How to wire a vq35 into your 95 s14

[dudewutup]

HERE IT IS! this thread is to help you guys, if you find any errors let me know and they will be corrected asap!


How to wire a 2003 VQ35 into a 1995 obdi 240sx

this is the first revision of this wrightup, there may be errors if any are found contact me at [email protected] or [email protected] if i have not gotten back in touch with you within 1 week. please do not flood my email with a bunch of questions post questions in the thread in whitch this is posted.
most importantlly at all you do this wiring jobat your own risk! i am not responsable your you "messing up your car". now that all the formalities are out the way its time to get this baby started!!

First and foremost this is my gift to the 240sx community. i made this not because i have to, i made it to help advance the platform! im not asking for handouts but if you feel that this wrightup was a big help please donate to the cause, im not a bif shop and i dont have deep pockets all of this is personally funded by myself. so if this was a sucess give me a hand so that i can give you guys more.
paypal
[email protected]

*things you will need
origonal uncut obdi ka24de harness
2003 vq35 engine harness
black tape
wire pliers
soldering gun/iron
a large flat serfice
the "everything that is vq zip file"MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service (http://www.megaupload.com/?d=QCI6YNMX)
lots of extra wire
a few hours

*optional but reccomendedpaitence
knife or razorblade
a quiet area to work in (i did mine at work)
a computer with internet access close by
general knoladge of wiring
masking tape for lableing your wires(trust me this makes life easy)
some tunes to keep you company

*not needed

anything that was not mentioned before (duh)

The first thing i reccomend is to get aquainted with the type of wiring you are going to come in contact with, study the ecu plug for the vq35(page 103 of the ec.pdf in the 350z service manual.zip) and f3(f395240sx.jpeg) plug for the 240sx. i will be retaining my abs so i will also give instruction on how to keep it, if you dont have abs or dont plan to keep it simply skip this part of the wrightup.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp72/dude_wutup/240sx/deskshot.jpg

Alright all brushed up on the location and layout of the plugs we will be dealing with? good.....

next we get to do a little bit of creative deconstruction. get your ka24 harness and remove all the black tape and loom.
it should look somrthing like this:
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp72/dude_wutup/240sx/harnessdetaped.jpg

hopeflly you havn't cut any wires yet! now we want to remove the f3 and abs plugs from the harness. start with the f3 plug, the trick is to keep the wires that run to the engine bay and ecu relay and cut the ones that run to the ecu. be sure that you leave yourself atleast 6" of wire from the f3 plug. now you cut all your excess wires (leave yourself atleast 6" of course) you need to keep the wiper harness conector and the ecu relay plug. you should be left with 3 plugs f3, ecu relay, and wiper motor plug.

next we ned to remove the abs,just as you did with the f3 plug remove it from the main harness. cut the wires leading to the ecu and retain all the rest.

at this point if you had any grounds lable them.

the next thing we want to do is lable the wires coming from your f3 plug.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp72/dude_wutup/240sx/f3plug95240sx-1.jpg
use this diagram(1995240sx) and lable what you have.

alright its break time, wash your hands, grab a snack,watch a little tv, and prepare for the scary part of this whole process!


its time to become really aquainted with the vq35 ecu plug.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp72/dude_wutup/240sx/z33pinout.jpg
this is probably the scaryest part of the swap and its not even that bad.

LABEL EVERYTHING AS YOU CUT IT! DO NOT LEAVE UNLABELD WIRES HANGING AROUND!!

in order here are the wires to cut, the color code, and what to lable. leave yourself atleast 6".

1 b engine ground
82 b/w aap ground
83 g/r aap2 ground
85 lg data link conector
86 r CAN communication line
90 lg aap power supply
91 b/or aap2 power supply
94 l CAN communication line
98 g/b aap pedal position2
106 g/or aap pedal position 1
109 w/b ign switch
111 gy/l ecm relay
113 lg/b fuel pump relay
115 b/w ground
116 b/r ground
119 g/y power supply for ecm
120 p power supply for ecm
121 r/w power supply (back up)

Optional wires......
23 r/b injector signal bank 1 (used for tach)



That wasnt so bad was it? here is some quick shots of what i got.....
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp72/dude_wutup/240sx/labelthosewires.jpg


tired of lableing wires yet?didnt think so, we have two more things to lable.
we will start off with the gas pedal. i dont have exact measurements but you should need 4-6' to span across from the gas pedal to the ecu. its best to try to get wire that matches the color that it should be. solder everything because all of this is voltage sensitive.

here is the basic numbered pinout, i used a g35 gas pedal instead of a 350z so there were some color diffrences.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp72/dude_wutup/240sx/gaspedalplugpinout.jpg

use my pin positions and label everything.

Z33 Gas pedal plug E123 pinout goes like this

Plug Pin Color ECU Pin Color(if color changed) What its labled
Pin 1 Green/Red
Pin 2 Red/Yellow
Pin 3 Black/White
Pin 4 Black/Orange
Pin 5 Yellow
Pin 6 Blue

if you have wire to match pins 1-6 it will make life much easier.


next is adding wire to your obdii port. depending on were you locate your port the distance can vary greatly, and as aleays the same color wire really helps.

Z33 OBDII Plug goes as follows

1 emtpy
2 empty
3 empty
4 Black (Ground) Behind instrument cluster Plug M30
5 Black/White (Ground) Right side of dash Plug F152 (Turns black at plug)
6 Blue (CAN Line H)
7 Purple (K line)
8 Green/Yellow 10amp Hot IN or ON Start
9 Empty
10 Empty
11 Empty
12 Empty
13 Empty
14 Empty
15 Red (CAN Line-L)
16 Red/White 15amp Hot At All Times



now for the fun part tieing everything in

we will start off with the f3 plug

F3 --------------->ecu

1 b/r 119 g/y & 120 p
11 b/p 113 lg/b


then the gas pedal

pedal ------------>ecu

Pin 1 Green/Red ----------- Pin 83---------------- GndA2
Pin 2 Red/Yellow ---------- Pin 98 (Green/Blk) --- ApS2
Pin 3 Black/White --------- Pin 82 --------------- GndA
Pin 4 Black/Orange ------- Pin 91--------------- AVC C2
Pin 5 Yellow --------------- Pin 106 (Grn/Orng) -- Aps1
Pin 6 Blue ------------------ Pin 90 (LghtGrn)----- AVC C

and last the obdii port
port ecu personal
4 b n/a ground
5 b/w n/a ground
6 l 94 l n/a
7 pu 85 lg n/a
8 g/y n/a ign sorce
15 r 86 r n/a
16 r/w n/a 12V +

What remains from the ecm....

