sleeve they block when the OEM sleeve wear out from over boring .


the truth is, oil color is no indication of oil quality. you need to send it somewhere if you really want to know how much life is left.
Who said anything about an oil cooler? the fuck is wrong with you?

what does the internals of any engine have anything to do with the turbocharger on it? or the camshaft profile? You clearly misunderstand my point. again.You said you wouldnt beat on a OEM red top, why not? same internals/valve train as S14/15 SR's.

Talk is cheap. I posted up 10+ SR20DET swaps, pictures and plenty of dyno graphs and even videos that include tuning and air/fuel curves of my stuff... and all youv'e done is run your mouth. talk talk talk.

Keep talking. Im sure it makes you feel better. Post up some videos of engines you've built and tuned. lol I dont have to prove shit to you, im fairly known on here to any of the ppl that follow build threads, I have 4 build threads of my own on here so if you wanna know you can search yourself.

I have a SR AE86 swap i literally slapped together in a parking lot with left over parts from customers thats more reliable than your cars. I never had any issues cruising on the interstate and drifting it on the track with my Red Top with a T25 running at 3,600 rpms and it had a junkyard radiator in it for a while.

So yeah, this is no longer amusing beating this horse. So have a nice day.

[Sileighty_85]

IF you are not trying to help me with my swap take that smack talk somewere else. im trying to get my swap running. since you have over 10 swaps then post you'r help on here and stop fucking up my thread.

:picardfp:


dude if you cant figure out which line fuel come out of you have bigger problems.

Heres a hint, undo all 3 lines apply power to pump which ever line shoots fuel out goes to the rail

why the fuck is there a fuel filter on the FPR?

[b4l]

dude if you cant figure out which line fuel come out of you have bigger problems.

Heres a hint, undo all 3 lines apply power to pump which ever line shoots fuel out goes to the rail

why the fuck is there a fuel filter on the FPR?

Thats how they sent it to me.

Thats the fuel supply line
same reason you have one in your car.
I already know were the lines go. Im going to check wiring next
The black/pink wire I think it got lose. Or something from there

[b4l]

SR20DET Swap Engine Harness Wiring Diagram Guide SR SR20 (http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine-Harness-Wiring-Diagram-Guide-SR-SR20_t_26.html)

[Sileighty_85]

Thats how they sent it to me.

Thats the fuel supply line
same reason you have one in your car.
I already know were the lines go. Im going to check wiring next
The black/pink wire I think it got lose. Or something from there

Thats totally wrong.

The FPR goes on the return side of the system only.

The FPR regulates pressure in the rail by restricting the fuel going to the tank.

They way you have it set up is its regulating the fuel pump pressure in between the pump and the FPR witch is pointless

It should go, pump>filter>Rail>FPR>tank

where does the fuel coming out of your rail going?

[b4l]

the way this guy had it setup im beliving its the same hose. aka the green line in my pic.

thats why im on this fourm asking questions
i have never setup a an fuel before so i just put it how he had it.

[b4l]

ok guys so I took a quick look before i start to cook for my kids and the fuse is poped. So now i need to find out why it would pop then put in a new fuse.

[ShadowMan]

Here's how your FPR should be set up. I can't tell from your pic exactly whats going on. Bottom line goes to the return line to the fuel tank, the line to the left is coming from the fuel rail, the other port is blocked off in this pic. You can run the line from the fuel rail to either left or right port as long as the opposite one is blocked off. This off the rail style FPR is after the fuel rail. So the order should be fuel pump-feed line-fuel rail-FPR-return line. You only use both ports if you have 2 fuel rails i.e. V6, V8, or V how ever many cylinders you have, or the fuel pressure gauge is fed from the 2nd port directly.
http://imageshack.us/a/img269/3474/p4230461.jpg

[b4l]

ok guys my car is geting fuel now i fix that during the week. only now my car still does not want to turn on. i check to see if ecu has power and it does, checked each wire to each sensor one by one and they all have power, now when i was checking for power i had left the key to the on position and my coil was melting any ideas

[b4l]

it was coil number 4 or the one closest to the radiator. that coil was burning hot when i tryed to turn it on and then it melted

[b4l]

