S13 SR20DET Tomei Solid Pivot HELP

[rebornS14]

i just installed Tomei solid pivots and cams on my SR and at idle its not much noisier than a SR with just aftermarket cams, but when i rev it up passed 2000rpm i starts ticking and tacking real bad. The shims and guides were measured by a professional mechanic and since its good at idle i feel he did it right, so whys it sounding like a diesel above 2k? i did a google search and all i found was install tips with broken picture links. any technical advice would be great at this point. please feel free to chime in. your help would be greatly appreciated.

Parts used:
TOMEI ProCam 260 Degree 12.00mm Lift (Solid Lifter) intake and exhaust
Tomei Solid Pivots / Lifters
Tomei Test Shims + additional various sizes after checking clearances
Tomei SR20DET Rocker arm stoppers
Brian Crower BC0200 BC Valve Springs / Retainer Kit SR20DET

[codyace]

Why would you not run the springs Tomei suggests...i'll never understand the fascination with cheapass BC stuff.

Regardless of that, Solid valvetrains are going to be loud...I can't say it should be so loud you hear it as you drive, but with hood open you certainly will.

[UNITEDMASTER]

Well if its ticking & tacking loud enough to cause concern then to me something is wrong.

For starters since its in the head(BC SPRINGS) you need to compare its specs VS tomei springs to rule that out. thats the first mistake.

Next when the head was prepeped all stem heights should have been ground to a .STD length . EX & IN seperate.

Now when the valve job is performed care should be taken to get your cut, with as minimal material as possible removed from seat.MUST NOT SINK THE VALVE UNACCEPTABLE.

Now seats need to be hand lapped. all valves should now be mocked up no spring. Now measure seated stem height. Hand lappe to get them all as close to deapest valve as possible

Now ASSM head & engine now shim as per TOMEI instructions.

There is alot that goes into using sollid lifters than most people think.
Also IMHO that cam is too much for those springs in terms of lift.

Also you need to shim once on the tight side, cold. Warm the motor recheck clearances,ADJ as needed to strive to bee on the tight side.

. O yea I almost forgot that all your spring heights need to be checked. In & OUT of the head. Especially the BC stuff I have seen some big swings in a set out of the box. Remember NOW a few MM in height = manny thousands of an inch.

TOMEI sells spring sheets to adj. this

[rebornS14]

Why would you not run the springs Tomei suggests...i'll never understand the fascination with cheapass BC stuff.

Regardless of that, Solid valvetrains are going to be loud...I can't say it should be so loud you hear it as you drive, but with hood open you certainly will.

i have another car with a simular setup. Tomei cams, solid lifters with supertech valvetrain and its not loud at all. i got BC on this one because the guy (i forgot his handle) >LINK HERE< (http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to-build-a-9000-rpm-sr20det-head.html) that wrote the big article on a 9000rpm SR20DET head used the same setup and its been fine. anyways, i found the problem which ill explain to the next poster.



Well if its ticking & tacking loud enough to cause concern then to me something is wrong.

For starters since its in the head(BC SPRINGS) you need to compare its specs VS tomei springs to rule that out. thats the first mistake.

Next when the head was prepeped all stem heights should have been ground to a .STD length . EX & IN seperate.

Now when the valve job is performed care should be taken to get your cut, with as minimal material as possible removed from seat.MUST NOT SINK THE VALVE UNACCEPTABLE.

Now seats need to be hand lapped. all valves should now be mocked up no spring. Now measure seated stem height. Hand lappe to get them all as close to deapest valve as possible

Now ASSM head & engine now shim as per TOMEI instructions.

There is alot that goes into using sollid lifters than most people think.
Also IMHO that cam is too much for those springs in terms of lift.

Also you need to shim once on the tight side, cold. Warm the motor recheck clearances,ADJ as needed to strive to bee on the tight side.

. O yea I almost forgot that all your spring heights need to be checked. In & OUT of the head. Especially the BC stuff I have seen some big swings in a set out of the box. Remember NOW a few MM in height = manny thousands of an inch.

TOMEI sells spring sheets to adj. this


thank you for your reply, all that was done and i just got home from working on my car again and was able to find the problem. we started by taking off the valve cover and checking clearances. we didnt really find any clearance issues except for #1 exhaust which was .008 bigger in gap than the others so we replaced with the next size shim guide and put everything back together.

started her up and it was pretty much the same thing. super quite at idle, and above 2k it would just get super noisy. clikin and a clackin'

we used a stethoscope to try and source the noise which we did earlier that made us change a shim/guide on one that wasnt too bad. anyways the noise was comming from the front of the motor. not the valvetrain. started looking into the cam pulley, thinking we might need to torque it down again. i had a new CAS that i wanted to put in so we figured we'd take off the valvecover again and check the cam bolts and as my friend was going to take off the CAS we noticed the bolts weren't on tight at all. it was VERY loose. i was able to take it off with my fingers. so WHA LAH, we figured that was it. we tighted it up, turned the car on, checked the timing and rev'd it up and noticed alot of the clickin and clackin went away. it was there but slightly and only between 2-3500k.

i guess it damaged the CAS cause the noise wouldn't completely go away was barely noticable. gonna take off the valve cover again and put the new CAS in tomorrow. im pretty sure that will do it. of course it was human error. =/

keep you posted tomorrow.

[codyace]

that wrote the big article on a 9000rpm SR20DET head used the same setup and its been fine. anyways, i found the problem which ill explain to the next poster.

In the world of cars 'been fine' doesn't me 'done right'. There is so much more voodoo math involved with springs that it's often hard to understand, so many don't...they just throw some seat pressure at the springs, and hope they work...often times it will...but if you were to look into how much vibration is created from a spring that isn't designed peroperly, on a cam lobe that isn't designed with that spring (or on a crappy BC cam with no specific lobe face, thankfully you don't have them) you'd really reconsider what you have.

In the end of the day, you can be rest assured BC didn't test them on a car with SLA's.


As UNITEDMASTER stated, there is plenty more than 'bolt in shim and roll' for most SLA kits to work properly. I've only ever setup one, and it was for a non street based car...it's somethign that I'm not sure even I could live with for a daily driven (summertime) car.





i guess it damaged the CAS cause the noise wouldn't completely go away was barely noticable. gonna take off the valve cover again and put the new CAS in tomorrow. im pretty sure that will do it. of course it was human error. =/

Keep us posted

keep you posted tomorrow.[/QUOTE]

[rebornS14]

the problem was the upper timing chain bracket (metal one) that was missing and causing the chain to get too loose and hit the valve cover. putting it on soon. =/