leaky head gasket

[fufanu180]

no milky coolant, no smoke from the exhaust, but there are small continuous bubbles coming up when trying to bleed the system and won't stop.

Would a normal head gasket sealant fix this or do I need to focus on a coolant system sealant?

If I have to take off the head again I mind as well completely build it. HAha.

BUt of course that is trying to be avoided.

[jspaeth]

no milky coolant, no smoke from the exhaust, but there are small continuous bubbles coming up when trying to bleed the system and won't stop.

Would a normal head gasket sealant fix this or do I need to focus on a coolant system sealant?

If I have to take off the head again I mind as well completely build it. HAha.

BUt of course that is trying to be avoided.

what kind of motor, what mods, what are your goals?

If it's a stock KA and you are just using the car for basic transportation, the answer may be different than if it is a built SR or RB that you are trying to make 300+ hp with.

[nismoracingsx]

if you keep getting bubbles but are doubting any HG issues, then it just sounds like you have a leak somewhere..get a tester kit and apply the factory pressure listed on your cap to your system and watch/listen for leaks. Hope this helps.

[fufanu180]

what kind of motor, what mods, what are your goals?

If it's a stock KA and you are just using the car for basic transportation, the answer may be different than if it is a built SR or RB that you are trying to make 300+ hp with.

The motor is an sr with an apexi head gasket, fmic, koyo radiator, dif fan controller, and altima fans, full exhaust, and a boost controller. Pretty much a dd.

if you keep getting bubbles but are doubting any HG issues, then it just sounds like you have a leak somewhere..get a tester kit and apply the factory pressure listed on your cap to your system and watch/listen for leaks. Hope this helps.

My only idea is that the bubbles are coming from a small crack in the hg and the pressure is releasing into the coolant system.

[modulation]

no milky coolant, no smoke from the exhaust, but there are small continuous bubbles coming up when trying to bleed the system and won't stop.

Would a normal head gasket sealant fix this or do I need to focus on a coolant system sealant?

If I have to take off the head again I mind as well completely build it. HAha.

BUt of course that is trying to be avoided.

Have you changed your oil yet? Change it and look at it in the sun. I'd guess you have a head gasket leak, and there is coolant in there.

The coolant system is under pressure, so bubbles wouldn't appear if there was a leak, coolant would leak out. The only thing that would be high enough to push air into the coolant system would be a leak in the head-gasket.

Head gasket sealant is like snake oil. Best it does is buy you a couple of weeks, worst it does it get all in your coolant system and oil and everywhere else. Don't use it please.

[fufanu180]

Have you changed your oil yet? Change it and look at it in the sun. I'd guess you have a head gasket leak, and there is coolant in there.

The coolant system is under pressure, so bubbles wouldn't appear if there was a leak, coolant would leak out. The only thing that would be high enough to push air into the coolant system would be a leak in the head-gasket.

Head gasket sealant is like snake oil. Best it does is buy you a couple of weeks, worst it does it get all in your coolant system and oil and everywhere else. Don't use it please.


I'll change the oil soon and see if coolant is visible. I'm almost certain it is a leak. so now that that is settled is there maybe a way to fix it without tearing the head off?

I was wondering maybe the head studs need to be checked. I couldn't imagine it's a massive hole in the hg.

[modulation]

I was wondering maybe the head studs need to be checked. I couldn't imagine it's a massive hole in the hg.

Have you ever replaced the head-gasket? If it's the stock head gasket then yeah it's probably gone bad. Why would it be the head studs?
Stock uses head bolts.

Head-gaskets go bad over-time.

The hole doesn't have to to be big at all, everything is under extreme pressure.

[fufanu180]

STEEL SEAL!

pretty much considered snake oil?

[fufanu180]

Have you ever replaced the head-gasket? If it's the stock head gasket then yeah it's probably gone bad. Why would it be the head studs?
Stock uses head bolts.

Head-gaskets go bad over-time.

The hole doesn't have to to be big at all, everything is under extreme pressure.

Replaced the head gasket with an apexi and replaced the head bolts with arp studs and nuts.

[japslapsilvia]

Replaced the head gasket with an apexi and replaced the head bolts with arp studs and nuts.


did u re-torque headstuds?

also do a leak down...that will tell u if it is head gasket.

[fufanu180]

did u re-torque headstuds?

also do a leak down...that will tell u if it is head gasket.

I haven't re torqued the head studs. Should i?

[modulation]

I haven't re torqued the head studs. Should i?

No. ARP head studs don't need to be re-torqued. I put mine on almost a year ago and have done thousands of miles and no problems.

Did you clean your head and block well and get all the old gasket material off?
Did you get the head checked for warpage?

