Nismobound
12-31-2010, 05:35 AM
Hello everyone,
I have a Rebuilt 97' KA24DE in a 93' SE S13 with 1200 Miles on it and properly broken in. I've been running 30weight Non Detergent Motor oil in it since the rebuild, then the night before i had problems i changed the oil to Castrol 5-30w synthetic. Here's the problem. I pushed the motor to its limits for the first time, after the first two drifts the motor started losing power rapidly. I had a huge lack of acceleration and speed and the motor sounded like a Subaru, like it was running on two cylinders.
My friend said he had seen this problem before and it was either cause of bad Injectors, Spark Plugs or S.P. wires, I've installed brand new sparkplugs and NKG S.P. wires i also installed the injectors off a working motor and cleaned the rail. I'm still having the same problem. I have a feeling i might have a bent valve because the Head has bad shims, they were adjusted wrong during the rebuild but i still drove it 1200 miles with good power.
If anyone has a idea to what could have happened please let me know. Remember my motor lost its power while i was drifting smoothly and suddenly began to lose its power. I was able to drive the car 50 miles back home but struggled to maintain high speeds without excessive heavy throttling. During the drive i had bad bogging issues and lack of acceleration. When i got it home i replaced the injectors and drove it the next morning the car poured out BLUE smoke (something i might not have noticed the night the motor lost its power) and it was still having acceleration and bogging problems.The motor also dies when i don't give it gas periodically during idle. I ran a compression test and the results are: Cylinder 1: 208 - Clyinder 2: 174 - Cylinder 3:174 - Cylinder 4: 174. I've exhausted my brain on the possible fixes to this problem please give me your feed-back but read the bold below first!
Please READ the description of the motor before explaining your theory on the fix.
I have a 97' Rebuilt KA24DE in a 93' SE S13 with about 1200 miles on it and I'd broken it in myself.
Description of Engine and Mods: The Crank Angle Sensor is increased 5 degrees and im running 93 octane. The Head has bad shims to begin with and makes noise occasionally. I've made alot of changes in the swap and ill explain. I've Deleted E.G.R, covered the hole left & capped vacuum lines, Deleted Fuel charcoal canister & Deleted AIRV, Deleted A/C & Heater, Unit and full part assembly and lines. I know that i have clean connections and, i know i don't have Vacuum leaks, unplugged/cut wires or clog Intake/exhaust/fuel filter/lines & parts. Check Engine Light comes on occasionally because i have no E.G.R when the check engine light comes on and off, there is no difference in power.
Parts installed: New fuel filter, Hockey puck Engine mounts/ Engine Dampener, Mishimoto Rad. with dual fans, hoses and relay, wrapped Cold Air with HKS filter, New spark plugs and NGK Spark plug wires, Wrapped Megan Headers.
Parts I'm installing in the morning: Megan downpipe w/ flexpipe &canister. Megan Test Pipe. This will take away exhaust flow problems.
I've given my full description of my problems and have reviewed the post twice! This is exactly whats going on with my car forsure!
Thank You for reading and your feedback is highly valued.
Happy New Years!
I have a Rebuilt 97' KA24DE in a 93' SE S13 with 1200 Miles on it and properly broken in. I've been running 30weight Non Detergent Motor oil in it since the rebuild, then the night before i had problems i changed the oil to Castrol 5-30w synthetic. Here's the problem. I pushed the motor to its limits for the first time, after the first two drifts the motor started losing power rapidly. I had a huge lack of acceleration and speed and the motor sounded like a Subaru, like it was running on two cylinders.
My friend said he had seen this problem before and it was either cause of bad Injectors, Spark Plugs or S.P. wires, I've installed brand new sparkplugs and NKG S.P. wires i also installed the injectors off a working motor and cleaned the rail. I'm still having the same problem. I have a feeling i might have a bent valve because the Head has bad shims, they were adjusted wrong during the rebuild but i still drove it 1200 miles with good power.
If anyone has a idea to what could have happened please let me know. Remember my motor lost its power while i was drifting smoothly and suddenly began to lose its power. I was able to drive the car 50 miles back home but struggled to maintain high speeds without excessive heavy throttling. During the drive i had bad bogging issues and lack of acceleration. When i got it home i replaced the injectors and drove it the next morning the car poured out BLUE smoke (something i might not have noticed the night the motor lost its power) and it was still having acceleration and bogging problems.The motor also dies when i don't give it gas periodically during idle. I ran a compression test and the results are: Cylinder 1: 208 - Clyinder 2: 174 - Cylinder 3:174 - Cylinder 4: 174. I've exhausted my brain on the possible fixes to this problem please give me your feed-back but read the bold below first!
Please READ the description of the motor before explaining your theory on the fix.
I have a 97' Rebuilt KA24DE in a 93' SE S13 with about 1200 miles on it and I'd broken it in myself.
Description of Engine and Mods: The Crank Angle Sensor is increased 5 degrees and im running 93 octane. The Head has bad shims to begin with and makes noise occasionally. I've made alot of changes in the swap and ill explain. I've Deleted E.G.R, covered the hole left & capped vacuum lines, Deleted Fuel charcoal canister & Deleted AIRV, Deleted A/C & Heater, Unit and full part assembly and lines. I know that i have clean connections and, i know i don't have Vacuum leaks, unplugged/cut wires or clog Intake/exhaust/fuel filter/lines & parts. Check Engine Light comes on occasionally because i have no E.G.R when the check engine light comes on and off, there is no difference in power.
Parts installed: New fuel filter, Hockey puck Engine mounts/ Engine Dampener, Mishimoto Rad. with dual fans, hoses and relay, wrapped Cold Air with HKS filter, New spark plugs and NGK Spark plug wires, Wrapped Megan Headers.
Parts I'm installing in the morning: Megan downpipe w/ flexpipe &canister. Megan Test Pipe. This will take away exhaust flow problems.
I've given my full description of my problems and have reviewed the post twice! This is exactly whats going on with my car forsure!
Thank You for reading and your feedback is highly valued.
Happy New Years!