rb25det cuts out at WOT shifting

[squigy]

So to make it short and simple, when im WOT and i go to shift from 1st to second or lets say 3rd to 4th, it will hesitate or it will cut out like im not even on the throttle for a second or 2 maybe 3 untill i let off the gas and get back on it or sometimes it will catch itsself

Spark plugs are fine
fuels at 50+ PSI
stock ecu no piggy back or anything, but i figure it still should run fine, just rich
big turbo
full bolts on
stock rail/injectors

anything is key information!

[fliprayzin240sx]

You have a big turbo, stock injectors and no ECU tune...bad combo...

[rwtf]

i find it so stupid when people upgrade there shit with stock tune and wonder why there car isnt running right....i'm like wtf really come on dont be stupid...

[squigy]

it cuts out shifting after WOT, if that is the issue then you should kindly say that and not put negative shit on here, thats why i made a thread, to see if anyone else saw the lack of a tune the issue.

PS: the car runs perfect just driving and shifting at ' Legal ' speeds and i can give it a little more throttle.

[Sileighty_85]

Sounds like a TUNE-ing issue....

[slideslidegnarslide]

Any time you upgrade the turbo or turn up the boost. You need a tune. I can almost garuantee that cut out your feeling is detonation. Your doing irreversible damage to your motor. I wouldn't even drive this car again with out fuel injectors and a tune. Or it is going to blow up.

[EnemyS15]

Must be new to the car game. Don't see why you need to throw a thread up if its such an obvious answer. Go back to a stock turbo and abuse that.

[squigy]

Must be new to the car game. Don't see why you need to throw a thread up if its such an obvious answer. Go back to a stock turbo and abuse that.

na i've had 6 240's alone. Im trying to get the car running good before i go and tune it and then dump a couple grand into it. So maybe you should read before you talk bro, wouldnt it make sense to work out all kinks before you go and waste money?

[EnemyS15]

wouldn't it make sense to upgrade certain components of a car when you decide to throw on a "BIG TURBO" on a stock tune, fuel, etc? Common sense much? or is this another built by ghetto 240???

you have had 6 240's ... cause you blew up each one with bad buildings? lol

[slideslidegnarslide]

Your problems will be straightened out after the tune. The symptoms you have are from lack of a tune. Get injectors and take the car straight to a tuner.

[OrangeVirus1]

that cut out could be because it is running too LEAN in boost. If you go above like 13.5-14.0 AFR in boost it can cut out like that from being too LEAN ( BAD )

Another thing it could be is that you are maxing out your maf ( if it is possible on these cars I do not know yet ) but Usually ( from what i've seen ) when you max out MAF's the ecu cuts fuel ( or ignition )..

either way Everyone on here is giving you the right advice. TUNE it. Everyone who knows even a little about turbo engines and tuning knows that you CANNOT simply just throw a big turbo on an engine, on stock tune and expect it to be happy.

I can almost guarantee it you are Lean in boost, and hurting your engine. it may run rich OUT of boost ( from the higher fuel pressure ) but IN boost is a different story.
what size turbo is your "big turbo" and how much boost are you pushing?
How do you know that the stock Injectors can even handle what you are pushing?


Please listen to everyone who is giving you the right advice, switch back to stock turbo, or save some money for a new motor.

Oh one big key thing some people don't know. Your engine can be detonating like a MoFo and you can not audibly hear anything at all. it isn't always rocks in a tin can type of sound. there is silent detonation ( to the human ear ) and it does just as much damage. Your engine could sound fine, sound no different then any other day, and still be picking up 10+ knock counts and the ecu can only do so much, The ecu only retards timing AFTER detonation occurs, not before :)

[liveordie72089]

Other than the obvious tune and injectors, I would look into upgrading your fuel pump to a Walboro 255LPH fuel pump. Do a boost leak test if you are running a front mount without T-bolt clamps. I know you said your spark plugs are good but, check that the gap is .08. My R33 would cut out at boost because my spark plugs weren't gaped correctly. Another thing you can check for is any loose wires. Check your maf plug grounds etc. Hope this helps.