Here's how your FPR should be set up. I can't tell from your pic exactly whats going on. Bottom line goes to the return line to the fuel tank, the line to the left is coming from the fuel rail, the other port is blocked off in this pic. You can run the line from the fuel rail to either left or right port as long as the opposite one is blocked off. This off the rail style FPR is after the fuel rail. So the order should be fuel pump-feed line-fuel rail-FPR-return line. You only use both ports if you have 2 fuel rails i.e. V6, V8, or V how ever many cylinders you have, or the fuel pressure gauge is fed from the 2nd port directly.
http://imageshack.us/a/img269/3474/p4230461.jpg

oh and thanks for this info it help me out alot

[ShadowMan]

Your welcome. It sucks trying to figure out multiple problems all at once, especially when fixing one issue just leads you to another. As far as that melted coil goes, there is no reason leaving your ignition in the 'ON' postion should melt a coil, (it never happened to mke anyway), unless there is a bigger issue there. I would follow those wires from that coil and see if you can find a short or something. Try and break your problems into 3 catagories in the future to simplify things for yourself, Air-Fuel-Spark. It sounds like it just may be your pump, so install a new like you said and see what happens there. You can just watch the "For Sale" section on here for a few days, someone is always selling those individually or as a set for a price that won't cost you your left nut. I think they are like 80 bucks new depending on who you go through, if you just want to be sure you're getting good ones. Keep going, it'll be worth it when you drive that pig. Plus the feeling that you figured it all out and fixed it yourself instead of paying someone else an obscene amount of money to do it will make it all the sweeter.

[b4l]

i checked about fuel and the car is geting fuel ove 45ps1 the sparkplug smells like gas. spark is an other thing. when i took out my spark plug the car sounded like it was about to fire, and the spark plug was not firing. i checked it with a metter and it has 5v going to each one. could all my coil pack be bad. could this just be a bad cas. the guy i got the engine from on this website says that the cas should be good after all he just took it out from his car not to long ago.

[ShadowMan]

One way to find out if your getting spark and this is how I do it, is to:
1. Find a friend
2. Pull fuel pump fuse
3. Pull a coil out but leave it plugged in, insert a spark plug into coil, hold it close to bare metal on the car but don't touch it to the car, have friend turn car over like he's trying to start it, and watch for the spark.
It's the best way I've found to make sure spark plugs are firing. If you already knew this then my bad, if not then you learned something new. It just sucks because you need a pal and they are not always around. Unless you have a remote start, then you can be your own best friend and tell yourself jokes while you work and get pissed at yourself when you fuck something up.

[b4l]

already did this idea lol. im stumped right now. only thing that i can think of is that i have the wrong harness and will need to start depining shit and get it to were it goes but thats the last thing on my list. another member just told me to check compression if its good then take off fuel rail and check that.

[ShadowMan]

Well you definitely need to make sure you're not flooding your cylinders due to a leaky injector o-ring. You can pull your dip stick and see if it smells like fuel, or pull the rail and injectors to make sure non of the lower o-rings came unseated when you inserted them. If that is the case, it would be a good idea, actually a neccesary idea to pull the fuel pump fuse anyway and give it a couple of dry start priming cycles for like 15 seconds or so, just to let those oil sprayers lube everything back up. You should do that any time the motor has sat for over a week without being started IMO.
So when you checked for spark, were you seeing spark on any of the plugs, or just a couple or just 1? You didn't say. If they are not firing, some contributing factors you could try would be to unplug the connections to your coil packs, the coil pack harness, and the ignitor and spray them with an electrical cleaner, any auto parts store will carry it for a few bucks. I notice sometimes when I unplug the ignitor and plug it back in, the car will misfire because I did not fully seat the plugs into the ignitor. The first time it happened that one stumped me for an hour. Might also be a good idea to go pick up a few extra sets of spark plugs just in case you continue to have flooding problems. Fouled plugs are the source of many headaches and often overlooked. Hope any of this helping, I want to see this pig fire up and snort.

[b4l]

cool thanks i will try all these ideas on monday because we are having a graduation party 2maro. thanks and well update when i get the chance. if anyone else has ideas plz post thanks

[Sileighty_85]

it was coil number 4 or the one closest to the radiator. that coil was burning hot when i tryed to turn it on and then it melted


No offense man, but I think you are in over your head if you don't know the proper cylinder locations.

[b4l]

No offense man, but I think you are in over your head if you don't know the proper cylinder locations.

Ha look i could get all tech sawy and put shit from fsm, but ant nobody have time for that. so if your going to say something like that plz keep it in your head and unsubsribe to this thread.

[Sileighty_85]

lol being tech savy is calling componets what they really are?

if you go to a mechanic and tell him to replace the #4 coil pack and when you really need #1 replaced and shit still doesnt work right, im pretty sure your gonna wish you were "tech savy".