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View Full Version : KA24DE Swap no start, has fuel, spark, compression


Pro ViZIon
04-03-2011, 12:41 PM
Ok so maybe you guys can help me out with this nightmare lol.
I've been searching for about 2 weeks now.

So car is a '90 hatch with a '93 engine/trans & ECU. When I first got the motor in I never bothered to open up the valve cover and check the cam timing. I figured it would be ok. But it apparently wasn't. Exhaust side was way off and when I hit the starter I was taking out valves :bite:. Afterwards re-timed it and did a compression test, wasn't too good.

Cyl 1 - 115psi, Cyl 2 - 50psi, Cyl 3 - 90psi & Cyl - 110psi. Not good so I bought another head which came from a 95. While I was at it I replaced the piston rings and rod bearings and bought a cometic headgasket and arp head studs. Compression is now between 150-160psi. Plan on building up the original head to replace the '95 later on.

Now that everything is better and all back together I can't seem to get it to start. I confirmed spark by cranking with a plug on top of the valve cover. Spark was yellowish however but the plug was old. I know I'm getting fuel because I can smell it when I crank and smell from the exhaust. Set ignition timing time and time again and its right on the money I believe. When its in and set at tdc the rotor is pointing perfectly at plug #1. And yes I made sure I set it one compression stroke. Its a little hard cause I have to tap it in there with a mallet.

I checked the ecu for codes and I'm getting a code 11 (cas) & code 34 (knock sensor). I'm not sure if it would throw a code 11 just if the timing was off or not. I haven't been able to try another one. Also the PO had simplified the intake manifold a lot. There are only say 4 vacuum lines left.

I know it was a little long but didn't want to leave any info out.


Thanks in advance.

240driftr
04-03-2011, 07:32 PM
check your knock sensor. if its bad itll give you that problem your having. let me know how it goes

Pro ViZIon
04-03-2011, 07:43 PM
It'll keep it from starting?

240driftr
04-04-2011, 07:32 AM
It'll crank over but it won't start. Also check your main wire for ur coil pack off the distributer

Pro ViZIon
04-06-2011, 08:48 PM
Ok so I was so close. It was at the point where it would run for a few seconds or so , so I'm guessing the timing was off but my damn dizzy basically broke in half lol. So I need to get a new one now.

JDMRIDDAZ
04-07-2011, 08:58 PM
uh if ur dizzy doesnt slide in easy then the idler gear bolt hole maybe ben or the bolt it self
on the ka its supposed to slide in smoothly..lol
and when u set dizzy it has to point behind 1 when u slide it in then it rests at 1
if u understand that

Pro ViZIon
04-07-2011, 09:29 PM
Yeah when I set it. Set the idler a little back so when it goes in its at 1. I'll definitely be doing that when I get another one.

i83fish
04-08-2011, 06:08 PM
Here is a nice guide if you need it: 240sx Distributor Timing (http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/240sx-distributor-timing.html)

If your engine doesn't run after you get the dizzy maybe look at your fuel lines, that was my problem: I could crank my engine and it would have random combustion every now and again.

Here is a picture of correct fuel lines: Ka24de by vaioalii on Photobucket (http://media.photobucket.com/image/ka24de%20clean%20engine%20bay/vaioalii/Picture006.jpg)

hope this helps somewhat,
Andrew

rb25_s13*CHUKI
04-08-2011, 06:17 PM
take a pic for us