Stopping idle issue

[jeremy242]

I have a ka24et but this issue was simmilar with my n/a sohc as well just not as bad.

I have an issue, when i come to a stop by putting my foot on the brake the revs will drop to inbetween 500 and 600 rpm. At the same time the volts will drop, and at night the lights will dim and it happens everytime when the brakes are applied. During the day when the lights are off the idle is hit or miss whether it will drop or not while braking. However every time that the rpm dips the volts drop as well. When i get to a stop all i have to do is tap the throttle and the rpms go back up to where they are supposed to be and are steady.

I have read the iacv thread about idle and i have read the grounding the tailights treads as well. None of them have any voltage drop on them. Anyone have any thoughts on this. Thanks

[Jayycob]

I had a similar problem with mine, i thought it was electrical problems, and spent a couple hundred on battery replacement and alternator stuff.... In the end it was my MAF sensor that was loose, and just needed some sotter. Not to familiar with voltage drop stuff, but check simple things first before wasting money. Hope i was some help!

[jesse5150]

Check and clean ALL your grounds; battery terminal, ground strap to battery tray, head to firewall etc. You can check resistance between your neg. battery terminal and your grounds with an ohm meter. You can also get your altenator checked at most local auto parts stores, or just hook up a volt meter to it while running it should be putting out about 14volts. Try all that first because its free.

[jeremy242]

I thought that i had it fixed to day with adding a ground from the taillight ground to the negative side of the battery (battery relocated), i was good until right before i get to work and it started acting up again. I went home and sanded all of the grounds off and cleaned the contact surfaces with some sandpaper and it didn't help. I start out with 12.5 on the volt meter and then by the time i get dow the road it is 12 and then when i put my foot on the break it drops to 10.5 and the rpm drop starts. I tightend up my alternator belt to see if that was it but no good. I am going to go and get the alt and the battery check later today. The alternator only has 13k miles on it and the battery is less than two years old.

[yoni_nismo]

Is your BOV recerculated? if not the release of air to the atmosphere makes the car run rich momentary causing it to bog since the maff cant tell the amount of air that was released. Then clean your idle controll valve and check the alternator seems like its not working properly.

[jeremy242]

I am recirculated, i am going to be swapping the iacv tomorrow nad then rebuilding the one i take off. I really hope this helps cause the car runs great it is just coming to a stop that the car sounds like it is dying.

[jeremy242]

alternator tested out good as well as the battery. I pulled the iacv this morning and the spring visible from the inside of the valve was not there, i didn't check it prior to install so i just put the one i had on my n/a motor on it and i am waiting for the rtv to set and cross my fingers.

[jeremy242]

I thought that the other iacv would be the answer but it wasnt the idle was better but the problem still persists. I think it has to do with my fans as it really only begins when the fans are on, the volts dip to 12 and when i let off the gas it dips further. I think i am going to look into doing the quest alt and optima battery to help with this.

[jeremy242]

I was doing some more searching i think i may have figured out the issue, along with the fans. I have an underdrive pulley on the car and wit the fans on and the car at idle i dont think the alternator can keep up when the brakes and lights are on. i am going to swap out the crank pulley for the stock on and belt and see if that does anything, i do like the look of the billet pulley but i cant deal with the idle issue so we will see.