KADET Stalling out

[Jifter]

First off I would like to let you guys know my setup

stock KA24DE
Walbro 255/zx filter
Stock injectors
Stock MAF
SR T25 on stock psi
Ebay bottom mount mani
24" CX racing FMIC
HKS v3 BOV (vented to atmosphere)
8:1 FMU for now

Alright so ever since I turboed my KADE, its been dying when I clutch-in from over 2000rpm. When I clutch-in from 1900rpm, the rpm drops down to like 200rpm and will then rise to 500 (sometimes stays at 500 for like 5 seconds) and then goes back to normal idle at 750-800rpm. If I clutch-in from anything over 2000rpm, it will always stall out.

My wideband reads very lean at idle reading around 16.4-16.8 (brand new AEM EUGO WB). The wideband reads healthy throughout the range while driving (between 10.5-13). So basically my engine is cutting out because its going very lean at idle..

I have already tried cleaning the AIV and MAF with no improvement. I have checked for vacuum leaks with starter fluid but couldn't find any.

I know that I have a very small exhaust leak at the T2 flange but its very light.

Im thinking that my MAF might be bad..? Should I try resetting my ECU? A bad FPR?

I have a drift event coming up in 3 weeks that I'd like to attend (already missed the first one because of this). Any suggestions would be great!

Heres a vid showing the wideband readings

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjDnre3F9uw
Jake

[Tantwoforty]

First off I would like to let you guys know my setup

stock KA24DE
Walbro 255/zx filter
Stock injectors
Stock MAF
SR T25 on stock psi
Ebay bottom mount mani
24" CX racing FMIC
HKS v3 BOV (vented to atmosphere)
8:1 FMU for now

Alright so ever since I turboed my KADE, its been dying when I clutch-in from over 2000rpm. When I clutch-in from 1900rpm, the rpm drops down to like 200rpm and will then rise to 500 (sometimes stays at 500 for like 5 seconds) and then goes back to normal idle at 750-800rpm. If I clutch-in from anything over 2000rpm, it will always stall out.

My wideband reads very lean at idle reading around 16.4-16.8 (brand new AEM EUGO WB). The wideband reads healthy throughout the range while driving (between 10.5-13). So basically my engine is cutting out because its going very lean at idle..

I have already tried cleaning the AIV and MAF with no improvement. I have checked for vacuum leaks with starter fluid but couldn't find any.

I know that I have a very small exhaust leak at the T2 flange but its very light.

Im thinking that my MAF might be bad..? Should I try resetting my ECU? A bad FPR?

I have a drift event coming up in 3 weeks that I'd like to attend (already missed the first one because of this). Any suggestions would be great!

Heres a vid showing the wideband readings

240sx KA24DET Lean Idle problem - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjDnre3F9uw)
Jake

You can reset the ecu just because its easy, have you tried turning your idle up any? or maybe advance the timing alittle.
Id say your BOV is a probable cause but if its really a HKS one then it shouldn't be the issue.

[Jifter]

I can get the problem to go away if I raise the idle to 1500. Thats obviously not the fix though. I have tried messing around with the timing with no luck. I also replaced the IACV the other day with no change at all.

I should mention that after watching my wideband closely, the engine is going very rich after clutch-in (not lean like I said). Because of the rich mixture (10:1) the engine stalls out. I'm still trying to figure out what can cause the extra fuel on clutch-in.. The weird thing is that it idles lean around 16:1..

I disabled the BOV and that helped a bit since it was just venting to atmosphere. I drove the car without the FMU and it ran a bit leaner while driving and still went crazy rich after clutch-in..

Today I cleaned the MAF for the 2nd time and it didn't help. I ran the car without the filter on the MAF and the car was idling very unstable and the car would still die after clutching-in.. I am thinking the MAF was getting bad air readings because the filter wasnt there to "smooth out" the airflow...?

I should also mention that I have changed the spark plugs and wires aswell.

Im thinking about trying a different MAF or ECU if I can find any to try.

Any help would be great. I am running out of ideas.

Jake

[Tantwoforty]

maybe check your tps?
hmm if its going rich, maybe fpr, fpr vaccume source?
maybe injector seals but i doubt it alot
damn.. idk this is a tough one

[Jifter]

I'll do that today. I still havn't messed with the TPS.

I checked my FPR vacuum line and it was fine. I even replaced the line for the heck of it too.

Im also thinking it might be a bad FPR. It might be slow to react to the change in vacuum pressure. I'll pull one out of an altima at the scrap yard. It should have the same FPR I hope.

[Bentleyness]

my kat does the same sometimes, but if i turn on the ac or heat it idles great lol