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View Full Version : Need help removing tubes from block


nakedave
04-02-2012, 12:08 PM
Im getting my redtop sr20det cleaned and decke this week. I've got the motor tore down but I can get the tubes off (one on the drivers side from the crankcase, and one for coolant on the passengers side).
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/nakedave/eb504e95.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/nakedave/be435a75.jpg

The shop was worried about getting them off without messing them up. And ideas? Or can I order new tubes? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

GroundPerformance
04-02-2012, 12:45 PM
Find another shop.... Shops I've worked with always take them off for me since they have the proper tools.

nakedave
04-02-2012, 04:24 PM
Well there's not much of a selection around here for shops. I've used them before forehead work and they did a good job. There isn't a shop here in town that has worked on a sr20det. They're more concerned about getting them to seal properly when I comes time to reinstall them.

ShadowMan
04-02-2012, 06:24 PM
I rebuilt my sr a few months back so here's what i did. I took the block into them and they said that i didn't need to even remove the tube in your first picture, said they could work around it and they did, hopefully yours can too. As for the second tube, I used a butane torch (they're like 30 bucks at most hardware stores) and heated the block where the tube slides in, then clamped on a set of vice grips to the thicker part of the tube where it meets the block and slowly twisted them back and forth. When I had a decent gap between the tube and the block, I slid in a flat head screw driver and slowly pried against the tube while continuing to twist with the vice grips and eventually she came right out. As for reinserting it, I put the tube in the freezer ahead of time, at least like 2-3 hours I'd say and reheated the block where it goes with the torch, then just used a wood dowel and a hammer to tap the tube in evenly around the fat part of the tube. Later, while at the car parts store, I saw some liquid gasket type stuff specifically for that to prevent leaking, but it was too late for me i already had it in, so keep that in mind

nakedave
04-02-2012, 07:55 PM
Had any problems with it leaking?

ShadowMan
04-02-2012, 08:37 PM
No leaks as of yet, but I didn't use any kind of sealant, dumb on my part. So if a leak does present itself, it will be my fault. I'm sure any kind of high temp liquid sealant like you would use on your oil pan would work. Someone step in here if I'm wrong but so far its worked for me, I would just use a sealant if I had to do it again. Take your time and when you pry up on it, do it a little at a time from each side, and you should be good.

UNITEDMASTER
04-04-2012, 07:39 PM
To get your block hot tanked ,or any needed machine work those do not need to come off. But if you must,heat, lubricant & vise grips. And to replace heat the same area,but when its time to put back you better be ready.Its kind a one shot deal or do over