Check Engine Light Codes on KA24DE

[fliprayzin240sx]

I've been getting a consistent code 32, 33 and 34. From what I've looked up, its pointing to the EGR, o2 Sensor and Knock Sensor. Just curious if anybody had this happen to them and which one they started checking first. This is on a 95 S14 engine.

[jdm213]

never happened but the best way is to check the cheapest things first

[fliprayzin240sx]

So my damn 240sx has had a check engine light on since I got it. Pulling out Code 32, 33 and 34 (EGR, o2 and Knock sensor). I've tried resetting it and it ends up coming back on. It sounded like it was misfiring so I did a pseudo tune up, changed oil, fuel filter, plugs, distro cap/rotor. Resetted the codes again and it went away for last week. Yesterday, it came back on again.

My question is, I figured all 3 codes are tied together. Would a shitty/clogged EGR cause all 3 issues?!?!

[fliprayzin240sx]

Well figured out a couple things. The vacuum lines going to the EGR was fucked so fixed that and the FPR vacuum line was done too. Replaced those and now I'm getting a code 21 and still getting the 34. When you get a code 34, is it saying that the sensor is bad or the ECU is sensing knock from the sensor?

[Pacman]

Look at your Knock sensor. The plastic on the sensor is cracked (I'm just about guaranteeing that) which is the reason for the code. Once the plastic cracks, it makes the sensor much too sensitive thus throwing a code. Even the smallest crack will trip the code. I've gotten them from eBay for $30 and they came in OEM Nissan packaging (look for the Nissan logo on the sensor in the picture, those are the OEM ones on eBay). I'm running one right now and it works flawlessly (no codes). I'd also recommend replacing the pigtail harness for the knock sensor as a maintenance item. Clear the code I'm the code should stay off. The pigtail is a Nissan only item, around $50 or so. Hope this helps.

Sorry for flaking on the skirts awhile ago, was going through some major financial issues. I did appreciate you sourcing those for me though.

[Mister.E]

Ok, so im getting a code 34 and code 105. From what i gather, i just need to replace the knock sensor to get rid of the 34; which is simple enough via eBay.

I looked up code 105 and it says - EGR and Canister Control Valve (Solenoid)

anyone know what this means? or of any way to fix it?

[Mister.E]

anybody know whats up with code 105? i'm still pulling this code and i want to get rid of this damn check engine light.

[fliprayzin240sx]

EGR could be clogged...might have to pop the whole assembly off to clean it out. Good luck on that one because I'd burn this engine first before I attempt to fix anything EGR related.

[hOngsterr]

i see, i guess those codes are a common problem with ka24de's im running 32 and 34 code.

[Mister.E]

EGR could be clogged...might have to pop the whole assembly off to clean it out. Good luck on that one because I'd burn this engine first before I attempt to fix anything EGR related.

LOL, my thoughts exactly. It's passed smog twice with this code so it's no real big deal. i was just hoping that it would be some sort of easy fix.

[fliprayzin240sx]

WTF? You guys got smog in Vegas? I'd change my damn state of residence in my LES to TN and register that shit there if thats the case.

[silver350z05rb]

my friend bought one that was NOT oem nissan material knock sensor, the check light never went away(even after a reset), we replaced it recently with one from the nissan dealer and the check engine light for the knock sensor went away(of course after a reset) its been about 2,000 miles and hasent came back

[Mister.E]

i dont have an address out there, or in any other decent state for that matter. im from California, so that doesnt really help. just wish i could go back to Misawa. being in the states blows.

[zerodameaon]

To check your EGR diagram to see if it is working right just have the car warmed up and idling then grab the bottom of the big round part and pull up, the car should attempt to die. If it doesn't that could mean the passage is blocked in the intake. To clean that you need to open up the 10mm hex plug next to the intake, there is a nice write up here but the pictures are dead. http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/372184-trouble-passimg-smog-your-ka-look-here.html. If you get a vacuum tester/gun you can test to see if the diaphragm has a hole by just applying vacuum, and since your back there check this tube.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/vancouverbc_2008/egr.jpg

I was able to get my EGR code to go away after doing these things. It came back once about a year later accompanied by the knock sensor code, but its gone and now I get water temp sensor and knock, so I think the knock sensor just trips random things when it goes off.

[Mister.E]

isnt that shit super hard to reach while the motor is in the car?

[fliprayzin240sx]

i dont have an address out there, or in any other decent state for that matter. im from California, so that doesnt really help. just wish i could go back to Misawa. being in the states blows.

I miss my $1000 COLA...:rl:

[fliprayzin240sx]

isnt that shit super hard to reach while the motor is in the car?

Yes, my lil asian hands could barely get the vacuum line between the two. And when I did, my hands look like I stuck it in my sink disposer...

[Mister.E]

weak. i have ABS too, so im pretty sure that big ass module will create even more problems. fuck my car.

[zerodameaon]

If it is cracked just take off the BPT and you have a bit more room to work with. To be honest I think a motor swap is less frustrating then troubleshooting the EGR.

[Mister.E]

To be honest I think a motor swap is less frustrating then troubleshooting the EGR.

LOL, that's encouraging.

