Need help with hardware sizing

[DJPimpFlex]

I'm trying to order a set of nord-lock washers and jet nuts for my sr20det turbo to manifold studs. I can't seem to make heads or tales of the mcmaster catalog. I'm pretty sure the studs are m8x1.25, but I don't know exactly what size washer and jet nut would fit that.

Anyone mind spoon feeding me?

McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#jet-nuts/=a1u9gc)

McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=a1u86q)

[codyace]

Your best bet is to run OEM type hardware, and the locking plates (both can be sourced at the dealer from a 300zx turbo. The nord lock and conically locking stuff really end up coming loose as it is due to their poor heat charecteristics

[DRIFTING_SIL_EIGHTY]

I would agree with codyace. If installed properly it wont come loose. But if you still decide to use the other stuff and the studs are m8x1.25, then you'd want to get m8 washers and nuts.

For the nuts, this is easier to order since it says m8 specifically.
Metric Jetnuts, Metric K-Nuts, Jet Nut (http://ballerbolts.com/jetnuthogrof.html)

[DJPimpFlex]

Idk I have locking tabs on it right now and maybe they were installed incorrectly, but they came loose. I also welded the studs on top of the manifold so they can't come loose either. I was hoping the combination of the washers and tapered nuts would solve my problem. At least I can get in there and tighten them at the track if needed. With the locking plates I can't get a tool in there to tighten them and it ended my day early at my last track day.

[codyace]

Idk I have locking tabs on it right now and maybe they were installed incorrectly, but they came loose. I also welded the studs on top of the manifold so they can't come loose either. I was hoping the combination of the washers and tapered nuts would solve my problem. At least I can get in there and tighten them at the track if needed. With the locking plates I can't get a tool in there to tighten them and it ended my day early at my last track day.

There really isn't a 'correct' tool for the locking tabs...I've always just taken a flat blade screwedriver and peened it up with a hammer over the nut itself. Obviously you can only do this properly with the manifold and stuff off the car.

I've forever used the OE Z hardware and gasket on both FWD and RWD, with the tabs and never had an issue even with countless track days. Not saying that the conically locking ones won't work, but under heat (especially in the turbo area) you're looking at them loosening as they loose their mechacnical locking ability over time.

[lok]

I have always had bad experience with the turbo nuts coming loose after around 15k miles.

Since I changed 4 turbos in 2 years ca18 t25, sr t25, s14 t28, 2871r I went from

stage 8 ( not heat friendly)

welding

to safety wire.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l208/aukalok/2010-04-05195754.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l208/aukalok/2010-04-05195818.jpg