1 b ground
111 gy/l from output from the ecu relay
115 b/w ground
116 b/r ground
109 w/b ign sw
121 r/w 12+ constant




if you followed this guide and took it step by step, your ecu has had nats removed, and you have an engine in the car. you should be able to start it up.
















sources and credits:
IRAX: 2003 350z complete .pdf
sourceing obdii pinout
sourceing gas pedal plug pinout
giving me that extra kick in the ass to make this wrightup happen
talking tech with me
and his vast knoladge of the s-chasis
om1krom: for the f3 pinout


thanks to everyone who may have helped me! and enjoy the gift to the community.

:snoop:

[dudewutup]

also what are the chances this becomes a sticky?

[slamn240]

is there any pictures of the final product? that would help. I agree this should be sticky

[dudewutup]

there will be, im still working with it, as well as getting some more pictures

[gunmetalr32]

Epic... Thanks for taking the time to help

[dudewutup]

Thanks man, its only going to get better. My actual swap thread has a pretty fair amount of information in it as well. Ill get plenty more pictures of everything too.

[rik boellen]

hi there

my name is rik from the netherland and i'm going to start my swap the nex months and this winter, in europe we only got sr20's and i'm going to use this tread as a guide
i wil post my wireing that may be a little difrent.

thanks a lot

regards rik

[dudewutup]

What year is your car I've got a pinout for the f4 plug on a 95 sr200sx if it can be any help ill send it to you. As long as your vq harness and ecu are 03 this wrightup is a winner for you, if you need any more help let me know and ill try my best to help you out.

[rik boellen]

i really apriciate your help thanks!

my car is a 95,- euro spec sr20det
i'm leaving tomorrow for a holiday the next 2 weeks, i can choose my engine swap., is it better to use a 2003 model vq.
i'v got a extra vq35 (single engine incl harnes excl ecu) i wil check out when i'm back in the garage,.
is the z33 europe model different than the us version?
and what about mccinney motorsport swap mounts? is this a good fit?, never find a built ho has used them

ps. sorry for my english,..

regards rik

[ka-titties]

can you use the s14 diagnostic plug instead of the z33 one?

[ka-titties]

also, this section:


now for the fun part tieing everything in

we will start off with the f3 plug

F3 --------------->ecu

1 b/r 119 g/y & 120 p
11 b/p 113 lg/b


then the gas pedal

pedal ------------>ecu

Pin 1 Green/Red ----------- Pin 83---------------- GndA2
Pin 2 Red/Yellow ---------- Pin 98 (Green/Blk) --- ApS2
Pin 3 Black/White --------- Pin 82 --------------- GndA
Pin 4 Black/Orange ------- Pin 91--------------- AVC C2
Pin 5 Yellow --------------- Pin 106 (Grn/Orng) -- Aps1
Pin 6 Blue ------------------ Pin 90 (LghtGrn)----- AVC C

and last the obdii port
port ecu personal
4 b n/a ground
5 b/w n/a ground
6 l 94 l n/a
7 pu 85 lg n/a
8 g/y n/a ign sorce
15 r 86 r n/a
16 r/w n/a 12V +

What remains from the ecm....

1 b ground
111 gy/l from output from the ecu relay
115 b/w ground
116 b/r ground
109 w/b ign sw
121 r/w 12+ constant

could be explained in a little more depth. as in, not using abbreviations to make reading a little easier. the part about wiring the f3 plug to the ecu makes no sense how i'm reading it along with the part about wiring the obd2 port to the to the ecu. what is "port ecu personal?"

[ej1bullet]

hi i was wondering haw wold i do it of i have a 89 240 harness ?? i already got the tyranny, motor , ecu ,harness and mounts ... all i need is haw to do the harness ...:2f2f:

[Mister.E]

if i ever decide to do this swap, ill just send my wiring to you! LOL

great job man!

[Om1kron]

thanks for the shotout, but I am not responsible for that f3 plug pinout. A guy named Jay made it. I just wanted to preserve it because it makes the f3 plug stupid simple! Glad to see everything workout for you!

[dudewutup]

hi i was wondering haw wold i do it of i have a 89 240 harness ?? i already got the tyranny, motor , ecu ,harness and mounts ... all i need is haw to do the harness ...:2f2f:


To be honest this was my first venture with anything nissan, but if you can link me the fsm for a 89 I can look it over and see im I can help

[ej1bullet]

To be honest this was my first venture with anything nissan, but if you can link me the fsm for a 89 I can look it over and see im I can help

ok to be honest this is my first time ever in the Nissan world ...... so whats fsm ?? :confused:lol

[ej1bullet]

ok to be honest this is my first time ever in the Nissan world ...... so whats fsm ?? :confused:lol

Ok I think I know already the wire diagram .... Is that corect ?

[dudewutup]

Factory service manual. If you can find one for your piticular year and link it too me ill work a little magic. They say s13 is alot easier than s14

[ej1bullet]

Factory service manual. If you can find one for your piticular year and link it too me ill work a little magic. They say s13 is alot easier than s14

i found it http://www.240edge.com/manuals/89-90_240sx/wiring_2.pdf thanks man i really need this im basically dun just finish the mounts ...
do you got any links that can help me with the s 13???? :ughd:

[40flash]

I'm not familier with Megaupload. Of what benefit will this be to me? I don't know what it does or how this will help me. Basically, why do I need it? I downloaded it on your recommendation but don't understand what to do with it now that I have it?

[irax]

I'm not familier with Megaupload. Of what benefit will this be to me? I don't know what it does or how this will help me. Basically, why do I need it? I downloaded it on your recommendation but don't understand what to do with it now that I have it?

spam? yeah I think this is spam

[irax]

i really apriciate your help thanks!

my car is a 95,- euro spec sr20det
i'm leaving tomorrow for a holiday the next 2 weeks, i can choose my engine swap., is it better to use a 2003 model vq.
i'v got a extra vq35 (single engine incl harnes excl ecu) i wil check out when i'm back in the garage,.
is the z33 europe model different than the us version?
and what about mccinney motorsport swap mounts? is this a good fit?, never find a built ho has used them

ps. sorry for my english,..

regards rik

1.) If you can find me the z33 euro model wiring diagram I'll check for differences... has to be in UK English though. A colour diagram would help out too.
2.) the McKinney mounts are the only ones still around for a reason.

can you use the s14 diagnostic plug instead of the z33 one?

As long as it is the OBDII plug it should be the same

also, this section:


could be explained in a little more depth. as in, not using abbreviations to make reading a little easier. the part about wiring the f3 plug to the ecu makes no sense how i'm reading it along with the part about wiring the obd2 port to the to the ecu. what is "port ecu personal?"

