SR20 Rod Knock....

[duggyb]

bought this 94 s14 the other day, im a v8 domestic man so this is new to me, but i wanted a project that was fun and different so i grabbed this for something to work on

def sounds like some rod knock, but i know these cars had VCT and other issues


also i know my power steering pump is whining, i think i have a broken line or seal as my tank is overflowing once i shut the car off.

heres a video, what do all you SR20 fanatics think?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4El7H-NLb4&list=UUCl4SmECCMZAvV-GE1yrLdQ&index=1&feature=plcp


im assuming next step is drop the pan and findout whats wrong.

Thanks
Dustin

[duggyb]

anyone know a way to test the VCT gear and solenoid to atleast rule that out?

Thanks
Dustin

[fliprayzin240sx]

If its coming from the head, it might be VTC. If its lower, then rods. Rod knocks become more prominent when you slowly rev it up and it finds its "sweet spot". Usually around 3-4k.

[lucas240sx]

Wow
There is so much noise going on in there
I recently had a knock in my s13 sr20det
I feel that the continuous tapping is a rod knock
I really hope its not!

[duggyb]

If its coming from the head, it might be VTC. If its lower, then rods. Rod knocks become more prominent when you slowly rev it up and it finds its "sweet spot". Usually around 3-4k.

this is whats happening for sure, like certain rpms i can make the knock go away easily, other rpms its very prominent.

[fliprayzin240sx]

I just finally listened to the video...definitely rod knock. Sounds like the oil pump is dead and oil isnt circulating since the head is noisy too.

[jr_ss]

Yeah, that's not sounding happy... Sounds like a damn woodpecker got stuck in your engine.

[duggyb]

yeah took the power steering pump belt off today and got a better idea of the sound,

its rod knock for sure, did some listening underneath and pulled the coils one by one.

the noise your hearing is still the pump, there is no noise in the head, i also pulled the valve cover off today and took a look underneath, everything looks clean and well lubricated.

guess its time to either source a short block or buy a rotating assembly.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Was the oil pan dented? Pushing the pan into the sump is one of the fastest way to kill the engine.

[duggyb]

Was the oil pan dented? Pushing the pan into the sump is one of the fastest way to kill the engine.

was not dented, but you can tell it was leaking hard, which seems to be famous on these things due to their being no gasket, and the FSM calling for sealant, which we all know no one knows how to apply properly to clean surfaces.


it appears it may have been ran dry of oil which caused the bearing to go, yet everything up top looked pretty good.

[duggyb]

still trying to figure out what to do, the ONLY engine i can find around me is $1200 for a s14 longblock, bare and stock,

i feel like i could get this rebuilt for 300-400 more with way better components, what are your guys thoughts? anyone have some experience with this?

Thanks
Dustin

[jr_ss]

You'll be spending 8-1000 on parts alone, plus labor at the machine shop.

[duggyb]

ya thats what i thought, so essentially 1500-1600 after machine shop and parts to rebuild it, i feel like this is maybe a better option because i atleast know what i am getting in the end.

[future]

Blown engine is a call for a full build

[duggyb]

from what i have been reading it seems the stock crank is good on its own already, i am not looking for huge whp numbers, mainly just looking for a reliable car i can track, i have another car as a daily.

what are most guys running for pistons/rod combos? i am just looking to keep stock displacement.

sorry for all the noob questions, i know my v8s but never had RHD and never had a 4 cylinder turbo engine to work with.

i know Kellogs makes good forged cranks for v8 applications, and cp pistons, Manley rods etc

but don't know if its the same for the import stuff,

anyone have input on good bearings/rods/pistons, i also heard stock rods are pretty good.

maybe just get after market pistons/rings, machine the rods and crank for oversized bearings and clean and hone everything up and call it a day?

let me know what you all think!

Thanks.
Dustin

[jr_ss]

For rods either Manley turbo tuff or Golden Eagle. Spool racing has some quality ones too. As for pistons, you have a dozen or so to choose from. CPs are the best on the market right now, but wiseco, je, and mahle are all options.

Make sure the rods have ARP2000 bolts or equivalent.

I have Cosworth bearings in my motor, but a lot of people use ACLs.

Stock rods can handle quite a bit of abuse. If you're looking for lower hp levels less than 400 or even 450, you'll be fine with stock rods with ARPs. Make sure you have them line honed though because the rods get out of round from the higher trq load applied.