SortaFlush
05-21-2011, 07:15 PM
Backround on the car;
I originally got the car non-running from a local guy. It had a DOHC KA in it that I had no desire to even try and find out why it didn't run. I already had an SR20DET, I swapped the engine in and at the same time also did a mild tuck (just rerouted the fuseboxes out side of the engine bay and wiring through the frame rails all by extending the wires and properly soldering the connections) As well as I relocated that battery to the trunk securely.
The car hasn't been built like most people do, where you get to spend a lot of time driving the car, putting a modification on here, there and later. I have bought a shit ton of parts and have put it together as I have had the time, so the car and I don't have much history nor chemistry right now. The complete modifications list would be;
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump (It wines very loud as well, sometimes gets quiet, but no changes in how it runs)
-SR20DET red top (just installed the SOHC MAF on thinking that it may be my problem)
-Brand new Ignitor
-PBM High mount intercooler (have re-installed all clamps thinking possible boost leak)
-Aftermarket Boost controller (manual)
-Prosport gauges (oil/water temp and oil pressure) ***I did wire these all up on a power distribution box feeding off the ignition switch wire that gives a constant +12.
-Clutch upgrade
-3inch straight pipe exhaust with a gutted cat
-New NGK BK7re spark plugs
That's all the "important" things I can really think of right now.
The PROBLEM:
It seems after I removed the CAS to tap into my upper water neck for my water temp gauge, is when the problem started. The thing that is stumping me though, is I have redone the CAS install on it a million times and with a timing light on the second notch from the left on the crank pulley, it is at +15 degrees, so it leads me to believe it is correctly installed but I am not sure. I can't tell what RPM the problem is really happening at but I can guesstimate by sound, seems around 3500-4500 RPM in First gear it breaks up and bogs down bad, in second gear around 2000+ RPM it bogs down, breaks up backfires and stutters and same with any other gear, basically I have to try and keep the car out of boost for it to keep going. Now if I try and do WOT, it will just go BAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW and not go anywhere. It is really irritating me.
A couple of things I haven't checked that I think may be related:
Possibly robbing too much power from ignition from gauges?
Fuel pump grounds (might have inconsistent ground)?
Maybe ground issue elsewhere? Not sure where all important grounds are located?
Factory ECT sensor bad?
I HAVE had the car running great after the swap and slid it, did first-third gear pulls on 7 and 12 psi no problem. If you have any suggestions, please let me know what to check and I will do that.
I originally got the car non-running from a local guy. It had a DOHC KA in it that I had no desire to even try and find out why it didn't run. I already had an SR20DET, I swapped the engine in and at the same time also did a mild tuck (just rerouted the fuseboxes out side of the engine bay and wiring through the frame rails all by extending the wires and properly soldering the connections) As well as I relocated that battery to the trunk securely.
The car hasn't been built like most people do, where you get to spend a lot of time driving the car, putting a modification on here, there and later. I have bought a shit ton of parts and have put it together as I have had the time, so the car and I don't have much history nor chemistry right now. The complete modifications list would be;
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump (It wines very loud as well, sometimes gets quiet, but no changes in how it runs)
-SR20DET red top (just installed the SOHC MAF on thinking that it may be my problem)
-Brand new Ignitor
-PBM High mount intercooler (have re-installed all clamps thinking possible boost leak)
-Aftermarket Boost controller (manual)
-Prosport gauges (oil/water temp and oil pressure) ***I did wire these all up on a power distribution box feeding off the ignition switch wire that gives a constant +12.
-Clutch upgrade
-3inch straight pipe exhaust with a gutted cat
-New NGK BK7re spark plugs
That's all the "important" things I can really think of right now.
The PROBLEM:
It seems after I removed the CAS to tap into my upper water neck for my water temp gauge, is when the problem started. The thing that is stumping me though, is I have redone the CAS install on it a million times and with a timing light on the second notch from the left on the crank pulley, it is at +15 degrees, so it leads me to believe it is correctly installed but I am not sure. I can't tell what RPM the problem is really happening at but I can guesstimate by sound, seems around 3500-4500 RPM in First gear it breaks up and bogs down bad, in second gear around 2000+ RPM it bogs down, breaks up backfires and stutters and same with any other gear, basically I have to try and keep the car out of boost for it to keep going. Now if I try and do WOT, it will just go BAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW and not go anywhere. It is really irritating me.
A couple of things I haven't checked that I think may be related:
Possibly robbing too much power from ignition from gauges?
Fuel pump grounds (might have inconsistent ground)?
Maybe ground issue elsewhere? Not sure where all important grounds are located?
Factory ECT sensor bad?
I HAVE had the car running great after the swap and slid it, did first-third gear pulls on 7 and 12 psi no problem. If you have any suggestions, please let me know what to check and I will do that.