There is a lot of stuff not exactly explained the in FSM about that... All I know is where to wire it. Though his write up is slightly different (in naming convention only) than what I gave him IIRC since I deleted everything out of my inbox. But the pins and colors are accurate and that's what matters for the most part (using this write up at face value).

i found it http://www.240edge.com/manuals/89-90_240sx/wiring_2.pdf thanks man i really need this im basically dun just finish the mounts ...
do you got any links that can help me with the s 13???? :ughd:

Just get McKinney mounts, they are great for the price.

[rik boellen]

hi

i did try the wireing..
and the europe z33 is the same.
I try to figure out the last wires. the trotle body dont have his power feed.
I did read the ecu and have only power to trotle body and p1610..
currently i'm into the chassis modifications and than i try to find out the electronics.(i will asked you guys)
when it runs i do a write up..

mc cinney mounts are ok.

regards rik

[40flash]

spam? yeah I think this is spam
Thanks so much for this thread. I've been sweating this part of my swap for the two years I've been working on the car. I'm nearing the finish line on my VQ to 95 S14 swap. I'm basically down to the wiring. I am trying to figure out if I want to give it a try myself or send the looms to someone who has done them.
I don't know why you would think this is spam? It wasn't intended as spam at all. I have never dealt with Megaupload and didn't understand what it was or how to use it. I have figured it out since that post. I've been a car guy all my life but not a computer guy. Forgive me.
I understand the gas pedal wiring and what the wires go to but the section just below that part of the write confuses me a little. Please help.
Let me know if I am interpeting the directions correctly. The abreviation n/a is used several times. What is n/a? Probably something simple that I missed. Sorry

and last the obdii port
port ecu personal --------------What is this?
4 b n/a ground --------------- ground to the chassis??
5 b/w n/a ground ------------- 5 b/w ground to chassis?
6 l to 94 l n/a ---------------- 6 l to 94 on the ECU plug?
7 pu 85 lg n/a ---------------- 7 pu to 85 on the ECU plug
8 g/y n/a ign sorce ----------- 8 g/y to any 12v ignition source?
15 r 86 r n/a ----------------- 15r to 86 on the ECU plug?
16 r/w n/a 12V + ------------ 16r/w to 12v constant on?

Do I have these correct?

What remains from the ecm....

1 b ground
111 gy/l from output from the ecu relay ---- Not sure what to do with this? Do I connect 111gy to the stock S14 ecu relay? color code for that wire?
115 b/w ground
116 b/r ground
109 w/b ign sw
121 r/w 12+ constant
All of these come from the f3 plug and

[irax]

Thanks so much for this thread. I've been sweating this part of my swap for the two years I've been working on the car. I'm nearing the finish line on my VQ to 95 S14 swap. I'm basically down to the wiring. I am trying to figure out if I want to give it a try myself or send the looms to someone who has done them.

I don't know why you would think this is spam? It wasn't intended as spam at all. I have never dealt with Megaupload and didn't understand what it was or how to use it.

I have figured it out since that post. I've been a car guy all my life but not a computer guy. Forgive me.


I understand the gas pedal wiring and what the wires go to but the section just below that part of the write confuses me a little. Please help.
Let me know if I am interpeting the directions correctly.

The abreviation n/a is used several times. What is n/a? Probably something simple that I missed. Sorry

and last the obdii port
port ecu personal --------------What is this?
4 b n/a ground --------------- ground to the chassis??
5 b/w n/a ground ------------- 5 b/w ground to chassis?
6 l to 94 l n/a ---------------- 6 l to 94 on the ECU plug?
7 pu 85 lg n/a ---------------- 7 pu to 85 on the ECU plug
8 g/y n/a ign sorce ----------- 8 g/y to any 12v ignition source?
15 r 86 r n/a ----------------- 15r to 86 on the ECU plug?
16 r/w n/a 12V + ------------ 16r/w to 12v constant on?

Do I have these correct?

What remains from the ecm....

1 b ground
111 gy/l from output from the ecu relay ---- Not sure what to do with this? Do I connect 111gy to the stock S14 ecu relay? color code for that wire?
115 b/w ground
116 b/r ground
109 w/b ign sw
121 r/w 12+ constant
All of these come from the f3 plug and

I really couldn't understand your post from before, and I have as much trouble understanding this one too but I'll see what I can do.

the MEGAUPLOAD link is to a file that you should download if you are doing this swap. It is a .ZIP file, so if you are using an older operating system like windows XP you will need to download and install the program WinZIP which is available at WinZip - Windows Zip Utility - Zip Files, Unzip Files (http://www.WinZIP.com) to be able to open the .ZIP archive. Alternatively you could use the program WinRAR as well, which could be found at WinRAR download and support: Start (http://www.win-rar.com). If you have Windows Vista or Windows 7 you should be able to open the archive just fine.

OBDII plug wiring little more explained
PIN location wire color what it does ------------- where it goes
4 black ground --------------- ground to chassis
5 black/white ground --------------- ground to chassis
6 Blue CAN Line H ---------- Pin 94 on the ECU plug
7 Purple CAN Line K ---------------- pin 85 on the ECU plug
8 Green/Yellow ignition ----------- 12v Hot IN or ON Start
15 Red CAN Line L ----------------- Pin 86 on the ECU plug
16 Red/White 12V + ------------ to 12v Hot at all times (Constant 12v source)

For Pins 6,7,15 you splice them to the ecu to their corresponding locations.
Pins 4,5, you ground to the chassis
Pins 8 and 16 you connect to the corresponding sources.

This is the most that I can help you with as I am not as familiar with the wiring diagram on the 240sx itself

[40flash]

Thanks for the help with Megauplaod. I do have XP and I finally figured out how to use it and I did use WINrar.
You have cleared up a few things for me and I appreciate it. I have some things I still need to know.
1. I still don't know what n/a refers to?
2. You have verified that 4 & 5 ground to the chassis.
When you say that 6,7,8 15 & 16 go to their corresponding locations, am I reading it correctly and these are the corresponding locations?
6 l - splices to 94 on the F3 ECU plug?
7 pu splices to 85 on the F3 ECU plug
8 g/y splices to any 12v ignition source?
15r splices to 86 on the F3 ECU plug?
16r/w splices to any 12v constant on?

Maybe dudewutup can verify that this is how he wired his? Sorry if I'm not explaining it properly. Just don't want to mess things up.

