BUNCH of CEL codes being thrown... KA24DE OBDII

[outta]

A little of the car's recent history:
I've got a '97 kouki, and the last motor I had started knocking due a year ago to my ignorance to the overheating. Not sure why it overheated, but it did. About two months ago, I bought a replacement motor, slapped my transmission on it (which turned out to be an auto, due to the pilot bushing- PITA) then dropped her in. I noticed rust on the inside of the thermostat housing and the heater hoses, so I put in some Prestone Super Cleaner, which is in right now, and the cooling systems seems to work just fine, no overheating or anything. I'll be draining it tomorrow to finish the cleaning.

The only issues I've noticed was, upon a cold start, I would have to give it some throttle so it wouldn't bog out, but when I do, it idles just fine. Along with feeling a little hesitation in accelerating under load, I figured it might've been the old fuel that was sitting in it for almost a year, or maybe bad injectors... Other than that, I've driven her to work and across town to look for issues. Thinking about trying some fuel treatment or injector cleaners for the throttle hesitation.

This is mostly the whole process of the swap, BUT, the CEL has been on, so today I went to Autozone to check the codes and to my surprise, all of these came up:

P0325 - Knock sensor condition
P0125 - Insufficient engine coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control
P1320 - Ignition Signal
P0100 - MAP / BARO or MAF/VAF sensor condition
P0120 - Air fuel ratio sensor 1 bank 1 circuit
P0141 - H02S12 - heater condition (heated o2 sensor-bank 1 sensor 2)
P1400 - EGRC solenoid valve

I just got back and I'm letting the engine cool some before I take a look at it, but has anyone ever had all of these at once?

Could some of these be from my old engine or would they have been cleared upon removing the battery for a few months?

Could one of these codes possibly be triggering another one?


Any kind of help would be useful, valued, and appreciated beyond imagination.
I really need this car to make a very necessary road trip, very soon.

[outta]

So I drove it a good amount of finals, and only these two codes came up

P0130
P1400

[outta]

Alright, so I replaced my upstream o2 sensor (sensor 1 bank 1) and cleared the codes, now I'm getting 2 codes,

P0135
P0171

The Autozone guy told me I'm running lean, and that I needed a new fuel pressure regulator, and I was told by a friend that eventually my fuel pump might fail or fault. Could any of these be a cause? Also, the fpr seems like a PITA to get to, I've tried to take it off my old KA, which isn't impeded by the firewall, and the screws stripped... any tips on the best approach to get to them?

I've gotten this far but nothing seems to be working to get these codes cleared. I've googled to the point where I can't even have any more tabs on my browser, can anyone help at all?

I'm already set back 2 days because I don't know if my car is in terminal error.. ANY help would be appreciated... doesn't really feel good knowing I can't find any clues on what's causing the CEL, and I sure as heaven don't want to have my car crap out on me in the middle of nowhere on my road trip to be chased down my cannibals...

Again... any help? even a simple "I dont know", "sucks for you", or even "noob" would help me out at this point...

[Tamez10]

Hey, sorry to be kind of late.

What I do always whenever a bolt is stuck on my fuel rail system is to take some vise grips and take the bolt not from the top but from a side and turn a little bit. I am always sure to put some diesel on them to loose them. This works like a charm everytime and my bolts look brand new. After that be sure to replace them with some hex flanged headbolts or an Allen type with a lock washer.

Also you might want to remove the rail from the manifold, it is easier to do. Just remove the 15A fuse of the fuel pump in the engine bay while engine is on and that will remove all pressure. Be careful not to do this when engine is hot, some fuel will be spilled and it may turn gas on fire.

I have opened a FPR internally. There is a small spring, a metal sphere, and the vacuum valve. After more than 90K miles on it, fpr still was working so you might need to replace the fuel pump.