[squigy]

wouldn't it make sense to upgrade certain components of a car when you decide to throw on a "BIG TURBO" on a stock tune, fuel, etc? Common sense much? or is this another built by ghetto 240???

you have had 6 240's ... cause you blew up each one with bad buildings? lol

bro you can hate as much as you want , its a clean shell and a clean swap, im asking a simple question to see if it just the tune, or if someone had something else to contribute to check.
Also my last 6 240's
Traded up from each one to get to what i have now, and i was running a stinger stand alone and an haltech on 2 previous ones.

Prior to me even being able to daily this car , i was still trying to get it running so i was still diagnosing it without putting in my 750 cc injectors and aem fuel rail.
Please , kindly fuck off my thread, thank you =)

that cut out could be because it is running too LEAN in boost. If you go above like 13.5-14.0 AFR in boost it can cut out like that from being too LEAN ( BAD )

Another thing it could be is that you are maxing out your maf ( if it is possible on these cars I do not know yet ) but Usually ( from what i've seen ) when you max out MAF's the ecu cuts fuel ( or ignition )..

either way Everyone on here is giving you the right advice. TUNE it. Everyone who knows even a little about turbo engines and tuning knows that you CANNOT simply just throw a big turbo on an engine, on stock tune and expect it to be happy.

I can almost guarantee it you are Lean in boost, and hurting your engine. it may run rich OUT of boost ( from the higher fuel pressure ) but IN boost is a different story.
what size turbo is your "big turbo" and how much boost are you pushing?
How do you know that the stock Injectors can even handle what you are pushing?


Please listen to everyone who is giving you the right advice, switch back to stock turbo, or save some money for a new motor.

Oh one big key thing some people don't know. Your engine can be detonating like a MoFo and you can not audibly hear anything at all. it isn't always rocks in a tin can type of sound. there is silent detonation ( to the human ear ) and it does just as much damage. Your engine could sound fine, sound no different then any other day, and still be picking up 10+ knock counts and the ecu can only do so much, The ecu only retards timing AFTER detonation occurs, not before :)

definitely hear you and i know it needs a tune, its just a 50 trim , and im boosing a little to much, i stay out of it for the most part, i need to change out the wastegate spring for my 38mm turbosmart streetgate.

[squigy]

Other than the obvious tune and injectors, I would look into upgrading your fuel pump to a Walboro 255LPH fuel pump. Do a boost leak test if you are running a front mount without T-bolt clamps. I know you said your spark plugs are good but, check that the gap is .08. My R33 would cut out at boost because my spark plugs weren't gaped correctly. Another thing you can check for is any loose wires. Check your maf plug grounds etc. Hope this helps.

yea im running a 300 walboro and ive sealed up the boost leaks at the throttle body and a stripped clamp off my FMIC, spark plugs are ngk and i gapped them to .08 already.

[OrangeVirus1]

One other thing, I don't know what size injectors you are using, but if they are stock, remember that these are old tired injectors and probably flow way less then what they Did Originally. Tuning really isn't THAT hard, if you tune the fuel only it's easy.
pick up a SAFC, or ( one I really like ) an AEM FIC. ( or the Greddy Emanage Ultimate works too
the Fueling table for the AEM FIC is very very user friendly and super easy to learn, and you could be saving your engine in the process and making more power off that 50 trim!
the best part is the AEM FIC will even create a base fuel table that you can use that is pretty spot on, and you just need to adjust the %'s

If you decide to use an AEM FIC, please feel free to pm me I have used the fic alot

[EnemyS15]

bro you can hate as much as you want , its a clean shell and a clean swap, im asking a simple question to see if it just the tune, or if someone had something else to contribute to check.
Also my last 6 240's
Traded up from each one to get to what i have now, and i was running a stinger stand alone and an haltech on 2 previous ones.

Prior to me even being able to daily this car , i was still trying to get it running so i was still diagnosing it without putting in my 750 cc injectors and aem fuel rail.
Please , kindly fuck off my thread, thank you =)

Damn playa, you got all that cool ass garbage talk and you don't know the basic fundamentals?

BRB gonna take off my injectors and my haltech, slap on a t70, bogg and cut off, come back on here asking a pretty obvious question, and then turn around and say "yeah I knew that, just wanted to see what you all thought" :picardfp:


nm... just saw he is from florida. explains it all. My bad broz. Carry on!