[irax]

Thanks for the help with Megauplaod. I do have XP and I finally figured out how to use it and I did use WINrar.
You have cleared up a few things for me and I appreciate it. I have some things I still need to know.
1. I still don't know what n/a refers to?
2. You have verified that 4 & 5 ground to the chassis.
When you say that 6,7,8 15 & 16 go to their corresponding locations, am I reading it correctly and these are the corresponding locations?
6 l - splices to 94 on the F3 ECU plug?
7 pu splices to 85 on the F3 ECU plug
8 g/y splices to any 12v ignition source?
15r splices to 86 on the F3 ECU plug?
16r/w splices to any 12v constant on?

Maybe dudewutup can verify that this is how he wired his? Sorry if I'm not explaining it properly. Just don't want to mess things up.


N/A was refered to where it goes on the ECU plug, as in it doesn't connect to the ecu plug .

F3 is the Dash plug, not the ECU plug, but yes everything splices through to the ECU plug and not the F3 plug for the dash.

[40flash]

OOPS. I thought the F3 was the ECU plug. Sorry.
So, if I take out the reference to the F3 dash plug, have I got this correct.
6 l - splices to 94 on the ECU plug?
7 pu splices to 85 on the ECU plug
8 g/y splices to any 12v ignition source?
15r splices to 86 on the ECU plug?
16r/w splices to any 12v constant on?
Thanks for being patient with me.

[40flash]

Quote:
we will start off with the f3 plug

F3 --------------->ecu I was told that the F3 plug is a dash plug.

1 b/r 119 g/y & 120 p What?????
11 b/p 113 lg/b What?????


Can you take a minute and explain what this means please? I have no clue what to do with this?

[irax]

Quote:
we will start off with the f3 plug

F3 --------------->ecu I was told that the F3 plug is a dash plug.

1 b/r 119 g/y & 120 p What?????
11 b/p 113 lg/b What?????


Can you take a minute and explain what this means please? I have no clue what to do with this?

Pin 1 is black and red and is ignition lead for the ignition coil. He used it to connect to pin 119 which is green and yellow and is the power supply for the ECM and 120 which is pink which is also another power supply for the ECM.
Pin 11 is a black and pink wire, it is the signal for the Fuel pump relay. On the ECU it is pin 113 that is light green and black

[tapdeznutz]

subscribed

[40flash]

Anybody know what happened to Dudewutup? He's dropped off the face of the earth. Phone number disconnected. Email doesn't work. Hasn't answered PM. ???? Really hope he's OK.

[irax]

I have him on facebook, haven't checked by in a while though

[irax]

dudes fine

[dorrifto]

I really wish this was posted before I did my vq swap. It would have saved me roughly $600

[dorrifto]

subscribed

Anybody know what happened to Dudewutup? He's dropped off the face of the earth. Phone number disconnected. Email doesn't work. Hasn't answered PM. ???? Really hope he's OK.

he replied to my vq thread a bit before the new year. Said he was short funds or something like that. I dont think he has given up, just trying to get back on track.

[upsdude]

how much does he have left to get the swap up and running?

[ka-titties]

edit: nevermind, my question got answered already.

[Lost8lives]

Megaupload.com has been Seized the FBI what is in the File and where else can i get it

[Poorboy]

anyone have that file he was referring to? and can anyone post it or host it somewhere?

I'm looking to do a VQ35 swap into my ODBII S14, and REALLY not trying to pay 600-1000 to have someone else do the wiring. I'm emboldened by this thread in that it can be done.


Does anyone else know how he got around the NATS system, and if it worked? The Zfever website seems to suggest that its not possible to get around it without "flashing" the ecu or something that only they are capable of. However, in his writeup he seemed to say that he had gotten around it by doing his wiring.

Has anyone attempted to do their own wiring with an ODBII vehicle?

[irax]

ZFever uses the Osiris UPRev software, there are a lot of shops that can do it. There might be one in your area.

And dudewhatsup just wired in the nats system. Bardabe did it on my vq swap using the maxima ecu. Its just you gotta use the dash harness and properly connect the Nats amp around the ignition cylinder. Just follow the factory wiring diagram it shouldn't be an issue at all.

[40flash]

Other than the anti-theft issue I'm not sure why it would be an advantage to use the NATS system when the re-flash is cheaper and easier. If I'm wrong on that, fill me in.
National Speed inc. re-flashed mine and they were reasonable and great to work with. Fast and efficient. $300.
I'm with-in a few days of firing mine up.

[40flash]

now for the fun part -- tieing everything in
we will start off by slplicing wires from the
S14 F3 plug wires to 350Z ECU plug


I wrote the following to further clarify what DudeWhatup wrote with his permission. Hope it helps.

　
Wiring the obdii port
See FSM section EC page 620
port number
4 black wires directly to a chassis ground
5 black/white wires directly to a chassis ground
6 blue wires directly to ECU plug pin # 94
to verify see FSM section LAN page 39
7 light green wires directly to ECU plug -pin # 85
8 green/yellow to 12V switched source (hot with key on)
14 not 15 at least for 2003 Red wires directly to ECU plug pin # 86
to verify see FSM section LAN page 39 and section EC page 620.
16 red/white 12V + not switched - constant on



Powering the ECU
Port 1 (black wire) wires to chassis ground.

Port 109 (white/black wire) connect to hot side of ignition switch.
Can be wired directly to the 240SX F3 plug pin #1 black/red. The white/black wire at port 109 continues on to feed Injectors so don't cut it, just splice in the black & red wire from the F3 plug to it. Verify at FSM section EC page 138 and 1995 240SX FSM section EC page 85.


Port 111 (grey/blue wire) is a ground source for ECU relay in the passenger foot well. It wires directly to the 240sx ECU relay terminal 1 (red/black wire.) for verification see 240sx FSM section EC page 85 and 350Z FSM section EC page 171 & 138.

Port 113 (light green wire) is the ECU feed for the fuel pump relay. It splices to position 11 on the 240sx F3 plug (black/pink wire.) Verify at 240sx FSM Section EC page 201 and 350Z FSM section EC page 588.　

Port 115 (black/white wire) wires to chassis ground.

Port 116 (black/red wire) wires to chassis ground.

Port 119 & 120 Red wires to output side of ECU relay. Cut black/white wire at ECU relay plug and splice both red wires from ECU port 119 & 120
Verify this in three places: 350Z FSM section EC pages 138 & 499. Compare this with 1995 240SX FSM section EC page 85
Port 121 (red/white wire) connects to +12volt constant on.

