SR20DET idles for 3 second then stall

[ska]

freshly swapped in s13 blacktop. For some reason the car doesn't want to idle, i would crank and it'll fire over up to 1500rpm then drop down to 0 in about 3 seconds unless i give it gas.

I've tested the tps voltage that seems to be good. I checked the IACV hose on the intercooler pipe for vacuum, there was vacuum so im guessing the IACV solenoid works?. I checked for boost leaks, none. Im all out of ideas now, the only thing i can think of left is the MAF which i will check later.

anybody have any other ideas? also i have no air filter on atm but i would not think that has any affect...


heres a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9NxqSoxK80

[ska]

okay I unplugged the maf to see if it made any difference. now it fluctuates between 500-2000rpm on start then dies 5 second later. so my guess would be the maf is still good since it made a difference whether its plugged in or not. there is nothing else i can think of that would cause my engine to stall immediately after i start it. i also checked the voltage on the maf plug and it gets full battery volt... any inputs?

[89240sex]

ive got money on the maf

[ska]

ive got money on the maf
i was thinking that but it should've went into limp mode if i unplugged it?

anyways heres a video of it
skip to 0:40 to see it start
YouTube - SR20DET stalls after start (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9NxqSoxK80)

[emu103]

I know this sounds simple but make sure you have gas

[ska]

so I used my friends maf and same result. at first it idled at 2500 for a while (probably because the engine was flooded) then i turned it back off and on and it died after few seconds. I rev tested and it seems to not want to go pass 3000rpm (but a few times it did) which leads me to believe either my maf wiring is wrong or my fuel pump took a dump on me. ill update again soon after a few trial and errors.

[ska]

update: so i finally got around to mess with the car. when i first cranked it, it randomly wanted to idle and not die! it was idling at 2500rpm again, that gave me a chance to get out of the car and look at the engine bay, i noticed white smoke coming from the turbo and also a hissing sound ( sounded like an air leak ) this maybe causing my idling problem, could this be the work of a faulty turbo seal?...i turned it off and cranked it again 2nd time and resulted in stalling after a few seconds again. i also did a fuel pressure test; key on and crank was at 42psi and when i give it some gas to prevent it from stalling out it dropped to 38psi. maybe this is why the engine cuts off after 3000rpm. im running a stock ka fuel pump.

[BestOneLeft]

update: so i finally got around to mess with the car. when i first cranked it, it randomly wanted to idle and not die! it was idling at 2500rpm again, that gave me a chance to get out of the car and look at the engine bay, i noticed white smoke coming from the turbo and also a hissing sound ( sounded like an air leak ) this maybe causing my idling problem...i turned it off and cranked it again 2nd time and resulted in stalling after a few seconds again. i also did a fuel pressure test; key on and crank was at 42psi and when i give it some gas to prevent it from stalling out it dropped to 38psi. maybe this is why the engine cuts off after 3000rpm. im running a stock ka fuel pump.

The white smoke from the turbo is normal for a freshly swaped engine. (when it heats up it burns whatever film of oil and whatnot is on it. )

I would look into the hissing sound, the way it shuts off definitely looks like a boost leak. Are you running the factory recirculating valve? make sure its not stuck open causing a leak. Check all your vacuum lines make sure they are routed correctly and not leaking. Touch the IC pipes wiggle them around see if it makes a difference in the motor.

You need a walboro anyways but if I were you id make the car idle first then move on from there.

I noticed you do not have a air filter, I have had sr's shut off and not idle with a open MAFS (like how you have yours) once I pop a filter on bang idle. should put one on.

Those 2 plugs you show at the beginning of the video are useless don't worry about those. )they are for the stock boost solenoid)

[ska]

The white smoke from the turbo is normal for a freshly swaped engine. (when it heats up it burns whatever film of oil and whatnot is on it. )

I would look into the hissing sound, the way it shuts off definitely looks like a boost leak. Are you running the factory recirculating valve? make sure its not stuck open causing a leak. Check all your vacuum lines make sure they are routed correctly and not leaking. Touch the IC pipes wiggle them around see if it makes a difference in the motor.

You need a walboro anyways but if I were you id make the car idle first then move on from there.

I noticed you do not have a air filter, I have had sr's shut off and not idle with a open MAFS (like how you have yours) once I pop a filter on bang idle. should put one on.

Those 2 plugs you show at the beginning of the video are useless don't worry about those. )they are for the stock boost solenoid)

Yes i am running the factory recirculation. how would i check if the valve open or not? i assume a vacuum pump or some sort. I've tried my buddys air filter, didn't really make a difference but i will buy one soon. also thanks for the input on the 2 plugs i actually figured it was for the solenoid since it was the only plugs that matched but i wont worry about that for now.

[BestOneLeft]

Yes i am running the factory recirculation. how would i check if the valve open or not? i assume a vacuum pump or some sort. I've tried my buddys air filter, didn't really make a difference. also thanks for the input on the 2 plugs i actually figured it was for the solenoid since it was the only plugs that matched but i wont worry about that for now.