[OrangeVirus1]

just saw he is from florida. explains it all. My bad broz. Carry on!

:bowrofl: the funniest thing.. is that so many people ( even me at one time ) think that you could just slap on a huge turbo, hit 30+psi and call it a day

[squigy]

Damn playa, you got all that cool ass garbage talk and you don't know the basic fundamentals?

BRB gonna take off my injectors and my haltech, slap on a t70, bogg and cut off, come back on here asking a pretty obvious question, and then turn around and say "yeah I knew that, just wanted to see what you all thought" :picardfp:


nm... just saw he is from florida. explains it all. My bad broz. Carry on!

Because you miss interpret what I'm asking is your fault not mine, and contradicting yourself isn't good either, you silly Floridian. I'm not trying to pick fights here, i have my car and my problems and you have your car and your problems, at the end of the day here I'm trying to see past my car needing a tune, its blatantly obvious i need a tune, I'm running full bolts on with a stock ecu.

Sorry lets start again...

I KNOW I NEED A TUNE but is there anything besides that that can suggest my cutting out AT HIGHER BOOST SHIFTING.
Thank you :fawk2:
:bowrofl: the funniest thing.. is that so many people ( even me at one time ) think that you could just slap on a huge turbo, hit 30+psi and call it a day

That's obviously just asking for trouble, im diagnosing the car from it not even running, which i didn't explain in here but before idiots jump to conclusions about the car not needing anything else except a tune. Before i spend the money on an ecu management i am looking to work out all the kinks and bugs the car has just running normally on the streets to decide whether or not im going to keep it or its another money pit project. can you blame me? :facepalm:

[squigy]

One other thing, I don't know what size injectors you are using, but if they are stock, remember that these are old tired injectors and probably flow way less then what they Did Originally. Tuning really isn't THAT hard, if you tune the fuel only it's easy.
pick up a SAFC, or ( one I really like ) an AEM FIC. ( or the Greddy Emanage Ultimate works too
the Fueling table for the AEM FIC is very very user friendly and super easy to learn, and you could be saving your engine in the process and making more power off that 50 trim!
the best part is the AEM FIC will even create a base fuel table that you can use that is pretty spot on, and you just need to adjust the %'s

If you decide to use an AEM FIC, please feel free to pm me I have used the fic alot

I do have a normal Greddy Emanage with a map sensor, but i havent heard the greatest feedback with them on the rb25's.

One problem i was having was 1 injector was completely destroyed and stuck open,it would obviously bog down and smoke white due to the gas pouring in the back of the turbo housing and dumping out the exhaust. I'm running stock 370 injectors and i have swapped out 1 of them and that was one of my biggest issues with just getting the car started, because I checked to make sure none were leaking while the car wasn't solid, but after sealing everything up the pressure finally caused one to just give out.

[OrangeVirus1]

you should still be able to get something done with that Emanage. maybe not as much as an ultimate, but it will be better than nothing.
but if you are having injector problems, I'd fix that first.
my plan for my RB20 ( when it gets to my damn house in the next few days!! ) is to swap all the injectors out with Siemens Deka IV 60lb, and tune them on my AEM FIC.

Although maybe you can answer this for me since I do not know, Are stock RB injectors high or low impendance..

and I need to find a damn fuel rail for them that supports 14mm Oringed injectors :S

[squigy]

you should still be able to get something done with that Emanage. maybe not as much as an ultimate, but it will be better than nothing.
but if you are having injector problems, I'd fix that first.
my plan for my RB20 ( when it gets to my damn house in the next few days!! ) is to swap all the injectors out with Siemens Deka IV 60lb, and tune them on my AEM FIC.

Although maybe you can answer this for me since I do not know, Are stock RB injectors high or low impendance..

and I need to find a damn fuel rail for them that supports 14mm Oringed injectors :S

well i don't have injector problems anymore :naughty: i had a set of 4 OEM sr20det injectors sitting in a box and they are high impendance and 370 cc, they fit right up to the stock rb25 fuel rail , not sure about the rb20 but most stuff is interchangable.