FPR Question!

[AdrenalineS14]

Has anybody had any experience with this Regulator? I cant seem to find reviews about it...
Tomioka Sport Series Racing Fuel Pressure Regulator (http://www.frsport.com/Tomioka-Sport-Series-Racing-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-_p_20888.html)

Im currently looking into upgrading my fuel rail and reg just wanna make sure the stuff i get is reliable its for a SR20 Thanks!

[Kingtal0n]

Has anybody had any experience with this Regulator? I cant seem to find reviews about it...
Tomioka Sport Series Racing Fuel Pressure Regulator (http://www.frsport.com/Tomioka-Sport-Series-Racing-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-_p_20888.html)

Im currently looking into upgrading my fuel rail and reg just wanna make sure the stuff i get is reliable its for a SR20 Thanks!

I dont like it. Not because its cheap or blue, but because it looks fancy. Fancy parts dont ensure reliability. If I was going to purchase a FPR for my vehicle, I would:

1. Decide for sure if I needed one. Do you own a stand alone, and have reasonable power goals? if so, you dont need one.
< 400 horsepower is a reasonable power goal, with a single walbro, that should not require a FPR if the injectors are sized right.

2. Buy a simple unit. One without gauges, lines, in other words: as few parts as possible to fail, as few holes as possible to leak from.

a FPR is a tuning tool, without knowledge of how to use it, makes it pointless to own.

[cotbu]

I can't tell you how good it works, but it does have everything most aftermarket fpr have.
And those fitting are for options to run hose to barb or AN. So, if it holds pressure when set and raises pressure 1:1 I'd probably use it. To bad all the important info is missing from the description!

[jr_ss]

Get one with a gauge or one that has provisions to add one... It'll be easier to set base fuel pressure with, rather than plumbing one in else where.

I use a Sard. Sard, aeromotive, Tomei, etc are all acceptable options.

[UNITEDMASTER]

I say spend a lil more coin & get the TOMEI.

[s15specR]

It looks just like the tomei, knock off ?

[KaminaSan]

I have this FPR, and it doesn't seem to work exactly how it should. I set the FPR to 43.5psi with the vacuum unhooked(3 bar), and when I plug vacuum in, it should go down to 2.5 bar, but rather it's like 2.3.

Another issue I have, is as soon as I turn off the engine, it lets fuel drain back, meaning instead of holding pressure at lets say 25-30 psi for a couple hours, it immediately drops to 15 psi, then down to 0 psi when the car is off in a matter of seconds.

This causes me some starting issues.

[codyace]

I'm a big fan of the Nismo unit as it works, is reliable, and is cheap.

Sure some argue you don't need an FPR, but it's been proven time and time again that the stock FPR is not up to the task of more fuel.

Sure you'll need to add a gauge, but that's super easy...and you're still less then 150 bucks total involved. If you want an all in one unit, I'd suggest an Aeromotive for the simplicity, and rebuilidability if need be.

[codyace]

Another issue I have, is as soon as I turn off the engine, it lets fuel drain back, meaning instead of holding pressure at lets say 25-30 psi for a couple hours, it immediately drops to 15 psi, then down to 0 psi when the car is off in a matter of seconds.

This causes me some starting issues.

It should only hold for a few seconds at best, even on a good one.

[cotbu]

I have this FPR, and it doesn't seem to work exactly how it should. I set the FPR to 43.5psi with the vacuum unhooked(3 bar), and when I plug vacuum in, it should go down to 2.5 bar, but rather it's like 2.3.

Another issue I have, is as soon as I turn off the engine, it lets fuel drain back, meaning instead of holding pressure at lets say 25-30 psi for a couple hours, it immediately drops to 15 psi, then down to 0 psi when the car is off in a matter of seconds.

This causes me some starting issues.

It should hold longer than a couple of seconds. And if it doesn't, I'm confident in saying you have a leak somewhere. Most likely injector o-rings.
And that's what I think is causing your hard start issue.
The ecu primes the fuel system, before starting. So you could try giving the ecu, time to prime the fuel system or check for leaking o-rings.

I'm going outside and do a test now, koeo prime, key off. time or video whatever. I can't sleep!

[AdrenalineS14]

wow idk how i missed the tomei regs and yeah they do look identical to the blue one i posted lol looks like tomei it is! Thanks for all your replies guys.

[4x4le]

I dont like it. Not because its cheap or blue, but because it looks fancy. Fancy parts dont ensure reliability. If I was going to purchase a FPR for my vehicle, I would:

1. Decide for sure if I needed one. Do you own a stand alone, and have reasonable power goals? if so, you dont need one.
< 400 horsepower is a reasonable power goal, with a single walbro, that should not require a FPR if the injectors are sized right.

