Bogging during boost Sr20det after 0psi runs like crap!

[SilviaT]

I have put about 200 miles on the Sr20det redtop since install. I have been babying it and not seeing boost on purpose until i reach more miles to break the motor in carefully. Now that i am getting more miles, i would like to see 1-4psi occasionaly just to help seat the rings and break in motor. Idle is 1300 cold, 900 warm. Starts right up, revs as high as i want, but it bogs as soooon as i reach 0+PSI on my boost gauge in gear and the it lags like crazy and sputters.. I have ordered a Oil Catch can off ebay since i dont have one already. BUT i am seeing a little bit of oil on my FMIC pipe passenger side.. I tightned up and cleaned the pipes today so hopefully it doesnt make a drip overnight anymore. But why is oil there in the first place?!??!
So all my FMIC and other vaccuum hoses are tight. Everything is clean and put together straight after i installed my freshly rebuilt SR with forged pistons and oem parts. I am running 440cc injectors, new z32 maf that is mapped to my ECU, 9/10psi, new spark plugs, injectors were cleaned before install, coilpacks should be fine but i havent pulled yet. New coolant temp sensor. Wastegate is properly working, greddy RS bov is opening after i shift and after turbo spools. Turbo is Gt28 r off s14 SR. Battery is relocated and connections are great. Oil pressure is good. 02 reading on my apexi turbo timer reads from 2.50/3.00 but bounces around when i drive. Air/Fuel meter is not connected on turbo timer gauge, but reads 40 under the hood on a gauge connected to my FPR..
What could this be????? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Running 92 octane 76 gasoline.
Heres what i have heard to check... TPS, timing (was timed when engine was assembeled) Plugs, coil packs.

[SilviaT]

I'd really appreciate any help here guys..

[godsmack]

i'm going to go with coil packs. if you have a bad coil pack once you start putting an actual load on the motor the bad coil pack will misfire and give you what you have now. and the oil in your fmic is more than likely blow-by. do you have a hose connected from the "valve cover" to the intake pipe for the turbo? if so this is where the oil is coming from.

[steve shadows]

Did you make sure the coilpack harness is properly grounded? It needs to be grounded to the back of the head and the firewall. A lot of times these come lose and you will get this type of issue.

[steve shadows]

Also if you aren't able to go over a certain psi mark it's signs of a vacuum or boost leak as well.

[kilamax03]

spark plugs make sure they are gapped right also what spark plugs are you using...? i had the same bogging issue when i had my sr20det in my 200sx ser

[SilviaT]

Gapped my plugs. Coil packs are fine. Grounded the coil pack grounds (they werent before) Had my ecu checked for codes. Code 34!! Knock sensor.
Tomorrow i'm going to disconnect my battery, do my best on connecting my knock sensor (93 sentra se-r $120 at autozone but got it for $100 from commercial discount through my buddy at Forged Performance)
Reset my ECU and drive! Its been running in LIMP mode sence my knock sensor went bad. Maybe it was from my first start up the engine shook a little bit due to oil circulation. Smooth as a baby now.

[muffler]

im having similar issues in my vg30dett, new fuel pump made it run alot better and now i can boost except for WOT, it will do what you described in the higher rpms.

im going to clean and re gap my plugs, a few might have got fouled out when the injectors went bad.

make sure u have no boost leaks...does it sound like an anti lag rev limiter when it starts sputtering?