Another issue. The 240sx obviously doesn't use fly by wire throttle and therefore does not have a throttle motor relay as the 350Z has. I had a horn relay from a 350Z lying around and used it to run the throttle motor. In retrospect, I have by-passed the clutch pedal relay. It was an alledged safety feature that wasn't on the Canadian models. If doing this swap again I would use the Clutch switch relay to power the throttle motor since it's already in the fuse box. See 350Z FSM section EC page 415 and 240sx FSM section EL page 26 (American) and page 27 (Canadian.)

One more. Dudewhatup pointed this out to me on the phone but I don't think it's in the write up anywhere. In the 350Z engine loom there is a group of white/blue wires that are joined in a small junction block not far from the ECU connector. One of the things they power is all six ignition coils. In the 350Z these wires are fed through the ECU relay. Make sure you establish a link to the 240sx relay or you will have no power to the coils. Verify at 350Z FSM section EC pages 570, 572 & 574. Don't confuse White/black (W/B) with White/Blue (W/L.) For anti-theft you could run this white/Blue wire through a hidden switch or obscure switch somewhere. The car will not run with the switch off.

Input is welcome if anyone has questions or comments as to the accuracy of my post.

[Poorboy]

how big is this zip file? apparently I missed the boat because megaupload is caput.

can someone email it to me? IRAX/Flash40/Dudewhatup ?

my email is [email protected]

I also would be interested to know if this would be any different for a ODBII S14 based on what wiring is involved. I can supply the FSM if need be.

For a guy like me, this is all very intimidating at first, so pictures/diagrams and clear explanations are very important. Because of the community, I think I will do my best to try to contribute when I'm doing mine by detailing it and adding photos/diagrams as much as possible.

[Lost8lives]

thanks to the dude 40Flash Irax and eveyone.. using this thread my 1995
240SX VQ35DE swap starts. but i still have a long way to go any help with this will be great....

ok it will run and revup and idel... then i cut it off try to start it again and the throttle motor is not working cut it off clear the MIL codes and back to normal next time same thing ???

I think it may have to do with the fact that I dont have the trottle motor (or ECU) Relay wired in (just running them both right to a hot wire) but i cant get em to work I tryed wiring em in. I put the ECU relay in and wired it to wire 111 in on the ground side of the relay but i dont think that it is supplying ground. If I ground the ECU relay wire out on the body the relay clicks tryed wiring a relay in for the throttle motor to the ground on wire 104 and same deal i can only guess that the ECU is not getting ground but I have all the ground wires that i know of grounded????


http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w370/lost8lives/ECURELAYWIRING.png

this is how i am wiring the ECU relay in. any help or suggestions please?

[darkroom1428]

The ecm relay is fine but i wired mine as ECM relay 1 and 3 should be going to s14 f3 plug 17. ECM relay 5 should go to ECM pin 111 and ECM relay 2 should go to ecm pin 119,120. but I'm curious did you also wire the 12v wire feeds to power the coil pack, intake valve timing, crank, and cam sensor.
The coil packs 12v wire it's the white/blue wire refer to page ec-573. The intake valve sensor 12v is also white/blue refer to page ec-402, and the cam and crank shaft sensor 12v wire is red/white refer to page ec-295,301.

ECM 119,120 wire to----white/blue wire on coil pack and intake valve timing, and red/whit crank and cam ---ECM relay 2

Hope this helps

Thanks
Lee

[darkroom1428]

A second 12v relay I'm using is the throttle control relay.
The throttle control relay I have wired up also using the s14 f3 plug 17 to throttle relay 1 and 3. Throttle relay 5 to ECM pin 3 and throttle relay 2 to ECM pin 104.
S14 f3 plug 17 Is also wired straight to ECM pin 121.

[Poorboy]

I hate to beat dead horse, but given the impending start of my swap, I just want to ask again, if anyone has the aforementioned VQ zip file, if they could PM me or send it to my email which I provided. Thanks!

[40flash]

thanks to the dude 40Flash Irax and eveyone.. using this thread my 1995
240SX VQ35DE swap starts. but i still have a long way to go any help with this will be great....

ok it will run and revup and idel... then i cut it off try to start it again and the throttle motor is not working cut it off clear the MIL codes and back to normal next time same thing ???

I think it may have to do with the fact that I dont have the trottle motor (or ECU) Relay wired in (just running them both right to a hot wire) but i cant get em to work I tryed wiring em in. I put the ECU relay in and wired it to wire 111 in on the ground side of the relay but i dont think that it is supplying ground. If I ground the ECU relay wire out on the body the relay clicks tryed wiring a relay in for the throttle motor to the ground on wire 104 and same deal i can only guess that the ECU is not getting ground but I have all the ground wires that i know of grounded????


http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w370/lost8lives/ECURELAYWIRING.png

this is how i am wiring the ECU relay in. any help or suggestions please?
If I am correct in asuming we are talking about using the stock 240sx ECU relay to power our 350z ECU then be sure to look at the 240sx FSM section EC page 85. On it I believe you will see that relay ports 2 and 5 are the ones that connect to the 12V hot wire F3 plug terminal 17, not 1 & 5 as shown in the above diagram. Number 1 goes to 111 on the ECU which appears to be the ground for the coil side of the relay. Number 3 on the relay goes to 119 & 120 which are 12v hot not grounds. When the relay is closed 119 and 120 are fed 12V directly from the fuse box and are not grounds.
Please compare 240sx FSM section ec page 85 to 350z FSM section ec page 138 to see the 350z ECU relay wiring. The 240sx and 350z ECM relays mirror each other in wiring and function. Only big difference I see is the size of the fuses that feed them. (on page 85 the feed from the battery says pin 9. It's 9 on m63 side and 17 on the F3 side of that connection.)
Check it out and let me know what you think.

[darkroom1428]

40flash thanks for the pm I corrected my mistake in the previous post. I was referring the white/blue wire for the coil pack and the intake timing, and the red/white wire for the crank and cam sensor as being grounds but in reality they are feed from the ECCS relay as being a 12v source from a start and on position of the key.

Thanks
Lee

[Guilty1s]

I'm confused on something. Original post had us wiring in the pedal just 6 wires in from the pedal to 6 wires in to the ecu straight. You 2 have mentioned a relay in there. I assume that is needed. You have any explanation how that is wired and where is goes.

[Guilty1s]

And this too

[Lost8lives]

I'm confused on something. Original post had us wiring in the pedal just 6 wires in from the pedal to 6 wires in to the ecu straight. You 2 have mentioned a relay in there. I assume that is needed. You have any explanation how that is wired and where is goes.

