SR BUILD ideas????

[grahamhulan]

I have a redtop block pulled apart due to a spun bearing. Any suggestions ideas or pointers as to what I should put back in to help make it a reliable medium power build?! Any input is gladly accepted!

[fliprayzin240sx]

Fresh stock rebuild is good to go...I'd save the money use the money on other stuff.

[grahamhulan]

Alright. That's what my friend was thinking. Thank you. What about intake manis? Any preference?

[DriftNinjah]

Don't do manis!! They don't add enough power to compensate for how unreliable they are! I just fully built my sr20 and I'm going back to the stock mani. That's all just my opinion, experience based, but still just an opinion.

[DriftNinjah]

Oh and make sure you go to a RELIABLE shop to resurface your crank! I had to buy another crank cuz one shop effed my first one up.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Only advantage of getting an aftermarket intake manifold is to clean up the engine a bit. Less clutter and easier to get to the damn oil filter.

[Okinawandrifter87]

Only advantage of getting an aftermarket intake manifold is to clean up the engine a bit. Less clutter and easier to get to the damn oil filter.

Haha not all the time.. but sometimes I wish Zilvia had a like button still..

[4x4le]

Only advantage of getting an aftermarket intake manifold is to clean up the engine a bit. Less clutter and easier to get to the damn oil filter.

Aftermarket ones are more balanced from cyl to cyl than stock once you start making more power.

[lucas240sx]

my redtop spun a main bearing....the block needed a line bore which is about $200 and the bore was still good
The deck of the head was messed from something that got inside the cylineders
I was lucky enough to find a short block from an air force guy and everthing was wraped up individually and sold to me for $500

Had the new block line hone
Bought manely rods from a memeber here along with cp pistons
Bought bc springs and retainers for the head along with being ported

Right now im panting the upper oil pan and intake mani
Next will be the block and head
Hoping to put thw engine in next weekend

[ultimateirving]

my redtop spun a main bearing....the block needed a line bore which is about $200 and the bore was still good
The deck of the head was messed from something that got inside the cylineders
I was lucky enough to find a short block from an air force guy and everthing was wraped up individually and sold to me for $500

Had the new block line hone
Bought manely rods from a memeber here along with cp pistons
Bought bc springs and retainers for the head along with being ported

Right now im panting the upper oil pan and intake mani
Next will be the block and head
Hoping to put thw engine in next weekend

good deal man, sounds like its coming together nicely.
Now wait til its time to get it running, then the REAL fun begins:yum:

[Kingtal0n]

If you are going to simply rebuild it back to OEM, you should just buy another OEM longblock and use that. No sense in taking chances with machine work for an OEM block.

[4x4le]

If you are going to simply rebuild it back to OEM, you should just buy another OEM longblock and use that. No sense in taking chances with machine work for an OEM block.
:duh::smash:

[Kingtal0n]

:duh::smash:

Ok, Ill elaborate.

Except of course in the instance where you have the capability to assemble an OEM bottom end with new components, and such an engine is desired. Some of us just want to get back on the road with anything; some of us want an actually brand newly assembled engine- to OEM specification- in which case you need to do the job yourself in a clean room, or have somebody with a clean room that knows how to use a dial bore gauge do it.

[4x4le]

Ok, Ill elaborate.

Except of course in the instance where you have the capability to assemble an OEM bottom end with new components, and such an engine is desired. Some of us just want to get back on the road with anything; some of us want an actually brand newly assembled engine- to OEM specification- in which case you need to do the job yourself in a clean room, or have somebody with a clean room that knows how to use a dial bore gauge do it.

The nissan dealerships dont go through the ammount of trouble the nissan factory does as far as temperature controlled and humidity controlled assembly when it comes to rebuilds.
Sure proper machining is essential and i have had some issues with getting things right with my 90mm bore, sleeved sr that is also stroked to 92mm, but if he just spun a bearing chances are the cross-hatches are still visible in the bore. A hone and new rings and oem bearings of the right sizes with a good crank (id get one that hasnt spun a bearing from a us spec sr), the block can be decked and the head can be planed and any compitent machine shop can do that. New oem water and oil pump and the engine can be re assembled is a semi-clean garage no problem.

Freak things, bad tunes, random overheating, overboosting/turbo problems, ring washing ect seem to be what takes out most of these engines.

The cost of purchasing a new sr from nissan would be so insanely not worth it i dont even see it as an option.

I have wittnessed many monsters get built in 2 car garages. Most engine failures i see had nothing to do with the way it was assembled (although assembly is important, it probably wont make it around the block if done wrong). Sure no one wants dust in their engine, and it should be avoided, but i dont see some dust particles being worse than the metal that wears out during break in.

[JDMRIDDAZ]

Swap out crank for a fwd crank..it fits
and u can buy it at advanced
i swapped cranks before and used std bearings w no issues
ur in florida..mazworxs is in orlando
sr20det are their specialty..

[Kingtal0n]

The cost of purchasing a new sr from nissan would be so insanely not worth it i dont even see it as an option.

I have wittnessed many monsters get built in 2 car garages. Most engine failures i see had nothing to do with the way it was assembled (although assembly is important, it probably wont make it around the block if done wrong). Sure no one wants dust in their engine, and it should be avoided, but i dont see some dust particles being worse than the metal that wears out during break in.

I just meant he should grab another used sr20det longblock off the shelf for $500~ instead of spending $XXXX on a potentially fatal rebuild.

And I, have seen, failures due to dirty assembly. I guess it depends where you live?