det block or de block whats this bull shit!!

[kouki_drifter]

ok guys first post! so i just got a kouki about a month and a 1/2 ago and the motor gives the ass just my luck! so i order another one it comes in and has every thing tranny, ecu, harness etc.. but surprise!:eek: the block doesn't have the turbo line hook ups on the block!:confused: or on the radiator neck that comes off the head to the radiator the only one its got is the oil line in and out it seems like the hole had been drilled and taped! it was full of jb weld i chiseled it all away and found the fitting:wtf: the other holes arent there??? whats the deal? i figure its a de block with a turbo bolted on what do you all think about this:confused:??? i got pics to show what im talking about but i dont know how to post um???

[jr_ss]

If it's a DE block it doesn't have a forged crank nor the beefier rods that came in the DET. you can drill and tap for the hook ups you need. Just copy where they are on the DET block

[Sileighty_85]

If it's a DE block it doesn't have a forged crank nor the beefier rods that came in the DET. you can drill and tap for the hook ups you need. Just copy where they are on the DET block

Ive ran P/N on the DE and DET crank and FAST shows them as the same P/N.

[jr_ss]

Ive ran P/N on the DE and DET crank and FAST shows them as the same P/N.

Well, regardless if they are or not, the DE has weaker rods and doesn't have oil squirters. Not to mention the piston design being different with a thinner top ringland...

[kouki_drifter]

thanks for the info guys! i just took the motor back where i bought it they're going to try and send it back to the jdm company where they ordered it from. its to fishy for me its got RTV all on the head oil pan and oil pump, i also found some metal shavings in the pan so i gotta get a new one!$2400 is to much to mess with and waste on crap. in case i just get my $ back what is the best or the most reliable place to get a new sr20det s14 from? i have searched and found that there is no best! but the one that has the less complaints or mishaps? any info from experience is appreciated! thanks!

[SLiDe_WaYz]

ZeroLift Autolabs

[kouki_drifter]

this company has good reviews? you have had good luck and service with this company?

[jr_ss]

Contact Robert at Zeroliftautolab... He'll help you out.

[kouki_drifter]

!!cool man thanks

[kouki_drifter]

i cant seem to get a hold of this guy is this place still around?

[slydin240sx]

jdmhookup.com
reliable source for JDM motors! i'm sure he'll ship if you got the cash. Ask for Dewey!!

[jr_ss]

Yes, this place is still around. I converse with him on a frequent basis. Use the AIM contact or call them. Zerolift Autolab | Performance Parts | JDM Engines | Drifting Services (http://Www.Zeroliftautolab.com)

[kouki_drifter]

OK Ive been calling zerolift for a few days and no one ever answers just get the answering machine every time left a message also and still nothing? I'll try again tomorrow and see what happens, thanks!

[jr_ss]

They may be at an event or something. They tend to travel to large motorsports meets and events.

[kouki_drifter]

got a hold of both guys finally but no s14 for about a month shit! i was considering an ls1 swap or rebuilding stock s14 i think it just spun a rod bearing because VTC is good, lifters have been bled and it was still knocking. the knocking was kind of strange though it would knock loud at idle, louder when Rpm's went up but then it would stop knocking and quiet down, but let off the gas and it was back up loud again so i need to open it up and see whats going on. what are your opinions on swapping or rebuilding?

[jr_ss]

What's your oil pressure? Any metal in your oil?

[kouki_drifter]

no oil pressure gauge. i already pulled the motor the tranny needed work also, a throw out bearing and new clutch and fly wheele, it was like rattle/ grinding at idle out of gear and also in gear with the clutch in. i havent got the oil pan of yet it kind of sucks because i work every day till 6:30 and its starting to get dark early at about 7, 7:30 so not much time but im hoping i can get it opened up next weekend and see whats going on inside. what would you all suggest? im just trying to pump at least like 15lbs of boost maybe 300 to 350 hp i dont really want to go to radical just want a little more power than stock. im planning on upgrading fuel system rail, 550 injectors, & walbro pump. i also want to upgrade ignition i already have NGK grade 7 plugs and looking to get split fire coil set up. i was thinking of just going all forged wiseco piston heads, eagle H beam rods, and im not sure about boring yet? i also planned on port & polishing, & decking the head. 3 angle or 5 angle valve job all new valves, seats, seals, 270 cams,& timing chain pretty much whole rebuild. im assuming the motor will be able to handle at least 15lbs 300 to 350hp right? i also already got nismo motor and tranny mounts, act 6 puck clutch and looking at ordering act 10.5 lb fly wheel i know im looking at about $5000 more or less. am i headed in the right direction? any opinions or comments are appreciated! thanks!

[NoPistons!]

For 300-350whp tuned i dont think you should need piston/rod upgrade. I'd spend that money on beefing up the head. Imo, that's the weakest link in an sr20 and ALOT of fun can be squeezed by working the fuck out of it. http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/~treadstone/prod_imgs/img-2053-0-large.jpg

How to Build a 9000-rpm SR20DET Head (http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to-build-a-9000-rpm-sr20det-head.html)


If you are upgrading your cams, springs and doing a valvejob, might as well fully build the head and worry about the bottom end later. They are factory stout.

[jr_ss]

I think you should figure out what's going on with your motor. You can get 300-350 on stock internals. Just add cams, a larger turbo and supporting fuel mods. No need for forged internals up until 500 or so. It's all in the tune.

[kouki_drifter]

cool sounds good I was just figuring if I have to replace the pistons, rods, and bore though may as well go forged right? Would it be practical to run forged piston heads and stock rods to save a little cash and still be able to bump up the boost? I have worked on many motors more V8's and 6's than 4,s but its sounding like to me that it spun a rod bearing I'm hoping that that's all that happend and there's minimal damage. what head rebuild kit brand would you suggest? I was leaning twords brian crowler kit. But I'm looking for the best bang for the buck! Well are'nt we all. Thanks guys for the comments I will post some pics of it once I open it up, by the way how do you post pics on here. Do you have to use an external website such as photo bucket? Ps. One more question? What about the lifters would the hydrolic lifteers be fine or would solid be the way to go? I know solid lifters are kind of a pain to get the spacing correct. Just wondering?

[jr_ss]

Pistons fine, rods no need. I'm not a fan of BC products, but that doesn't mean people haven't used them with success.

[kouki_drifter]

what would you recomend? I was also considering HKS or tomei. I will post pic of motor when broken down and pics of new parts thanks for all your comments and help i really appriciate it! Thanks!