Just 6 wires from the ECU to the pedal yes
No relay need for the pedal
Just for the throttle body motor and the ECU

[Lost8lives]

I fixed my throttle motor relay and ECU relay no more safe mode.thanks 40flash
And everyone on this thread

[40flash]

I'm confused on something. Original post had us wiring in the pedal just 6 wires in from the pedal to 6 wires in to the ecu straight. You 2 have mentioned a relay in there. I assume that is needed. You have any explanation how that is wired and where is goes.

Your pedal wiring schematic is correct. This will clear up the confusion. The relay we are speaking of is not for the throttle pedal but for the throttle positon motor on the throttle body. It's called the "electric throttle control actuator" in the FSM and the relay runs it. See section EC pages 412 to 429. I think you could use the Cruise control relay that sits right next to the ECU relay in an S14.

[dudewutup]

sorry that ive pretty much dropped of the face of the earth guys but im back....married, a home owner, and have changed jobs so getting on the forums is a challenge. luckily for me were not talking about kids yet!

ill make a new upload tonight with 40flash's new addition included as well as the pics above.

yet again sorry ive been missing during such a crucial part of the wiring write-up but i should be back for a while.

[status]

I have a VQ35 swapped into my S13 and I cannot for the life of me get the cluster working! I'm wondering if I need a Z33 cluster? Or is something just not wired up correctly?

[darkroom1428]

I was able to wire up a 2005 Altima 2.5l auto gauge cluster into my s14 and only using the obd port of the vq ecu. With the cluster I'm able to view my tach and coolant temp.
I only wired in 5 ground wires, 3 power wires and the 2 can L and H wires.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c63/darkroom1428/B1C8AC3C-4630-4B81-A4A7-93837C48986A-3284-00000369351C4AF9.jpg

[dorrifto]

I have a VQ35 swapped into my S13 and I cannot for the life of me get the cluster working! I'm wondering if I need a Z33 cluster? Or is something just not wired up correctly?

How do you have it wired in? Sorry if you have posted above. I haven't read this thread since January or whenever I last posted lol.

But I have a fully working cluster so depending on how you wired yours in, I could help you out. Pm me if you want

[status]

How do you have it wired in? Sorry if you have posted above. I haven't read this thread since January or whenever I last posted lol.

But I have a fully working cluster so depending on how you wired yours in, I could help you out. Pm me if you want

Do you have the J30 diff or something!? I was doing some reading after this and found that the 240 speed sensor is in the trans and the Z sensor is the ABS style, that there's really no other way than to get a diff with a sensor in there. I'm just using the 240 cluster and literally nothing is working. Do you guys have any info on what wire should go where!? I bought the car as a swapped "project" that barely ran. Got everything running and working, just no cluster info. I have temp/oil press/voltage gauges on my A pillar but i'd like to get rid of them. I'd also like to throw a 350z cluster in there if possible as i have one sitting in my garage that a friend gave me. I've taken the cluster off and swapped it thinking it was a bum cluster, but to no avail. HVAC is all s13 and works fine. Everything seems to work BUT the cluster. Was wondering if maybe i needed the Z cluster or something. Thanks in advanced!

[dorrifto]

Do you have the J30 diff or something!? I was doing some reading after this and found that the 240 speed sensor is in the trans and the Z sensor is the ABS style, that there's really no other way than to get a diff with a sensor in there. I'm just using the 240 cluster and literally nothing is working. Do you guys have any info on what wire should go where!? I bought the car as a swapped "project" that barely ran. Got everything running and working, just no cluster info. I have temp/oil press/voltage gauges on my A pillar but i'd like to get rid of them. I'd also like to throw a 350z cluster in there if possible as i have one sitting in my garage that a friend gave me. I've taken the cluster off and swapped it thinking it was a bum cluster, but to no avail. HVAC is all s13 and works fine. Everything seems to work BUT the cluster. Was wondering if maybe i needed the Z cluster or something. Thanks in advanced!

Yes, having the j30 diff is the only way I know how to get it to work. The 350z gives out a different type of signal that the 240's cluster will not recognize. Swapping the 350z cluster in there should work, theoretically.

[status]

Yes, having the j30 diff is the only way I know how to get it to work. The 350z gives out a different type of signal that the 240's cluster will not recognize. Swapping the 350z cluster in there should work, theoretically.

Rad. Thanks for the info man. And as for the tach/coolant temp/gas gauge, anyone have any info on what pins those would be coming from off the ECU?

[dorrifto]

Rad. Thanks for the info man. And as for the tach/coolant temp/gas gauge, anyone have any info on what pins those would be coming from off the ECU?

as for the coolant, do not tap into the ecu wire. just buy an aftermarket gauge and sensor. If you tap into the ecu coolant signal wire, it will throw off the readings to the ecu and fuck shit up. I tried it, tried it again, and then one more time for good measure. Dont do it. lol.

As far as the tach, I actually have a passenger side coil wired into an MSD box, and then into a dakota adapter, and wired directly to the 240's stock tach. works great.

[status]

as for the coolant, do not tap into the ecu wire. just buy an aftermarket gauge and sensor. If you tap into the ecu coolant signal wire, it will throw off the readings to the ecu and fuck shit up. I tried it, tried it again, and then one more time for good measure. Dont do it. lol.

As far as the tach, I actually have a passenger side coil wired into an MSD box, and then into a dakota adapter, and wired directly to the 240's stock tach. works great.

Haha okay well i do have an aftermarket temp sensor, so i suppose i can just use that signal wire. Thanks for the info. If i'm using the 350z cluster, i shouldnt need the dakota adapter i'm guessing. Gonna have to look at the Z cluster and pigtail and figure out what wire is what i suppose. Thanks for the info!

[dorrifto]

Haha okay well i do have an aftermarket temp sensor, so i suppose i can just use that signal wire. Thanks for the info. If i'm using the 350z cluster, i shouldnt need the dakota adapter i'm guessing. Gonna have to look at the Z cluster and pigtail and figure out what wire is what i suppose. Thanks for the info!

You shouldn't need ANYTHING aftermarket if you use the 350z cluster. It gets all its info from the ecu so just wire it up the way it is supposed to be and (as far as I know) you shouldn't have any problems with tach/speedo/temp. The gas gauge, however.... Not sure how that would work...

[status]

You shouldn't need ANYTHING aftermarket if you use the 350z cluster. It gets all its info from the ecu so just wire it up the way it is supposed to be and (as far as I know) you shouldn't have any problems with tach/speedo/temp. The gas gauge, however.... Not sure how that would work...

Cool man thanks. Just trying to find the cluster wiring diagrams. Keep coming up empty handed -___- cant find S13 OR 350z.

[status]

Okay found the wiring harness for the Z cluster. Now i just need the Z ECU diagram and i can do this!