[Agent_S13]

Don't forget about the BPT sensor that's inbetween the intake manifold.

I've asked for help in another thread but managed to pass smog last week. (CEL went on during test, told him to keep it running and it went off... let me pass since emissions were fine).

I should add that I replaced the EGR/BPT, solenoids and BPT sensor with new items, including hoses. Still having CEL issues but only when the car is cold but if I've replaced everything above, how can it still give me Code 32 (EGR Malfunction)?

After reading this thread, I'll have to check

1) Knock Sensor
2) O2 Sensor
3) IACV - only because my idle is high when warming up (1500 rpm)

If I didn't pass the emissions part, I'd consider getting rid of the car but since its still passing with the exception of the CEL I'm inclined to try to fix it since it still runs and is not a moving smoke-screen on the roads.

I look forward to hearing how you finally fix it.

-Aaron
'91 240sx coupe

[Mister.E]

I look forward to hearing how you finally fix it.

this probably wont happen, so dont get your hopes up. im not really inclined to go digging around behind the motor because i'll probably break a brittle vacuum line or something and just make shit worse.

mine is a '95 so the CEL doesnt matter when i take it to get smogged.

[zerodameaon]

LOL, that's encouraging.

Ok so I was over exaggerating a bit but when you back there trying to take the thing off it can feel like it.

Agent_S13 check to make sure that new line from the BPT to EGR isn't kinked, if its to long and gets kinked up the same symptoms can come back.

And on OBDI the codes are more of educated guesses, my MAF went out and I got a code of leaky injector.

[Mister.E]

To check your EGR diagram to see if it is working right just have the car warmed up and idling then grab the bottom of the big round part and pull up, the car should attempt to die.

ok, so i was outside smoking and decided to fuck with this problem a little. i reached around the valve and that little L-shaped hose was completely obliterated, the entire backside had blown out leaving a gaping hole. after getting all the pieces of cracked and shitty hose off of the two connections, i replaced the hose with a brand new 6mm silicone hose. i then checked the diaphragm like you said and the car nearly died until i let go of it. so i guess the EGR solenoid is now operating correctly.

after this i pulled the ECU back out and ran the codes again and this is what i got:

34 - Knock Sensor (don't know why the fuck this came back, i just replaced it not too long ago with a brand new one)

105 - EGR and Canister Control Valve (Solenoid)

i promptly cleared the codes and then drove the car around for about 5 minutes, doing a couple hard pulls here and there. so far, the light has not come back on so things are looking good for me as far as solving my problem. i will report back if the light decides to pop back on again.

[Promise Land]

I lost an engine due to heat last fall and just replaced it. I put a '98 OBD-2 engine in my OBD-1 car. I had to swap all the OBD-1 parts over (intakes, etc.). I am getting the same codes (34 and 105) and I'll throw in 77 (o2 sensor). o2 sensor is new and I added Megan Racing mounts. The car is rough at idle (vibration), so I'm assuming they are causing the code 34 to come back again and again. I will fiddle with it tomorrow. I reset my codes Thursday night and the light came back on after the second time I started the car as it should.

[Mister.E]

CEL popped on again today. will try to pull codes tomorrow and see if im still getting the same shit.

[fliprayzin240sx]

I need to pull my code, just replaced my clutch. I got a feeling I broke my Crank Angle Sensor...

[Mister.E]

ouch, that would suck.

[Mister.E]

code 34 and 105 again

WHAT

THE

FUCK?

i completely disconnected the battery to reset the ECU so we'll see if that helps any. i highly doubt it, so this is just gonna continue to piss me off. i dont see how i can replace the knock sensor with a genuine nissan sensor and still pull this fucking code...?

[Promise Land]

I took BPT valve loose Sunday morning and found that the 90° hose to the EGR valve had a small hole in it. I took the hose off, wrapped it in electrical tape to plug the hole temporarily, and put it back on. I started the car 4 different times after idling for a few minutes. My codes haven't come back (yet). I'll drive the S14 to work tomorrow to see if they come back.

[Mister.E]

Mine took a few days to come back on. And i replaced it with a brand new piece of hose and made sure that it wasnt kinked whatsoever.

[fliprayzin240sx]

The knock sensor code could also mean its reading knock. Not necessarily a bad sensor.

[Mister.E]

i dont think it's knocking any to be honest, i've been looking into the issue a little more and people are saying it's usually the knock sensor subharness going bad that causes it to throw that code.

[zerodameaon]

So I am at a loss. I'm driving home from class tonight and CEL comes on, I get home and pull the codes 13(coolant sensor) 34, and here's where it gets interesting 35 or Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor. S13s don't have EGT sensors so WTF.

Why is it that RB25s shoehorned into S chassis are less a pain in the ass.

[Mister.E]

ECU reset didnt do shit. Light came back on today. im not even going to bother pulling the codes cuz i already know what im going to get.

Im basically in fuck it mode now. the car runs fine so im done trying to solve this shit.

[gtstwincam]

Sorry to revive an old thread but my s14 has this same code 34 and 105 BS even with a new knock sensor. Anyone solve this?

I guess I will have to reset the ECU in the smog shop parking lot