2. Buy a simple unit. One without gauges, lines, in other words: as few parts as possible to fail, as few holes as possible to leak from.

a FPR is a tuning tool, without knowledge of how to use it, makes it pointless to own.

You come and go in waves it seems, but when your here you talk out of your ass.

[cotbu]

My camera died, but it's still not at zero anyway gl http://img.tapatalk.com/d0362392-c20e-7877.jpg

Sent from my Highly Tuned Vibrant!

[Walperstyle]

I has a question:

I have held an Isis and aeromotive FPR in my hands.. they look 100% exactly the same. Is it possible that aeromotive just simply throws a sticker on from the same factory in China that ISIS uses?

I know BC/Stance/HSD coilovers are all the same, so it totally is possible others are the same.

[Kingtal0n]

You come and go in waves it seems, but when your here you talk out of your ass.

umadbrah? Keep following me around, trying to insult me

fail:duh:

[Kingtal0n]

It should only hold for a few seconds at best, even on a good one.

Dear Cody, with all respect sir, I believe a proper FPR needs to hold the fuel pressure in the rail for quite a while.

to the thread creator:
http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/431024-apexi-safc-2-nismo-fpr-sr20-ignitor-chips.html#post4473707

Check out that simplicity, no holes, just the bare minimum. Made by a quality trusted parts distributor.

[4x4le]

umadbrah? Keep following me around, trying to insult me

fail:duh:


Im not following you around, thats for sure. Im clicking on threads that interest me, which you happened to have given a bunch of stupid advice as normal in this one. The other thread that I must have followed you in, well I created that thread:picardfp:




You are an idiot and do not have any business giving advice.

[rcdad123]

yeah, spend a little more and get the tomei. it has the same features and everybody knows it works.

[KaminaSan]

It should hold longer than a couple of seconds. And if it doesn't, I'm confident in saying you have a leak somewhere. Most likely injector o-rings.
And that's what I think is causing your hard start issue.
The ecu primes the fuel system, before starting. So you could try giving the ecu, time to prime the fuel system or check for leaking o-rings.

I'm going outside and do a test now, koeo prime, key off. time or video whatever. I can't sleep!

Actually, I checked for o-ring leaks when I first installed the injectors by priming the fuel pump with the injectors in the rail and out of the intake manifold, so it's not that.

The problem is that the fuel pressure drops right after the prime, so it starts up, but then idles low(5-600) due to being lean(17:1 on the wideband), and then a couple seconds later, when I drive forward, it's perfectly fine.

I will actually check the o-rings again, but I'm fairly certain it's not the case since this happened with the original injectors, and then again with the upgraded ones.

It's one of two things:

1.) The fuel pump drainback check valve is no good.

2.)The SARD knockoffs, which this is, have the issue of being unable to hold fuel pressure in the rail. This also occurs on aeromotive and AEM fuel pressure regulators.

[Croustibat]

Sure some argue you don't need an FPR, but it's been proven time and time again that the stock FPR is not up to the task of more fuel.


funny how things are different in the US.

This seems to only happen on Zilvia. Never heard nor ran into this problem in UK and France, where these engines come as standard in S13 and S14.

As far as i know, OEM FPR is fine, even with a walbro (nearly everyone is running one here) .

Dont waste money on a FPR. If you need more fueling, get bigger injectors. If you can map, get a nistune. Efficient and simple.

[jr_ss]

funny how things are different in the US.

This seems to only happen on Zilvia. Never heard nor ran into this problem in UK and France, where these engines come as standard in S13 and S14.

As far as i know, OEM FPR is fine, even with a walbro (nearly everyone is running one here) .

Dont waste money on a FPR. If you need more fueling, get bigger injectors. If you can map, get a nistune. Efficient and simple.

So what youre saying is adjusting base fuel pressure is bad? Well hell, us Americans are doing it all wrong...

If you are upgrading any part of the fuel system, it is wise to get an adjustable regulator w/ a gauge to know exactly what base fuel pressure is. I like to know what my engine systems are doing, it's a cheap investment to protect your expensive equipment.

Just because you haven't had any issues with the factory FPR, doesn't mean it's working right or even has you at the right base pressure. Sure you can plumb a gauge in, but how are you going to adjust it when you find out it's high/low?

Buy a good reg and be done with it. It'll last you years and when you upgrade, which we all know will happen, you won't have to buy one.

[codyace]

I has a question:

I have held an Isis and aeromotive FPR in my hands.. they look 100% exactly the same. Is it possible that aeromotive just simply throws a sticker on from the same factory in China that ISIS uses?