[fufanu180]

No. ARP head studs don't need to be re-torqued. I put mine on almost a year ago and have done thousands of miles and no problems.

Did you clean your head and block well and get all the old gasket material off?
Did you get the head checked for warpage?

I Had the head checked to see if it was warped and then had it decked so I couldn't imagine it was a mating problem. I cleaned up the block to the best of my ability as well.

ONe thing I noticed though is that the coolant when sitting after a while has a little black crap that sits at the top. MAkes me think a cylinder is leaking into the coolant system.

[jspaeth]

No. ARP head studs don't need to be re-torqued. I put mine on almost a year ago and have done thousands of miles and no problems.


Well that is just flat out false. I recently installed them and called ARP Tech Support to ask about this, and they STRONGLY recommended retorquing.


For example, mine were 85 ft-lbs max....so I did this....drove the car easy for 500 miles or so, then retorqued, and it DID require extra turning to get them back to 85 ft-lbs.


It is highly recommended you retorque them. I'm not saying you might not get away with it, but it is something you SHOULD do.

[fufanu180]

Well that is just flat out false. I recently installed them and called ARP Tech Support to ask about this, and they STRONGLY recommended retorquing.


For example, mine were 85 ft-lbs max....so I did this....drove the car easy for 500 miles or so, then retorqued, and it DID require extra turning to get them back to 85 ft-lbs.


It is highly recommended you retorque them. I'm not saying you might not get away with it, but it is something you SHOULD do.

WOW I think I might have sourced the cause of all my headaches!

YOU sir just might be tha man!

[fufanu180]

I'll tear out the cams today and re torque them. I really really hope this seals the deal. No punn intended.

[modulation]

Well that is just flat out false. I recently installed them and called ARP Tech Support to ask about this, and they STRONGLY recommended retorquing.


For example, mine were 85 ft-lbs max....so I did this....drove the car easy for 500 miles or so, then retorqued, and it DID require extra turning to get them back to 85 ft-lbs.


It is highly recommended you retorque them. I'm not saying you might not get away with it, but it is something you SHOULD do.

Of course they say to re-tighten them, what do they have to loose by saying that? Nothing, I'd do the same thing if I worked for ARP.

This isn't some 1960's v8 iron block and head you don't need to retorque them. If re torquing his head-bolts fixes the problem, he didn't torque them properly in the first place. The ARP instructions say nothing about retorquing them, if it was so important don't you think they'd include it their?

[fufanu180]

I have the cams out right now and I'm waiting for the motor to completely cool down before I torque the head bolts. I really hope this solves the problem.

It's funny because I operate a forklift for a living and my fork lift would always over heat. And I've encountered quite a few occasions where my Sr has heated up as well. What is it with me and motors over heating. oh well, a new thermostat and radiator were both installed on the forklift and now it couldn't run better. I really hope the same happens to this sr. Haha.

[jspaeth]

If re torquing his head-bolts fixes the problem, he didn't torque them properly in the first place.


This is true....slightly undertorqued could maybe cause issues at really high hp/load levels, but like you said, if his issues are made better by retorquing, then he did something wrong initially...

[fufanu180]

re torqued the head and it's still bubbling through the coolant system. I've pretty much given up on trying to band aide the situation so I'm just going to take off the head and make sure I do absolutely everything right.

[s14unimog]

I've checked my ARP studs after 500 miles and the re-torquing wasn't necessary, just sayin... 2000 hard miles and 400whp and still no head gasket issues...

If you close up your coolant system, do your coolant lines get really hard? (giggity) If so then you may have breached a coolant jacket. Mine did that after my #4 sucked in a throttle body screw...

[japslapsilvia]

just do the leak down test before u pull the head to be 100% sure u have to pull the head off. it will tell u if there is a problem with the head gasket.

[fufanu180]

I've checked my ARP studs after 500 miles and the re-torquing wasn't necessary, just sayin... 2000 hard miles and 400whp and still no head gasket issues...

If you close up your coolant system, do your coolant lines get really hard? (giggity) If so then you may have breached a coolant jacket. Mine did that after my #4 sucked in a throttle body screw...


Yes they do get hard. haha. anyways....once a coolant jacket has been breached does that mean it's time to rip off the head and do the whole thing all over again? I love working on my car but there are some things that are best off as a one time experience. That won't stop me from doing it again, but if I don't have to do it then I'll be a very happy man.:Ownedd:

[Rabboni]

I would definitely do a leak down test before i took the engine apart, just to be absolutely sure i wasnt doing unnecessary work. its a simple test and should only take 20 minutes max. If you do end up doing it make sure you put the ebrake up, and put it in second when you apply air to the tester. I once forgot the ebrake and as soon as i put air to it, the engine spun, turned the trans and wheels and then smacked me in the knee.