You see that hose that goes from the side mount to the intake tube? Pull that off and block it off . i think its the same size as a 2 liter bottle cap. lol

Keep playing with it, its going to be a small bug.

[BestOneLeft]

I know this is random, Is the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster hooked up? and not just leaking?

[ska]

You see that hose that goes from the side mount to the intake tube? Pull that off and block it off . i think its the same size as a 2 liter bottle cap. lol

Keep playing with it, its going to be a small bug.

lol ok. i just have a feeling this idle problem is something stupid and ill end up having a good laugh later on about this.

I know this is random, Is the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster hooked up? and not just leaking?
yes its hooked up, dont know if its leaking or not actually i will check.

[jr_ss]

Sounds like you have a major vacuum leak. Make sure there arent any, what so ever. I'd also mess with the IACV and dial it in. Pull the plastic plug out and spray some carb cleaner in there, with the motor off of course. Reinstall the plug and restart. Adjusting the IACV in will lower idle, out increases idle.

[SLiDe_WaYz]

Check your gasket on your iacv, intake manifold gasket as well. My car had almost the same thing. Turns out the iacv had no gasket. Which was only part of my problem.

Hell check your throttle body make sure the gasket there is good you never know.

[ska]

Check your gasket on your iacv, intake manifold gasket as well. My car had almost the same thing. Turns out the iacv had no gasket. Which was only part of my problem.

Hell check your throttle body make sure the gasket there is good you never know.

alright i guess i will be ripping apart the intake btw should there be any RTV applied to any of these gaskets? what about the metal turbo gaskets such as the inlet and outlet flange of the compressor? RTV?

i checked the recirculation valve and it seems to be closed so i dont think thats my prob.

[240sx-pat]

LOL Mine did the exact same thing when I did the swap but that's because I left the 3 vacuum nipple at the throttle alone . I just wanted to see if my car would fire up with new ECU I was troubleshooting , but once I hooked up everything car idled good.


I have the vacumm below the throttle going to the canister as well as the top right nipple the top left is T'd off to my BOV and boost gauge.

I have a different problem at the moment. After I drive around enough to where the car warms up and come to a stop my car bogs and act like it wants to stall but idle will pick back up after about 5-6 second , if I shut off the car while is warm and start it back up it will die unless I give it some gas

[Carbomb]

Fuel pressure regulator is the return line. make sure the fuel lines are right.

[inopsey]

do you have an upgraded fuel pump and good fuel pressure? i had a sr20 do that with a factory fuel pump, changed it to a warlboro hp and that was the problem.

[HAWAII]

it's walbro! dammit! if your fuel pump is ticking/priming when you put your key to ON position, then your pump is fine. It's always a good idea to change it to a higher gph rating pump. Check your plugs for the condition, I have not read that you pulled it to check.

[ska]

LOL Mine did the exact same thing when I did the swap but that's because I left the 3 vacuum nipple at the throttle alone . I just wanted to see if my car would fire up with new ECU I was troubleshooting , but once I hooked up everything car idled good.


I have the vacumm below the throttle going to the canister as well as the top right nipple the top left is T'd off to my BOV and boost gauge.

I have a different problem at the moment. After I drive around enough to where the car warms up and come to a stop my car bogs and act like it wants to stall but idle will pick back up after about 5-6 second , if I shut off the car while is warm and start it back up it will die unless I give it some gas

the nipple on left top goes to my fpr, the one on the right is blocked off with a screw, and the big one below the throttle goes to my recirculation valve. I removed my canister( but i might put it back on once i get a fmic ) blocked off all the canister lines and waste gate line goes to my cold pipe nipple.atm i do not have my boost gauge installed, i just wanna see this thing run first before i do anything else.

Fuel pressure regulator is the return line. make sure the fuel lines are right.

yup i have them corrected.

do you have an upgraded fuel pump and good fuel pressure? i had a sr20 do that with a factory fuel pump, changed it to a warlboro hp and that was the problem.


it's walbro! dammit! if your fuel pump is ticking/priming when you put your key to ON position, then your pump is fine. It's always a good idea to change it to a higher gph rating pump. Check your plugs for the condition, I have not read that you pulled it to check.

no I do not. I have a stock KA fuel pump but i can hear it priming when i turn the key on. i did a fuel pressure test (stated in one of my post above) and it reads 42 psi on both 'key on' and crank, but it drops to 38 psi when giving it gas, but it should be enough to keep my engine idling at least..I have put in brand new NGK iridiums, toss those old plug suckers out, it was black as shit lol.

[SLiDe_WaYz]

the nipple on left top goes to my fpr, the one on the right is blocked off with a screw, and the big one below the throttle goes to my recirculation valve. I removed my canister( but i might put it back on once i get a fmic ) blocked off all the canister lines and waste gate line goes to my cold pipe nipple.atm i do not have my boost gauge installed, i just wanna see this thing run first before i do anything else.



yup i have them corrected.






no I do not. I have a stock KA fuel pump but i can hear it priming when i turn the key on. i did a fuel pressure test (stated in one of my post above) and it reads 42 psi on both 'key on' and crank, but it drops to 38 psi when giving it gas, but it should be enough to keep my engine idling at least..I have put in brand new NGK iridiums, toss those old plug suckers out, it was black as shit lol.