I know BC/Stance/HSD coilovers are all the same, so it totally is possible others are the same.

Aeromotive has been making the regulator long before the Chinese companies even started knocking off parts in general, so I find it hard to believe. I had an Aeromotive unit back in 2002/2003, but opted for the Nismo one.

funny how things are different in the US.

This seems to only happen on Zilvia. Never heard nor ran into this problem in UK and France, where these engines come as standard in S13 and S14.

As far as i know, OEM FPR is fine, even with a walbro (nearly everyone is running one here) .

Dont waste money on a FPR. If you need more fueling, get bigger injectors. If you can map, get a nistune. Efficient and simple.


For a stock setup it's more than sufficient. You tack on a Walbro 255, and it already pushes beyond the factory FPR. Granted it pushes the fuel pressure high, and to a safe amount, but it's an overly safe amount, often times making cars run very rich.

We've been running JDM and Euro engines in FWD cars forever, and now RWD cars...I can assure you on both Bluebird/GTiR engines, and the Silvia based ones, that it all holds true (as the FPR is probably the same internally on every older Nissan ever created).


Dear Cody, with all respect sir, I believe a proper FPR needs to hold the fuel pressure in the rail for quite a while.

It will hold for a little, but I'm not talking hours. Maybe a few seconds/minute. I've truthfully never watched, but it doesn't hold forever, nor should it. The FPR is designed to restrict, not hold fuel (at least the Nismo/Stock one).

[Croustibat]

So what youre saying is adjusting base fuel pressure is bad? Well hell, us Americans are doing it all wrong...

If you are upgrading any part of the fuel system, it is wise to get an adjustable regulator w/ a gauge to know exactly what base fuel pressure is. I like to know what my engine systems are doing, it's a cheap investment to protect your expensive equipment.

Just because you haven't had any issues with the factory FPR, doesn't mean it's working right or even has you at the right base pressure. Sure you can plumb a gauge in, but how are you going to adjust it when you find out it's high/low?

Buy a good reg and be done with it. It'll last you years and when you upgrade, which we all know will happen, you won't have to buy one.

I know how it works. These are not carburetted engines, they have an ECU with quite nice features, and that ECU is well enough to manage 500HP out of a CA18DET or an sr20det. Use it.

I nor anyone i know in France or UK has ever had that kind of problem. 3 pumps are commonly used here : walbro 255 Lph and bosch 040/044.

Do you personnally know someone who had that problem, or is that an internet legend ? I dont write that just for fun, i find it strange the only people who have that problem are from US of A. Dont you ?

You dont need to adjust the fuel pressure, because quite simply it does the job. If it ever goes wrong, bin it and get another one second hand for 5$. My CA one went for 15 years, and would have continued to go if i did not switch for a second hand SR20 one (because CA base pressure is 2.5bar and SR20 is 3bar, and i wanted a bit more capacity ...which was not enough anyway, i need 800-1000ccs).

To do things properly you need an EGT and wideband AFR sensors and gauges, a nistune and a computer to hook everything together. That is the cheapest of the most effective way, and is exactly what i am doing. I am quite happy with the ~300 HP my little CA is giving ( the gearbox does not like it though). It would give more but the injectors are currently maxed at 130% duty . E85 is fun to play with but it also have its downside i guess...

If you need an FPR to adjust fueling, it means you also have to adjust timing, really ... but using an FPR to tune is the same as changing CAS base position to adjust timing. It just is wrong.

[4x4le]

you cannot run 130% duty cycle. 100 is the most that is even possible and anything over that isnt going to yield a result.

Also people are not using the fpr to tune, they are using them because they ARE faster acting, more consistent, and changing to larger injectors will deplete pressure in pulses 2-3 times faster so a faster recharging fpr is necessary. If you want to get your tune as close as possible having all the proper equipment is necessary.

Seems to me like no matter what we tell you though your just going to think we are fat stupid Americans so whats the use.

[Croustibat]

Thanks captain obvious!
130% duty cycle means the ECU tries to command it open 30% more than the injectors can be opened. Which means it requires at the very least 30% more fuel capacity.

People are changing they FPR because they are told they need to, and they like having some shining goodness under their hood. That is the truth. That is not limited to US ppl so stop your xenophobic claim right now.

Change your FPR, then use a wideband lambda sensor. Yeeeees your fueling is now all over the place, because it does not work the exact same way your oem fpr does. So now you need a tune. Why dont you simply get a tune ?


Just answer that simple question: why does this problem happens in the only country that does not have these engine as standard under their hood ? It does not happen in Japan, nor in Europe. Why ? Have you ever wondered about that ? Did it really happen to you, or is it a case of "a friend who knows told me" ?

