View Full Version : 1jz crank no start
onlydrinkkoolaid
03-30-2013, 11:10 AM
To start off with its a 1995 240sx automatic with a 1jz swap out of a soarer. The harness service was done by Chasebays wired for a Mk3 supra ecu and as far as I know all the ecu connectors are correct. My first issue is I'm not getting power to the fuel pump but I have checked the fuel pump by wiring it directly into the battery and it pumps fluid through the fuel rail. My second issue is that even after I have powered the fuel pump while cranking the car it still wont turn over. The only time it sound likes it wants to start is when I spray starting fluid in the Throttle body. So far I have checked all fuses and relays and replaced the bad ones but still no start.
di-devol
03-30-2013, 11:16 AM
To start off with its a 1995 240sx automatic with a 1jz swap out of a soarer. The harness service was done by Chasebays wired for a Mk3 supra ecu and as far as I know all the ecu connectors are correct. My first issue is I'm not getting power to the fuel pump but I have checked the fuel pump by wiring it directly into the battery and it pumps fluid through the fuel rail. My second issue is that even after I have powered the fuel pump while cranking the car it still wont turn over. The only time it sound likes it wants to start is when I spray starting fluid in the Throttle body. So far I have checked all fuses and relays and replaced the bad ones but still no start.
What fuses were bad that you had to replace?
onlydrinkkoolaid
03-30-2013, 11:58 AM
just the starter signal fuse
onlydrinkkoolaid
03-30-2013, 05:12 PM
Alright so far I checked for voltage at the Coil Packs, TPS, MAP and I have 12.0v at each one with the battery having 12.4v. I have no voltage at the Crank Sensor and Cam sensors
RaNMaN
03-31-2013, 08:25 AM
Alright so far I checked for voltage at the Coil Packs, TPS, MAP and I have 12.0v at each one with the battery having 12.4v. I have no voltage at the Crank Sensor and Cam sensors
you're not supposed to have dc voltage at the cam and crank sensors, they're reluctor sensors and they output an analog signal shaped like a sine wave. however you do need to have continuity between the sensor connector and the ecu connector for each of the sensors.
what ecu are you using, i'm assuming its stock?
if the ecu doesn't see both the cam and the crank sensor it will not fire the igniter.
tukn9s
03-31-2013, 08:56 AM
When I did my swap, I ended up hard wiring the fuel pump cause the ecu wasn't sending a single to the pump, try that to see if it will fire.
onlydrinkkoolaid
03-31-2013, 11:26 AM
you're not supposed to have dc voltage at the cam and crank sensors, they're reluctor sensors and they output an analog signal shaped like a sine wave. however you do need to have continuity between the sensor connector and the ecu connector for each of the sensors.
what ecu are you using, i'm assuming its stock?
if the ecu doesn't see both the cam and the crank sensor it will not fire the igniter.
Yes, its a stock JZA70 ecu and didn't know that about the analog signal shaped like a sine wave. So should I just switch my multimeter to Ohms and check the connectors and look for continuity? Also, on main harness chassis connector I have no voltage going to the m63 plug which means I'll be calling Chasebays Monday morning about that.
When I did my swap, I ended up hard wiring the fuel pump cause the ecu wasn't sending a single to the pump, try that to see if it will fire.
I actually tried that and I even replaced the wires coming from the fuel pump connectors and still couldn't get it to turn over. Thats why Im literally checking all the things that could stop a car from turning over hence my plea Zilvia for help.
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