Dude with any swap always put in a new better fuel pump, fuel lines, and if need be a fpr. Especially install a bigger, better fuel pump. Think of it like this, your stock fuel pump was made to support the stock 130hp, you just installed a engine that stock put down 200, not including the upped boost or anything.

[HAWAII]

pull your plugs again, see the color, check to see if they are wet. I suggest using 300ZX TT pugs instead. Also check if you are getting spark.

[ska]

update: I disconnected the IAC plugs and cranked it, it didnt make a difference, it would still stall out within the first 2 seconds. disconnected the tps and cranked it, and it idles!!! but it fluctuates between 1000-3000rpm. So now to my knowledge, that the IAC must be fucked, since it didn't make a difference in whether its plugged in or not, but i am going to be checking that tps sensor first before i decide to pull apart that intake and check out that IAC.

Does anybody know if a tps on another vehicle is the same as a s13 blacktop? or part number?

[BestOneLeft]

if you rev it up does the engine run at all? willl it stay on

[ska]

if you rev it up does the engine run at all? willl it stay on

yes it will stay running if i keep it revving. There is also a big hesitation when i press the gas pedal, 2 seconds later the engine will respond and rev up.

[ska]

SO im back from vacation and ready to tackle this thing!

I hooked up my boost gauge and T it off the fpr. Cranked it and vacuum reads 9inHG (still doesn't idle) so then i give it some gas up to 2500rpm and it reads 19inHG~~. My question is, when does it actually build boost? and are those readings anything to worry about?? I will update with a boost leak test as soon as a can grab a tester...

[240sx-pat]

9HG ? shouldn't it be around 20HG when idle that's what mine usually read if not a lil more

[ska]

hey guys so i did a boost leak and the system is fully sealed so thats being crossed out. the only thing I can really think of anymore is either the a malfunctioning tps, maf, or iacv.

Does anybody know how you can test/diagnose to see if the IACV is working properly?

[inopsey]

have you changed out the stock fuel pump yet?

[OkiDori17]

have you checked your maf wiring?
and check how dirty your IACV is, take it off and clean it really well with seafoam or similar...or if you have the money, get a new one theyre usually like 250-300$

hope you figure it out soon =]

[Darren]

If the maf wiring was backwards, it would be billowing black smoke like a diesel truck. At least mine did when i did that. So if it's not doing that, it's likely correct.

Sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak, just have to find it. I think you're on the right track with the IACV. They are often the biggest cause of major vacuum leaks.

Check all the ports on and around the Intake manifold and on the Throttle Body and make sure they have a hose on them, or at least a block off.

Squeeze all the vacuum hoses and make sure none are dry and cracking. Also when you squeeze them, see if the idle changes (or it does idle).

You may also need to check that your TPS is functioning correctly. You stated that it idled in limp mode with the TPS disconnected. I don't recall the exact procedure, but it's on Zilvia somewhere.

Also, there's no need for a new fuel pump if you're running the motor @ stock boost. I ran my sr20 @ 10lbs for a year with the stock pump before upgrading to a walbro, and i drifted it so it's not like it wasn't seeing some abuse.

That said, it IS recommended for the longevity of your motor.

Good luck, keep us posted, i'm sure it's just around the corner.

[ska]

So I pulled the IACV, took off the solenoid and found some corrosion and cleaned it off. I then found a spring that goes some where with the solenoid I believe but not sure where...does anybody know where this spring goes?
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p253/gviet209/IMG_0940.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p253/gviet209/IMG_0944.jpg

[JDMRIDDAZ]

hey did u check if iacv is getting 12v...
had this issue...blk/yellow wire at the 2 plugs by where the battery was...

[ska]

hey did u check if iacv is getting 12v...
had this issue...blk/yellow wire at the 2 plugs by where the battery was...

i actually couldn't find anything on the web that tells me how to diagnose a faulty IACV. Is is suppose to be 12v with key on? or engine on? I guess I will check voltage as soon as I put everything back together.

[JDMRIDDAZ]

cause theres no posts or anything about this...
i had to figure it out on my own....going back over the frsport guide and i found it
half the funky idle issues ppl have with sr20det swaps is wiring....
alot of the wires dont get full 12v ign on
or running....
ive rewired my whole swap..
jumped alt to main terminal
then ecu
coilpacks
and fuel pump
with relays and heavy wire and ive had great results...
just check it out

[ska]

Mission Accomplished.

It was infact a dirty IACV solenoid, had tons of corrosion on it.I wanna thank zilvia and its community through this long process. It looks like I will be sticking around after all, so congratulate yourselves and each other because you earned another daily member of this great forum.

*Ska chills with Zilvia.net*

[OkiDori17]

congrats man =]

[1990 sr hatch]

im no pro but i'd check the o2 my ma's lexus would idle like dookie and die unless i put it in drive give it gas and redlights sucked haha

[89240sex]

He already fixed it. Stop bumping an old thread.