[dorrifto]

Here ya go

Index of /FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/)

[status]

Here ya go

Index of /FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/)

Oh fuck yeah. Awesome man thank you. Now my only problem is.. i cant find the fucking AC amp haha. The ECU was in the stock location, but i've been following wires and idk where the hell the put it! ..is it possible this guy didnt wire one in?

[mpact1981]

Here ya go

Index of /FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/)

This should be posted on the main page of the forum in giant text......

[ka-titties]

its the best nissan resource on all of the internets.

[40flash]

Oh fuck yeah. Awesome man thank you. Now my only problem is.. i cant find the fucking AC amp haha. The ECU was in the stock location, but i've been following wires and idk where the hell the put it! ..is it possible this guy didnt wire one in?
The FSM shows the AC amp is under the stock radio.
Also the Q45 diff has a speed sensor like the J30 but the 1996 & earlier Q45 comes stock with the 3.54 gears that the 350z also came with. Down side is that the 240sx axles won't bolt up. If you want to run an S15 helical diff like I did then no problem. Use the Q45 case with the helical s15 diff and the 3.54 gears with the s15 stub axles that should come with you S15 diff. If you find the helical diff without the axles don't buy it. You'll get raped buying the axles separately. It's a very easy conversion that bolts in. It uses a larger driveshaft flange but if you have to have a driveline made anyway, no problem. If you want a little lower gear ratio, the 1997 & later Q45 came with 3.67 gears I believe.

[status]

Yeah i found that as well, looks like its mostly used to power the heaters and stereo stuff, but some wires do lead to the cluster. I'm thinking whoever did the swap in my car didnt put one of these in here, as it wasnt needed.

[Guilty1s]

It started!!!! First try it freaking started!!!! I couldn't keep it running for long cause I don't have my driveshaft till the end of this week which mean no gear oil so I couldn't keep yet trans spinning.

I just need to bleed my clutch line and hold in the clutch and do it again.

Big thanks to everyone who helped me out. 40flash especially. I have a bit info to share with everyone shortly that will make this stuff a lot easier to understand.

[40flash]

Many have wanted to know where you get drivelines made and what yoke to use for the new one. Here are the details. The driveline experts say the stock 350z/G35 driveline is non-rebuildable so don't waste your money aquiring one, (like I did.)
Instead find a good local driveline shop and have them make one. Mine turned out perfect. They supplied all parts and balanced it for $240.
Phoenix Rack & Axle (602) 252-8255
The yoke they used:
Spicer part number 7091.
It has 32 splines and is a perfect fit into the 350Z/G35 manual trans. It does use a larger diameter U-joint. You will have to shorten or remove the metal ring on the trans where the yoke slides in.

You can buy this yoke from them or your local driveline shop. Driveline Specialist inc. sells the yoke for $84. I'm sure either of the companies listed can make the entire driveshaft and ship it to you if you don't have a good local driveshaft maker. They will need an exact measurement from the trans output shaft to the diff input shaft faceplate and the spacing on the faceplate holes so they know which flange to use on your driveshaft. Happy hunting guys.
Driveshaft Specialist Inc.

8327 McCullough Avenue
San Antonio TX 78216

210.342.6622 Phone
210.342.7074 Fax

1.866.455.6622 Toll Free
Orders and Free Tech Advice

[40flash]

Many thanks to Dudewutup and all that contribute to this thread and the other VQ swap threads. My swap is now running.
It's fixed and running! Halaluliah. A genius at my local Nissan dealership, (Earnhardt Nissan, Mesa AZ) figured out that my MAF sensor was installed backwards in my home made bracket. I had made a very nice aluminum MAF holder because the MAF tube I had bought as a 350Z part turned out to be from something other than a 350z part. I cut the MAF mount off of it and created a new mount. In doing so I put it in backwards and it kept the thing from running and gave me all kinds of evil codes.
The wiring presented on these pages works just fine.

[dorrifto]

Ha wow that is crazy! It's always something stupid like that. Mine didn't run the first time because I had the exhaust and intake cam sensors switched (I have a rev up so there are 4 instead of 2).

Great to hear man!!

[40flash]

Yeah i found that as well, looks like its mostly used to power the heaters and stereo stuff, but some wires do lead to the cluster. I'm thinking whoever did the swap in my car didnt put one of these in here, as it wasnt needed.

So, did you get the 350Z cluster to work properly without the A/C amp? I also have a 350Z cluster but have made now attempt to hook it up and just wondered if I could at some point in the future.

[40flash]

While we are on the subject of gauge wiring, here is a post from 350sx NW build up.
Actually the blue/white wire is the shared 12v source for the entire ignition circuit so that wouldn't work. Each coil is 3 wires, Ground, Signal, and Pwr. Blue/White is power and black is obviously ground. The signal wire is going to be the only unique wire per each given coil. The signal is faint, but grapping it from that signal wire works for me. I'm using a Dakota Digital Tach Interface box and I adjusted accordingly to drive my tach. I'm pretty sure that the signal wires for the fuel injectors would be a better source because they run on a higher volt signal but I've got it working so I'm not going to mess with it unless it gives me trouble.

I posted this to suggest that he has it wired correctly but his suggestion that the injector signal wire would be a better and stronger source for the tach signal. I disagree. If you look at the wiring diagram for the injectors you will see that the every injectors is fed from a common 12v from the fuse box any time the ignition is turned on. When the ECU wants to energize a particular injector it closes a ground wire from the ECU to that injector. Since the they all get a constant 12 volts positive, the positive can't be used to pick up a pulse for the tach. Also you can't run the tach with the pulsed ground wire from the ECU.
The signal wire for Ignition coil number 1 is a better source for the tach signal. On the 2003 and maybe others, that wire is a yellow and red wire that feeds the coil from terminal 17 at the ECU. Don't cut the wire but splice into it and wire it to the Dakota Digital SGI-8 "signal in" terminal.

[mpact1981]

Thanks for the advice

[40flash]

While we are on the subject of gauge wiring, here is a post from 350sx NW build up.
Actually the blue/white wire is the shared 12v source for the entire ignition circuit so that wouldn't work. Each coil is 3 wires, Ground, Signal, and Pwr. Blue/White is power and black is obviously ground. The signal wire is going to be the only unique wire per each given coil. The signal is faint, but grapping it from that signal wire works for me. I'm using a Dakota Digital Tach Interface box and I adjusted accordingly to drive my tach. I'm pretty sure that the signal wires for the fuel injectors would be a better source because they run on a higher volt signal but I've got it working so I'm not going to mess with it unless it gives me trouble.

