Lets talk timing....again. SR/idle issues Cold/warm.

[MrFairlady]

Still Diagnosing some Startup issues after Recirculating my BOV setup....car still Bogs a tiny bit when coming to a stop..but its better.

main issue is timing.
What should timing be at,at idle? 15?
Mine according to datascan is 9degrees warmed up @ 1100rpms.
I can press "set idle/timing mode" and it idles down to 800 and its right on 15.

Issue:
Car when cold just cranks up and Idles high/fine for about 10sec's then goes lean and tries to Die.Giving gas it attempts to wake up,then does and idles back up.then Does it 1 more time and then from there....its fine & Drives and Boosts 18-19psi Perfectly!!!
Thats the Only issue I'm having.
No clue where to start other than IACV?

SR20 red,2871,Z32maf,Tomei 256,850cc sard's (I think this is the main Issue),Enthlapy Tune.
Just Started this issue when it started to Warm up Outside.

[cotbu]

Timing should be 15deg at idle, remember if rpm is not stable, timing can't be stable.
that's why we lock the ecu in timing mode.
So say your idle rpm is set at 850rpm, depending on how stable it is usually =/- 50 your timing will change slightly 17 19, 13 14 until idle stabilizes.

Can you bring your idle rpm speed down to say 850rpm, 1100rpm can mask issues like vacuum leaks and incorrectly set TPS or IACV.

Do you know what your k value is and your latency, I'd like to take a look at your entire tune but people get funny about this topic.

I forgot to ask if you had synced the timing?

[MrFairlady]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArNLOBF0FhM&feature=related

This is exactly what Mine does before it Runs great.
Albiet it idles higher than I would like when she's running good (right around 1000)
I agree,..vac leak Spells the issue but I've even smoke tested my car and found nothing.
idle will not go below about 1000 when adjusting IACV.
Only by datascan can I get it down to 850.

I've set the TPS 3 times to 3 diff setting trying to see within the range it likes...if 1 is better than another. TPS was Brand New when i installed it.

I asked Scott about the latency and I have a feeling thats also whats making it run this way.

[0wn3r]

I can't see the video at work, but I swear that's a common SR thing without a good tune. Mine did the same thing, especially in warmer weather with the A/C on. Coming to a stop and clutching in, the idle would drop to the ground almost stalling (it actually did stall a couple times), and if you can catch it and give it gas to bring it up, it would bounce down close to 100-200rpm again when you let off, but would eventually catch and be ok. I looked at so many threads on stalling problems just like this and never found a solid thing that might fix it...and that was much closer to a stock SR at the time than what you have there.

Granted I did injectors, Z32 MAF, and a power FC all at once...but I'm confident the tune is what did it for me. IMO, cold idle should be somewhere around 1500rpm or so, then at warm is around the 800-850rpm at close to -19iNhg.

[cotbu]

Usually if you set the base idle rpm it to 850 in nds and IAVC is at 50% it will raise the Idle rpm to about 900rpm. You should still be able to raise or lower the speed beyond that, +/-300rpm IIRC.<--DQM

Pinch the pvc hose and see if the idle speed slows down, You may have a vacuum leak after the throttle body.
That may help you isolate some issues.
In that video, it seems like that engine is missing some air and or fuel. First I would give it some air, then some fuel. LOL! Then take them away again. I hope you understood that. It would be lame too read the process.

Set your TPS volts to .45v closed
You could also try making the IACV hose longer
I'm also assuming you have the coolant lines connected to the IACV, it does make a difference.

Download the bin and get a few logs, Idle and up to operating temp. I'll load the bin and see if i can duplicate your symptoms

Granted I did injectors, Z32 MAF, and a power FC all at once...but I'm confident the tune is what did it for me. IMO, cold idle should be somewhere around 1500rpm or so, then at warm is around the 800-850rpm at close to -19iNhg.

I agree it's most likely the tune. And initial fire up, is not really idle which is 1500rpm, I think that's what you're seeing and describing as cold idle? Most of my tunes have what is 1300rpm cold idle, and should be 13.5 or so afr. The rest of that quote is true.

[MrFairlady]

what i did notice after messing with it today.
Once warmed up the idle was Lumpy like it can be sometimes on stop and go traffic.....I unplugged the IACV and Boom..Idle smoothed out and was Dead on 15degrees.....though the funny thing was when it was lumpy it was at 15degrees also, but jumped around a tad.
After a sec it would tune in all of a sudden and Hit 15 at idle..but still didn't run as Smooth as with it unplugged.

It was amazing how smooth it idled when I unplugged the IACV.as soon as Id rev it though it would kind of bog and attempt to die untill I bumped it up and even plugged it back in.
I took video on my phone. I'll upload it.
**There was a Weird Hiss (near the 4th Injector/manifold area I think) when I'd plug it in as opposed to when I unplugged it..the noise went away. I sprayed EVERYWHERE thinking it was a leak but I think it was the just the IAC bleeding air.

Damnit - shit is killin me - So a PFC will Clean this up you think? I've been wanting one but need 740cc's 1st. 850's are too much for what I want.

[MrFairlady]

Set your TPS volts to .45v closed

I have it at 38. I use to have it at 45 and Datascan for some reason wouldn't see it was "closed".
So I changed it to 43v and that seemed ok for a few weeks (dec-Jan)..but thats when it started to get warmer out and I went down to 38v and It reads "closed" and all that perfectly.

The Cold start thing is my Biggest thing because Its Consistent everyday now.
today it was weird Duplicating the Stop go traffic - because I got it to idle at 15degrees w/o touching the CAS and after reving it was ok sometimes but if it did even remotely drop it picked up and took a sec,then back to 15. I swear its so damn hit or miss. + i just got it use to the Recirc BOV so maybe its adjusting to that...who knows?

[0wn3r]

I agree it's most likely the tune. And initial fire up, is not really idle which is 1500rpm, I think that's what you're seeing and describing as cold idle? Most of my tunes have what is 1300rpm cold idle, and should be 13.5 or so afr. The rest of that quote is true.

Yea that's probably it. I was trying to remember what mine read and knew it was somewhere in that ballpark. I haven't driven the 240 in about 7 months now so it's been awhile :/ Winter project still isn't complete hah. By cold idle I just meant during initial start while it's trying to warm up and get to operating temp.

I just watched the video, that's actually nothing like I thought. I didn't realize you were getting the stalling right at startup (glossed over that and read some of the bogging portion I guess)

On my S14 SR, I'm using 550's on an S15 turbo at 15psi, but no cams. I can't say if 850's are an 'issue' but they certainly seem like more than enough. Seems like alot of people run 740's, but more importantly it's getting a good tune.

I don't know much about enthalpy. Did you have to adjust it for the recirc?

[KiLLeR2001]

Usually when I fire up my car from a cold start it will idle at 1300 rpms. When fully warmed up a solid 850rpms. I would take out the IACV and clean it up inspect it further, also replace the gasket with new one and check for any intake leaks.