Think about it. It wont change my life, i dont care. A quality adjustable FPR is at least 100$. Would not you feel better with a 100$ more in your pocket ? Cause you dont need to spend them on a FPR.

I am nowhere saying you are stupid, i am saying you are wasting your money on useless stuff.

The fact is that FPR problem only shows up in the US. It is a fact. You cant deny it. I dont know, maybe that is related to the fuel being not the same. I just want to understand.
And as it is The Internet, it first comes down to this: who did see a failing FPR in person here ? If the answer is "no one" or just a couple of ppl, then it does not exist. Period.

[4x4le]

I tune nissans as a side thing, using nistune mostly to be exact.
I have seen people with faulty fprs actually, or ones that offer too little or too much fuel pressure YES.
So lets say its offering more or less than 3 bar with vac off, the fpr is failing. So yes it can be taken care of with the tuning right then however chances are that the fpr is going to get worse thus requiring a new tune when the owner of the car should have just replaced the fpr in the first place.

Further more allot of people around here run 4 bar setups. Do you realize the higher the base pressure is the better the burn you get? Sure its harder on the fuel system but it makes better power. It is almost a must for e85 as well, and I do allot of tunes for e85 because it is available in this area. By running a 4 bar setup with e85 your not only getting better atomization but your also offsetting the extra fuel demand required with e85. Also e85 can be anywhere from 70-85% so if you need you can change the pressure if needed to correct the afr.

Either way, I still stand by a fpr not being a waste of money. Its just 1 more nice thing to have. You could argue that we dont need turbos on our cars because they drive just fine without them.

[Croustibat]

I use nistune too, i always carry a netbook in my 13 for that. I have been using e85 for some years now. While ethanol quantity varies, i never noticed a lot of AFR variation. Most of it was a 1 point difference. I agree a FPR is a fast and easy way to adapt to these changes... and so is a nistune (granted, it takes a little more time).

I am not so sure about the 4bar resulting in better atomisation though (nothing personal here, i would really like to see spray patterns). I believe injectors are build to get a good spray at 3bar. I could be wrong, but i dont see how atomisation would be better at 4 bar if the injector noozle is optimised for 3bar. That and most of the time it just bumps onto a closed intake valve anyway.

I would not run 4bar on a walbro setup though. It means the pump has to manage enough fuel flow at more than 5bar when at WOT (i am running 1bar boost, could run 1.2 but as said before injectors are maxed so wont happen until i get bigger ones). I dont think they are reliable enough, and that would surely overload the wire. the oem power wire going to the pump is too thin, heats quite a lot and lowers pump voltage. I will be replacing that one soon.

Personnal preference though.


I did not mean getting a FPR is a waste of money, sorry. I meant getting a FPR because a random internet guy told you need one is a waste of money. If it is working properly, no need to change it, that is what i meant.

And yes, you dont need turbos on your cars because you have lots of V8s around to chose from. Drop it in and forget it, just change oil and spark plugs from time to time. In the long run they are cheaper to run and more reliable for the same power level... :yum:

I wish i had one. Too bad it would cost more than my car is worth to buy one, its gearbox and get it home :mad:

[jr_ss]

We arent telling him to get one for the hell of it... Sure there are those kids that just like to buy fancy shit, whatever. I buy items or suggest them when they are needed. Just because you swap a Reg doesn't mean you need a tune either. Set it at base fuel pressure as your factory one would be and go. Im not recommending he tune with or by it. No one uses FPR's to tune their cars anymore so to speak. It's an old trick people use to do.

[4x4le]

For a 4 bar setup (unless your n/a) your correct, you need something other than a walbro 255 in tank. Its mostly due to their safety crack pressure.

I run a 255 in tank and a inline 255 after the fuel filter.

[AdrenalineS14]

haha sorry for resurrecting this old thread but does anybody know what the tomei type s reg can handle as far as power goes i saw its good for under 400bhp then i see a couple sites stating it can handle 800bhp which is it?... all this time has passed and im just now about to order the type s reg! haha im shooting for 400 on the dot on a sr20det just wanna make sure its gonna regulate and supply the needed fuel for my goal. thanks guys

[Croustibat]

most S14 / sr20 owners i know are getting 400+ with stock FPR. I cant see what a FPR has to do with power output...

[cotbu]

most S14 / sr20 owners i know are getting 400+ with stock FPR. I cant see what a FPR has to do with power output...

You can't see why a company, might wanna sell a product?

[4x4le]

The reason for a other than stock fpr is if your pump setup is causing your stock one to run other than stock fuel pressure and you want to go back to stock fuel pressure.
Or if you want to run other than stock fuel pressure.