I posted this to suggest that he has it wired correctly but his suggestion that the injector signal wire would be a better and stronger source for the tach signal. I disagree. If you look at the wiring diagram for the injectors you will see that the every injectors is fed from a common 12v from the fuse box any time the ignition is turned on. When the ECU wants to energize a particular injector it closes a ground wire from the ECU to that injector. Since the they all get a constant 12 volts positive, the positive can't be used to pick up a pulse for the tach. Also you can't run the tach with the pulsed ground wire from the ECU.
The signal wire for Ignition coil number 1 is a better source for the tach signal. On the 2003 and maybe others, that wire is a yellow and red wire that feeds the coil from terminal 17 at the ECU. Don't cut the wire but splice into it and wire it to the Dakota Digital SGI-8 "signal in" terminal.

I think I need to amend this advice. In reading the instruction sheet that comes with the Dakota Digital tach drive box it says you can use the ground feed for an injector for a tach drive signal. Sorry.

[40flash]

OK. One more time,this time from experience....
I now have my stock S14 tach working perfectly with the Dakota Digital SGI-8D. Here is how you hook it up. It's really easy.
1. Any switched on with ignition 12V + to power in.
2. Run a ground to the ground input, DUH!
3. Signal in. Tap into, (don't cut) the yellow/red wire that feeds the number 1 cylinder coil wire. It feeds a ground signal from the ECU terminal 62 to the number 1 coil.
(side note) I tried the injector wire for the number 1 cylinder and it works but when you let off of the gas, the ECU shuts off the injector for a few seconds as you decellerate which interupts the tach signal for tha period of time and the tach shuts off until the injector gets turned on again. Trust me. Use the coil wire. No issues.
4. Output wire from the dakota Digital box to the tach. At the 240SX F3 plug there is a tach siganl wire that by coincidence is also Yellow/red (F3 terminal 26.) Plug this wire into the output 2 terninal.
Wiring is done.
5. there are 4 switches on the Dakota Digital box.
A. Switch 1, on.
B. Switch 2, off
C. Switch 3, on.
D. Switch 4, off
You're done. Drive it.

I'm also using a SGI-5C Dakota Digital box for the S14 stock speedo. It's hooked up to the ABS sensor in my Q45 diff with 3.54 ring & pinion and S15 helical limited slip. Their customer service is great. There are several different way to hook up their box and get your speedo working including their magnetic sensor on your drive line if you don't have a diff with a speed sensor. Buy the box and call them. They will walk you through the set-up over the phone.

[status]

OK. One more time,this time from experience....
I now have my stock S14 tach working perfectly with the Dakota Digital SGI-8D. Here is how you hook it up. It's really easy.
1. Any switched on with ignition 12V + to power in.
2. Run a ground to the ground input, DUH!
3. Signal in. Tap into, (don't cut) the yellow/red wire that feeds the number 1 cylinder coil wire. It feeds a ground signal from the ECU terminal 62 to the number 1 coil.
(side note) I tried the injector wire for the number 1 cylinder and it works but when you let off of the gas, the ECU shuts off the injector for a few seconds as you decellerate which interupts the tach signal for tha period of time and the tach shuts off until the injector gets turned on again. Trust me. Use the coil wire. No issues.
4. Output wire from the dakota Digital box to the tach. At the 240SX F3 plug there is a tach siganl wire that by coincidence is also Yellow/red. Plug this wire into the output 2 terninal.
Wireing is done.
5. there are 4 switches on the Dakota Digital box.
A. Switch 1, on.
B. Switch 2, off
C. Switch 3, on.
D. Switch 4, off
You're done. Drive it.

I'm also using a SGI-5C Dakota Digital box for the S14 stock speedo. It's hooked up to the ABS sensor in my Q45 diff with 3.54 ring & pinion and S15 helical limited slip. Their customer service is great. There are several different way to hook up their box and get your speedo working including their magnetic sensor on your drive line if you don't have a diff with a speed sensor. Buy the box and call them. They will walk you through the set-up over the phone.

Wow AWESOME info man! Congrats on getting everything working! BTW you mentioned the F3 plug, where exactly is that?

[ka-titties]

how are you guys wiring this ignition power wire in? its not listed in the write-up.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/dimitri24/96%20S14%20Build%20Pictures/ignsystem.png

referring to the 35 wire coming from the ecu relay and going out to all the coils

[Guilty1s]

how are you guys wiring this ignition power wire in? its not listed in the write-up.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/dimitri24/96%20S14%20Build%20Pictures/ignsystem.png

referring to the 35 wire coming from the ecu relay and going out to all the coils

I mention it here where I tally about the junction boxes

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/481752-vq35de-swap-info.html

[ka-titties]

Thanks for linking that. I didn't know you made a write-up.

[eZiR- rps13]

what did you guys do about the gas gauge?

[Guilty1s]

Stock... Nothing in that setup changes.

[40flash]

Wow AWESOME info man! Congrats on getting everything working! BTW you mentioned the F3 plug, where exactly is that?

The F3 plug is the plug near the ECU in the passenger foot well. This is where the engine loom plugs into the main or inside the car loom.

[40flash]

I had sent this info to a few of my friends but thought it I would post it here for all of the rest of you.
I took my 350SX to the Arizona DEQ this week. The tester opened the hood and looked it over. I explained that I had dual catalytic converters and all 4 oxygen sensors. He put the sniffer in the exhaust and ran the car. I didn’t ask whether he was testing it by 1995 240SX standards or 2004 350Z standards. Whatever, it was way cleaner than needed and passed with flying colors. It’s insured, legal and am driving it.
Next issue. It was way too loud and I was sure it would attract a lot of unwanted attention. I had originally installed a copy of a 40 series flowmaster for the back and an 18 inch glass pack in the middle below the driveline. It sounded pretty good but just way too loud for the street. So back to the muffler shop. I bought and installed a turbo muffler that is much quieter. Just a little bit of minor mods and it’s in there. It’s a turbo muffler style but larger than most of the typical 14 inch body 4 x 9 oval design. This one is a 5 x 11 oval with a 22 inch body length. It sounds great to me and no longer wakes the dead when I drive by a cemetery.
The new muffler is made by IMCO. Model T929.

[stefano260z]

Hi my name is stefano Begazo from Peru and i have a vq35de and also 260z so i have a question for the swap can i used the oem ecu and throttle body electronic because i dont know if i need a haltech or anther one open ecu thanks for the help

if i can use only the oem ecu NOT FLASHED which another things i need to use

ecu harnes
bcm
fuse box
throttle body
ecm
somethings else''?